Weak1ings

1 hour ago, Blue4130 said:

If you want density, and $100k is the kind of budget you throw around, then switch to e3l ruler ssd's. 30tb per stick. 1 petabyte in a 1u server. The io is going to be way better than sata ssd's.

Any idea what those ruler drives cost? Seems like a much better idea than this. (not that I was ever actually considering this lol)

22 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

-Moved to Storage Devices-

Oh good, I was worried it would be expensive.

 

As far as covering power goes, you would be very hard-pressed to find a PSU with enough wattage, or a mid tower ATX that supports multiple PSUs. I like the idea, but I can't shake the feeling that you're nearing, if not already at the point where you'd be better off in a rackmounted chassis for this kind of venture.

Definitely, especially power on the correct rails! I imagine someone could ad-hoc a mid tower to fit two psus easily enough, but a server chassis is much better here.

This is well past the practical point of using a server chassis, I think all of this would best fit inside a 3U case that has 9 5.25 inch bays as well, 2U if the user does not need hotswapping but that's makes maintaining 144 drives annoying.

One of the best parts of all of this is the flexibility 5.25 inch bays offer this kind of setup! Getting to turn any case into a readily accessible hot-swappable server could be a pretty powerful feature, making dedicated nas cases like the excellent Jonsbo N2 or N3 less attractive. At the previously mentioned rate, that is 96 TB per 5.25 inch bay using today's drives, imagining what the future holds is really exciting for this.

I've been thinking about building a NAS build and in my research I encountered this product:

ICY DOCK 24 bay 2.5 inch hot swap to 3x 5.25 inch bay ($~800)

This is intriguing; in the same space that I could fit five 3.5" hard drives with some products, this fits 24 2.5" drives, this is half a magnitude higher in density!

Going a step further, any standard mid tower case with 9 5.25 inch bays could fit three of these, this makes the case capable of holding 72 2.5 inch drives! This is utter madness! (example case: Old Antec 900, though I'm sure newer ones exist.)

Using the Samsung 870 QVO 8TB 2.5 inch model would grant roughly 576TB of storage, costing ~$25,200. ($349.99 on amazon) This is a huge amount of money, but it appears to be pretty fair for SSDs.

But it's not done yet!

144 drives might be achievable by using 72 dual m.2 to 2.5 inch adapters like this one: StarTech.com S322M225R M.2 to SATA Adapter - Dual Slot this would allow for a petabyte to be stored.

At present on PcPart Picker, the cheapest m.2 2280 8TB drive costs $759.00 a piece.

This means that you could get a petabyte of storage inside of a mid-tower case for the mere cost of $109,296 in storage.

A similar drive, the MP600 PRO NH states 10.9 Watts on its webpage, so the power budget would be 1,596.6 Watts, plus overhead from all other components. This is probably the hardest to accommodate part.

Overall, the system would require:

• 24 SAS ports
• 2000 Watt PSU (guessing on overhead)
• 144 8TB M.2 drives
• Mid Tower Case
• A budget of $120,000 (rough estimate)

To get:

1,152 TB of storage maximum.

What do you think of this?

It seems like it could work and with the power issue resolved it might be a really interesting video!

Edit:

I realized a much cheaper option exists here, this is not SAS which could make it pretty difficult to troubleshoot cable issues.

Athena Power BP-15827SAC

1 hour ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

^^^

Either would indeed be fine, g2 just has a higher wattage rating

 

 

I may aswell just add some building tips too

I just view these as obselete nowadays, great coolers but theyve been superceeded by cheaper or straight up better coolers like the ak620, fuma 2, peerless assasin 120/frost spirit 140, le grand macho, etc.

 

Ideal ddr5 bin since it has limited futureproofing by oc to 6600-7000, useless if you dont intend to overclock them though so if you dont intend on oc stick to ddr4, and also ignore cas latency as that timing does not do shit for performance (actually ddr5 primaries are basically irrelevant vs the subtimings aside from being a marker as to what ic you may be getting)

 

Rather weak gpu for the rest of the systems specs, i reccomend buying eithe r a used 3080 which goes ~600$ on ebay or used 3090 which goes ~800$ on ebay

 

Gen4 is useless garbage unless you do r/w heavy tasks like high res vid editing, you wont even notice the diff between lowend gen3 to highend gen3 most of the time for non r/w heavy tasks. Though there can be good deals on gen4 ssds such as the wd sn770, crucial p3/5 plus, gammix s70 blade, etc. If you do need the r/w speed of gen4

 

If the case does all you need it to do and has good airflow no real reason to swap, and for the more user friendly case argument i say that youd likely not rebuild your current system more than twice so no point wasting money on something you arent really gonna take advantage of

Just so you know I have already bought all of these things, most at different times, I'll address each comment though:

CPU cooler, Honestly I didn't check others but I chose it because I'm confident that Noctua will support this thing in the future too, I currently use a Cryorig H5 Ultimate and apparently the company is gone? Their support never responded and a lot of products are incorrectly priced for what they are (as if they are not being produced?) For anyone reading this, there are a ton of great options out there indeed! Please check them out.

RAM: Yup, DDR4 is the better value; I chose DDR5 because I intend to keep this build as long as I kept my 4790k, maybe things will use the higher bandwidth someday? It's impossible to know for sure and DDR4 is a solid choice. As far as speed goes, I wanted a slightly faster kit with similar cost to the cheaper kits, but DDR4 is still half the price so it's very difficult to recommend DDR5 generally.

GPU: I've had this since January, and your recommendation is very good for people looking to buy one! For my case I expect to probably upgrade to a RTX 5070 or similar, which obviously doesn't exist yet, this build is a CPU upgrade!

SSD: I wanted to upgrade from a dram-less Intel 660p QLC which very easily bogs down to 140 MBps, (though still has higher bursts) This seemed good but and I really wanted to try "the fast stuff." Your recommendation is good for other, cheaper drives. Just please get one with decent cache!

Case: Good to know, ease of building is probably the only practical reason (and GPU compatibility) to have upgraded from the old Antec 900 this i7 build was originally in, I imagine everyone has a different upgrade cycle so here's mine:

Q6600 -> SSD -> 4790k -> GTX 660 -> EVGA G2 -> GTX 660 SLI -> MasterCase Pro 5 -> GTX 1070 -> 32 GB RAM (since it was ceasing to be sold) -> 660p M.2 drive -> RTX 3070 ti -> the above build.

Obviously over many years, hope you find this interesting!

I've been torn about this for a while and need some outside input, so here's the build I am building:

Background:

Upgrading from a 4790k, 32GB RAM, same GPU, to:

i7 13700k

NH-D15 Chromax

MSI Z690 Pro Motherboard

32 GB 5600 DDR5

RTX 3070 Ti

WD Black SN 850X 2TB

Intel 660p 2 TB (previous primary drive)

Master Case Pro 5 (is there any practical reason to change cases if size is no issue?)

The Question:

These are the power supplies I could use (and already own):

• EVGA G2 850W I've had for 7 years
• EVGA G5 750W I got from a newegg shuffle

Should I use the new Power supply or the old one and why?

I am currently leaning towards using the old one because it should continue to be a solid unit, has 3 years warranty, and the extra wattage is nice. It's possible that under an average load the fan on it won't even have to spin up too, though my new parts are going to push it harder than my previous ones.

Since you already have a 1440p display, I suggest going for a 4k 144Hz monitor, there are plenty of sub 32 inch models out there and you likely will be able to benefit from it using tech like DLSS 2.0 or playing older games.

If that price range is too much, waiting is also a win-win as their prices should go down over time. I just don't think it would be worthwhile to get another 1440p. I have seen some good deals like that Gigabyte OLED 48" for $800, that's rather large for my tastes so there are also models like the Gigabyte M32U which sold for $600 a few months ago, (almost bought it myself) But with newer models coming in the next one or two years you're most likely to benefit from much enhanced backlight dimming tech as units like the M32U have a outrageously bad zone count of "around 16." Still better than edge lit I guess...

Of course there are more expensive models out there which should do great.

After more testing of the cheaper device, I've noticed that while display response time fluctuates, it tends to settle down to the 20 & 25 ms range, which is acceptable if I used the 50Mbps limit. Pretty happy with the device and I'd regard it as having better quality than my Samsung TV, albeit it has no ethernet port at all!

If that is your target, that's a definite yes and you'll find a large improvement from upgrading the CPU & GPU however, It'll be hard to find a better GPU and you're kinda stuck right now.

I have been testing the device I mentioned and here are my thoughts on it:

The  Ematic 4K Ultra HD is actually rather nice and can do steam link at speeds of up to 80-100 Mbit/s,giving me a good image and the rest of the device seems pretty nice but it is my first android tv box so any comparison is futile beyond stating that it is fast and good enough but the last security patch was done in 2019, leading me to suspect it won't be further updated which is unfortunate.

I've noticed that steam link likes to crash on the device in situations where its "not being used" so if you switched to another app or something, expect to have to close and restart the app but once you have started streaming it can sustain good quality for your entire session. So for my case this means full 1080p 60 FPS video with decent input latency but its still a little worse.

Something Weird:

Image above is captured at different points in different games, mainly to show input latency, Case 1 is GTA 5 and Case 2 is Grid 2. Both had very smooth performance without artifacting and GRID tended to go up to between 80 and 100 Mbps, greater than GTA which was smooth until it hit the 95 mbps mark at which point it produced a spike.

I've noticed that as the bitrate goes up, the input latency also increases, even at 60 FPS with minimal frame loss. The image looks good but you lose out on response times.

Is this common to all steam streaming and present on other devices like laptops and Nvidia's shield?

Host PC:

CPU: i7 4790K

RAM: 32GB 1866

GPU: RX 480 8GB using software encoder (You must disable AMD's hardware encoder in steam options or streaming will fail in 98% of all cases.)

SSD: NVME 2TB Intel 660p

I've been looking online for some device that can do these things:

• Stream platform like Disney+, Netflix, Amazon...
• Has USB ports
• Has an Ethernet Jack
• Stream using the Steam Link App at 1080p 60 fps, say 30-70 Mbit/s

The obvious choice is the Nvidia Shield TV 4K but at $200 there has to be something cheaper available, and that's what I'm trying to find! I'm considering buying a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/4K-Ultra-HD-Android-Box/dp/B07NGKQB88/ref=sr_1_1?tag=at88-20&dchild=1&keywords=Ematic Jetstream&qid=1600753482&sr=8-1&geniuslink=true

My biggest concern with this is whether the hardware is enough to run steam link smoothly. There seems to be practically no information or comparison among various devices and hardware schemes aside from the odd Reddit post saying "Nvidia shield works best."

Does anyone know about this subject and how has your experience using Steam link on a dedicated Android TV stick/box been?

Wait, how does a case short your parts?

No standoffs?

3 hours ago, nelsonpong said:

At risk of sounding like a non-solution, I found that when the rubber coating starts to deteriorate like that, there is really no saving it, and I will strip that rubber layer off by rubbing it hard with some paper towels soaked in some strong isopropyl alcohol, leaving it with a glossy plastic. The more gooey it gets, the easier it is to get rid of all the rubber.

 

I should add that it seems the plastic underneath that rubber layer is not the same color as the rest of the mouse, so if you do this, your mouse will look funky.

That's what I feared, how many coats are usually there and in the case of the mouse you used, did any annoying ridges appear as a result of removing the rubber? (I mean mostly along the corners where the rubber & "normally visible" plastic form a seam. I'd love to see a picture of how it worked!

I've been using the MX Ergo for about 3-4 years now (since it launched) and the soft rubber has deformed as per the image, (oils and stuff) Is there something I can do to partially restore and prevent further wear on it? What would you guys recommend?

Here's what I tried:

Rubbing alcohol with a paper towel and gently rubbing the afflicted areas, the result was it got better but only because I wound up removing small bits of the first layer of the rubber, revealing a lower layer.

I recently upgraded from windows 7 to window 10 but I've encountered a pretty annoying issue:

3D applications become limited to 60 FPS if I mirror any of my displays to my 4K TV.

How does Windows 10 handle displays compared to Windows 7 and is there a way to get my monitor to run 3D applications at a unlocked framerate?

I think the main issue is that this cases a framerate cap but I don't have a underlying knowledge on how to remove the cap in this situation. There's gotta be some kind of windows 10 setting that causes this issue.

I've disabled the frame caps and Vsync in Nvidia control panel and Nvidia inspector and can verify that if I set all displays to to either "extend desktop" or disabled, the frame cap disappeared. But when anything is mirrored this 60FPS cap returns.

• My monitors maintain their refresh rates (in windows settings)
• If I disable mirroring the frame cap goes away

Monitor setup:

Where:

1 is a 144Hz 1080p monitor (main)

2 & 3 are 60 Hz 1080p monitors, generic

4 is a 4K 60Hz Smart TV

My setup:

GTX 1070 GPU

i7 4790K 4.0 Ghz

32 GB RAM

4 displays (including 1 TV for couch games)

If there's any more information that I could provide to help let me know, I need suggestions though!

thanks

What is the best articulating monitor arm? I will be using them for a triple monitor setup soon.

Requirements:

• Desk mounted
• Move up and down and at least adjustable side to side
• Tilting

The current one I am looking at is this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBHJK86/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B07BBHJK86&pd_rd_wg=MFa0C&pd_rd_r=27T3MR5V7SVW5ZHHRSR4&pd_rd_w=6qShC&th=1

It seems like a good choice but its review are limited, I'd like to make sure what I do buy is going to be good in the long-run.

Just now, Ryan_Vickers said:

another one that doesn't understand how this works... when will it end?

Never   Google should be able to choose what it wants to have, if it stops too much, Youtube will die.

          Basically, PragerU, a non-profit conservative organization is suing Google for their content being blocked by Youtube in its "Restricted Mode," Citing that it infringes on their freedom of speech from the 1st US amendment.  Their videos are also demonetized though to a extent I do not know.  The demonetization could simply be missed revenue by having it not show up for the lost viewership.  I think this is relevant because Internet censorship is something we should all be extremely interested in and if its happening, should respond to appropriately.

Quote

Washington times excerpt:

 

"

 

The company, founded in 2011 by conservative talk show host Dennis Prager, filed the suit Monday in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California. PragerU claims in the lawsuit YouTube has restricted more than 30 of its videos, labeling some as “inappropriate.” That has prevented the company from collecting ad revenue and blocked viewers who have certain parental settings.

“One need only compare the censored PragerU videos with those that are produced by speakers with different political identities or viewpoints to understand just how arbitrary and discriminatory Google/YouTube’s conduct is,” PragerU said in a lawsuit.

 

Google did not respond to an email request for comment."

...

" The site alleges other videos discussing the same issues by Al Jazeera, Buzzfeed, Bill Maher and the History Channel were not censored, despite some of those talks containing profanity or graphic depictions of mature content. "

Washington times:

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2017/oct/25/prageru-accuses-google-censoring-educational-sites/

The blaze:

http://www.theblaze.com/news/2017/10/25/conservative-prageru-sues-youtube-google-over-video-censorship-somebody-has-to-fight-goliath?utm_content=buffer3240a&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

The hill:

http://thehill.com/policy/technology/356966-prageru-sues-google-youtube-for-censoring-conservative-videos

I imagine you would be able to get a basic computer for about the same price as a Network hub...  It sounds to me that the ability for people to (even if crippled) still work while the main computer is offline would be a good thing to have.

You should consider more than just College in your laptop purchase:

Do you game? 

Is this your only PC?

Can I upgrade my laptop without voiding the warranty?

Can I upgrade its RAM and internal HDD easily?

And lastly, the most important part:  Do you even need a laptop for what you are doing?  I have friends who do not have a laptop and do fine in community colleges.  Laptops are not necessarily a requirement, but it depends on what you do.

I am in Computer Engineering and would die without a laptop that is capable of gaming, (GTX 960M) my friend going to a community college is going into the automotive industry and still shares his desktop PC with his parents!

Edit:

As far as recommendation goes, AVOID any Chromebook.  What you will be using must be able to use Microsoft Word, I've personally had instances in which Google Docs failed to catch a dumb mistake (like a sentence fragment) while Word caught that same one.  That said, its not perfect either.  (one could go for Linux, but Windows is a lot more stress free.)

As a side note for North American Users, Look at Newegg!

Cheapest prices:

GTX 1070: $490

GTX 1080: $510

Pretty crazy, maybe Miners are picking up the 1070s instead of RX Vega now.

I bought my 1070 on launch day for $450   seems weird prices are still so high.

Just now, TheEpicDuck said:

Where do you get them for the same. Interested for myself.

Me too, how are you getting a 1080 for the price of a 1070?

Hands down, Get the 1080.

6 minutes ago, ARikozuM said:

Don't underclock. You don't gain anything from doing so.

You can get cooler temps, say CS:GO uses 20% at 1400Mhz, could it use 80% at 800Mhz while also running cooler.

That said, its pointless to underclock unless you like causing hardship for yourself

Check your temps, best thing you can do here is cut out some holes in both your case, and the desk if possible.

I'll probably feel that way with my i7 4790K & 1070 today, but I found the Q6600 (at stock speeds) to be way too slow, and got pretty toasty on my Zalman at 3.2Ghz.  a GTX 660 could bottleneck the stock chip.

Alchohol or (If you have a very long time to dry,) water.  I'd recommend Isoprobyl-Alchohol as its good vs. sticky stuff.

I don't know much about the euro market, I think that you may want something at least as powerful as the GT 620, if you already have the PC though, try the IGPU.  It may already be sufficient.(if there is one)