Elder_Noob

Hi Guys,

   So i got this Samsung PM981 NVME 500gb for like 50 bucks, and I want to migrate my windows 10 from WD Green SSD. Anyone can advice if i will be able to do it using the samsung data migration software? samsung nvme drivers are installed for this PM981 and working properly. I got samsung magician installed but kindof limited in usage, maybe because its exclusively for evo's. I'm not really good at software thing especially OS related stuff, so please help me out. If You can advice me to do migration without doing "install fresh OS again" thing, will be great..

Thanks in advanced! 

12 hours ago, boggen said:

you could adjust them for 4.1 or 4 speaker setup, if you have 5.1 sound card / connections on rear of pc.

 

but plugging the one set of speakers in sub woofer jack. i would undo that. 

my motherboard is msi z370m gaming pro ac, supports 5.1.. but i tried combinations of of connecting the 3.5mm jack at rear but i cant get them to produce sound both at the same time..

could You help me check this photo and maybe teach me which ports should i connect the 3.5mm jacks? I'm literally a noob when it comes to speakers..

TIA. Cheers.

Hi Guys,

   So I have these awesome Old School speakers just sitting on our store room so i tried to use them;

1. Altec Lansing ACS 33 (Speakers + Subwoofer)

2. Altec Lansing ACS 90 (Speakers only, with Subwoofer slot)

   Please see attached photo of simple sketch on how i connected the speakers to each other and connected to my PC. It is all working. Sound output is good. I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to speakers, so I want to ask You guys, did I do anything wrong with those connections? i asked because i might have done something wrong that prevents me from getting the speakers' full potential or maybe i did something wrong that might damage my PC.

   Thanks in advanced. Cheers!

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

Fantastic! Lucky that had a 120MM fan option, it looked old enough that I thought it was the older narrow standard of PC cases that couldn't fit a 120 at all. Bummer about the bad cut, you know what they say...I cut it twice and it's still too short! I suppose you could pop rivet a panel of sheet metal over that gap to cover it more nicely. It turned out way nicer than anything I've ever assembled, you have great attention to detail. I wonder if there's a market for that kind of prebuilt system or even just old cases modded to accept modern hardware/fan sizes?

Yes, lucky it has an option for 120mm, saved me some time and trouble. Thanks for the advice to improve, I definitely follow that advice and will make a cutout of sheet metal and use it as a neat cover once i get a smaller cutting tool. i used a big handheld grinder i borrowed my neighbor for this proj., hence the misalignment  . the foam will just be temporary, but its the best i got atm hahaha..

9 hours ago, Bitter said:

Very nice. What's the purpose of the foam tube? How did you fit a 120MM fan to the rear so nicely? PC's of that age ran 80MM fans...

Did you end up painting it black on the outside in the last photos? If not you need to google up retrobrite and re-whiten that old plastic!

Thanks! the foam tube just fills in the gap between the CD rom rack and the floppy disk rack. I fvcked up cutting wrongly hahaha. and i put the lump of cables in it. The 120mm fans at the rear, there is a hole for 80mm fans (attached when i bought the case) but it also have a ready option for 120mm fan. For the front though, it only has option to install 2x 80mm, so i drilled some holes to fit in 120mm fan. added some more holes so more air can go in. And lastly, no, i only painted black the inside and rear. Thanks for the tip about retrobrite. will definitely look for it. 

12 hours ago, wildthing said:

wow well done!

 

this is one of the best sleepers i've seen

Thanks for the compliments Mate! really made me feel i did it right considering I'm not a pro when it comes to PC's. Cheers!

20 hours ago, slashqpbyte said:

Great build, its a shame when these old cases find there way to the curb. I'm really digging the blue lights on the front.

i really like the blue lights in front. brings back memories on how awesome PC's with LED's during that time. i really find old cases awesome in cooling as well, just need a bit of tweaking..

21 hours ago, seoz said:

I love the attention-to-detail with those red custom-sleeved cables, it all looks plain on the outside and on the inside, it's suddenly an explosion of black and red!

Thanks! my old build is black and red so before i migrated all the components, i decided to black paint the inside of the case (and the back) so when from time to time i will open it, i can still appreciate the modernness of it. and yeah, black and red detail rocks!

Hi Guys,

   I just want to share my recently assembled sleeper PC. My PC case broke and i don't have enough money to buy a new one atm. I saw and i bought a really cheap old case and decided to give it a go. Got inspired by Linus' videos on creating sleeper PC. Please share Your thoughts, criticize if You must so I can improve it. Sorry for misaligned cuttings, i really don't have proper tools  but so far I'm happy of the outcome of what I did.

what's inside:

Hi Guys, thanks for all the advise. I'm considering IBM Model M because i was planning to make a sleeper PC and aesthetically it will be appropriate. And I've seen reviews they say its super satisfying to type on it but as You all say here, its feels heavy and can be a pain in the ass to game on due to its response time and the heaviness to press. Maybe I'll just pass the sleeper build and keep the modern stuff.

Hi All,

   Im going to buy a mechanical keyboard after few years of hardwork. Please help me decide what to buy.. a modern mechanical keyboard or a used good condition holy grail of mechanical keyboards (IBM Model M).. I ask Your expertise and experience as I recently saw one guy posted on a buy and sell app here in my place selling the IBM for a price tag of somewhere same as price of good modern mech keyboard. I'm not a fan of rgb btw. Thanks in advanced. Cheers!

2 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

As far as how bad it is.. if the MBR is faulty, its a problem.

Its not really as bad as other people experienced that they cannot boot because of it, i only experience it when i do restart on my PC. I'm just scared that its like cancer that can create complications which will kill my PC. Maybe i'll do a fresh install over the weekend. i hope it solves the issue.

and thanks by the way, for being patient to reply me even if it became like a one on one consultation. other people seem not interested to reply  

14 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Follow this guide. Looks like its an issue with the MBR, or Master Boot Record.

 

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-3127605/fix-windows-bad-system-config-info-error.html

So its not caused by an unstable overclock right? how serious is this bad system config info? can it damage my PC?

14 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Follow this guide. Looks like its an issue with the MBR, or Master Boot Record.

 

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-3127605/fix-windows-bad-system-config-info-error.html

I tried the first method on the guide, Hold shift + power + restart to boot to safe mode doesn't work, it brings me to a blue screen showing only an option to shut down.

method 2, i tried to boot with a bootable windows installer, trouble shoot, doesn't solve anything. i tried via the cmd but it doesnt recognize the texts/commands written in the guide. or maybe i'm doing something wrong? i'm not really good at IT stuff.. its far from my line of work..

I'm not yet ready for the windows reinstall (final option in the guide) unless You tell me this BSOD really that serious which can cause my PC to break.

I hope someone can help me understand what I'm doing wrong, why it passed stress tests for a reasonable amount of time and gives BSOD when restarting the PC. Doing normal shutdown and switching it on got no issue. I'm scared the BSOD might do some damage on my PC. Took me a year to save money to build it :'(

2 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Whats the BSOD reason? Kinda need that reason before we can honestly help you...

15 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Whats the BSOD reason? Kinda need that reason before we can honestly help you...

it says bad system configuration. ill do a screen shot a bit later..

Hi Guys,

   So I overclocked my i5 8600k to 5.0ghz @ 1.34V. Its not (yet) delided but temps are ok at max mid 70's deg C during max synthetic benchmarks. in real life gaming it never reach 60 deg C at ave room temp of 27 deg C.

   Prime95, passed at 8 hours

   Asus Realbench passed at 8 hours

   Intel XTU Passe at 8 hours

   Long hours of gaming, no crashes or whatsoever, smooth AF

   No any throttling recorded by HWinfo/Intel XTU. 

   My problem is, when i do restart my PC (either hard reset or just restart from windows icon at lower left), it will boot and go to BSOD, collect freaking info and will proceed. When I shut down and power it up, there is no BSOD. What am I missing? what have I done wrong? Please help me..

My Rig (if it helps)

MOBO: MSI Z370m gaming pro AC

CPU: i5 8600k

GPU: MSI gamingX 1080 8GB

PSU: CM V750 Full Modular

RAM: 2x 8GB ddr4

CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i V2

SSD: WD Green 240GB (OS Win10 installed)

NVME: PM981 512GB (installed games, got samsung nvme controller/driver)

HDD: 1 TB Toshiba 7200 rpm (for keeping Pron)

and some noctua fans on all slots (except the rad)

   Thanks in advanced for Your time and advice. 

EDIT: Uploaded the BSOD. Thanks

34 minutes ago, Redicat said:

As since you are working with DC voltage you need High Quality Cables so it needs to be the correct Cauge/Conductive Material to work else it'll catch fire 

 

It didnt catch fire so far, it didnt even turn on

25 minutes ago, AskTJ said:

Could you provide a photo of what cables you want to use?

later when i get home..

19 minutes ago, wONKEyeYEs said:

I have a few PCs with cable extensions.

BitFenix, CableMod, and Phanteks.

The only problem I had was on the 24 pin one of the pins came out.

So check to make sure all your pins are down.

Only way it could really screw up is if a pin came loose and grounded out or

if it was cross wired.

You could try installing the extensions one at a time.

 

So if these scenario happen to the extension cables, will they fry my mobo?

14 minutes ago, Redicat said:

Depends if you mean this (AC)  don't worry most brand you buy are safe 

 

If you mean DC stuff : 

 

my PSU is cooler master v750 (gold).. the one i installed is the extension cables for MOBO and 8-pin for GPU..

19 minutes ago, Rainbow Dash said:

Not all are dangerous, just gotta make that they are made for your psu model, and are a trusty brand. But they can melt and catch fire if they are bad or if they aren't supported for your psu. For example, CableMod makes cables for most of the common psu brands out, Corsair makes their own cables too for their own psus. Just make sure it's right for your model before you buy.

how do I know this? because im pretty sure all the pins and holes are exactly the same and compatible..

14 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

The only thing that will majorly affect your chip is going over 1.45V for daily use.

Just stay below 1.4V at like 4800mhz and you'll be fine

So is it still normal/healthy to go maximum like maybe 1.35V and stay at maximum speed it can give?

22 minutes ago, DarkSmith2 said:

i also think 4.7GHz at 1.3v is reasonable. But personally, i probably wouldnt go above 1.3v non-delided for 24/7 OC just because - thermals.

Is it recommended to just start 5ghz @ 1.3V then if it crash, lower down the speed by 0.1 ghz increment? will it burn my chip?