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code99

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Romania
  • Interests
    Gaming, music
  • Occupation
    CNC machine programmer and operator

System

  • CPU
    i7 4970 (soon to be upgraded to ryzen 5000 cpus)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus VII Ranger (soon to be upgraded)
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 (soon to be upgraded)
  • GPU
    ASUS TUF 3080 OC
  • Case
    Be quiet! Pure Base 500DX
  • Storage
    1TB NVME m.2 SSD, 128GB Corsair Force GT ssd, 256GB Samsung EVO ssd, 1 TB 7200 HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850i platinum
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB1, 1440p 144hz IPS
  • Cooling
    Stock Intel cooler ...
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum mechanical keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro x64
  • Phone
    Samsung S8

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  1. After setting up an admin and user password for bios on an Asus Laptop and restarting, i can no longer enter Bios. When i press F2/F10/DEL, it asks for password. I enter it and instead of going to bios it loads windows. I am 100% sure its the correct password, if i enter the wrong one, it says its wrong. Never encountered this before, kinda has me stumped Any ideas ? EDIT: I fixed it somehow ... I entered the boot selection menu by pressing ESC (this after entering the password for bios on boot) and there was an option "Enter Setup" which brought me into bios after which i removed the passwords. I think the issue stems from the fact that both the admin and user passwords were the same.
  2. I've ended up opening it fully, cleaning it (took me forever to do this) and then drying it for about a day. Its working fine now!
  3. Ive been using a Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum keyboard for the past .... idk how many years. I bought it when it first released idk how many years ago. Very good keyboard, no issues until yesterday. I must have spilled something on it or something because it went nuts, started typing on its own, i tried to clean it but no joy. Anyway, im in the market for a new keyboard which is going to be used primarily for gaming and typing. Initially i was looking at a keyboard from Corsair, K100 but damn thing is super expensive, 300 bucks where i live (romania). Im not paying that much for a keyboard and it has macro keys on the left side ... i really hate that. Budget 200 Euros Must be mechanical Must have RGB Must NOT have macro keys on the left side of the keyboard (to the left of TAB, caps lock etc) EDIT: Apparently most keyboards these days have those keys ... i guess i can try and live with them? I prefer if it had multimedia controls and a volume knob or dial or something BUT ultimately can live without such keys. I dont care if its wired or wireless. I also dont care for weight. I wont be moving it from my desk Any recommendation would be lovely. I will look for myself for something but there are so many and idk which is good or not ... EDIT: Hows the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 with Cherry brown switches? Is it any good these days?
  4. Also, if i use the media keys while, say, spotify is minimized, my keyboard stops working. The mouse works fine, everything else works fine. I have to use my mouse to switch applications and then the keyboard works again .. This is super weird. In all my 20+ years of using a PC, i never had this happen before. Im also using this post as a bump
  5. Im using a Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum keyboard. It has various media controls, volume, play/pause, stop, etc. Ever since i started using this keyboard (bunch of years now), media controls worked flawlessly ... until today. I dont know what happened but if the application is minimized (spotify, chrome with youtube tab oppened, etc) the media controls no longer work. They worked before (literally yesterday!), now they dont. (except for volume controls, that still works but that affects windows volume instead of application volume) The controls work when the application is maximized but not when minimized. I cant figure out whats wrong. Anyone experienced anything like this? Suggestions? PS. Im on windows 10
  6. Thats the problem. He said he did it in the past, a bunch of years ago but it was different isp, different routers, etc. He said it could/should work now as well but im not sure and i'd rather not spend more money getting a new router to find out it doesnt actually work I see. Idk how knowledgeable that lady was considering I wasnt able to find ANY such routers on the market here (in in europe, specifically Romania). I guess it cant hurt to call them again and inquire further about this. And i guess only the ISP would know if thats the case with no way for me to know this unless i specifically ask them?
  7. So, a bit of context. I have a gigabit fiber optic connection from my ISP. They provided me with their router/modem (some huawei thing) that has a fiber optic input. At one point i needed to forward a couple of ports but i cant do it myself because the port forwarding menu is locked for users and i dont have the admin login credentials. The only way to port forward is to call my ISP and tell them to do it. When i did that, the lady there told me that for security reasons those particular ports are not allowed to be forwarded. I then asked what my options are if i really need this to happen and she said to replace their router with another one that i must buy myself and then i can port forward those ports. I however was unable to find routers that have fiber optic input (are they not a thing?) Then, a dude i know told me to set the ISP router as bridge (which i can do) and get a new, normal router and connect to it and then i can port forward. My question is ... Is that true? That cant work, surely. Even if i forward a certain port in the new router, doesnt the connection still happen via the original ISP provided router which ports arent forwarded?
  8. I think that would be best. Im still used to do it like in the ol'days where you keep your os sepearate from anything else hehe It would be much easier to just have one big partition where most things are. Now i have to figure out how to do it without deleting most of things on D
  9. I have a 1TB m.2 drive on my main pc. When i first installed windows on this drive created a 100GB Partition for windows and the rest as a separate partition for games and other things that require faster drives. Im at a point where that 100 GB isnt enough anymore and i wanted to extend this partition by taking free space from my second partition only to realize im unable to do so because there is a "recovery partition" worth 500mb in between C partition and D partition. Can i delete that? Will it cause any issues? AFAIK there shouldnt be any issues but i havent done this since windows 7 and i cant recall exactly if its safe or not to do so I tried a bunch of software in hopes i can somehow move the partitions around but so far nothing. Ideas ? Other than formatting the drives and redoing the partitions but that would involve a lot of work (saving all files, reinstalling windows, etc)
  10. I've finally fixed it. I had to update the bios, change the ssd from MBR to GPT and then delete partitions and remake them and finally was able to both install a new windows and boot from it. I still dont know why the SSD wasnt showing as bootable before and why all boot configuration in bios were greyed out. No idea what happened with this pc. Anyway, its fixed now. Ty @leclod for your help thus far
  11. Yes, that was my thought as well but after some more time looking into this i found that there are 3 drives, not 2 as i suspected. 2 harddrives and 1 sata ssd. All drives show up in bios but the ssd drive with windows on it doesnt show in the windows setup page. I plugged in the ssd drive to my own system and it works fine, however it will not show up in the windows instalation page.
  12. A friend of mine brought a pc to me in order to find out why its going to bios on startup. When i power up the pc, the motherboard logo appears and then it goes to bios without me touching anything. All boot functions are greyed out (boot priority, boot override, boot configurations etc). The motherboard is a Gigabiyte B360M HD3 i believe The CPU is a i7 8700 If i go to sata configuration tab, both hardrives show up there with no problems. If i press f12 before the pc enters bios, it gives me the boot menu which has 2 blank and selectable entries. I tried loading system defaults, didnt work. I tried different sata ports, changed sata cables, nothing worked. I also tried to do a startup repair with a win 10 bootable usb drive, no issues were found. What should i do?
  13. I just checked and on the cable itself it says "CAT5E" But the connectors were wired by a friend a few years back ... maybe he wired them wrong?
  14. On my main pc, it says 1000/1000Mbps On the second pc it says 100/100Mbps I also tried the other ports with my main pc, all ports are indeed gigabit So its something with the second pc or the cable. No idea what type of cable it is tho
  15. So long story short, my ISP sent me a new router with wifi 6 and gigabit ports. I've installed and configured it. Everything works fine. I have a 1Gigabit fiber optic connection. On port 1 of the router, im getting the proper gigabit speed. On other ports im not. Im only getting ~100Mbps As far as i know all lan ports on this router should be gigabit. It says on the box and on the manufacturer page. The router in question is a TP Link AX1500 Wi-Fi 6 Router I have 2 pcs connected to it, both pcs have gigabit capable motherboards and proper drivers. 1 pc is connected to lan 1 and has gigabit, the other is connected to lan 2 and doesnt have gigabit. Do i have to do something else to make this work? What could be the issue? Is it the cable?
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