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Enter Plasma

Member
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Enter Plasma

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1992-04-04

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    https://discord.gg/yTNhGqt
  • Steam
    https://steamcommunity.com/id/enterplasma/
  • Reddit
    https://www.reddit.com/user/enterplasma
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Italy
  • Biography
    Modding Freelancer from Italy
  • Occupation
    Enter Plasma

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i9 9900K
  • Motherboard
    Asrock Z370 Fatal1ty ITX
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 16GB
  • GPU
    KFA2 RTX 2080 OC
  • Case
    Phanteks Shift X
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair SF750
  • Display(s)
    Alienware AW3418DW 34"
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G513
  • Mouse
    Logitech G Pro Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

408 profile views
  1. Bitwit's video is a good explanation. Wire size in sleeved cables actually makes a decent difference, but not really in performance or electrical power: it's more about aesthetics. Thicker wire = thicker looking sleeved cable = more rigid, more malleable Thinner wire = thinner looking cable and/or looser looking sleeve = has a tendency to not be trainable, and go wherever it wants like overcooked spaghetti I personally use 15AWG with big fat MDPC-X sleeve, you can basically give those cables a sharp almost 90° bend and they'll stick to it
  2. UPDATE #3: Some more details, some more pics. Waiting for 2 last parts. So, some more quick things that I did was painting black a couple pieces: GPU PCI-E bracket, AIO bracket, and Light Bars. It's actually my first time trying to paint something, while not professional it turned out decent I think! Got to make more pics while the system was disassembled, and I took the time to finish up the fan cables to make them invisible. PS: both my setup and skills in taking pictures is still not really impressive, so I'm trying to get the hang of doing some manual color correction. If anyone reading knows more than me about this, feel free to share your opinion And finally, back to fully assembled. Goddamn reflections, I'll have to deal with them for the next round of pics. Now just waiting on a couple RGB fans, and new black thumbscrews for the AIO to substitute those dark nickel ones. NEXT: GRAN FINALE
  3. It's noticeable but not incredible. It is specially noticeable on some games that take forever to load - but only some, not everyone. For example my laptop has 500gb NVMe but Battlefront 2 still takes forever to load because of the CPU If money is not an issue, yeah go for it. 1tb nvme is very nice.
  4. I've tried both, they're solid. Known pumps like DDC/D5 are probably more reliable. But here's a hint: for the same price, you can buy 2 chinese pumps. And 2 chinese pumps are more reliable together than one single Laing pump
  5. The difference in numbers in huge, but for gaming and home use it's not that big of a difference. It becomes a huge difference if you make really heavy use of your SSD, but that's not the case for most people. I personally consider it a luxury, get it only if the extra money isn't a big deal for you. If your budget is strict, bigger size > nvme
  6. You can test your drive with an utility called HD Tune until you've seen the SMART readings you won't know if it's bad, might just be Windows being Windows I still fully agree with the 1TB SSD, get it anyways. Get a higher frequency kit of memory. On Amazon.de there's 16GB of Corsair or HyperX kits @3000+ mhz for 80-90-100€ depending on the offer. Your PSU can probably take the upgrades. A better PSU is always nice, but I would keep the priority low. It's worth taking a picture of the label of your PSU, some prebuilts actually have pretty high quality suppliers for those. Depending on your case the D15S might not fit. It's pretty damn huge. Your CPU isn't bottleneck, it's ideal that the GPU is always at 100% during a game, that is the component that you want being taxed the most. For the GPU, unless you get the 1070 Ti used or at an amazing price, you might find better prices for the current offerings: 1660 Ti, 2060, 2070 Also, since you're in Germany: www.geizhals.de. Thank me later
  7. I've used his same materials to build cables in the past, mistakes like that are rare but it can happen sometimes. Contact him and I'm very sure he'll help you out
  8. They're a solid budget offering. Not high end, but great if you don't want to go to an artisan using MDPC-X where you can expect a very high price.
  9. I'd go with a 240 AIO, or a very big air cooler. The View 71 is H U G E and you really want to try to fill it up as much as you can, otherwise it'll look kinda weird. If you can fit in the budget, I've had a good experience with the Asrock Steel Legend B450 board (the mini-ATX version, there's also in standard ATX). I'd also argue that it looks better than the MSI. I've heard meh things about the MSI Armor coolers, but the RX 580 itself is great. I'd recommend maybe going with another cooler style, if you want to stick to MSI they've also got better models. PS: I just saw that you're planning on buying in like 4-5 months. Don't bother looking at prices and components now, everything will be completely different by the time you begin.
  10. The AIO on the GPU is a good idea. It's also the component that benefits most from water. The D15 won't fit in there but there's a lot of other big coolers that will. You could also go double AIO, no shame in that. Could consider a couple Fractal Design Celsius, as they can be daisy chained together. To be completely honest Custom WC is a challenge on its own and I'd recommend you to at least finish your first system and getting more comfortable with tinkering before going there.
  11. That Barrow M.2 block together with the monoblock makes for a surprisingly sweet combo on there
  12. Nice! Will be following I don't see any cable cutouts, do you have any plans for those? I'm still surprised at how popular that mod you're inspired by became. Just to show that simple and elegant will always win
  13. UPDATE #2: Fan cables & LED's in the works Work has been slow but steady. I'm currently doing all the splitter cables for fans, LED's and the sorts. They still have to be sleeved of course! It is a massive work but it's very important - using as less space as possible for cables is top priority for maximizing airflow. Here's where some of the addressable LED's will go, these will light up the cables from the bottom. And this is a rough idea of how they'll turn out. These are not the cables for the project, but I'm thinking about going with this same color scheme (Carbon BTI + Transparency) This is a rough idea of how the back will be cable managed. I also had this chinese RGB controller that I though of using, but it was HUGE So I pried it open... ... And burned the Bluetooth controller trying to desolder those green cable clamps, LOL. WELL, I guess I'll take the opportunity to do something I've been wanting to try for a while. Using a Raspberry! It will arrive around next week so we'll see about that. I also ended up upgrading to a Corsair SF750 Platinum And I was able to fit another fan on the bottom, for a 120 push/pull. Can't have enough fans in here. Another issue is these fan screws that have to be trimmed. I'm using M4's and they either come in sizes 30mm or 35mm. 30mm is too short and won't screw in the rad. 35mm is too long and will hit on the fins before screwing in all the way. These are stainless steel, it's not easy to cut. I'm gonna have to figure out some way. In the pic you can also see some black aluminium columns that I got to cover up the screw thread. I think it looks really cool! And finally, this is how I'm ending up with the fan configuration. It's all negative pressure, and the air will be sucked in from the whole of the back. NEXT: Finished secondary cables, installing the hardware and doing the main cables!
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