c0mplexx*

Here we go: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005319095778.html

Steam supports peer-to-peer updates over the local network, so as long as it's running on your NAS PC you should be able to pull updates from it at LAN speeds.
 
https://help.steampowered.com/en/faqs/view/46BD-6BA8-B012-CE43

Steam gives you the freedom to move files wherever you want (unlike many other game stores), so honestly just about any NAS would do. I backup my Steam library to my NAS, and my son's. 
 
We use TrueNAS. In my case the folder is just mirrored. However in your case you could just setup the folder on the NAS to be library folder and Steam will update those files. It would also show them as installed though. 
 
Steam will let you move the files between the drives in Steam. Or you can move them manually. You can create groups in Steam to separate the games that installed in the NAS if you want, so you know which games are on the NAS. You may find some games run fine from the NAS, particularly if they are less demanding. 

Because site is calculating the average your PC will consume when playing games. This doesn't include random spikes when GPU or CPU needs way more power for a split second. 650W is clearly enough to withstand these powerspikes without your system shutting down.

your specs put you at about 370 watts but what i do not know is does the 6700xt have the same power spikes as the RTX 30 series since those very few micro-seconds of spike could trip OCP

Youll prob be fine, though you can undervolt your gpu to be safe (compensate by overclocking vram)

As I recall NT4 used to be able to do this. Not sure if any Windows versions still can, but it's an inherently terrible idea.
 
The common recommendation I have for this is put Windows on a 256GB NVMe or Sata, then create a RAID 1 with the 3TB spinners. Periodically back up the 256GB boot drive to the 3TB RAID 1 array, and periodically backup the 3TB array to an external 3TB drive. Your butt is covered like a blanket. Or, just run a single 3TB drive as a data drive and be a little more dilligent about backing up to your external nightly.

If we talk about boot-able software RAID 1, then what you are looking for is that RAID 1 that you do from the UEFI (it's just a flag for windows, and the RAID 1 is software base).  

There is lots of backup software that will automate this for your, or use copying software to sync the drives. No need to do it manually. Should be much easier than raid to setup.

The little ones cost less than replacement cables these days especially if they’re sata and small.  No one wants em. so it may not be worth the wait depending on how flush you are.  All you need is something big enough to hold win11.  A 64g one should be more than enough.  Heck, you could run it off a flash drive.

To reinforce the above there is a bromide often used “RAID is not a backup”. Personally I don’t see how a software based system could be used without running the software first.  This probably involves drive partitioning which would mean peculiarities of NTFS would be involved for windows systems. There are at least currently issues with some types of raid on SSDs. It would seem to me that the simple solution for this one is a cheapass small SSD as a boot drive.  Thus sidestepping the problem.

yup most linux distros can do it, but it may take some more configuration
 
 
 
For a basic file server, Id just use the second drive as a backup, and not use raid. Generally better at protecting your data, and will work with one of them as a boot drive.

Not in windows. But you probably don't want a hdd for boot anyways as its too slow. What system are you using? There is often motherboard raid.

My memory is it just means they are a bit more resistant to certain problems.  No weaknesses added that I know of.
 
A lot of people won’t read a post like this without specs though and you don’t mention which drive even.  Might be something there someone may notice if the model was mentioned.  Sounds like there are 2(?) PCs involved here. 

Doesn't matter.

So you can use them like normal HDDs...
For a boot device, I would recommend an SSD. Also HDDs make noise because of their movement.
Just keep that in mind.

You can replace it with a drive from any of the major brands. Western Digital (WD), Seagate, Hitachi, Toshiba, etc... they are all great drives. I have had a mix of both WD and Seagate throughout the years and they both worked great. What you read online is mostly heavily biased as some people just get unlucky. I've seen plenty of hate for both WD and Seagate all around the web, when in reality they both make great drives. Just go and pick a drive that is the best value for you.
 
Pro-tip: some newer cheaper drives are using SMR (Shingled magnetic recording) technology, which results in much slower write speeds. You can check the datasheet of the drive you want to purchase to make sure it says either "CMR", "PMR" or "Conventional recording" if you are going to need decent speeds. Otherwise, if it's for storing media and write speed isn't too important to you then you don't have to worry.

That drive has bad sectors and is therefore probably dying. You should back up your data as soon as possible and replace the drive.
 
The S.M.A.R.T data says that the drive has encountered sectors that it struggled to read, which it then managed to relocate to a special area on the drive that is reserved for situations like this so that those sectors can simply be relocated instead of being lost forever.
 
If the reallocated sector count keeps rising and rising, then it is likely that the drive is on it's way out. If the count stays stable and does not increase, then the drive might still be usable but I would highly recommend replacing it sooner than later.

Any output should work. You can reconfigure almost every port for something else in Realtek control panel.
See:

Depends on how dirty it is and how 'deep' this 'deep clean' is.
 
For example, some people would say cleaning and repasting a graphics card and CPU cooler falls under deep cleaning, which would require - other than the obvious right screwdriver(s), brush(es) and compressed air - also some sort of alcohol solution (or wipes) to clean off the paste and new paste.
An anti-static bracelet is also a generally good idea when working on electronics as it ensured the safety of the components you're handling.

And if you reaaaalllllly want to scrub it use some electronics safe liquid or oil. I have this stuff used for cleaning circuitboards and I can literally just dump that on and it will be fine. Just a mess to clean up and takes a couple hours to evaporate.

If the system is particularly dirty, for example its been in a smokers environment as well as one with pets, then its possible the grime built up wont come of with just compressed air and a vacuum. If any components are that dirty then you can use electronics cleaner or an IPA solution to help shift the dirt.

For your consideration...
 

some form of 99% alcohol, contact cleaner spray, lubricant for any moving parts (drive cage arms or swinging windows), naptha fuel to clean tempered glass parts, I usually keep some black nail polish to fix scratched/chipped paint

You can deep clean the mobo by dunking it in a tub of 99% isopropyl alcohol then wait 24 hours for it to dry.
 
This is great for cleaning the board and solving any problems you have with the board, isopropyl alcohol is really good at cleaning electronics so it doesnt cause damage unless you turn the electronic device on.