AndrewZScorpion

A typical GPU (well, what used to be typical anyway) uses 2 of the PCI slots on the back of the machine. A 3-slot GPU is taller and will need 3 of those slots. Motherboard connections are all the same, it's just got a thicker cooler.

I would wait for the Super cards to launch and grab one of those. 

Resell and replace
 
Repair fee is likely not worth saving that old gtx 960, luckily you can buy used polaris rx 570/580 4gb and 8gb for peanuts these days, about the same performance as a 1060 once overclocked so cheap upgrade (~40$ for a 4gb and ~50$ for an 8gb depending on country)
 
If youd like a more substantial upgrade or polaris gpus are overpriced for whatever reason look for used 5700(xt), 6600(xt), 1070(ti), 1080(ti), 2060s, 2070s, etc. Youll just have to browse around on your local used market to see what offers best price to performance

Ouch, that definitely seems like dead VRAM. If the GPU does this in the BIOS as well as Windows, unfortunately it's quite dead and there is little you can do other than taking it to a repair shop.

Lacuna A Sci-Fi Noir Adventure is FREE right now on GOG. 92% Very Positive reviews on Steam... Link.

You have until December 28th to claim and keep this freebie forever so grab asap.
 
Released on May 20, 2021 by DigiTales Interactive, this is a pixel graphic detective noir game where you ask questions, collect evidence and put the pieces together until the truth reveals itself... or not. The story branches and ends based on your actions. What I like about this game is that it's not a point and click game and instead you have platformer movement controls.

Thank you all!

Board is fine, id stick with the pg velocita
 
Might even be able to find a used 13600k and save abit of cash with some ppl that upgraded to the 14700k or something
 
Youll want hynix a dies in that case
 
M die is decent but tops out at a mere 7200 ish which will be laughably slow in a few years time similar to how ddr4 hynix m die (mfr) tops out at 3200-3466 and is now considered pretty damn slow
 
 
for guaranteed hynix a die look for a generic 6400c32 bin if you arent buying klevv or hynix branded sticks
 
or if you wanna potentially save abit of cash and without a shadow of a doubt be guaranteed hynix a dies look for hynix hmcg78aebua081n (4800c40 hynix a die), hmcg78agbua081/084n (5600c46 hynix a die), or klevv kd5agua80-56g460d (also 5600c46 hynix a die)
 
Oem hynix sticks part numbers represent what ic is present on the sticks so if you buy aebua/agbua then thats guaranteed hynix a die, klevv is a part of hynix so theyre guaranteed to be hynix
 
If you wanna hit 8000+ now youll problably have to bin your cpu cause apparently 13th gen imcs vary alot and some of them are complete garbage
 
@RONOTHAN## has some experience with ddr5 so for oc tips just ask him, im only good at dissecting part numbers to get guaranteed ram ics for dirt cheap and my experience only goes as far as ddr3 with abit of knowledge regarding ddr4 and some rather basic info on ddr5 cause used hynix a dies dont seem to be very cheap nor widely available atm

ooof, I've personally only had bad experiences with ASrock, MSI on the other hand has been rock solid. I've deployed nearly 25 of them (especially the PRO-A series) personally and for friends and had zero problems and no negative feedback. But YMMV

I'd probably just go for the Force, since I'm a bit more comfortable in MSI's BIOS and the PCIe layout is a bit better, though realistically both are very solid options and you wouldn't really go wrong either way. 
 
If you are going to do memory overclocking, it's not likely to be worth it. Hynix based memory ICs are very consistent, where the biggest difference between them is at a given voltage 2-3 ticks on any of the primary timings. The only reason I might go for something different is because A) The 6000 CL30/32 kits are still possible to be Hynix M die (still really good, but not as good as the A die kits found on 6400+ rated kits) and B) the RGB kits tend to run hotter than the non-RGB kits, and since Hynix memory is pretty temperature sensitive it would overclock worse than the cheaper non-RGB kits. Also, just because a kit is 6000 CL30 doesn't mean that it is guaranteed M die (my 6000 CL30 kit is A die, and rather good A die at that), it's just more likely to be M die than a 6400 rated kit. 
 
If you aren't gonna be overclocking manually, I'd still probably jump to a 6400 CL32 kit, just because they're about the same price and a little faster, but it still doesn't really matter. 

Unfortunately right now the 13900k is the worst CPU for CS2 as the game keeps using the E-cores more instead of the P-cores. 
 
You need to go into BIOS and disable E-cores for CS2 performances to significantly improve

They're all good performers, check out some 7700 XT or 7800 XT reviews to get an idea of how they stack up against each other, and keep in mind the prices in your area. Hardware Unboxed and Gamers Nexus usually make high-quality reviews, and if someone reliable comes out with some AC Mirage or Cities 2 benchmarks when those games release, I would look at those, and I would also look for benchmarks of games you already play frequently, as performance in individual games can be quite different from the overall average.

Pretty much. Certain cards use way more power than they’re rated for for brief periods of time (IIRC, the 3090 would use 1.5 or 2x its rated power draw for something like 50 or 100 ms at a time) which can cause shutdowns if your PSU isn’t over-specced and has good protections. A 300W GPU would put you maxing out at ~500W power draw, which is close enough to 550W that this is something you should be thinking about. I think this was resolved with 40 series looking at a couple graphs, but be careful.
 
Yes, as long as you run DDU/ do a fresh OS install and then install the correct drivers.
 
Display Driver Uninstaller. It wipes your computer of whatever GPU drivers you tell it to. I think there’s an auto mode but I haven't used it in a while so I could be wrong.
 
Only things you really need to worry about are CPU and memory (which can be found on the Asus website). Otherwise, since it's a relatively modern board I wouldn't be worried about it as long as you have the correct port/slot unless it’s ECC ram or something like that (don’t worry about PCIe 3.0 vs 4.0, they’re compatible).
 
You might need to update your BIOS to enable ReBAR, which can boost GPU performance a substantial amount. It’s pretty simple, just make sure you get the right model and don’t unplug or shut down your computer in the middle of it. There are guides that explain it better than I could.

5600 vs 5600X is essentially zero difference, so I wouldn’t be worried about that.
 
As for the GPU, I would wait and see whether or not you’re happy with the performance. If you are, leave it as is, no need to waste money. If not, to avoid needing a PSU upgrade you’ll want to get a GPU that uses ~300W (this is pushing it, especially if the GPU has big power draw spikes) or less, which, for ~2080 Ti performance or better, leaves you looking at a 6700 XT-6800 XT, a 7700 XT/7800 XT, a 3070/3070 Ti, or a 4070/4070 Ti. AMD has tended to be the better deal as of late, but it ultimately depends on your preferences and deals in your area. I also would advise against buying a 3070 (Ti) due to them only having 8 GB of vram, which has already proven to be an issue in multiple games.
 
Also, be sure to either run DDU or do a fresh OS install if you upgrade your GPU, especially if you switch brands. If you don't it can lead to a lot of issues with GPU drivers fighting each other.

To check if everything works the 450w will be enough. The card draws around 220-250w under full load ( more with the spikes of course )   The seasonic PSU is quality and has protection so the system will just shut down and restart if you overload it. No real harm should happen.

Its fine, I too have tried my 3070 with a VS450 for few hours. Installed drivers, played rimworld for a while then shut it down. Power spikes that you should be worried of only happens under heavy load.

I agree with everything Ronothan said, additionally, it may be worth looking into a 13700k or 13600k Intel system if the relative prices in Russia are similar to the US (they both perform slightly better than the 7900 stock, but with PBO enabled, the 7900 pulls just ahead of the 13600k).
 
Edit- Misread parts list, corrected my reply for mistake.

The 13700k is slightly better and the 13600k is slightly worse compared to the 7900. As far as I know there is no reason not to enable PBO, it basically just makes it perform like a 7900X.

Everything in there seems fine. Only things I'd probably be swapping are the SSD, motherboard, PSU, and maybe the cooler, but they're more for pricing reasons than part quality reasons, and since I can't really see pricing since I'm not in Russia, I can't really give an alternative decisions to a lot of these. Boards like the ASRock B650E PG Riptide, Live Mixer, and Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite are some good board options if you want to save money and depending on how pricing works out, swapping the SSD for the P3 non-Plus might be a good idea if you want to save money (you won't notice a difference between Gen 3 and Gen 4), the PSU there are a lot of high end 1000W PSUs out there that are usually cheaper than the RM1000x, and it might be a good idea to go for the EKWB BASIC AIO instead, but those are about the only changes I might make depending on how pricing works out. 

Reminder that your best bet at your budget is still buying used liquidated office PC from 3-5 years ago in your local area (example like Dell Optiplex 7040) and use the rest of the budget to get yourself an SSD boot drive, and a GPU. New at this price would be about between sacrificing upgradability in the future or performance right now. If you still insist in buying mostly new, here you go:
 
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i3-12100F 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($101.99 @ Newegg) 
Motherboard: ASRock B660M Pro RS Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($94.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($37.97 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Mushkin Helix-L 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($48.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Thermaltake Versa H17 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($44.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ Corsair) 
Custom: Used GTX 1070 ($120.00)
Total: $528.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-01 00:11 EST-0500

Only 6th and 7th gen chips will work with that board. 8th and 9th use the same physical socket, but are not compatible with the chipset and thus will not work. Intel has a list of the supported CPUs for H110 chipset: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/90590/intel-h110-chipset/compatible.html.  

RX 6600 most likely is much cheaper than 3060, and performs about the same.
And, I'd suggest R5 3600 instead of 4500, 3600 is faster than 4500. Or if you could swing it, R5 5600.

I would really wait. Why? Because new hardware should come soon: RTX 4000, RX 7000, Ryzen 7000, Intel 13th gen, etc. And not only that but prices are changing a lot. So just wait and ask again when you are going to build 🙂

You will be CPU bound in a lot of titles, and it's probably a decent idea to upgrade to a newer CPU. Your CPU would be a better fit with a 3060 or 3060 Ti instead of a 3070 Ti, especially since you're just gonna be playing at 1080P. If you're just shooting for 1080P 144Hz, a 3060 Ti and the 7700 would be more than enough in most titles. If you want as many FPS as possible to go with a 3070 Ti, you want a better CPU. 
 
It's probably worth saving up and just doing a whole system upgrade, you're gonna wanna upgrade your CPU, motherboard, RAM, GPU, and probably your PSU if you want to go for a 3070 Ti, meaning you'll pretty much just be saving your SSDs and case. 

the 3600 is better than the 10400f.

Probably don’t need such a large ssd, so much ram, and that cooler is eh (good value, just not especially great performance) Really good overall though.