wolf1438

Hi, recently i bought 30 ft HDMI 2.1 optical cable. Everything works, resolution, refresh rate except ability to enable G-sync. I know, for G-sync you need DP cable. So i was thinking i just buy DP to HDMI active adapter. I got few questions. 1. Will it work? Has anyone some experience with it? 2. Do i need 2 adapters both on source (GPU output) and monitor or just 1 adapter on source will work? This question is because active DP1.4 to HDMI 2.1 cost around 60$

Hi, i am trying to undervolt my i7-12700k on asus proart z690-creator wifi motheboard. Recently i have change my MSI Z690 motherboard because i needed thunderbolt ports. On MSI undervolting was easy, even on ROG motherboards, but this ProArt, I am really confused. As i said instead of traditional BIOS settings i got this like expert-mode voltage settings. Like what the hell ASUS? I just want to undervolt my CPU according to thousands of guides on the internet using same naming scheme. I am just trying to set CPU Core/Cache Voltage to offset mode, set CPU voltage to 1.290, offset mode to - (negative) and CPU core voltage offset to 0.130 With this values on my MSI motherboard i ran CPU almost 10°C cooler. So is there anyone who could help me with settings on this particular motherboard?

Hi, i have recently seen Linus new house build video and i really liked the idea to have gaming PC in different room (cooling and acoustic). So i would like to do something similar to his old house setup with thunderbolt. I need some advice, how to do it. How to pass Display port signal 1440p 144Hz, usb keyboard/mouse and audio over distance 10 meters ideally over single cable via thunderbolt dock. Could you give me link for the needed hardware? (cable, dock station, etc...)

I have Corsair RM850x not some explosive cheap Gigabyte and as i said the PC was still running, just the monitor went dark. And about the cooling. I got custom CPU and GPU watercooling with reservoir and 2 280 radiators running 7 140mm Noctua fans on 800 RPM because i wanted silent machine. OFC i have fan curve set to crank up if the temperatures are over 70 degree Celsius, but other games were running just fine. I passed 70 degree only during synthetic benchmark CPU and GPU stress test. Yes i am running monitoring software when i am setting up the graphics of new game but i turned it off after 2 hours waiting in queue and then i was so excited to finally log in that i spend first 10 minutes with gaming, not monitoring.

Sadly i am the next victim. I regret that i didn't watch last JayzTwoCents video earlier. I bought EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 ULTRA early this year at January (i know i was lucky bastard that found one at MSRP price). Even i put EK GPU waterblock on it. Everything was fine until today morning. I started New world. After 10 minutes i heard my fans went 100% so went to graphics settings and set it to medium. After apply the monitor went black, but PC was still working. So i rebooted the PC and heart BIOS VGA error beep sound. After second reboot everything was working. Even i ran 3D mark Port royale and 10 minutes Heaven benchmark. I knew about new world beta GPU issues but i was thinking the problem was hotfixed long time ago so i started the game again. When i got to character screen and pressed continue, the monitor went black again and i heard pop sound (like the fuse break) and felt metallic smell from my PC. I immediately turn the PSU power switch off. After few minutes i tried to boot, but no luck. After 10 tries followed by BIOS VGA error beep sound i knew, its 100% dead. I am really hoping the EVGA will claim my warrant despite of fact i got GPU water block on it (i switched original heatsing before claim). This game is cursed!

So today i have finished the Corsair Hydro X build witch Crystal x680 case and here is the result. I had to swap Corsair GPU waterblock with EK Vector, because Corsair still has no stock for ROG Strix RTX GPU.

Thanks, are those 240 or 280 mm rads? I can't see clearly from the picture. Also i have some questions about this particular case and build configurator. Here is a conig code: 7fZDj8. When i clicked on the build guide, it shows configuration with 3 radiators so its kind of misleading. Also I saw water pump attached to the back of the front cover. Are there some mounting points for included water pump holder rails? I saw how to video where they mount pump to the radiator. Also in build guide they recommend to use 280 mm rads. The think is i got a plenty of ML 120 PRO fans so if i use 240 instead of 280 would it be sufficient for cooling? In this particular case i would like to use top and bottom 240 rads with ML 120 PRO exhaust fans, 3x LL120 RGB as intake fans and 1 ML 120 as back exhaust/intake fan and put 2 RGB strips on top and the bottom of case corners. Also from the picture, when i use bottom rad with fans, is it still possible to mount gpu in vertical orientation? Is there enough clearence for PCI riser?

Yeah i saw reviews, etc. But there is on big problem with their revolutionary right sided mounted radiator. I have build in desk table with clearance on the left side. If i put the case on the floor, the right side of Lianli case with exhaust will be blocked by the left table wall. If i put it on the desk, all that hot air in these hot summer days will be blowing directly to my face. So no, thanks.

Yeah me too. I found this build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnmIGnZaFK8 just instead of 500D RGB SE i will use regular 500D and ofc softtubing with 240 on top and 360 on front Also i would like to use raised GPU configuration for showcase. Unluckily the Corsair ran out of ROG STRIX RTX 2080Ti GPU waterblocks, so i have to wait 3 weeks to restock supplies. The second option would be Crystal 680x case. At the begining it was priced 250€ and now i found great deal at amazon with discount just around 190€

Hi, i would like to swap my old carbide 300r case. I am quite a beginner in custom watercooling world, but after i saw Linus Weird Off-Brand Motherboard video, i've decided to give it a try. Here is a list of HW i am going to work with: CPU: intel Core i9-9900K MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F GPU: ASUS ROG Strix RTX 2080Ti OC RAM: HyperX Predator (4x) PSU: Corsair RM 850X (All white - include cables) HDD: 2x M.2 on MOBO and 2x 2.5' SATA SSD As you can see, most of my parts are black or white so my idea is to build black & white themed build with CPU and GPU waterblocks, reservoir/pump combo, clear softtubing and white (with tint of blue) RGB light. Which Corsair case would you recommend me for this build, that fits all my HW and Hydro X watercooling? P.s.: I have already searched Corsair websites and their configurator, but they have so many cases in offer and i would like some recommendation from first hand watercooling builders (ease of build, thermals, troubleshooting, etc,...)

Yes this is what i am doing right now, but my goal is to shut the fans down when the PC is idle and make the system as silent as possible. I got crappy 15Mbit DSL internet speed so if i want to download for example 50GB game on steam i have to let the PC run for 12 hours. I do it mostly over night, but my PC room is also my bedroom and physically disconnecting and reconnecting fans from mobo header is also a bad choice. Yes i know i can buy some fancy expensive Noctua silent PWM fans, but before i do that, i would like to know if it actually solve the problem.

I have noticed strange fan curve on my PWM fan. I am using ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-F and the Fan Xpert utility. When i ran fan tuning it shows that my fan at 0-10% power run at maximum RPM, then from 10-20 it quickly drops down then from 20 to 100% behave as it should. The problem is because of this behavior a can't run silent mode profile because it just kicks the fans in at maximum RPM. I am using Arctic F12 PWM fan as rear exhaust fan. Is this Motherboard issue, or BIOS issue or PWM Fan issue?

OK so i have finished the build and here are my results. Firstly i will have to swap 2 prebuild non PWM fans, because i cant adjust fan curve and they are pretty noisy. Secondly i ran Prime95 stress test (just quick test withut OC if everything is working). At the beginning the first 10 minutes i was freaking out. Temps were almost 90°C. Then 1 minute later the AIO pump kicks in and the temps are now holding around 65°C (i forgot that watercooling need some time to kicks in) Tomorrow i try to do some overclocking and i will see. Here are some pictures of build. Please don't rate my cable management. Wiring 9 fans isn't easy task. The 3,5' HDD is just temporary until i export my steam library on SSD. Also i ordered black Corsair PSU and they sent me the white one (its closed case without tempered glass so i won't RMA it). Also i had an issue with my fan splitter, it is using MOLEX cable. With my old modular PSU i had one cable that had 2 sata connectors in the middle and one MOLEX at the end, but Corsair modular cables comes with Molex or sata only. So i had to install full lenght Molex cable just to power fan splitter.

My progress so far. I jerryrigged my desk and removed bottom desk stand. This give me extra 15 cm at top. Also i mounted 3 cm wooden legs at the bottom of case so now i can use bottom side for air flow. I modded the case - removed DVD-ROM top bracket also removed 3,5 bottom drive bay (i was inspired by this YouTube video. I have 15 cm open back space and 10 cm from left side. I can move the desk 10 cm more forward, but thats the maximum, else the desk starts hitting my bed. I have totally 9 120 mm fans, 2 of them are not PWM. I will install 6 PWM fans on the radiator so question is, where should i put the other fans and what configuration should i use. I am thinking about this: Front side - 6 PWM fans with radiator in push/pull mode as intake Bottom side - 1 non PWM fan as intake Back side - 1 non PWM fan as exhaust Top side - 1 PWM fan as exhaust Last time i repasted was almost 2 years ago. The Corsair aio cooler comes with pre-applied thermal paste, but i still have Arctic MX-4 as backup. As i said right now its 15 cm with option to increase to 25 cm. About temps. With ambient temp below 25°C the temperatures were fine. With long time gaming the temps peaks around 72°C. I tried small overclocking with asus AI Tweak software, but the results were not great, only 4,65GHz OC. and temps starting to hit 78°C. So i kept it at stock settings. The problem started during hot summer days when ambient temp was around 30°C It went so far that i noticed thermal throttlind during 1 hour of play Ghost Recon - Wildlands at ultra settings. As Turtle Rig mentioned my main issue is with accumulated heat because my only open space for case was front side. Thank you for your help. I try mentioned configurations and then i post pictures and some temps from synthetic workloads at stock and Ai Tweak OC mode. If the temps will be fine, i try to top 5GHz OC.

I would like to improve my cooling performance, but the problem is, I have limited space for case on my desk (see picture below). The only open space is front side and little bit from left and back side. Rearrange the furniture is not an option so move the case somewhere else. This is my hw configuration right now: Case: Corsair Carbide 200r MOBO: asus rog strix z270 CPU: Intel core i7-7700K GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX-GTX1080-O8G-GAMING Cooler: cooler master Hyper 212X +7 PWM Fans ( 2 front intake, 2 top intake, 1 rear exhaust, 2 left side exhaust) As you can see, make a build with new smaller case would be an issue because of the full size ATX mobo and also ROG STRIX GTX 1080 is one of the longest GPU on market. And now to the point. I want to improve my cooling performance and also squeeze a little bit more juice from CPU by overclocking. I am planning to do small DIY project. This is my idea: I want to mod the case a little bit and mount 360 Corsair Hydro H150i watercooling on the front side with 6 fans in push/pull configuration. Remove the desk stand below case to lower the height and allow better air intake from top. Keep 1 rear and 2 left side fans as exhaust. What do you think? Is it worth the effort or really bad idea? Or any other tips?