Riziko

yes, they are just PWM fan connectors on the commander pro.
 
 

Usually a motherboard has 1 or 2 CPU fan headers and between 2 and 5 case fan headers.
So you probably need to get some splitter(s) to connect everything.
 
Your BIOS applies a fan curve to these fans, based on your CPU temp.

They will all go into the motherboard; you will need a fan hub though for that many

If you get a mouse mat it can help with sensitivity of the mouse I’ve noticed when I use a mouse mat so it doesn’t keep dragging against the table personally I use a tech net one just  for my mouse right now But I would most likely get a keyboard and mouse one in the future and would recommend getting one so you can move you mouse properly because sometimes I didn’t  use the mouse pad and my mouse felt like it wasn’t working properly So If I were you I would buy one it’s only £10-£20 and you can get a decent one for that sort of money not overpriced not cheap either somewhere in the middle for price and use

I mean "gaming" as in RGB or a more premium mousepad which actually is of a higher quality. Depends how one interpret word gaming I guess.
So at least some decent one that is not among the cheapest and looking cheap. Aside from quality and durability, they can depend on the glide friction feel. 

You're all bunch of savages!

No as long as the surface the mouse is on tracks well or does not cause any drag feeling then there is no reason for a 'gaming' mouse pad. 

I think any decent mouse pad is fine, only those really cheap mouse pads that you get for a few bucks kinda suck because they will often break quickly and annoy you.

I recommend a cloth mouse pad. It keeps the bottom clean and provides smoother motion. Other than that it doesn't really matter.
I have a Corsair RGB mousepad because I'm trashy like that, but it certainly doesn't help with gaming.

and here I am using a piece of card board as my mouse pad for FPS games

My point stands the 7700k is going to lose value fast.

Bruh, I never said the 7700k wouldn't lose value. I just said it wasn't going to be "outright beat" by the 3100x, which it clearly isn't.

Remember your selling used so there will be an automatic 20% depreciation on value.

Lets not get ahead of ourselves. I'm sure the 3200x will be very comparable, but I doubt that it will out right beat the 7700k let alone the 3100x.

other than you know the 7700k is about to beat by a 100$ R3 3100x.
 
no one will know the price in a few months.
I'd recommend selling the board+CPU now and getting that soon before it actually becomes a 200$ combo.

Is that "brand new" or "used" pricing ?
 
Considering you're not selling it today, we can't really tell you what would be a good price in october/september. Prices change. Especially in the used market.
 
What you can do, is just checking the Sold Listings for your parts on ebay. That should give you a relatively good idea of how much people are willing to pay for them.
Also, do take note that there is less money in an already built PC, compare to if you sold all the parts separately... Unless you find someone to buy it off you locally for a slight premium.
 
IMO, if you want to sell it, I'd part it out. Because you can reuse the case, SSD and even RAM since 3200 is more than fine, to save yourself some cash. 

I would break the price down like this: 
cpu: 150 Mobo: 100 AIO: 50 GPU: 500 RAM: 100 PSU: 80 (they are very expensive right now) storage: $120 so total that would be: $1,100 us. Sorry I don’t know your market. I would list it at like 1200-1300 and expect to sell it around the 1,100 mark.

Oh well, I mean the improvements over Skylake is minimal based off of it still being 14nm process. Its basically a 3 year old rig that will still perform for a couple more years...

Mindestens 1000€ sollten locker drin sein.
Eher mehr. Zwölf-dreizenhundert wenn alles im guten Zustand ist.

Alright well thanks for the help, I appreciate it

Once more, all amps I have suggested will do the job. It's hard talking value when audio gear is concerned.
 
Linear amplifiers spit out exactly what they eat, just amplified. In easy terms, whatever signal is coming from your source and feeding the linear amp will be exactly what you'll hear without any coloration, times the gain selected + knob position on the volume pot. If your music sends "this much bass into this specific frequency spot", that's what you get. No less, no more.

DAC stands for Digital to Analog Converter. Everything that produces audio has an internal DAC. Your TV, your phone, your old Walkman, everything. DACs translate binary code into wave signals that your brain interpret as sound. If the conversion happens in the confinements of a noisy environment, like the internals of your computer, chances are that if the audio section on your motherboard is not well shielded, you'll get buzz noise. Therefore, bringing the audio conversion outside of your PC will avoid this kind of problems. Have you ever heard buzz from the frontal audio connector on a PC? That's because the audio was converted on the back of your motherboard, and the analog signal was brought by a cable through the internals of your PC to the frontal connector. Even if you shielded the shit out of the cable, it would degrade the sound anyways. But now that I think of it, a balanced interconnect would work. Ha, go figure. There are a few other 100 bucks DACs that will make your day after you have all the other components figured out first. DACs do change the aspect of the sound, specially if they use a different topology, like R2Rs, but your other gear needs to produce a clean enough signal for you to notice the differences.
 
By the way, I've mentioned that the Asgard 3 would be my recommendation, but if you were not really tight on a budget, I'd go for the Drop THX 789. I really like it. The SMSL SP200 is supposed to deliver the same sound, but there have been way too many reports of problems with this amp for me to recommend it.
 
PS.: I don't like the sound of Beyers, they are too trebbly for me.

It's would be a pretty damn decent combo. You can spend more or less on something cheaper like a $100 amp. Or your onboard it's all up to you. If your that careful/hesitant I would do what @Derkoli suggested.

Schiit has a Eu store if you are interested in their gear

I have the Asgard 3, purchased direct from Schiit's website. It is a little monster. The only drawback for me is the lack of balanced ins and outs. Assuming you couldn't care less for balanced, it's the one I'd recommend from the bunch. Unless you are and audio geek and have some serious money to burn, I'd stick to the Asgard for good. Btw, the Asgard 3 can be bought with a 4490 module from AKM or Schiit's own multibit architecture module. I'd skip on both. For less you get more (once you are ready to get a dac).