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MightyBooty :^)

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  • Gender
    Not Telling

System

  • CPU
    I5-2500k / FX 6300
  • Motherboard
    Asus P67 M-Pro / Asus 970 Gaming Aura
  • RAM
    16gb GSkill Ripjaws 2133 / 8gb GSkill Sniper 1866
  • GPU
    R9 285 / HD 7870
  • Case
    Rosewill Challenger / Massive CM Case
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 evo / Mushkin Chronos
  • PSU
    EVGA 500W / CM 650W
  • Display(s)
    Dual HP 1680x1050
  • Cooling
    CM Gemini s524 / CM Hyper 212 Evo
  • Keyboard
    Aula Demon King Mechanical
  • Mouse
    Razor Deathadder
  • Sound
    Generic Soundbar
  • Operating System
    Windows 199999

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  1. Give underclocking the gpu core and memory a shot, if it's not the drivers or display there's a 95% chance your gpu is bricked. Only card I've ever had that's done that was a old dead Geforce MX2. It's more than likely ram or a problem with the ROM cause it looks like it's having a problem reading the BIOS. I would try it with a different PC if you can, to make sure it's not the motherboard however it looks done for unless you know someone that can replace the BIOS ROM. If you can find older gpus looks for a gtx 770,780, 970 (1060 performance) if you can find it cheap. HD7870 (Same performance as the 460 so you had a decent card still),7950,7970, r9 280x, r9 285, r9 380, r9 380x. all fantastic performing cards for 1080p.
  2. Did you try increasing power limit/temp limit? If that does nothing for you, increase voltage in small increments to see if you can get it stable. It seems like the gpu core isn't getting enough voltage/amperage or it's going to shit, also could be the vrm of the card going to shit. These cards have troubles when they get hot as well, which is a given on reference and most aib versions vrms could be overheating and causing the problem. You have a lot of testing you could do :^). P.S. Try not to use Wattman, get MSI Afterburner or whatever asus or evga have out.
  3. You might get it to feel better if you found a sata 2 ssd they're pretty cheap, and the fan you can just buy a pwm fan the same size and replace it. You could try overclocking since you do have a p45 board, i don't know much about foxconn and their quality of boards or your cooling solution though so I would do research if you plan on going that route.
  4. Did you reset cmos after changing your cpu? May not be the case since you updated bios but may as well give it a shot.
  5. Go ahead and set optimized in the bios and ram speed if yours isn't set, and when you get back into windows go to power settings and make sure its set to high performance instead of balanced and see what happens cause it seems like its core parking if your cpu is only getting 40c even on an aio. If all else fails I'd give uninstalling your display drivers and reinstalling, never hurts to try the classic.
  6. What programs are you running in the background while playing games, bloatware on your pc can cause massive performance dips, having too many applications in use can cause stutter on the 4 core 4 thread models of cpus depending on what you're doing. If using a gpu ocing program I'd set that to default, see if your drivers are up to date, and you said you were monitoring temps what exactly were they for the cpu/gpu. Also I'd go into bios and make sure it's set to optimized default and manually input ram clock and timings if you have a good set, or xmp if available.
  7. You more than likely destroyed the drive. You were running more than an amp higher than what the drive calls for, Amperage is a lot more dangerous than over volting for electronics. That's why you see the different heads on wall chargers even though they output 12v the amperage they push is different. Hardware such as disc drives are supposed to run at a certain voltage and amperage without much fluctuation. The psu knows the exact amount of voltage and amps that certain drives need cause there are standards for molex and sata connectors. That wall charger is going to push straight 2A into something that wasn't meant to handle it even with the molex connector on the other end there's nothing regulating the amount of voltage and current entering the drive.. Would not recommend powering drives from anything other than a hotswapper or an actual psu.
  8. The windows registry probably got messed up at some point, it looks like it's trying to show the login screen but gets looped back. Accidental turn off when it was auto updating, messing within the windows system folders, installing incorrect drivers, any of the above can cause a problem like this as well as bsods.
  9. Everything sounds about normal except the large amount of ram usage, unless you run like 40 chrome tabs in the background it shouldn't be that bad, unless Fifa17 actually takes like 10g of ram to run on higher settings maybe?
  10. Run memtest on your sticks on ram, just seeing if they boot up is not an indication that they are working correctly. Windows also might not have liked incorrect drivers and bootied the registry. If you can get to the part where you partition your drive delete system and the partition and create a new partition. P.S. I just had a similar problem of bsod while trying to install windows 10 turns out my USB had a metric asston of bad storage blocks so if you're using a usb make sure it's not a piece of crap like mine lol.
  11. Did you download the chipset drivers and sata drivers if they aren't part of the chipset package? It's never going to be able to handle the newer os as well as a more modern cpu but it shouldn't feel like you're running on a single core pentium. Old boards need to be updated as far as they can go to take advantage of new technologies, it might just be that your sata controller doesn't know how to configure the drive in the most optimal way, this could be chipset or bios related.
  12. Btw if you have trouble with vcore, just get cpu-z or hwinfo and see what vcore the system gives it and go from there.
  13. Just stick a fan over your vrm and see if it helps, if it's not that then try to up vcore if you have the thermal allowance anyway.
  14. Most of the time you can check your bios to see what your psu rails are pushing, try and start there see of everything looks normal, if you are like most of the hardcore pc builders that's not enough. Get a jumper for the psu, most come with one (good ones), and check with a multi-meter. Btw having a game minimized in the background does not show usage like during actual gameplay. Cpu temps and gpu temps will drop immediately after leaving game screen so getting accurate temps while stressed is the next step if your psu is okay.
  15. Your ram could be faulty, HDD could be faulty, or your windows registry could be corrupted.
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