sjain

Thanks for your suggestions. I even turned off the compatbility filter while searching CPUs, but completely missed the 11th gen CPUs, had no idea it was the same price. As for memory, I actually changed to Corsair 2x8GB after accidentally selecting this, but didn't update the URL, but your suggestion is still great cause I didn't realise how the speed made it more expensive for only a tiny jump. As for motherboard, thanks for that, I missed that the ASUS only supports 10th gen, but the ASRock 10th and 11th gen - no brainer pick. Actually theres a reason for this, I wanted a semi-modular AND 80+ Gold PSU, and the minimum was 550W from a decent brand like Corsair, I know it might be overkill, but I really do not like cheaping out over it, and we actually don't have the best power right now, sometimes turning on shower dims a bulb, and we have lots of power cuts compared to rest of UK (8-9 neighbourhood wide in 2 years), sometimes it comes on and off in minutes when it happens, so I just want it to be more than fine there for peace of mind. The 650W was the same price as the 550W of the same corsair PSU model. Is there any negatives in going for the 650W? I heavily considered this route, as well as a Silverstone Milo 10 build VESA mounted to the back of the monitor, but due to the principles listed in my OP (repairabililty, being able to move my 3.5" HDD into it) I went for this approach instead. I prefer more airflow, having plenty of space to chuck in upgrades or replace every individual part if needed, hard drives laying around, etc etc. Even with the Milo 10 and a low profile CPU cooler, mounting a 3.5" HDD meant it sat literally almost against the CPU cooler, covering it entirely over the top, which is terrible for both components.

Budget (including currency): Around £400-600 GBP Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Office work only, zero gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/fBFTcT what do you think of this as a office PC for my parents? the aim is quietness, small footprint, upgradeability/repairability (i can use old drives etc), and lasting many years (10-15, just like the old prebuilt HP pavillion with Core 2 Quad Q6600, that we bought for £1400 back in 2009) I did heavy research and the parts the best that will fit the room best, etc etc. Also a quick question: I bought a tube of Arctic MX4 thermal paste and used it in 2018 on two GPUs. Since then it has sat closed in a cardboard box under my bed. The average room temp is like 24-28C, will it still be usable for a new PC if I build it now? These are literally the cheapest components at this price point on most of amazon, pcpartpicker... and going cheaper (its hard to find cheaper stuff) only shaves off like 50-100 quid for all components, and some only have unbranded cheap crap cheaper, which is stupid because it shaves several years of the device's life CPU: i3 —> i5 is like 20 quid, and i5 has more cores and threads, which is better for office work but means PC should be fast for a few more years. Seems overall this is better than AMD for office work:price ratio, or pretty much the same CPU Cooler: just want something active w/ headroom in there, towards the end of the life the old stock intel needed to be squeaky clean, even a bit of dust makes it perform bad. Seems very quiet, and easy install Mobo: No point cheaping out, this is the cheapest but still very solid, I have great experience with ASUS RAM: 20 quid more than 2x4GB Storage: 2-3 years old SSD & HDD lying around Case: Spent many hours researching it - this looks the best, is easiest to clean, is by far the best use of space and many storage slots which is great, all despite being the cheapest out of all i found. Most others of this form factor arent even available in UK. Also, optical drive - means we can still use the old CDs from the rack. and that case can store 3x 3.5" drive, 3x 2.5" ssd, optical drive, and a normal cpu cooler at same time might also be possible to do with gpu, but i don need one PSU: I have great experience with Corsair, this was the cheapest while not skimping on quality, has great reviews, seems to be quiet. The webcam, speakers, DVD drive obviously nothing to say there.. All thoughts welcome

Hehe, yeah ^w^ I pride on that so much and take care of it, since I got it in November 2015 I've only upgraded storage. Still does 1440p90fps on GTA 5 maxed out, low temps too (GTA5: CPU around 50-60C, GPUs 70-75C and 60-65C, but high usage), I aim to not upgrade for another 5-6 years atleast since i still play mostly the same games. I want it to last forever Cool. That makes sense I guess, I more meant even that too - as long as its replaceable in some way. Some other ones dont let you at all period and void warranties from what ive seen in reviews. I just like it to be repairable incase, so I dont end up with paperweight. Ok, thanks for doing that! I will look into that as well, and all I need is like 3 minutes (worst case incase some big project running) to quit it all and shut it off. How about the amps though? Im guessing the only way is to get a power meter and measure it myself? I guess my system would be above 1 amp then

Hey I'm living in the UK, using this PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/TW2y2V draws around 700W . I am looking to buy a UPS. I am completely noob in electrics and UPS, so not sure what to look out for. I'm looking for something around 100-200 quid price range that also has electricity filtering / voltage regulation stuff as well as user replaceable batteries, repairability. I heard APC is a great brand and even replaces stuff affected free of charge if it fails with the UPS, up to a high amount or something. But the ones on amazon ive seen have non replaceable batteries, and the other, someone said it is rated for 1 amp when his pc goes 1.6 amp. So, what sort of values/electricity stuff should I look out for? Is there a way I can easily guess how much amps my PC outputs? Any reccomendations for a UPS are welcome. So far in the past 5 years I've had this PC there have been 7-8 power cuts, one of which destroyed my SSD filesystem (but chkdsk /f was an absolute god). our electricity is also pretty crap at times, sometimes when the shower is turned on my lightbulb dims. Pretty sure that is awful for my PC, but oh well. Currently its only plugged into a surge protector with no branding on it (we got a premium one from currys and it was belkin or something, but there is nothing on the protector itself so im not sure anymore) which feels pretty stupid for a PC of this cost. Also, I have to "hardware reset" my PC every time i plug it in (plug in cable > wall on, PSU off > hold power button for 40s), or the PSU goes POP with a small flash and magic smell (i looked into this very hard, but it seems my PSU is fine, everyone has said its ok) I apologise if my post seems like im asking too broadly, this is because im too new to electricty and stuff. If there are more detailed required just ask and I will immediately provide! Thanks in advance

So a few days ago I changed the password for my main google account. Everything on web desktop works fine, however on my phone, if I launch a google app, the "Checking info" UI with a loadingthing appears then disappears in a split second, then the app crashes, often taking my whole phone with it. Be it Drive, Google Play, Photos even Settings! When I go into Settings > Accounts > Click on my Google Account, the options Sign-in & security, Personal info & privacy and Account Preferences are MISSING. If I click on Account Sync, it says Sync is currently experiencing problems and will be back shortly This is an OG Google Pixel on Android 8.0.0 (my preference, not willing to update) with the latest security update for that version (November) I tried: Rebooting my phone Updating Google Play Services and other google apps - Google Play store, when launched is blank (when I do the below too) - Switching to another account then trying to update gives a blank page ***Error checking for updates*** Turning off Sync then rebooting Force-stopping all google apps, clearing all their caches then rebooting Clearing DATA for Play Store and trying that Reverting my password to my old one Much much more You may wonder why I have not removed and re-added the account: This is simply not an option. I carried on using my phone for about 4 days, and have: Lots of stuff saved in Google Keep which I cannot sync Many many chrome tabs open which I cannot afford to lose Other data across some google apps which I can't lose Please, I have no idea what the fuck is going on. I have never had an issue like this before. I know everyone will say remove the account and re-add it, so, will removing the account delete all the Google Chrome tabs I have open?? And will it remove the un-synced Google Keep data too? I know it says Yes to this in Settings but still want to know about Chrome tabs no idea how to fix this mess. All help appreciated. Every Google app I launch crashes after a few seconds! It just freezes the app, and sometimes the phone completely 20% of the time.

bump

Thanks btw, if you are willing to waste more time on my persistent soul, now it loses drivers randomly...

I previously posted these two threads; - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1006162-very-weird-driver-issues-with-windows-7/ - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1004634-how-do-i-dual-boot-windows-10-and-7-on-completely-separate-drives-in-2018/ when attempting to dual boot Windows 10 1809 and Windows 7. I then solved all of these issues. However, one issue remains. Currently I use the BIOS to boot of the two "Windows Boot Manager"s of Windows 10 and 7, to boot into whichever OS I want to. I don't use the boot OS selection menu (it doesn't exist or ever appear, which I am fine with). I boot into Windows 7 Professional, and it works flawlessly, fast, no issues, updates installed, latest drivers. I clean installed the GPU drivers with DDU when I made the OS, and again when another issue occurred. It has two very important driver issues though: 1) Sometimes, the mouse, while plugged in, will not move at all. ---- Sometimes, when this specific issue occurs, the keyboard continues to function. ---- Other times, when this specific issue occurs, the keyboard ceases to function. ---- This specific issue is solved by a single reboot (into Windows 7) 2) Sometimes, absolutely no drivers except the display driver load ---- I boot into the desktop, and the network icon is initially the WiFi searching icon, then it changes after a few seconds to an Ethernet icon with a red cross on it ---- Mouse and keyboard input is not possible. I have to force restart the PC. ---- This specific issue is solved by rebooting into safe mode (Windows 7), then rebooting into normal mode (into Windows 7). ---- When I apply the bold red fix above, opening Device Manager in any mode or state (with drivers working or not, safe mode or not) always shows this - https://i.imgur.com/GDcEQXW.png When do these issues occur? - Completely randomly - Literally. Sometimes I will boot into Windows 7 and it works flawlessly 80% of the time, then out of nowhere, issue 1 and 2 occur. - As always, they can be fixed with the respective methods listed under the issues. - During this time I make ABSOLUTELY NO CHANGES TO MY SYSTEM CONFIGURATION ---- This means, no new devices plugged in, no new drives, no new drivers, no changing of USB ports etc. What have I tried? - Clean installing every single driver on Windows 7 and Windows 10 - Windows 10 Fast boot and hibernation is OFF! - Clean installing the windows 7 dual boot - Physically disconnecting the Windows 10 SSD - Checking the Windows 7 install with sfc /scannow and dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth and chkdsk C: /f from the Windows 7 install disk. - Checking the Windows 10 install with the above commands. - Rearranging all USB ports to different ports - Unplugging everything but mouse and keyboard - Making it so that devices which required more "stuff" aren't on the same USB "tower" in the back of the motherboard (if you imagine the motherboard flat and horizontal) - Changing lots of BIOS settings, intel VT-d and intel VT-x, CSM compatibility, etc etc ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IMPORTANT INFORMATION - Full PC Specs = https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/vDxFmq - Both the Windows 7 and 10 drives and OS's are UEFI GPT Devices: - HyperX Cloud II Headset (USB 2.0) - McSaite Wireless Numpad (USB 2.0) - Razer Deathadder Chroma (USB 2.0) - Razer Tournament Edition Non-Backlit (USB 2.0) - Xbox Wired 360 Controller (USB 2.0) - Anker USB 3.0 Hub Drivers: - Realtek High Definition Audio driver - Razer Synapse (tried reinstalling and using a new user account, also tried not using it) - NVIDIA GPU driver - 417.22 - I tried NOT installing any 3D driver stuff, making sure to use DDU in safe mode before making these changes, and rebooting plenty of times - Nothing else, I think All help is widely appreciated. This issue is driving me crazy. Ask anything about info i missed / forgot to include

Update: it didn't stick. Today, out of nowhere, windows failed to load all drivers except the display ones. No mouse, no keyboard, no internet, nothing. It's seemingly random. Any ideas? Edit: fixed simply by booting into safe mode then back out again. But it will happen again because this "fixed" it last time. What is this?

Don't know if it's something bad I've done in life, but it took me a THIRD clean ddu install of my graphics drivers (I unchecked all 3d stuff, and the Nvidia audio driver) and it's ok now it works as intended One thing, I just hope that mouse issue goes away by itself. Thanks for your help and rapid replies regardless. Much appreciated! im gonna mark it solved for now might reopen it if it happens again. Also, I tried booting into my main os on my other SSD (windows 10 1809 fast boot and hibernation fully disabled) and then back into my windows 7 install it's all good Let's hope it sticks, thanks again Edit : It also made os more responsive and fixed some pretty jammy issues with GeForce experience

1. I said, I would state if I had an active overclock, if I was overclocking. Any suggestions then?

Don't have a restore point

All three of these are incorrect 1. I don't overclock, I would have stated that in the post 2. I just checked all of my drives, all ok 3. Read the post

https://youtu.be/d8wz1zwk20Y Basically, when I booted, the above video happens. The login screen and welcome screen did not appear at all, but I could boot in and login and use the os This started happening completely out of the blue. I made no changes to the system at all. Then, on a third reboot, a serious issue happened, where all drivers were missing. Here is what happened: 1. I log in, and the login screen and welcome screen appear as normal 2. When I see the desktop, the notification tray icon has a big red cross, which is what happened when I first made the install and there were no drivers on it. 3. Then, I noticed my keyboard, mouse, wireless numpad, controller, absolutely nothing was working. Nothing 4. Then a "device driver has been installed successfully" thing came up and then the OS COMPLETELY FROZE. I could not do anything and was forced to reboot. 5. I then booted into safe mode with command prompt and ran sfc /scannow but it said everything was ok During this I also ran devmgmt and there were like 50 other devices saying no drivers installed, some of them usb port. 6. I then booted off my install disk, and opened CMD, ran chkdsk C:\ /f but all was ok too 7. I toggles intel vt-d on and off in the os, then it went back to the behaviour shown the video I linked at the very top of this post. 8. Suddenly its fine, but still has the issue in the yt video at the very top of this post. OS works normally otherwise in this state I am still not satisfied. None of this used to happen last week, none of it. I made no changes to the os or my bios or anything. How can I fix this? I've tried clean installing the latest GPU drivers with DDU and nothing has changed. I'm very confused. Please help, quite scared for my files. Some driver is messing up somewhere. All help widely appreciated IMPORTANT EDIT I booted in (with the same issue described at the very top in the yt video) and I see this in device manager https://i.imgur.com/GDcEQXW.png (just an image link of the above for reference) ON TOP OF ALL THIS Seemingly randomly my mouse won't work, it's razer deathadder chroma, razer synapse installed and working, I have to plugin a different mouse

What do you mean? Please elaborate