zen1x

@LoGiCalDrm I meant the blocks of metal (in case of B350 Tomahawk lmao) that are on top of them. And that's why I'm concerned about VRM temps in my case with AIO cooler. The exhaust fan actually pulls air through that area and it helps (tested using incense to see the air movement and a thermal probe).

@NoobCase I'll try that then. @NMS Not possible since I've got B350 Tomahawk with it's shitty VRM cooling (there's minimial / close to no airflow coming from the rad and 1 fan alone won't cool everything). In that case I would consider removing the rear 120mm cause it doesn't do much for the VRMs and It's louder than the 140mm up top.

@NoobCase Wouldn't the 140 on top just immediately exhaust the air pumped in by that 120?

So since I've installed my Kraken X62 in S340 Elite on the front intake, I started to see more and more dust inside my case. I've seen Jayz's video about using incense and checking for negative airflow. Turns out I've got a negative pressure! (what a surprise...) My current airflow set up is this: Currently the front dust filter and push config limit my intake while exhaust fans are unobstructed an pump out a lot of air. This creates negative pressure unless I ramp up front intake fans to 95-100% even with exhaust fans on very low RPMs. I was thinking of buying dust filters for top & rear and completely reversing the airflow (without the front dust filter then ofc) - just like this: I can't add 1 or 2 more fans to make push-pull because of the cable management bracket (I've already had to remove it once). Nor I can use a 140mm to 120mm converter on the bottom of the radiator because of my 1060 Strix which is long af. Also I've read that it wouldn't help with my negative pressure as it would just push same air that is being delivered by intake but with more pressure (could help the GPU tho). So then, would reversing the airflow hurt? I'm mostly concerned about GPU, but seeing that it doesn't get much air from intake it shouldn't be hurt. Or maybe you have some other ideas?

@Orangeator I get 90-120 FPS on low-medium, depends on where I am at. But while driving very fast on a motorbike through woods and plants it dips to 50-60. Nvm, this thread went off-topic. They should really step up with optimization... @SquintyG33Rs 30min of Realbench and no restarts / shut offs, PUBG on the other hand... Are voltages on 12V rail ok? Under load they don't change much expect for 12V which can go to ~11.6. I think it's weird that 5V and 3.3V are a little bit higher than should be and 12V is lower.

I stress tested my CPU and it passed, same for GPU and memory. It only happens when I'm playing PUBG, nothing else. What I get in event wiever is Kernel-Power 41 - so it indicates that there was sudden loss of power. My PSU is Corsair RM550x (550W) and my total power draw (according to Outervision's PSU calculator) should be around 400W. My 12V, 5V and 3.3V readings are (using HWMonitor): 12V: 11.904 5V: 5.040V 3.3V: 3.328V. I honestly just give up... It was ok for some time and suddenly it started to do it, then stopped for a while, and then again started... Specs: AMD Ryzen 1600 (OC'd to 3.6Ghz on 1.25V) Asus Strix GTX 1060 (non-OC version) Corsair Vegance LPX 2x8GB 3000MHz (running on 2933 with 1.35V and 15-17-17-35 timings) MSI B350 Tomahawk Corsair RM550x

@Thinkfreely Ok, one more thing. Should I up the SOC voltage? And how much? This is the one thing I don’t understand.

@Thinkfreely Well, I’ll try to reset CMOS, boot, and stress the CPU again and see what happens. But still, I cannot see why that would hard lock the mobo.

@Thinkfreely I did OC it and while it shut off I was stress testing it. But before when the OC would fail the PC would just shut off and I would be able to power it on back without issues. And also the OC was very stable and was working for 7 days.

@Thinkfreely It’s a 80+ plus PSU. Second, 550W rated PSU without a 80+ would supply the needed wattage but would charge more from power outlet. It’s an efficiency standard. I don’t have any other PSUs as it’s my first PC. I updated the BIOS right away (AGESA 1.0.0.6 update) and the PC was working for 7 days no issues.

@Thinkfreely But would it lock the PC to the state it doesn’t even spin the fans? Using calculator I would need 400W on my setup and I have 550W so 150W overhand. This PC was built 7 days ago, it’s brand new.

@TVwazhere Yeah for sure. My GPU has a LED that lights up whenever it has power. And second, the LEDS won’t light up on motherboard and GPU fans won’t be spinning at 100% speed.

Hi! My computer worked for some time now. But suddenly it started to restart itself. Now it’s just locking itself and I cannot boot it. The EZ DEBUG BOOT led lights up and nothing else. Fans aren’t spinning, just nothing. I’ve already reseted the CMOS and it worked for like 2 hours and same happened. Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 (stock cooler, OC 3.6GHz on 1.2250 [it was working fine on this OC before the issues started to happen]) GPU: Asus Strix GTX 1060 (non OC version) MOBO: MSI B350 Tomahawk RAM: Corsair Vegance LPX 2x8GB 3000MHz (running on XMP profile 2 on 2993MHz) PSU: Corsair RM550x

Ok thanks I’ll share pics of the build later when I get it on my desk. Thanks to all of you helping me! LTT has a great community!

Ok last thing. I have to screw in the 3 antennas. But TP-Link also gave me something like this. What is it?