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SkilledRebuilds

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Everything posted by SkilledRebuilds

  1. Sounds like just normal scene to scene variance, or CPU bound gaming (game engine)
  2. He might mean the sudden 60 to 30 halving you used to get more often... mostly being covered by triple buffering or potentially other methods like VRR.
  3. Task manager and various apps can read it wrong. Just use a lot more apps to check CPU frequency besides task manager and CAM.
  4. I live in Australia's climate. 25-30*c room temps. 360mm AIO I use allcore OC 5Ghz 10C20T, no dynamic boosts or MCE or any of that, not that I mind it... I just use MCE Disabled as well as most power saving features, although its much safer to use those Speedstep idle declocking features than in years past... And. When I mention Voltage it includes Vdroop...aka +Loadline calibration when I speak of voltages.. Im talking LOAD voltage with LLC Vdroop, not idle voltages. You may want to verse yourself with LLC methods.. Best of luck, and by the way resetting to stock should have you at 4.9Ghz allcore with a reasonable voltage and a 56second turbo declock timer to starve off high temps and power usage.. but motherboards/intel tend to push much more than required to cover all bases/locations/boards. Some boards will Override this however... Undervolting is also a good idea, -negative offset voltages, something to research I guess, GL.
  5. Tablets and phones usually share the GUI framework and menu/settings. Some apps (Youtube) will and some apps will not (Dex) trigger enabled or disables features. You won't know usually until you look deeper. And all phones/tablets have diff features to use, just check ur display settings and see if there is any AUTO setting or Powersaving on resolutions.
  6. Whats the aim here,just more Mhz? Tasks won't benefit much from a tiny increase,the baseline IPC is strong enough. Because overall the tiny increase isn't going to do much unless your extremely CPU bound in tasks. Vs the expected GPU bound settings you're likely to be using in games and a few percent or less in allcore workloads no Gaming.
  7. 2 sticks are easier on the Memory controller than 4 sticks, was back then, is now still.
  8. Some phones have power saving features that can drop resolution and refresh rate using default auto settings. I would suss your phones display options and see if any toggle switches mess with your resolution on the fly. Just a guess, not 100% this is it.
  9. GPU's have some protections for furmark loads and it can be unrealistic as the GPU can detect that load type and back off the clockspeeds much more than any game heavy load will... You said BEAM will take your GPU to 83*c already so use that.
  10. If your thermal pads were not completely destroyed and are relatively 100% intact you could keep using them, otherwise it's advised to replace them if they are not in the same state as they shipped. (You should note how thick they are (grab a ruler, 1mm? 1.5mm? 2mm?) as grabbing something too thick will affect it's cooling/assembly. Any thermal paste that is NON-CONDUCTIVE (Metal bad) (they should say so, or you can google "Is....('brand/model') thermal paste conductive? Let us know how it goes and your temps after the fact..
  11. Yes because it just seems like typical wear and tear over the time of the card (factory paste) since it was made. It's not entirely difficult, just make sure to get the WHOLE DIE covered in paste (does not need to be thick, just have 100% coverage) so no hotspots are made. You can spread it out however you want, everyone has their methods, but overall..... it's not THAT serious, just a decent application will do. Some GPU's fro mthe factory have a cooler and "fan curve" to get a certain full load tempreture target (say 75*c) So when the paste gets on a bit, it's not unreasonable to see 80*c-85*c after many a years... A repaste (and de-dust) should get you closer to factory operation temps. It might seem daunting to do, it's not that bad.. really. Just clean the existing paste off and add a tiny bit of new stuff and spread it out. Visualize 1mm layer (or less) you don't want it too thick like 1.5mm+ (using your imagination) Sorry for the novel , but Yes, I'd repaste it.
  12. Up until 83*c the throttle point it's going to turbo boost as much as it can, while every 5*c from idle....it will drop 15Mhz as thats how it's algorithm works. Balancing Power/Temps/Clockspeeds.. A new thermal paste application wouldn't hurt I'm sure. But it's within spec, iE Normal operation.
  13. Intel Turbo boost is dynamic. HOWEVER, some motherboards mess with power limits, TAU time and various things board to board.... especially on pre-12th gen where Intel had lower power limits in spec. (125watts after 56 seconds of 250w usage) But it's normal for clockspeeds to fluctuate unless your doing an allcore workload. It's all within spec, if your temps are good, it's likely just fine, you can keep monitoring it's temps. My board asks me every time I go into the bios do I want to use 125w for Air cooling, 270 watts for Watercooling as a popup, people can easily just click to skip that and not realise they increased their limits. (Again, still within Intel spec)
  14. 5800X3D is known for higher idle temps than it's contemporaries, moreso noticed at idle than anywhere else. It's just how the CPU is designed. Battlefield (aka the Frostbite Engine) also is a heavy CPU title, many cores are in use and can also use AVX instruction sets which usually heat up a CPU moreso than nonAVX instructions. Again, just a CPU heater type game...
  15. "User Error" was put on 99% early users effected as a blame shift.
  16. Are we going to be drilling holes? I'd cut out a few places here and there...
  17. WHAT IS YOUR GOAL with this overclock? You know you won't notice the 3-5% your likely to get right? Everyone's telling you the same thing for a reason. If you want to overclock, you should have bought a different CPU, which depending on the game, will probably still be slower than a game that prefers the 3DV-Cache. You bought the best out of the box solution.. so whats the goal in trying to overclock?
  18. The software I mentioned above in my post does all the partitions as they are.,..during it's 1:1 copy. The copy operation doesn't take too long either, limited by the read speed of your HDD mainly... but still quite a fast operation. And no messing with drive letters or any other stuff, it just works 1:1 when you swap the boot order after the copy process.
  19. Current Generation (Much faster CPU/RAM/SSD/GPU than the Xbox-One/X of previous generation) Xbox Series X (Dynamic or Native 4K) Xbox Series S (Dynamic or Native 1080p/1440p) Previous Generation Xbox One X Xbox One For your backwards compatible question I am not sure on the specifics... sorry.
  20. I would never recommend a straight COPY because hidden files are a REAL thing and you won't get it all with a direct "Windows Copy" I've used this software over 10 times without fail... (altho iI have also read people using this screw it up but I never have) https://download.cnet.com/minitool-partition-wizard-free-edition/3000-2094_4-10962200.html During the install process, ONLY choose the Minitool Partition Manager to be installed. Once open... (Also having your EMPTY target drive ready) You Rightclick the Windows DRIVE (not JUST the partitions, the whole Drive label that has multiple partitions and click COPY) It will bring up a dialog box with "set your target drive" (The SSD) During these dialog box options there will be a tickbox for the SSD alignment. For SSD target drives, it is highly recommended to Align partitions to 1MB option, which can improve disk performance. While I used a older version they will function the same, I've just installed the version I linked, to double check and create the images below. It will reboot and copy the drive pre-WIndows, so any locked files (files in use when windows loads) will be copied before Windows loads and locks them. Once done, I would turn off the PC, remove/disconnect the HDD, tell the Motherboard bios that the SSD "Windows Boot Partition" is now Primary in the list. Save and Exit bios once done, Windows should now boot right away off the SSD as if it was the HDD prior. So.... Copy, Follow Steps inc Reboots, When Done,.... remove HDD and set Bios Boot drive to SSD/Windows Boot Partition,Save & Reboot. This is how I do it for a 1:1 COPY. MiniTool has a guide which I've not read, but here it is if you want to read it- https://www.partitionwizard.com/help/copy-disk.html?from-free-v12120800
  21. You've already tried reseating the AIO and re-thermal pasted to no effect.. Could still be broken/less functional in some way... which would be my guess as your not transferring heat out and crashing at 105*c You don't even have a hot CPU. (TDP).. I'd get an air cooler if it was me,.. for that CPU. Unless the prebuilt has different mounting holes than standard. Not the solution your after (spending money) but it's not like you have to spend the money for another AIO, just a small tower cooler will do the job unless you live in a particular hot country. Suggestion, not advice, as I don't know your financial situation. Good luck with the troubleshooting maybe someone else can help proper.
  22. ^If the back won't close then it's worse than retail, so go low as that's common sense. I don't know your currency or location, whatever you feel 'low' is,.. is probably about right.
  23. 4 dimms has always been harder on the IMC (Memory Controller) than 2 dimms. You may have to use a slower speed bin. eG 5400/5200/5000 as a TEST scenario to see if it is stable there. That's what I would tell you after all those other steps. XMP but then select a lower speed. Or Non-XMP at a LOW LOW speed (just a test) and see if it still BSOD in a instant/short time. Lower speed bins you didn't mention, I'd try a lower speed bin and do the various memtests again.
  24. 0.1% and 1% lows improve greatly with a faster CPU (backed by decent storage and RAM to be fair) But CONTEXT - Depends on the Games played...of course. I went from a 4.8Ghz allcore 4790K 4C8T and a GTX1070 to a RTX2080Ti and it was horrible (Playable, but horrible) in many newer more modern games which had decent multi-threading in game...high usages for a 4C8T and when it spikes....it spikes, ruining smoothness, dropped frames etc... Didn't have this kind of trouble with a GTX1070 because I was usually at GPU bound settings... with my 2080Ti I was CPU bound a lot of the time, even at 1440p. Went to 10850K 10C 20T 5.1Ghz allcore, my % values all skyrocketed, I can feel how much smoother it is against the old system in the same games with the same 2080Ti.
  25. These CPU's are typically hotter on avg than their non3D counterparts... right? I remember all posts from most forums saying X3D chips are hotter than typical Ryzen non3D CPU's... idle/load temps. And as stated above, they are Boosty and with even minimal activity (Installing COD I see on your screen) it's going to up voltage at boost clocks and your temps will reflect that even with minimal usage. It's just a hotter than avg CPU due to the 3D stack on top of the die. Unless I'm mistaken.
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