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Oh, then it's actually on FE speed, my bad. Perhaps the problem might be on the cable or the connector itself, try to unplug and replug, yank it, or else. Sometimes, even restarting your device might help. Care to let us know what mobo you use either?

It's because a gigabit per second equals (theoretically) 125 megabyte per second, which I assume you read it from Windows copy speed that's actually in MB/s (megabyte per second). Remember that both are totally different and cannot be mixed up. It's actually the speed you can expect from a gigabit connection.

Clean up your CPU fan (or perhaps, all of the inside of the PC), change your thermal paste, I suggest go for something like Noctua's NT-H1. Any CPU should be idling kind-of below 50 degree, your CPU simply got thermal throttled on that 75-80 range. Even if the CPU is bottlenecking the GPU, it really shouldn't go that low, that 1600 are actually still a decent performer. Even my brother's 1500X with 1050Ti could get 144 fps easy on the highest settings, and both CPU and GPU on 60-ish degree. Should be still good even if the ambient is that hot (and I admit damn that's hot), because no matter how expensive the cooler is, the ambient temp would be always the key on lower temperature. Instead of investing onto a more expensive cooler, I'd suggest to invest in your room temperature control instead. Air conditioner or room exhaust should do the job. Seeing that, that 2 degree difference actually wouldn't matter much anyway.

Despite of their great performance, if your usage is only for such and there's not much overclocking, I rather to go for Cooler Master's Hyper 212 instead. Way cheaper and perhaps the same performance. I don't know, but, it's rather too low for such system to be honest. Dota isn't that demanding and I rather to reduce the graphics to get that 144 fps.

People who don't do much and just simply wanna things simple and minimal instead of having a big box that have unused space inside anyway. I thought this is the most reasonable one reason. HTPC but with decoding/things, remote playing your game, etc. Router/server/NAS. Thought it would be overkill, but why not? Personally, I'd get those secondhand, with way lower spec (Haswell-generation PCs are actually still decent in few cases), to use it as HTPC or server, or give it to my pops who actually do a little CAD using SketchUp (that don't really use much resources and it's iGPU are decent enough).

Either RMA it if it's still on warranty (welp it worries me either, they shouldn't whine like so), or it might be your PSU that got coil whine in few cases of high loads. In this case, what's your CPU and PSU?

In a nutshell, as image in spoiler below. It only happen on ZWCAD (file name works fine on another app, including Outlook and Audacity that I use) and as I use this app daily in work, it really hinders my productivity as I need to move the files from my PC documents folder onto my work network drive instead of have to simply find it on here. Any chance this can be fixed? Oh, also, uninstall-reinstalling won't do much unfortunately. Thanks in advance.

Afaik, it's more on stability (more consistent speed I guess? I feel so) and speed (by sucking everyone's bandwidth with no mercy if there's no QoS on the router, and yes, this caused multiple deaths on someone who plays multiplayer games lol) compared downloading on browser, and sometimes can resume a download after it's accidentally stopped by just giving it a newly generated download link, which, for real, what a life saver especially when you're downloading huge files. I personally using Free Download Manager for years (was using Internet Download Manager but it's a paid app and.... Yeah, you know it.) and it works great with me, although I only use them when I download huge files that touches a gigabyte or above and really don't really matter on smaller files anyway. As for torrent, I use QBittorent, which I really accustomed to download shitload amount of data in years of data hoarding, I could say torrent is the most reliable than others even sometimes with speed stability issues. Heck, you can even switch devices by simply copy your file onto another device and resume from there. Like you download 60% on PC and just copy the file onto your phone to resume the remaining 40%, and yes, this actually works pretty well as I'm a free Wi-Fi guy.

Welp, see if heating the GPU will fix the problem. Seeing how close we are to 40 series card anyway (despite we don't even know if shit that happened on 30 series card can happen again later on), I'd get a lower-end 30 card and go for 40 later on.

I don't really know why, but I decided to actually get the router, specifically the WR840N (funny thing is I bought the WR820N but the one came is WR840N, don't really know why the seller did that but I'm happily receiving it anyway). It fixes all of those problem above, including the disconnection (so yay, no more me frustrated of every minute need to go to my phone settings), but it wasn't a perfect solution as wired would still the best way to do it, as I constantly got 'disconnected' from internet because someone in the boarding house actually ate all of the bandwidth. Welp, I hope this solves any similar issues that I have.

Could go with either of those: Since you're only streaming, perhaps the EAP110 Outdoor would be enough. Except if you're going higher than 300 Mbps, probably get either the EAP225 or the one from Ubiquiti. Well, if you want WIFI 6 don't expect it to not break your bank.

The phone's Redmi Note 8 with xiaomi.eu version of MIUI 12.5 (because I hate ads), and I'm currently living on a boarding house, despite I said on here they got a good enough internet, it simply wasn't for my phone. It keeps disconnecting and refuse to reconnect, despite me tapping to the Wi-Fi for, multiple times, and the signal's actually on full bar. But if I wait for few minutes (usually 5-10 mins), it can reconnect normally again. And it keeps cycling like so. This frustrate me so (shit ton) much since the Wi-Fi is the only way to get decent internet here, and there's barely any cell signal can get through of all those concretes. The Wi-Fi AP that I connect to is an outdoor CPE, Tenda O3, runs on 2.4 GHz channel 6 and this is the one with the full signal, and there's the main Huawei ONT router (router came from the ISP), runs on 2.4 GHz channel 8, but with really spotty signal that I could only get 2 bars on my phone and none on my PC. Edit again, here's a video. And before you ask, no, I couldn't go wired this time unfortunately. I would really want to but it'd be a really complicated process to do so. On said thread here I actually want to get one cheap router to (perhaps) fix all of the problem (but I won't expect it to be perfect, we know how unreliable wireless is), by connecting the router to the Tenda O3 CPE in WISP mode since it's only my phone that keeps disconnecting and the PC's actually being fine (despite the slow upload, from the thread I linked before, still enough for my usage anyway). Should I really have to get the router? I'm thinking to get the (cheapo either) dual-band one so I can get 5 GHz, but I don't know if it would even be necessary, since there's not even any congestion at all around my room, but twice the price somehow. Probably I'll get the TP-Link WR820N (or WR-840N, price difference's only by US$ 2) if it's actually fine to stay on 2.4 GHz and not opting to dual-band. (fyi I got a Redmi TV Soundbar which I sometimes do use it's Bluetooth, but I don't think this is an issue at all since even with the speaker off, the problem still persists, and I usually use it with both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on anyway), But if getting dual-band would be the best idea, I'll get the TP-Link Archer C54 or Mercusys AC10 (Mercusys' TP-Link's subbrand, and price's cheaper). Could go for another brand, but I trust TP-Link enough as I owned few routers (at home) from them and still works fine now. (edit, nvm, both router didn't support WISP mode) Totolink A720R. My phone can do both 2.4 and 5 GHz, but my PC can't because I mistakenly took a non-dual band antenna for the PCI-e Wi-Fi module (that I scavenged from my old laptop, the Wi-Fi module actually can do both band). Thanks in advance.

The PSU should be enough I think. But you definitely need to upgrade that UPS, really don't want to overload the electronics inside it, preferably on 1200 VA one I guess. Afaik, UPS maximum power is usually it's 50-60% of it's rated VA (forgot what's it called), depending on the manufacturer though, sometimes they state it on the specifications, so I strongly advise to not use your old UPS while you're using the GPU.

Well, I don't edit too much (like, only 2-4 hours in one month, hence I said little) and I mostly only limit it on 1080p anyway. Even on my current state I'm still good enough with the editing performance despite.... QSV are actually not usable on this CPU, despite it's there. Wtf Intel. And I'm still happy enough with my SATA SSD tbh. Could sell my 1225 and actually get the 1240 with $14 gap between them. Although I'd agree with you to save up for another entire platform later on. I actually oversighted about this. Thanks for the enlighten that I'll skip Gen 10/11 chips then. To be honest I don't really want to get overkill, so 6C/12T or even that 8C/16T later on perhaps. Currently I'm prioritizing to get a decent GPU (RX 570 for now, but I could go for RX 6500 XT or even RX 6600) first for my current setup (well I'm, improving it slowly), but I guess I'll go either Gen 3/4 Ryzen 3/5 or i3 Alder Lake later on then. ----- Well, unfortunately here PCs are actually some kind of "treasure" here that there's barely any secondhand items around. Even if so, it won't go as cheap as kind-of close to brand new.

In a nutshell, I planned to upgrade my PC later on. Specs right now as below. Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 3.2 GHz 4C/4T CPU ASRock B75M Motherboard Hynix 8 GB + Team Group 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM (will go for total 16 GB later, relax) be quiet! System Power 9 500W PSU As part of the upgrade per-step, I'll get a RX 570 later, after that I'll upgrade the CPU. Use-case is for gaming after work in 1366x768 monitor (will onto 1080p later on), little video editing, 2D/3D CAD works. What made me skeptical is the pick between Xeon E3-1240 v2 or i7-3770 or i3-10105F. If I pick the Xeon E3-1240 v2, or i7-3770 either, well, it's obvious, it's an kind-of ancient processor with some of the recent CPU instruction are not there (AVX2), way slower clock speed, potentially will get some hiccups in gaming, but I saw some gameplay videos and I thought it's already good enough and I didn't see too much bottleneck, and it seems it'll already fulfil my needs. Plus, the fact I won't need to upgrade the others (mobo and RAM) would be a huge plus. If I pick the i3-10105F, price's a bit higher (around $21-ish than the Xeon). But the biggest struggle is that I have to change both RAM and motherboard, and I don't know how really 'far' the performance gap between those. To be honest, I wouldn't mind to take few percent of performance loss between generation as long as I got 60 fps in decent graphics anyway. Well, I guess, enlighten me of this confusion. Thanks in advance.

Get the 500 GB to 1 TB one, with the one of you feel it's enough, agree with @DigitalGoat as it's subjective. I'm using a 480 GB as both boot and game drive and, well, sometimes it's not enough, but it's good to have one for the games you want to load fast. Anything else's on my 1 TB HDD though. Could take the MX500 instead of the WD Green though, I used the M.2 128 GB WD Green (gave it to my bro now) and they actually sucks and slow for a SSD.

It should be, your CPU keeps throttling because of the not good thermal transfer. Agree with @matt4realz, you can actually invest in more decent cooler, heard a lot that 212 is indeed good and your 5600X would be happy to have it. Would be nice to buy some thermal paste (either Noctua's NT-H1 or NT-H2, yet personally using NT-H1 and it works great for me to keep it below 67 (Cooler Master T20 cooler) even it's being stress-tested for half of hour (it's the max I record and I think it's the equilibrium)) either if you f-up the installation process again. Either, you can use it 2 years later on to change your CPU + GPU pastes.

Duly noted then, RX 570 it is then. Thanks for the advice.

Because it needs to stay hard enough to keep the gap between IHS and the cooler itself small. The trick is to actually screw all of them 4 loose first, then tighten them in turn with the X-method, not one at once, and tighten them until they won't turn anymore. And perhaps, change the paste as probably it slip way too much outside the CPU and scrapped on the side of the CPU.

Really depends on another specs (RAM, storage, etc), but I guess that HP would be the winner if I searched about those two.

Check your RAM using MemTest, let it run until it's done, see if you RAMs being faulty or not. The test shouldn't show any kind of error.

Somehow, some of us couldn't treat friends as the same as you are, unfortunately. It's a (really) good gesture, but somehow not all people can do it. Heck, to be honest, I wouldn't do so simply because I'm broke (see my personal PC specs below lol), and somehow money isn't as easy to get from work, and $200 could be a life saver on here, at least on my country. Wouldn't know if op really needs the money or such either.

Well, that makes a lot of sense either, as to confirm if the card's got x4 interface, it'd run on x4 regardless on PCIe version, right, hence the bottleneck? Yet, how about RX 6400?

Yes, here I am, asking again about GPU, essential specs as below. Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 3.2 GHz 4C/4T CPU ASRock B75M Motherboard Hynix 8 GB + Team Group 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM (will go for 16GB either when I'd get the GPU) be quiet! System Power 9 500W PSU My brother's PC got a 1050 Ti, so I expect mine would be similar, or higher performance than his. I game on 1366x768 monitor (would go for 1080p later on, after I upgrade my whole setup ofc). I planned to get either RX 560/RX 570, as it's merely kind of cheap enough for nowadays, and I used some before on a friend's PC. Yes, I know it'd bottleneck a bit, I'll upgrade the PC later to a more recent one as I deem necessary. Yet, I saw both RX 6400 and RX 6500 XT, and I only have to add few bucks to get them, and I get a kind-of more efficient GPU anyway. I saw RX 6400 being a little more powerful than 1050 Ti (despite the price's brand new are near the same), and RX 6500 XT being faster than RX 570. Problem is, they both are running on PCIe 4.0 (it's running on x4 though), while my setup still on PCIe 3.0. I don't know if it would be problematic for me, that's why I ask here if it do. Plus, Linus' video about RX 6500 XT made me... Skeptical, I don't know why, despite if that's actually a decent 'budget' GPU. That 64-bit memory bus on RX 6500 XT vs RX 570 on 256-bit though what concerns me the most. As for the future upgade (which will happen long enough that RTX 6 series would be out anyway), probably I'll get to something like i3-10105F with 16 GB of RAM. So from all of mentioned cards (RX 570, RX 6400, RX 6500 XT), which would be the best for me to pick? I don't tell my budget as I'd save the money first to get the item anyway.

Well aware of that, could do it myself tbh (electrical engineer undergrad here), but it's not my house, and don't have the money either. I would ground my own room later on if I can. It's not about certified electrician or such (well we got enough here I think), but more like house builder here simply got cheap mofo and 'as long as it works'. I'll be honest, you would cringe if you actually visit my country here regarding how safety is simply.... Kind-of disgraced, in houses here. I'm definitely getting grounding on my own house I own though. Man, you're even lucky to have your bathroom grounded. My grandpa place got a water heater on his place, got the RCD on it, pre-cabled. Plugged onto this.