TukangUsapEmenq

For such purpose, all of those would be enough I think. Both Netgear and Linksys are good of what I heard (never tried those though), but I have few TP-Link devices for years and they don't disappoint me yet fortunately despite they're cheap.

They are all fine and will get the job done, though I personally would go for the 4th option (one that isn't listed here) 🙂.
30$ TL-SG108E
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Unmanaged-Shielded-Replacement-TL-SG108E/dp/B00K4DS5KU/
It is still an unmanaged switch but does have some useful features usually found on managed ones, like basic monitoring, VLANs, QoS, link speed setting (10 / 100 / 1000), bandwidth control, etc. via a web interface.
It is easy to setup, just plug and play, but if you want the extra features they are there for you to fiddle with later on.

Im a bloody 15 year old so dont got a job, just doing this for some $ on the side and able to buy some other computer components
 
I buy these really cheap ones just because low risk and im still learning, if it fails doesnt matter ill only lose a $ or 2 at worst but still 300%+ profit margin even if its not that much money

You flashed the latest BIOS? We're in VERY early times right now on a brand new platform, growing pains are the name of the game when jumping on to the bleeding edge. I used the flashback option to flash 1.07 (1.08 is in beta) on my X670E Taichi and it seems the same BIOS versions are available for your board as well.
 
I've had an incredibly smooth experience so far apart from the Sleep issue with EXPO enabled.
 
I've been keeping my eyes open on the following subs to stay up to date with what is/isn't working:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ASRock/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/
https://www.reddit.com/r/AMDHelp/

You won't need such an expensive cooler for a 5600G, I understand the whole hot room temps thing, but you could get good performance for cheaper, 5600G is not that hot.
ID-COOLING SE-224-XT Basic
Thermalright Peerless Assasin 120 SE
 
 

Since fans are 12v, and usb adaptors run at 5v on the fans, bad. The fans will barely be spinning
also there would be a fan sticking off the side
 

They should still work as far as Im concerned, the middle pin is larger than the rest just for more safety iirc, having the earth pin longer. Practically the only real difference is the rating of the cable, which shouldnt matter for monitors that much unless its a power hungry one

Patience is the key, bro. You don't rush to buy such things if it ended you gonna waste that money.... Again. Especially with secondhand items.
 
If you wanna get it cheap, get it from a friend instead that you know how he'd use the thing. I got my 1650 and paid only 50% of the secondhand market price by so.

Nope, evade such thing. Either it's indeed a damaged GPU (which isn't worth it to get anyway if you wanna use it long-term in reliability wise... You really don't want it randomly crash when you're using it), or it's a fake GPU, as driver that won't install is one of the main symptom of a fake GPU.
 
You can simply ask the seller to use GPU-Z and it usually shows if it's a fake GPU or not.

My thoughts and recent experience...
 
Revamped an H61 LGA1155 with an i7-2600 recently. An i7-3770 was preferable, but the factory Lenovo board and H61 chipset were a question mark and only the 2600 was a sure thing. Combined with a $21 SATA M.2 / adapter combo, twice the cores and twice the threads was worth $30, I guess, but the intended basic media recording / playback use was still laggy and shaky with 4GB of DDR3-1333. Worthy RAM upgrades start at $30 up to $330, so over $100, it becomes questionable.
 
By contrast, the interim stand-in for my 5900X (3600X, ASRock B450, DDR4-3600, totaling $325) smoked that 2600 like a halibut on a barbecue with the 1TB M.2, 4TB HDD, 3060ti and RM850x PSU from my 5900X build. But that's 10X the cost, and after the 5900X was reunited with its GPU, PSU and storage, another GPU, PSU and storage cost $800 collectively.
 
For a 1650, there is nothing wrong with even a 1400, 1500X or 1600 Ryzen or equivalent. And I'm sure such a motherboard / CPU / RAM combo can be had quite cheap on eBay or CL, the only risk is whether it's still operable or the previous owner fried it. A good 2018-2019 processor would be a 3600 or 1700. But 1700 / 1700X are quite known for insane OC, becoming a hot ticket -- and at $200-$300, a 5600 starts making more sense in the same price range.
 
However, on the 5000-series argument. Others are entitled to their opinions on the 5000-series and AM4's status. However, more AM4s (likely 3D) are rumored to be in the works, and AMD has said the AM4 is not going anywhere. That said, running PBO with an 8GB OC RTX3060ti and PCie3 storage with DDR4-3200, my 5900X has yet to breach 5% CPU usage. I simply don't see the AM5 being cost-effective or necessary for a good while yet, so while I could see waiting until the 7000s come out for a hypothetical (but unlikely) price drop on the 5000-series, they still are not a bad buy these days if you have the budget. But I wouldn't run a 95W or 105W chip on anything less than a B550.
 
So it really comes down to what you want to spend and what makes more sense. $315 gets you a brand-new 5500, MSI B450, 16GB Patriot Viper DDR4-3000, stock AMD Wraith cooler, and 250GB SN570 PCIe3 M.2, that will smoke any $100-$150 combo you can get on eBay. So the eBay combo makes a little less sense from that standpoint. See for yourself.
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/An0maly1976/saved/fLgjnQ

Under no circumstances ever use it.
Box it up and post it to me free of charge and it will be much safer here.
 
BetteBalterZen has a picture above of the type of box to use.

It puts images on your monitor without needing a dedicated GPU.
 
If it's an Intel processor with integrated graphics, it can do Quick Sync hardware video encoding.

You have a single stick of ram that majorly impacts performance your memory bandwith is half of what you would have with 2 sticks and games nowadays need the bandwith. Get a second stick and that should fix it

Just 2. The 10+18 pin MB on the PSU to 24 pin on the motherboard and the 8 pin CPU on the PSU to 8 pin CPU on the motherboard.
You connect them to the CHA_FAN or SYS_FAN headers on the motherboard.

Literally all fans tolerate 17v, these things are not as fragile as you think they are, although i would def be concerned with server fan overvolting cause im not sure if my 12cm thicc server fan can handle 17v when at 12v it already consumes 1.3a, though i think i have pushed it to 24v at one point on accident cause i think i meant to run 17v but accidentally plugged + to 12v instead of 5v and thats while holding it, scary af since it literally sounds like a very high pitched server fan that youd find on rack servers so i knew the thing was spinning fast, likely 5k+, it and the psu survived, maybe ill push it to 24v again once i got a proper buck boost converter instead of using the psus miniscule -12v rail
 
if im overvolting a fan that consumes less than 0.5a then wouldnt be concerned, heck the led fan that came with my chinese 92mm cooler when the power cables snapped off the 3 pin fan header i just run that thing at 24v, now it sounds similar to my proper 92mm server fan but the leds died xD, i think they were dead beforehand anyways

Probably not much at all. Even dry, thermal paste is fairly thermally conductive. Being that you presumably applied some fresh thermal paste over top of this, it'll mix with the dry stuff and still provide, as you've seen, decent thermals. 

I planned on Coffee Lake/Zen 2/more recent builds tbh, even perhaps an Alder Lake i3, as I know Skylake would be 'enough' for now, but in the next few years it'd be obsolete again anyway. But it depends if I actually need the upgrade or not, as I don't game and use the PC as much anyway.
 
10 GB is the record of my usage with sh--load amount of Chrome tabs, Matlab, Word, Excel, Premiere, Photoshop, and another else, all opened. Usually it won't even touch 8 GB in total either (in fact it's on 5.2 GB right now). I don't know with the case if I run RDR2/GTA 5/more recent games though (it's a problem for future me), and I'll definitely feel it (it'd shutter like dafuq it would be unplayable, right?) when I don't have enough RAM either.
 
Perhaps the clarity that I'm looking for. Tagged as the answer.

Probably, but it's not the lack of RAM really that you're feeling. The CPU is doing work and needs to be essentially fed in order to keep doing that work. The RAM is what is feeding it, so ultimately it can only work as fast as it's given stuff to work on. If your RAM is exhausted, the system must start to page data in and out of RAM using the vastly slower storage of your machine. Even the fastest Gen4 NVMe SSD is order of magnitudes slower than RAM, so this has the net effect of slowing down that feeding process of the CPU. That then obviously affects the ability of the CPU to work as quickly as it can, resulting in things like stutter. It's the CPU that's causing the stutter, and you'll see that regardless of how much RAM you have if it's just not fast enough in general to keep up with the workloads being handed to it. Exhausting your RAM just makes it worse.
 
 

RAM capacity doesn't matter unless you don't have enough and start paging to the filesystem. You seem to be getting close to that if you're using 10GB of your 12GB already, but assuming you're not paging yet, then adding more RAM will have not have an impact on your performance.
 
You should monitor your RAM usage, especially while gaming to verify that you're not exceeding your capacity and not paging. If you aren't, then you're safe to hold out, as adding more will do nothing currently. Now, that doesn't mean you won't start exceeding it next week, since you're getting close, though. So, you can either continue to monitor occasionally or just go ahead and add more to have some safety overhead. Just know that it's likely not going to make a difference in your performance.

The rx570 is way better. What are some other gpus you can find at that price point?

Create a USB Windows 10 install USB using this.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-installation-media-for-windows-99a58364-8c02-206f-aa6f-40c3b507420d
Repair Windows with that. 
Could be a dying drive or many other things. You didn't give us much to go off of here for hardware.

Idea seems solid, I would consider using a much cheaper basic outlet timer since the smart outlet losing wifi when the router goes off could create some problems. It will be much more of a pain to setup, but will probably be more reliable in the long run.

Are you going to be doing a task that requires ecc memory? A nas doesn't require/take advantage of that

You can't use your phone to use it as the main processing power on the laptop, desktop version of Dex doesn't work like that and it still needs Windows (if you're going to use it on Windows). And, obviously, if the laptop hits hard enough on your head for word processing, it would on the Dex too. Best of you can do is actually upgrade your laptop (either completely or change it's HDD to SSD, and increase the RAM).
 
Linus covers NexDock on the past (original one, and the touchscreen one) and I thought this is the most reasonable and good way of your use case instead of going for a new laptop. Check their website: https://nexdock.com