pbhenry3

good advice above mostly. All you can really do is 1. repaste with something like gelid gc extreme, which if you do this, mine as well put new thermal pads on as well such as fujipoly ultra extreme. 2. undervolting-perhaps the simplest method to try first. throttlestop works quite well for this and you can set it to start with windows through "task scheduler". the 6700hq should have no problem with -125mV offset. thats about it. unless you want lower temps at the cost of lower performance in which case you could change window power plan settings to utilize less than 100% max cpu performance, which would basically just disable the turbo boost.

As a further update, I have stealth display assemblies here if you are interested in a replacement.

I should still have some available in a month. I usually don't get anything newer than 2015 models in, except for rare occasions. Even If I don't have something listed that you are interested, feel free to message me and I can probably get one ready fairly quickly.

I just sold 2 of the blade 14 2013 for $650 each earlier this week. the 2014 ones usually go for around $700, and 2015 $800-$900 range. Occasionally I will sell the 2015-2016 stealths for around $700. Also the blade pro's as well but nothing newer than around 2014 there. Being I work on these devices daily down to motherboard level, I can confidently offer a warranty with each sale, so something to keep in mind.

I just listed one here about an hour ago. http://www.ebay.com/itm/152679892787?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 they usually sell pretty quick, but I usually list at least 1 a week.

of course. the 970m will run any game. Even most current ones at high settings 1080p. the 4th gen 4720hq compared to the 6th gen 6700hq is very similar performance. any difference is negligible.

if you are set on buying one, I do have some available here but they are the 2015 versions with the 970m. QHD touchscreen 16gb ram, i7 4720hq. I usually sell A grade ones around $900 with a 60 day warranty. I have a modified vbios for this model as well. Let me know if interested.

firstly, the temps in the picture are very cool. Secondly, most of them will hit 90's Celsius when under load. this is normal for these devices. In fact the majority of them thermal throttle brand new from the factory due to the temps. According to all my customers, razer tells them " if it doesnt get so hot that it shuts off, then its normal". Of course, lower temperatures are always better, but even with a good repaste on these they will still hit 90c under load.

Glad everything is working correctly now. If you ever have problems with it I'll be happy to help

That is actually a very cheap quote from razer. I understand this is the stealth but in most cases when dealing with the blade 14 repairs their cost is on average $1,300. We have even seen quotes up to $1,478. Even for overheating we have documented quotes for $1,300 and even for nothing but a broken charge port and no motherboard issue, same quote. So I am very suprised at the low cost they have quoted you. From taking a look over razers service repair log and queue of how they are fixing devices, its noticeable that they don't do any form of repair there and only do whole board replacements for any issue, which explains the high cost, but even then that is still high. If the only issue is a "no charging" issue, that is generally not too difficult to fix. Faults in the charging circuitry are common on these devices and it usually comes down to either the charge controller, current sense resistors, or bad open diodes, or sometimes an ITE issue. Tio further help rule down the exact cause, may I ask what exact charge issue does it have? 1. does it say "plugged in not charging? or plugged in charging, but nothing happens? 2. or is it not even detecting the AC adapter? 3.Or does it say no battery present? I would be happy to help you with this, if you get back to me. Thanks!

usually when not shutting down its bad open resistors and diodes on the motherboard at the power button. however it can be a number of things and If I'm understanding everything right, It sounds more likely that you are looking at an ITE failure or a line between that and the PCH failing. In any case it will require board repair or replacement. Which model of the 2015 do you have, full hd or quad hd touchscreen?

Keyboard is replaceable on the blade 14's. I havent seen the 2017 personally yet myself, but the chroma lighting keyboards were introduced in the early 2016 model of the blade. I would be willing to bet that any keyboard or top assembly for the early 2016, late 2016 or 2017 would be compatible swap for you. Please note that I have no idea about the german layout ones and english layout ones as I've ever only seen the english ones.

This is actually an extremely common problem on the blade 14 2014, not sure of the pro model however. With what you specifically describe, normally if its just on AC with no battery, it still shouldn't shut down. So in this case i would be willing to bet that the issue is with the charge circuitry itself rather than the battery. It is smart and if working properly it will usually limit the power draw of the gpu/cpu and throttle way down into a low performance state rather than completely shut off, even with a bad battery. However if there is a defect in the charge circuitry, it may not due this and will instead just completely shut off. There are many things that can cause this in the charge circuitry and its impossible to say one thing in particular is causing it. Please keep in mind i'm basing these conclusions off of the blade 14 2014, on the assumption that the blade pro 2014 is similar. Let me ask you this to potentially help further narrow it down, 1. does it detect the battery? or say no battery present? If the battery is not detected or says no batt present -the issue is either a bad thermal fuse or bad thermal resistor on the battery pcb itself(ie bad battery) , or a bad clock/data line for battery on the motherboard. 2. does it say plugged in not charging? plugged in charging but not actually charging? If this is the case its more likley to be motherboard issue in charge circuitry. As for keybosrd and trackpad both not working...its most likely a motherboard issue. Trackpad and keyboard both show up as usb devices. the altera max v cpld is the direct matrix of the keyboard and what forwards the trackpad as usb device through the LPC. There may be a problem there. If this is the case(failure of cpld for example) you will have a hard time getting it fixed because you cant just order one, it would need to be programmed. Only option is pulling one off of a same model donor board. It could just be a simple data line issue there as well. of the I'd be willing to bet that if both of them are completely unresponsive that you are looking at motherboard repair. however, if its just some keys, and the trackpad doesnt work, its possible its just bad keyboard and bad trackpad cable.

Sounds like a bad connection on the webcam cable most likely. The webcam on these models is mounted on a small pcb in the display assembly which then runs another cable to the motherboard. The most common culprit is the actual cable itself where it connects to the webcam board. I've seen this on a few occasions and its because the cables razer uses can be poor quality. For one they use tons of small wires at the connector which are then held firmly in place by a glob of adhesive. It's not that its neccesarily bad but that the "quality control" is bad. Sometimes the connection is pretty poor or even breaks altogether even when removing some of these cables. It is technically possible to do a cable only replacement on this model, however, the models with the touchscreen digitzer do require a heatgun to remove and it is a highly difficult replacement on this particular model.

Razer Doesnt use any kind of special thermal paste. It's not even very high quality or anything. I've repaired these things here daily for a year, gelid gc extreme works great.