SALEEN961

I just finished building my wife's new gaming PC for a grand total of $216.23, the most expensive part was the case because she wanted it to be pretty, and the second most expensive part was the new PSU, because I didn't want to deal with troubleshooting old hardware running on an old PSU. The system is running XP 32-bit and after tinkering for about a week I have my overclocks pretty much dialed in.
 
The 3GHz 800MHz FSB Pentium E5700 has been overclocked to 3.45GHz with a 1200MHz FSB which isn't bad to the G41 chipset. The ram is actually underclocked to 1200MHz with super tight timings and I really liking the performance of 1200MHz CL6 compared to the 1333MHz CL9 the DIMM defaults to even if this is pretty slow for DDR3. So far it's running all the games it was built to run maxed out and never dropping below 60FPS so overall we're pretty happy.
 
Let me know what you guys think of this retro build in a modern case.
 
BUILD SHEET:
$41.99 Asus P5G41T-M LX Plus Motherboard
$63.59 EVGA Supernova 550W G3 PSU
$24.37 Inland 120GB SATA SSD
$63.58 Fractal Design Focus G Mini Black Case
$12.71 SATA to 3 x 4-Pin PWM Sleeved Fan Power Adapter Cable
$ 9.99 Asus Wireless PCE-N13 Wireless Network Card
FREE   Intel Stock Cooler
FREE   HIS 1GB HD4670 GPU
FREE   2GB Kingston DDR3 1333Mhz
FREE   Pentium E5700
FREE   CDRW Drive
FREE   Corsair SP120 Fans (left overs from other builds)
 

https://ftp.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/43.0.1/win32/en-US/
I downloaded the full FireFox 43.0.1 setup file from the link above and moved it onto the XP machine with a flash drive.
 
The IE6 on my machine was also too outdated to download any new browser using that machine, even google.com wouldn't load, but I could get current news from MSN.com for some reason.

Since this retro PC exists for the sole purpose of running old software smoothly I didn't really consider the internet browser being too old to get along with the modern internet. It took me a while to find an actual download for an old version of firefox, but sure enough that seems to have worked, thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
 
Can you tell this is my first retro box lol

Maybe it's an issue with the fact that your ISP is only providing you ipv6 and windows xp is too old for that?
Why are you using an obsolete OS?
 

I actually ran into a similar issue with one of my old PCs that is running Windows Vista.
Re-installed the OS, and web pages wouldn't load properly.
Web browser was too old, and unsupported.

Thank you for posting those videos, I found a lot if the info in them very interesting.

Radeon R7 240 in a retro gaming machine: 
 
 
So either of those cards should be okay with the retro gaming you plan.
 
Also some YT channel above, AMD is favored over Nvidia:
 
 

Your problem is likely the default CPU core voltage, many boards will ramp it up to over 1.4V, manually set it to 1.25V as a starting point and see how it runs from there, you may be able to go lower, but this should be a safe and much lower voltage than the AUTO setting.

Your problem is likely the default CPU core voltage, many boards will ramp it up to over 1.4V, manually set it to 1.25V as a starting point and see how it runs from there, you may be able to go lower, but this should be a safe and much lower voltage than the AUTO setting.

You should still be able to change the voltage, it's the base clock and base clock multiplier that you cannot change.

TrigrH is correct
 
Depending on your motherboard you may not be able to control that fan speed independently from the CPU fan or you may not be able to control the fan speed at. Old my old Gigabyte board the CPU fans were set to 100% at all times unless you used 4 pin fans, other fan headers could regulate the speed of both 3 and 4 pin fans.

This is true
 
Voltage is only half of the equation when looking at power consumption and heat output. Amperage increases with CPU load or clockspeed while the voltage remains the same and since wattage is calculated by multiplying voltage and amperage together the wattage used by the CPU increases too. Wattage is a unit of power, when wattage increases with load (amperage), clockspeed (amperage), or voltage the heat output increase too.

Both clock speed and voltage effect temps in my experience.

I would just verify some simple things, is your CMOS battery dead or missing, meaning your overclock disappeared when you unplugged the tower, how are your temps, maybe your CPU cooler shifted during the move and the dried thermal compound isn't making great contact afterwards.
 
Improper voltage is possible but not terribly common, using your favorite monitoring software check your 12V, 5V, and 3.3V voltages if they're all correct while under load then your power supply is making due with whatever voltage is going in it.

I've had nothing but great experiences at Microcenter, they even know my non-techie wife by name, Lou at the St. Davids location is awesome, he always keeps her entertained while I browse for hours.
 
I just meant that paying for the warranty wasn't a fun addition to this unexpected bill, but having "no questions asked" and getting new parts would have been nice. I always thought "how often does a CPU fail?", well after this experience I bought the warranty, the 3 year plan on the motherboard and CPU cost me $150 in total, but I was out $850 today because I didn't have it.

That voltage is pretty high, I would lock it to 1.25V for stock clocks or update your BIOS as it's likely that newer revisions have better more refined vcore tables. What motherboard are you using? The temps you mentioned are not a problem.

That voltage is pretty high, I would lock it to 1.25V for stock clocks or update your BIOS as it's likely that newer revisions have better more refined vcore tables. What motherboard are you using? The temps you mentioned are not a problem.

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

I think people just need to stop paying for their internet connection if it gets throttled, if no one pays with their new BS rules they'll be forced to not implement them, but good luck getting the masses to even notice what's happening let alone go without internet.

I think people just need to stop paying for their internet connection if it gets throttled, if no one pays with their new BS rules they'll be forced to not implement them, but good luck getting the masses to even notice what's happening let alone go without internet.

You'll probably be fine leaving them in, but I would remove the upgrades just so you know for sure that you'll still have them. When sending stuff in for repairs there isn't always a guarantee that you'll get your exact unit back, and any upgrades on yours might be overlooked and not swapped into an "identical unit" you'd receive.
 
It should be easy enough to remove everything, on my Probooks everything comes apart in about a minute.

Wait for black friday and get a great deal on the outgoing 7700K or 6700K and get a cheap cooler like the 212 Evo if you need one. I know you said you have a non overclocking motherboard, but these cpus tend to go on sale more often, that being said, if you see a great deal on a 7700 I think it would work well too.
 
Right now a 7700 which comes with a cooler goes for $279 at microcenter or $315 at bestbuy so with some sale pricing as the holidays approach it should fit into your budget.

Thank you very much, I had set a custom resolution earlier but I left the timing set to automatic, once I changed the timing standard to CVT reduced black everything looked exactly that way it should.

Intel cheap i5s like 6400, 7400, 6500 and 7500.
 
Ryzen doesnt officially support Windows 7 so you take the risk of things not working properly with Windows 7.
 
I'm not sure whether G4560 can handle these work smoothly, so go for i5s to be safe. You dont need K CPUs for these kinds of work (as well as saving some money on not buying a Z mobo) and the i3-7350k is stupid no matter what you plan on doing.