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markr54632

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Everything posted by markr54632

  1. I guess I should clarify I would like to replace this mouse with something similar that is not made by Razer.
  2. Right now I am using a Razer lancehead wireless mouse. I like the way it feels, I like the size, shape, and weight. The sensor seems nice, although really anything with a high enough dpi that allows me to span my multiple monitors without lifting the mouse would be fine. I cant use it wirelessly because it prompts to install the razer chroma software everytime the dongle is plugged in, so most of the time it gets used wired. I also do not like the proprietary charging cable (not a deal breaker tho). I would prefer something without all the goofy rgb lighting and some decent battery life (this thing gets like 8-12 hours, less if a game is controlling the lighting, definitely a deal breaker). Mouse will be used for some gaming, and alot of productivity work.
  3. The first thing I would do is download the official media creator tool from microsoft and make a fresh bootable thumb drive.
  4. Usually they are specific to cooler. Take the number off of the hub on the old one and search to see if it is available on ebay.
  5. I would completely ignore the sff 7010s. You wont be adding a graphics card very easily. Proprietary connectors make case swaps and power supply upgrades hard. The mini towers are fine, still not upgrading the the power supply or case easily, but you can usually add a lower power graphics card at least. 4gb of ram is not functional for nearly any task if you do get the second option I would just order a cheap 16gb memory kit with it. I think I gave like 20-30 bucks for a used matching set for my old 7010 a couple years ago.
  6. I really dont get it. If you are having trouble with kids breaking the laptops why replace them with a thinner more fragile laptop? Old thinkpads are great. They are durable, most models have the charging port on the laptop as a seperate replaceable part or on a separate replaceable board. Pair this with a breakaway multi tip charger and you should be golden.
  7. No, those will only work for 2.5 inch drives. Look for a desktop 3.5 interface with ide and sata. I think I searched for sata interface with power. It will have a power interface and a usb interface. The one in my toolbox does 12v 2a and 5v 2a https://www.microcenter.com/product/285941/kingwin-ez-connect-usb-to-sata-ide-adapter Like this one, there are cheaper alternatives. I didn't realize how hard these are to find now.
  8. If you buy a desktop usb to sata/ide adapter it comes with a molex/sata power adapter to power the drives. They are like 10-15 bucks. Agptek makes one, I believe the ones in my toolbox are from inland. Come in handy for testing drives, fans, pumps, and accessories. They are so cheap it kind of defeats the purpose of a diy solution. Of course now the fans would run at 12 volt the entire time.
  9. I'm looking for pretty much the same thing. Those dont have any pwm control. They are only speed control through the remote. The kit in that video also has no motherboard rgb control, they do make a kit that hooks into the argb header though. The uphere fan controller ties into the pwm header from the motherboard, but are 3 pin fans, at least you get speed control. The deepcool fans are what I'm kind of stuck on at the moment standard 4 pin pwm headers and daisy chainable rgb headers.
  10. Why not watch one of the many pc build videos that break this down step by step? Much easier than reading a wall of text.
  11. Is there any particular reason you picked an apu if you are going to add discrete graphics anyway?
  12. I kind of assume everyone keeps thermal paste around and I shouldnt. Did you use compressed air or duster to blow out any dust yet?
  13. Since this laptop is so old I would go ahead and try changing the thermal paste first. If that doesnt work and you still suspect the heat pipe has been damaged the heatsink goes for around 5 bucks on ebay and 10 bucks with fan.
  14. Not really. You can get a better used business machine for under 200 and add a used low power gpu for 50 ish.
  15. It is pretty easy to find a keyboard for under 40 with brown, red, or black clone switches. You are right blue clones are the most common, but the others aren't too hard to find.
  16. That's about the budget I have in mine. I got a razer lancehead refurb for 34 and a motospeed gk-89 keyboard around 39. I'm sure they aren't the best in the world, but I wanted wireless and a clicky keyboard and these fit the bill.
  17. Put the warrantee aspect aside for a second, it doesnt make sense to overclock anymore. You have to pay extra for an unlocked processor, you have to pay extra for a supported chipset, when you could have just gotten the higher performance sku in the first place. Overclocking made sense when you could buy a cheap processor like an athlon 2500 for next to nothing and overclock the snot out of it. Or making cheap xeons work in consumer boards. Or when you could unlock cores in the older phenoms. It was free performance. The only cost being a certain loss of reliability and endurance. If I have to pay for that, it still voids my warrantee, and it still comes with the same reliability costs what exactly is gained by modern overclocking? This gets further muddied when you look at binned skus. If a clock speed is guaranteed it isnt "overclocking" anymore.
  18. Except they dont. Fully read the maintainence intervals in an owners manual. The mileage is a suggested metric that doesnt work or apply to vehicles that spend extended time idling. More on topic the unlocked processor skus never made much sense to me as overclocking has always been about pushing parts past their designed limits. If the part is designed to be "overclocked" is it really even overclocking anymore?
  19. The price has risen for other reasons, a big reason being the new mandatory safety features. It would have to rise even more. Using your car for deliveries absolutely is an abusive edge case. You are going to sit in that car in area near potential pickups and idle. In a car not designed for extended periods of idling. Most people are also not going to count the time spent idling into their maintainence schedule. Maintainence will need to be performed according to the time spent running and not mileage in these cases. Most oil life monitors are unable to take idle time into account.
  20. It does and should matter. Commercial use and racing use is much much harder on components, and things die much much faster. If you absorb these abusive edge cases into the warranty either the cost of the product or the cost of the warranty has to be increased to compensate for the losses manafacturers will encounter. By using your consumer grade product commercially, you are operating it outside of it's designed parameters ie extended idling time. A warranty is to protect the consumer against manafacturer defects, not premature failure due to abusive edge cases.
  21. This actually made me laugh. You can discern how fast a car has been driven, average acceleration and deceleration profiles, and much much more by interfacing with the pcm now. You would be stunned at the amount of information that can be pulled. Of course this varies by make/model. Warrantees can have and will continue to be denied based off of recorded info. Commercial use is usually not covered by warrantee unless explicitly stated.
  22. This would be amazing. I miss being able to swap my battery halfway through the day. As it sits I have to charge my phone midday and replace the phone every 6 months due to a battery that no longer holds enough charge or a charging port that no longer accepts cables properly.
  23. Not really much you can do. Loud throttling thin and lights are the norm.
  24. Honestly most of the mods listed on here range from silly to dangerous. They typically overheat because the tim used between the die and ihs has dried up. Replacing this has a very high chance of bricking your console.The fan curve relies on reported temperature, so unless something is wrong with the console or you hardwire the fan it is not going to run cooler. You may get it to stay quiet for a second longer. Honestly just use it until it breaks and have it reballed by a reputable shop when it does. Have them replace the tim under the ihs with something quality and request that they dont glue the heatspreaders back down for easier maintainence in the future.
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