johnnyappleseed

Figured out the problem. I had bread boarded power and reset buttons to test outside of the case, rather than having to bridge the pins every time. I continuity tested the power button, but not the reset button. The reset button was turned by 90 degrees, so both the high and low pins of the switch were on the same row, shorting the power button. Somewhat embarrassing it took me this long to figure out. Components were and are fine. TL;DR reset button was effectively being constantly held down

Wouldn't it at least let me to the bios?

Lol okay. Had assumed it was fine as last build (dad's cast off) had no problems. Then assumed recognizable brand name would be decent quality when old PSU was having problems. Limited to phone now, so takes more effort to do research. Thanks for the help. I'll order a decent one and update you at that point.

POS?

Good to know. It has a modular 4+4 cpu in addition to the non-modular cpu power cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JW7M3VX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Testing with that cooler from my old build until I know it can boot. Have a water cooling loop once it does. The PSU, also from my last build, is a Corsair cx500m. Should be plenty for just testing the CPU without GPU. New PSU with enough modular plugs for GPU is in the mail. Smoke indicates too much current, which might mean a short, or that the 4 pin cable wasn't actually optional. I measured resistance between 12v and gnd on the 4 and 8 connector. I got 475ohms which assuming a constant 12 v comes out to 25mA or .3 watts, at least in the powered off state. This is obviously not entirely accurate as there are plenty of non-linear components. Not sure if what other circuits, if any, is powered by these connectors. As in, not sure if there is some switching action which will open up a short to ground when powered on.

Fan runs fine @12v, pulls less than 1/2 amp. The original 8 pin was from the non-modular section of the PSU. I could try by putting the 4+4 from the modular section (which I was using for the optional 4 pin earlier) into 8pin connector, but the smoke monster makes me a bit nervous to do that with an expensive CPU installed. Is it possible to get to the bios without having the CPU installed?

Update: removing the optional 4 pin power connector gave me fan spin (wasn't getting before) for about two seconds before there was smoke coming off of one of the cables. It was right where the CPU fan and 8pin power cables crossed so couldn't figure out which it was. I'm going to test my fan from a bench top psu to see if it still works. I suspect it was the 8 pin cable having trouble By over tightening, I meant I've got a hyper Evo 212 with spring loaded screws which I screwed in all the way. Didn't particularly take much force.

I was using both the 8 and the 4 pin connector

Okay I guess I'll check on warranty. The second bios didn't help

I'm having trouble with my new Aorus z390 motherboard. Currently have it on the cardboard box to work on, with 9700k, air-cooler +fans, ram, HDMI, and power installed, nothing else. When I switch on the power supply, all the decorative LEDs light up for a brief second. Shorting the power button causes the cpu LED to flash twice, which according to the manual means it is not behaving normally, but no fan spin or anything else happens. Can't find any details online about what this LED means. Any thoughts? Is it a MoBo or CPU issue? List of things I may have done wrong at first: Over tighten the cpu Put the wrong 4 pin half of the 4+4 cpu power connector in. I had assumed they'd be keyed not to take the wrong one. Hopefully the keys were designed smart enough that I just under voltaged rather than over voltaged the plug.

You're wanting to put one on each axis?

I've worked with BLDC motors before, but only have a little knowledge about induction motors, so this is just speculation: Not disagreeing with you, just curious what price range/ power rating you are looking at? I've found powerful ESC's to be relatively expensive, at least compared to brushed DC motors when you get into the mid power to high power range. A group I'm a part of bought some older version of these because they were cheap compared to others of comperable specs (link). A BLDC is pretty similar to an induction motor. I imagine some of the extra cost is the AC-DC rectification, though if you are looking at DC source VFC for running off batteries you wouldn't have this. I haven't examined them, but probably some real beefy capacitive filtering is involved for the rectification. Additionally you may have answered your own question about cost: I don't really know enough about induction motors to answer number 2.

Raspberry Pi is fine on a relatively small device. It gives you a full (linux) OS experience, which is close to the android you would probably run for a smart watch. Additionally, the Pi gives you bluetooth by default. The raspberry pi supports Python and any other language you can compile/ interpret on linux. In comparison, an Arduino is usually the place you want to start if you want to get into the device/IoT space. It has a bunch of tutorials and forums, etc to get started with. You have more direct control over pins, timing, and communications, among others. Additionally, essentially any microcontroller, such as an arduino will have an Analog to Digital converter for things like reading temperature, battery level, audio, etc. The basic model does not have bluetooth, but there might be newer models which do? The Arduino board is programmed in the Arduino language, which is more or less C++ with some libraries, though most users write it more like C. If you are comfortable with Arduino, and are interested in wireless, move on to the ESP bluetooth/wifi micros, which there are multiple development boards/ breakout boards for. Even though the Arduino and Raspberry Pi are hobbyist level, they are good representations of the industry areas of, respectively, pure Embedded computing, or the gray area of embedded linux/ higher software developement.

To run at max power, 50 watts for 12 hrs is 50 * 12 = 600 watt hours. With a 12V battery, 600 wh / 12V = 50 amp hours. With a 24V battery, thats 600 wh / 24V = 25 amp hours. Those are some pretty large numbers, would get expensive fast. Random google search found this store https://www.batteryspace.com/12-8v-lifepo4-battery-packs-from-19.8ah-to-200ah.aspx , not sure if these are the best price you could get. Probably better to assume you wouldn't be using it a max power all the time if you want it to be reasonably priced. Maybe assume 1/2 power for three to six hours? Could start to look into constructing your own battery pack from 18650 cells. I would consider purchasing a nicer amp, since you will probably end up spending a fair amount on batteries. I believe the number @HanZie82 came to was the rated amps your pack should be capable of. 50 W / 12 V = 4 and a bit amps. 50 W / 24 V = 2 and a bit amps. There's a difference between amps and amp hours. Amps is the amount of current flowing thru something, think flow rate of water. Amp hours is the capacity, so think how much a tank of water would be filled up in a period of time with a certain current. https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-11/battery-ratings/