OG_Mega

Could have something to do with the PSU, but I think it's more likely it's a lower binned chip.

That's like the top 0.1% of OC results. EVGA puts their 2.2GHz sample in Kingpin cards already so highly unlikely you can get equally good GPUs from other EVGA 2080tis

Yea so I saw that – my front case JRGB is plugged into the JRAINBOW2 right now, and I can control it from the Mystic Light software. 
 
There's no other cables not plugged in though other than those 2 from my original picture. On that 4th image you're talking about, the female plugs into the motherboard, but that then leaves 2 male 4pins that have nowhere to go?
 
BIG EDIT: EUREKA! Apparently all my setup was correct, but one of the cords was loose.. Figured this out by tightening everything i saw in the back of the case. It was weird though because the plug was already fully tightened.. a little wiggling made it work though. 
 
THANK GOD lol

Looks amazing! Great job!
 
Show it off in this thread if you want.
 
And/or the watercooling gallery:
 

I personally use HWMonitor but you can also use HWiNFo for more detail. You're also going to need the EVGA Precision X1 tool for overclocking your EVGA card; it will give you a graph of your GPU temps as well. All of these software are FREE.

Just shut it down so it won't be pulling electricity when in sleep. The fluid should be fine since it already has the X1 coolant which will prevent any growth.

Updating with final pictures: https://imgur.com/a/cHxc0yQ
 
Came out amazing! 

Wonderful, thanks so much! 
 
Going to bang it all out tonight so I can finally boot this beast and crush nerds in PUBG. It's been too long XD

Sorry, I should have elaborated more. The inlet that I was taking about was for the Magic Cube.
That's fine. It doesn't hurt to be sure that all of the Blitz part 2 is out of the system.
The motherboard guide should tell you what you need to plug in. Of the top of my head, it should be the 24-pin power, EPS (4 or 8 pin) at the top, case I/O in the bottom, USB 3 headers, SATA cables if you have any SATA drives (2.5" SSD or 3.5" HDD), and the fan headers located in multiple parts of the motherboard.
 
For the Corsair Lighting Node Pro, I believe that one needs to be connected to a USB 2 header on the motherboard.

UPDATE: Loop is up and running, did a leak test for ~2 hours this morning, drained it, and then added Mayhems Blitz Part 2 which I'll run for 24 hours, then I'll drain and flush the system consecutively until the loop is clear, then for the final step I'll add the X1 coolant. 
 
Here's how it looked this morning during my first ever leak test
 
Thanks for everything @Dissitesuxba11s, you're a huge asset to the community and I appreciate all your help! 
 
PS: For the drain valve, I used 3x 90' triple rotaries running from the back of the Magic Cube out the front of the case. Then, in front of the case I have a 90' fitting and then finally the drain valve. It worked out extremely well to be fair, but was so burdensome to figure out and run. Luckily it fit flawlessly after I figured out to simply run the 3 rotaries. 

No, I do have that jumper that makes the PSU think it’s connected to the mobo. What I was missing was an adapter to connect the pump directly to the PSU, not the motherboard. The pump I have uses a 3-pin, not a molex 4 pin. 
 
Problem is that if I am to run the pump without the motherboard, there was no way to do that. So I needed to get an adapter to plug the pump to the PSU

Since you won't be putting enough load on the GPU to generate heat you should be fine. Just don't leave it on for too long.
 
I had a feeling that would be the case since the 2080TI FTW3 is such a long card. I don't think there is any other choice since those measurements don't take into account the mounting hardware which will move the reservoir by a few centimeters towards the motherboard. If/when you have the reservoir mount, test fit it with the thick rad to see if it is even possible to mount.
 
Another option is to see if it is possible to have the thick rad up top. This would be dependent on the clearance with the motherboard, cables, and the ports from the front rad.
 
Also, do you have four radiators now?
 
FYI, if you edit a post and mention me, it doesn't give me a notification. I'll just monitor this thread for changes.

If you want RGB you can get this one from EKWB via Amazon.

That is exactly what he did. He used the Bitspower Premium Reservoir Mount at the top of the reservoir and mounted it on the screws to the fans. I think what he did was install one half of the res mount on the top fan and radiator first. Once that is all in the case, he installed the reservoir with the second half of the res mount.
That's a great idea. Performance difference between the Touchaqua and the SF360 is almost negligible, so feel free to return the Touchaqua.
You should be fine. Z390 motherboards are 1151 socket.

Well I'll be damned. I wish I saw that when I had to disassemble my loop when accidentally put it backwards and thought it made a difference. I guess you are okay to put it in whatever port you want.
 
Just so you are aware of how it works, fluid goes into the inlet and flows through a jet plate that accelerates it. It then goes over the fin stack and absorbs the heat coming from the CPU. It then exits out of the outlet.

Ah I see – does it matter which port is used for what? I.e., if they're just hole does how they're laid out really matter? From this thread here, it seems that any temperature fluctuation is minimal?
 
PS: Just emailed Jakob over at watercool.de to ask

Nah, the Touchaqua should do the job. The performance difference between those two are probably negligible since they are both slim rads.

Yeah that should work fine. I have been getting mine off of aliexpress for the last year or two, but that doesn't seem out of line with the "established and trustworthy" prices. Go for it

Unless of course you want full PWM control, which tbh I do prefer for my pumps because they can get loud and I like to have fine control over their speeds

Did you buy the SF360 from Amazon as well?
 
Typically, the thicker the radiator, the better the cooling capacity. The main drawback of thicker radiators is that you would require the fans to spin faster to get air to pass through which also increases noise. Luckily you are getting the ML120s which are a balance of high pressure and high airflow fans. You would still have to run at a faster speed with the thicker rad, but not as much with these fans.
 
Most radiators are made by the same manufacturer so most are probably just rebadged versions of the same rad. What you really want to look at is the fin density, thickness, size, and port locations that will fit your need, and not the brand when choosing radiators.

No.

Slightly to the left more, directly across from the outlet. Yes, I believe you typically would have to provide your own plugs unless they come included.
 
Yup, that's the one. I've done it before to make sure that there are no fluid in the GPU block.
 
It's definitely not the best method, but it is the only method that I can think of that doesn't involve including the drain line inline with anything since that wouldn't be a aesthetically pleasing as the current set up. But yes, that is all you need to make a drain line. I don't remember how many hardline fittings you purchased but if you have an extra one and some spare tubing, you can substitute those for the compression fitting and the soft tubing. I'm trying to not spend anymore money.

i'm not very well read up on your thread, but i will chime in if i have something for you.

mayhems or Cryofuel clear. either will do just fine.

You can normally look at the fan blades and tell. The fan will blow in the direction that the concave side of the fan blades face. If you think about it that makes sense because a fan needs to catch the air and then move it forward.
 
some fans also have an arrow on the casing to tell you which direction they flow.
 
Alternatively, you could power it on and see.
 
and yes. 3 intake blowing in the front and 3 exhaust blowing out the top. You have that correct.
 
depending on exactly where the pipe is you could maybe fit an 80mm fan flowing out but it’s not likely to be hugely important.

Oh that's perfect!. You will only need one LNP since those packs also include an RGB hub that you can connect all 6 fans.
 
RGB Connection:
Motherboard <-- Lighting Node Pro <-- RGB Hub <-- 6x Fans