dtgq

Not in Cyberpunk.

Typical. One passing mention of hard drive actuators and that's all you people tunnel vision on like a swarm of ignorant wasps, no surprise making the ASSumption that it's always HDD, going so far as to suggest windows is installed to a hard drive LMFAO. Completely ignoring the fact that the question was never specific to HDD, ignorant that it applies to SSD all the same. Don't get me started on the FUD about symlinks and network shares, completely laughable, never made any mention of it. Go ahead and delete this, didn't get anything out of you people anyway so nothing of value lost.

I'm sick of Sadya Nutella's windows 11 explorer. Any decently sized folder always opens instantly but then it decides to reset everything and lock your ability to do anything while it re-reads each entry slowly one by one while showing me that stupid green progress bar in the address bar as if it has dementia or as if some trivial metadata is more important than usability when working under a time crunch or as if I ever consented to allowing windows 11 to thrash my hard drive actuator every time I merely want to open a folder. It's basically microsoft dysgenics. Don't recall this ever being a problem in Windows 7.

With a 12500 and Z690-P, my clock while gaming is 4093mhz - but at the desktop, I'm seeing spikes to 4593mhz. Are there any settings (in the vein of Multi-Core Enhancement) that would enable 4593mhz indefinitely? I seem to recall that this could be done with non-K sku's on LGA2011 eg. i7 3820.

I'm finally getting a new PSU to replace my still fully working TX750 because it's kinda loud when gaming full load on a 3080. But I'm seeing that almost everyone including Corsair and Seasonic seems to be cutting corners by claiming they still have "4" PCIE 6+2 pin when really they have 2, each with an unremovable Y-splitter at the end. That's like saying your seatbelt is on, but it's actually going between your back and the seat - it obviously doesn't do anything and may as well not be there at all. Actually I think it's worse since it's deceptive (to evade requirements etc), and is principally wrong. What's the deal? Why did people just accept this? Also while I'm here, what's the situation with RM750x if you want to use two EPS 8-pin connectors for the CPU? There are only 3 connectors on the PSU shared between EPS and PCIE, so if two are used by EPS does that mean you're left with only one PCIE cable (with "two" connectors on the end)? (I would like to google this, except 90% of interesting results are to reddit which doesn't work because of their protest.)

Thank you for the detailed answer, tremendously appreciated

Any good memory alternatives for Canada market? Or I guess how do I look for the "good" DDR5 with Hynix etc? The model you linked has $20 shipping from US, and seems to be only sold here: Team T-CREATE CLASSIC 32GB (16 x 2GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5600 (PC5 44800) Desktop Memory Model CTCCD532G5600HC46DC01 - Newegg.ca Just to confirm, is this the correct motherboard? (Sale ends tonight, not sure if it's just a marketing gimmick...) ASRock B760M PG Riptide LGA 1700 DDR5 Micro ATX Motherboard - Newegg.ca Also, are there any disadvantages to bclk overclocking if I get the non-F variant (since it's only $10-$20 more)? Lastly, the 12400 is $230cad, but 12100 is $150cad which is less per core... is 12400 still the right choice in this case?

Where do I find those prices, especially the motherboard? I looked into doing this a year ago with a 12400 but there was some deal-breaker at the time, I think it was DDR5 prices Found the thread! You actually replied to me there haha, thank you for all the information you share :)

IPC. I still play Crysis lol

Currently have 8600k + 3060, playing in 3440x1440 144hz Want to get a 3080, but the 8600k is just enough to utilize a 3060 if I also want that 144hz. Ideally want a 13600k or 13700k, but it's been at this price for 8 months already, so doesn't make sense to buy new now, bummer. And there's not much in used sales, bummer. Plus I don't like the idea of E-cores, plus sacrificing AVX512 which I don't even use, but still, wtf? So thinking about being cheap and getting 8700k for $100, maybe the HT will do it. Bad idea, buy cheap buy twice? But rumor has it 14th gen is delayed and won't have such an IPC increase as 13th? Or should I get the 3080 first and see how bad it is with the 8600k?

There's too much material in the middle, it's like a humpback whale or something, I hate the feeling that everything is pushed so high up in the air. And there's not enough material under my pinky, it's too narrow so I have to always be pulling in with my pinky and can never relax or else it touches the mouse pad. But what I hate most is that I cannot find a natural position to put my middle/4th/pinky finger! Do all Logitech employees have a missing finger or something? Or do they stick their pinky up in the air? I've recently been using an Aerox 3 with my middle finger on scroll wheel and the shape is more comfortable, but it still needs to be flatter (lower to mouse pad) and wider for thumb/pinky comfort. Regardless, the Aerox 3 has coil buzzing which is a deal-breaker.

Want to spend around $100. Headphone is HD598SE. I listen at 6% to 8% volume on my Z370-A Prime and I'm completely happy with this. I'd like to decouple my audio device so I don't have to pay an extra $100 each time I upgrade my motherboard for the -A series; it'd be great if Asus took the -A hardware and put it in an add-in card. But would prefer something that doesn't need software drivers to be installed. Any suggestions? I've previously owned Asus Xonar DX, Xonar DG, Fiio K3, Fiio E17K. To me, the Xonars sound exactly the same as cheap motherboard onboard, and both the Fiio devices sound WORSE than onboard audio while feeling cheap and tacky. The only audio output device that has ever made a difference in sound quality is this Z370-A Prime, and at this point I really don't believe in anything else (since I can't trust the reviews after trying these devices myself), I just want to decouple this -A hardware from the motherboard.

Hi, I'm looking for a lga1700 mobo that allows non-k bclk overclocking. Debauer listed a couple $600-$800 boards, but hoping to find some more mainstream boards that might allow it.

It can easily get 4.8Ghz with all cores, or add another 0.4v for 5Ghz with 4 cores, but even with 4 cores it gets too hot. It's under a ND-D14 with a single 140mm fan, but it barely feels warm to touch, so I guess the heat is not being conducted efficiently in the first place. I really don't want to have to delid, but that layer of black glue might be the culprit... if I do, I really don't want to use LM, so it'll be relidded with MX4. Will this be worth it, i.e. will it stay under 80°C with all cores at 5Ghz?

iirc hwmonitor calculates wattage implicitly based on voltage... if you have a wattage meter between your psu and wall, you can compare that to the sum of all the power readings in hwmonitor. I'd bet hwmonitor is more than the total.

Does there exist a 3080 with a blower hsf? I need one that will exhaust hot air outside.

8 pin pcie is rated for 150w 3080 is 320w how? edit: wait nvm, there's the pcie slot lmao

Looking for a TV with: No chroma subsampling at 4K 60Hz. No image processing, in order to minimize input lag. No interpolated scaler, i.e. no scaler stretching my 21:9 or 32:9 or 5:4 input trying to be helpful and also causing input lag. I want it to be pixel-to-pixel and have the black bars/letterbox when not 16:9. No PWM backlight (flicker-free) is a big bonus, but can compromise if everything else excels. Don't care about TN/IPS/VA as long as it looks normal/natural. I've seen Acer TN panels with absolutely nothing to complain about, and I've seen coveted Dell IPS panels with nauseatingly over-saturated greens and reds. I also want to emphasize the point of no chroma subsampling because of how deceptively frustrating it has been, between those who use it to pad the spec sheet with a faux 4K 60Hz, and those who think it's no big deal to then mistakenly say it's 4:4:4 (in reviews no less).

For example, these i5 2400 systems: https://imgur.com/KCMx9nz https://imgur.com/5mCgBBz What's that graphics card for? Why do they have it? Does it actually process graphics on it, or is it just some kind of pass-through for the IGP?

The UD3 is smells and looks new, the UP4 is quite used. Bit of a dilemma... newer revision, theoretically better quality black cubes around the CPU, and enough DDR3 on hand to fill up all 8 slots... but OTOH UD3 has better SnR, more black cubes around the CPU (so... better quality power?) Which to choose?

A broken graphics card won't, but a deliberately sabotaged graphics card could. Malicious wiring to step up and reroute power back into the PCIE slot where it shouldn't go, etc. But that's pretty far fetched unless the guy has intent to mess with you.

Before posting this question, I thought to myself not to expect too much from the PC community; it's almost certain that I'll get nothing more than regurgitated funny answers about 32-bit OS, and here it is. There's the kind of funny that makes people laugh, and there's the kind of funny that is just code for something else. I didn't expect anything better. So, why'd I post the thread? Call it rubber ducking. It actually worked and I solved the issue. Side note: Why are Gigabyte's slots so damn tight?

lol screenshot in case that guy deletes it

https://imgur.com/a/8kAYN I have the 4gb ones on the slots left of the CPU socket, and 2gb ones on the right. Task manager sees 20GB, while CPUZ sees 24GB and says it's triple channel

Ncase m1 looks pretty good, especially confident if it's manufactured by Lian-Li. It says it has "limited" ATX PSU support, not sure what that means. Weird that they went with 3 PCI slots, maybe they just had extra space at the bottom from the HDD slots so might as well. The PSU position is strange, but makes sense from a Tetris perspective... My only concern about it is that there would always be an electrical efficiency loss from that extra connector. Gonna look into this some more, thanks for the suggestion.