MChrisp

It is enabled, and I get below 120 fps. I will have to check if it also happens with other games, but as I understand this technology, it does not matter, right? I also assume it should be exclusive fullscreen, to assure it works. But that should be enabled, but I will double check. Also thanks for the answers and sorry for the late reply. Did not get an email and forgot about it, as I am currently playing on my monitor...

Hi all, I recently finally upgraded my rig. One big reason for it was getting HDMI 2.1 with VRR, to get full use of my LG C9 which supports VRR. I enabled it on driver side and TV side (Instant Game responds is activated and I also get the info, that it is in fact active when my PC signal is selected, HDMI Ultra Deep Color also.) Sadly, I get relevant screen tearing. (It is really bad, even I have scenes, which are not moving so fast and at 90 fps I am wondering how it would be this bad even without vrr at all.) I can notice this on Witcher 3, which definetly runs lower than 120 fps, so it really should not happen with vrr, correct? Sadly LG does not allow meaningfull debug info on their side and all I can see on PC side, that it is in fact active. Am I mistaken, that vrr fixes screen tearing, or is it not working correctly? Can I do anything about it?

Recently my EKWB D5 PWM Pump broke after 5 years of usage for about ~4 h/day on 30 to 50 % speed. The rotor part knocks against the housing when rotating. (EKWB support suggested, weights came of, but it does not rattle and it does not seem to be unbalanced.) That it broke was kind of a downer, as I expected it to last way longer, given what I have read so far. I was a little disappointed in the noise levels the pump made, as a lot of people seem to describe them as not audible at 100% which is just not the case for any D5 I have heard. 30% is just at the point, where the fans are louder. As my EKWB Pump broke, I hesitate to buy a replacement from them, but at the same time, there is not a lot of choice. I do know, that all D5 are coming from I believe one OEM, but that doesn't help my case. However I did find these pumps from alphacool: VPP Apex pump and 755 v3 (which are both no D5 Pumps, but compatible and very similar to a D5) But I cannot find any usable/current reviews for any of those pumps. So I come here to benefit from your experiences. Does anyone have one of the alphacool pumps? Or any other suggestion for a silent pump?

I was a little confused by the first mail, that you cannot make steel black without coating. Because you definitly can. It is called steel bluing. This process turns the outer most iron of the steel into black iron oxyde. As I understand it, this is pretty durable amd in theory even when you scratch it hard enugh repairable. @LinusTech maybe look into this. Or maybe you did, but the way the mail was written it did not sound like it. Or it is too expensive, but with this price I don't think it is a great concern. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)?wprov=sfla1

I have a really weird problem. I am trying to switch to linux. So I got myself Garuda and installed it. All good, worked like a charm. I booted into it for the first time, all good. Installed some stuff, updated the system, worked all good. I restarted. It booted into Garuda. I had to log in. Keyboard does not work. Mouse also not responding. So restart. Did not help. I tried to find something on google about it. Only thing that came up was update your drivers. Ubuntu has this problem after updates. (Garuda is arch based btw). Problem beeing: I cannot do this before it boots. In the grump console or whatever it's called there is no command available for it. I tried reinstalling Garuda but I could not boot from the stick anymore, that worked 2 hours before because it cannot load the drivers all of the sudden. (Stuck in boot on this point...) So I uninstalled it completely and went for essential os. After install on first boot same problem. Mouse and keyboard are not working. For fun I plugged them from the USB 2.0 Ports to the 3.0 ports. That fixed the mouse for like 5 Seconds. After that its dead again, and it was not reproducable, only worked once. (Nor did it work before on Garuda.) Uninstalled that too and was anyed by Windows, that I had to use cmd.exe to delete the system partition of linux, futher pushing the point, why I want to switch. Why have an UI if it cannot do simple stuff like this. Has anyone any idea, what is happening here? I mean, I am willing to invest some time into linux, but without even beeing able to log in, this is kind of pointless. BTW: I have WIN 11 installed on the same SSD, with TPM 2.0 Module active. 7700K and a 1080 ti. Fast boot was disabled, I cannot completely turn of secure boot for some reason on my asus motherboard, but it was changed to "other OS", which apperently is correct... Otherwise it won't boot at all, right?

I do. Actually I read, that the NC helps with the white notice for some headphones weirdly. Which I also observed on the Sony XM4s. Which I returned because they have comically bad microphone (mix between bad mics and also software... Not acceptable at this price.) I feel like wired is still the only way to get decent audio. I ordered the Cambridge Audio Melomania Touch and give them a try.

Hi everyone, I am desperatly looking for a pair of decent sounding wireless (BT 5 preferably) in ear monitors that do not make this for me agonizing white noise. That doesn't seem to be around and realy sadly reviewers don't seem to care about this topic too much. I looked at various BT IEMs (Sennheiser Momentum TW 2, Bose QC, Sony WF, Soundcore) and they all appear to have this annoying white noise in the background. And I do not mean the noise if your ear is sealed. I mean bad Signal-to-noise ratio, which is probably causing this. (I am no expert, but that seems to me is the problem) And sadly I can't even compare any tw buds for it, as no one is giving the specs for Signal-to-noise ratio... I hate it. At this point I don't even care what the cost. (Well, that is an overstatement, but you get my point) Can anyone point me to a pair of earbuds, that don't have that white noise? Or at least just a tiny bit. (Maybe someone heard the Cambridge Audio Melomania?) Or is this simply not a thing yet? (Why is this even so bad in the first place? I mean my USB-C DAC is freaking tiny and has like no noise at all...)

You are totally right. I know, I'm a little late, but even at that point on Friday he will not do any good to anyone and actually do not harm the people he intends to...

Ok, after doing a lot of trying... The Problem was in my LAN Adapter. It was connected via USB 3, it might have been a driver issue or something.

Hi everyone, I just set up my old PC as as freenas. I have no experience in this field, but it was straight forward, so I got it working. But my write and read speeds are terrible. 1.6 write and 12 MB/s read. My Setup: PC and FreeNas connected though router via Gigabit connections A WD Black D10 GameDirve 8TB is connected via USB 3 to FreeNas. Direct Performance over USB 3.1 on my main pc is about 200 MB/s. Freenas runs on a downlcocked i5 3rd gen on only 2 cores @1.6 Ghz with 8 GB of DDR3 1600 RAM Drive is in a Pool type "dataset" (compression on or off does not affect anything) NAS is shared through samba. Connection is there, feels very snappy. So no waiting for opening folders. But copy a File or test speed with a tool you pretty much only get exactly 1.6 MB/s every time. Can anyone help? I did not find anything regarding this extremely low speed. Thanks in advance.

Ok, I thought that the dirty bit might be the problem. Maybe it is fixed after I included WIN7 in Bootmanager of WIN10. But at least now I know that this is an actual thing. I will disable fast boot. But why? Thanks for the answer.

Hi everyone, I need your help! My Girlfriend has lost some Data for her PhD thesis... I am not even sure, if this is the write category but I suspect it is. I have in my girlfriends PC 2 SSDs and one HDD. 1. SSD = WIN10 2. SSD = WIN7 3. HDD= Backup for WIN10 via Versionhistory I "installed" WIN 7 via a clone of an old HDD of a Laptop. Worked fine. I did not include WIN7 in Bootmanager of WIN10 nor the other way around. Is that necessary? I just booted WIN7 or 10 from Bios, if needed. A lot of times, the PC (WIN10 or WIN7) the PC checked the drives for errors after start. This seems odd, as the drives new or not older than a view years or so. This was so on the old Laptop, which I copied the WIN7 from. I thought, this was actually a HW issue. This also continued in the new PC, in which I build the old HDD with win7. So I naturally hurried and got a new ssd and cloned it. Worked fine, but the drive checking did not stop. Now actually 4 files disappered. Three were copied from an USB-Stick in WIN7 into the WIN10 drive. They were definetly there in WIN7. Restart in WIN10, they were gone. Also another file disappeared. They also were not restorable with a recovery tool. (Not existing, so could not even try recovering it) I than proceeded to restart again and acutally let the storage checking proceed (in WIN7). It restartet after that in WIN10 and 2 of the 3 lost files were there again... 3rd one still missing. I naturally also used the in WIN10 included Tool for checking drives, but that said, all is fine. I now included WIN7 in Bootmanager of WIN10 and did a bit of testing and I do not get this behavior anymore. But it is hard to test. Has anyone an idea, what is going on? Or another tip for restoring the lost file?

I found the problem. Was a shortage in an SATA Power connector. It actually burned and melted some cables. Some of which were connected to the Mainboard. (Power Switch, front USB 2, other power connectors) It was pretty hidden, so I only found it after rebuilding the PC. Guess it fried the Mainboard occasionally and with it the ssd.

If I remembered correctly, it showed the slot, but could not get drive information on my machine. Nothing on the other.

Is there something specific you need to know about the drive? I do not have the PC at hand. I can only tell you, that last time this happend not even the bios registered the ssd correctly. So there is no chance, gparted will...