Daysy

Found them on <AliExpress> if you are a super noob you might want to practice a couple of times before soldering onto your card as sop8 isn't exactly the best thing to learn to solder on

You haven't given us much to go on to help you out but I would say you need to break the problem down and de-bug it 1st is your app working? Could you display the values you are sending over Bluetooth on screen and some kind of status indicators to confirm you are connected? 2nd is your car working? You could use some LEDS or an OLED on spare pins to display some information, or send some information back over Bluetooth to be displayed in your phone app? The first step to fixing a problem will always be finding it.

also to make it work for all of them try if(mant == true && (s1 == true || s2 == true || s3 == true)) {

if(mant == true && s1 == true) { digitalWrite (buzz, HIGH); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, LOW); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, HIGH); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, LOW); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, HIGH); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, LOW); delay(100); digitalWrite(led, HIGH); delay(500); digitalWrite(led, LOW); delay(500); } else if(mant == true) { digitalWrite(led, HIGH); delay(500); digitalWrite(led, LOW); delay(500); } just swapping the two around and making it an else if should sort your issue. that way if the first step is met (the buzzer sounded) then the second will be ignored you could also use a for loop to tidy up the buzzing like this: if(mant == true && s1 == true) { for (int i=0; i<3; i++) { digitalWrite (buzz, HIGH); delay(100); digitalWrite (buzz, LOW); delay(100); } digitalWrite (led, HIGH); delay(500); digitalWrite(led, LOW); delay(500); }

USB Power Delivery (USB PD) is the protocol that would allow your power bank to deliver a 20v charge voltage to your laptop. It's an open standard so in theory you could make your own client side port to charge your laptop from but it would be a seriously in depth project

Apt-get purge <package name>

Firstly welcome to the hobby! So I'll do my best to give you some help on each part you have chosen. Frame - as others have said 3D printed frames will break easily but I say if you want to do it then go for it. I do think though that the mavic clone style might make your build a lot more complicated than it needs to be, something more of This Style will be much easier to build out and get in the air. If portability is really of a big concern for you then perhaps look into the 3" class of quads Motors - The ones you have chosen have a standard size and KV for a 5" drone, but without a way to load up the STL I don't know if they will fit on that Mavic frame (they will definitely fit a 5" frame though). Also that brand isn't one I have heard of so I get the feeling the quality might not be the best. Flight Controller - Don't buy that one! it's designed to run brushed motors on a drone that would fit in the palm of your hand. This FC is in a similar price range and I use one myself, but with this you will also need a Power Distribution Board Like this. For a few dollars more you can get One of these that has a PDB built in and gives extra features like being able to overlay battery information onto the video feed, which would be my recommendation ESC'S - I don't see a problem with those, they are definitely not on the cutting edge but they will get you in the air. One thing to watch out for though is that, in my experience at least, when they fail they are likely to bust into flames which could be a problem in a 3D printed frame Radio - I have a QX7 myself and love it! They are fast becoming the new standard in the FPV community. One thing you haven't listed is a Radio receiver. Goggles - no problems there I have heard good things about those Battery - that thing is HUGE, most people will fly 1300 or 1500mah on a 5" set up, I would also recommend going straight for 4S rather than 3. The other number you want to look out for is the C rating, in short that is a measure of how hard you can work the battery and for a quadcopter you want to be looking about 70C+ These would be a popular choice Battery Charger - That one should be fine although you will out grow it quickly if you get deeper into the hobby Props - those are far too large. I have no idea what size props the mavic frame takes but as I have said I few times 5" is the most common size for FPV drones. These are my favourite, you will see they are listed as 5046 for the size, the 50 = 5" and the 46 refers to the pitch, the higher this second number the harder the props will work your motors. Prop motor esc balance is a topic you can talk on for hours but with the motors and esc's you are using I wouldnt recommend going over 5046 and a 5030 or 5040 might be better for your setup I hope that this is of some help, if I can help you any more just ask

So after a quick google I have seen a couple different photos of the drone, some of them show 3 wires coming from the camera underneath some of them don't, I yours has the 3 wires you might be able to pull a video feed from the yellow wire but without ever having had one apart I'm definitely not going to tell you it's a good idea. This AIO would work fine from your 1s battery you would just have to connect red to red and black to black then find a way to mount it, then If your phone has OTG support This receiver would let you watch the video on your phone. However DJI this is not, you will be looking at low quality analogue video but it would definitely help you to frame shots.

Glad you figured it out!

@Judd Could you copy paste the terminal so we can see exactly what's going on?

I think that might be your problem, in the guide it says in section 2 Although you would think chromium would work with Google two part I would try running step two again being sure to follow the part at the end where you install luakit and make it your default browser carefully Actually having just read you post again it's more likely, Don't put spaces in the password just type the 16 characters, the spaces are there to make it easy to read

3 days in and the quads still alive charging batteries has been a pain so I haven't flown as much as I would like but have managed to fly every day so far and flew the most beautiful beach today without ditching into the sea or filling my motors with sand.

I'm going on a road trip! Me and the Mrs are taking a campervan out into the country for a week and while it's not going to be an fpv trip I am taking my gear and it's my full intention to fly every day. So the question is how many days before I break something I can't repair on the road?

If you are looking at tearing the phone down then buying a new known working logic board and swapping it in would be infinitely easier than swapping the flash chip

Looks like bottom right to me but it's hard to read the silk screen from that photo

That's a push fit connector, you need to push the dark grey part in and then just pull the pipe out while holding it down

The kit will be great if you just want to play around with lots of components to see what they do. And I think there are a few arduino powered HID projects out there so you should be all good

I'd say you are getting your money's worth of components but if this is your first step into arduino it may be of better value for you to get a cheaper more basic kit to start playing around with the basics, learning the skills you need to successfully complete bigger projects in the future and then just ordering those parts required for what you want to create. So far as arduino "clones" go, there isn't really any such thing. The arduino project is open source hardware and software so while the very cheap boards can have issues and are best left alone buying from China shouldn't cause problems as they are built to the same hardware specs as the official "Genuino" boards. Buying from the arduino foundation simply helps to fund the work they do with education e.c.t

Haha so true, almost hit a dog walker I didn't see under some trees the other day and decided it was time for an upgrade

Welcome back @Legolessed New camera and VTX today. excited to finally be able to fly with other people and to be able to see where I'm going!

Yeah the element and temp sensor are inside the tips, I'd say that is actually one of the TS100s bigger cons as it makes the tips quite expensive to replace.

Nahh heater is inside the tips, the tip could be oxidized that would cause poor thermal coupling to the joint

I do my day to day soldering at 330c (not just quads but other projects too) and never have any problem, I haven't ever had mine past 350c even for very large joints, I think something must be wrong for you to be having problems at 400c

@Hackentosher @LittleCarrot thanks will give that one a shot. I can shove a couple lipos or something in there with it to use the space. I have a TS100 as my only soldering iron and while very big joints like the XT60 can be a little tricky I find it works great, I use mine from a 12v power supply at home without any problems maintaining heat at all.

Hey does anyone have any recommendations for a case to fit the QX7? In particular something quite low profile. I am currently using the box that it came in but really want to find something a little smaller to free up some space in my bag, however I only seem to be able to find cases for the X9D