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About Hydroxyl

  • Title
  • Birthday 1992-04-03

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Rotherham, UK


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX KHx2400C15 16GB
  • GPU
    ASUS ROG 1080 Advanced
  • Case
    Corsair Air 540
  • Storage
    1x m.2 SSD(250GB), 1x Sata SSD(250GB), 2x Sata HDD (2TB)
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650i
  • Display(s)
    BenQ RL2755HM 27" + Acer K272HL 27"
  • Cooling
    Cryorig H7
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Vengance K95
  • Mouse
    Corsair Sabre RGB
  • Sound
    Corsair Void
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. Yup. Checked it 3 times. It even made my PC fail at boot twice after it went on with Windows, so had to disconnect. Update #2: It is detected in external case with SeaTools and it does pass "Long Generic" test, but fails "Short Generic". Hmmmmmmmmmm...
  2. Hi guys! I have a bit of a weird situation here. I got for free from my friend, SSHD from Seagate. Normally, it doesn't boot at all, despite the fact that it spins. Sometimes though, it works flawlessly. It's so random that I have no idea what could cause it. SeaTools does not detect it, but Disk Manager detects it up to ~1,5 minutes after booting to windows, then it disappears. As I got it for free, I'm happy to try any options you will drop. Did you ever had something like that? How did you combat it? P.S. Disk1, that's the one on photos below, and whenever I try to do anything with it, it gives me the error. But like I said, sometimes it works flawlessly. (1 out of 80 starts of PC). Update#1: When I connected it through outside HDD case through USB 3.0 - nothing happened at all. USB 2.0, worked, but windows said that there's a fatal hardware problem. (attachment 3)
  3. Well, it actually allows me to OC. Bios had this option since I remember, and it was working great. How low would you recommend to lower it? Never played with voltage, so I have no idea where to start.
  4. Hi guys. So I have a small problem with OC. First, my setup: [MOBO] GIGABYTE A320M-S2H-CF (Bios F22b) [CPU] AMD Ryzen 5 1500X [CPU Cooler] AMD Ryzen Wraith Spire [RAM] Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 [GPU] Zotac GTX 980TI Amp Omega [Case] Coolermaster Silencio 352 Matt Black micro-ATX Mini Tower Silent Case [Fans] 3x Corsair SP120mm So, I tried to OC it (3.8 CPU and 2933 RAM) and since it was stable, everything was fine, but I got CPU temps which were way too high (89, 93*C). So I changed it back to 3.6 and after playing Witcher 3 for an hour I reached 90*C. I checked it with HWinfo64 and NZXT Cam Software. So, my problem is: 1) Way too high temps, 2) GPU has Coil Whining, so it needs to be in silent case. Solutions: 1) New case? 2) New CPU Cooler? Which one you suggest? I want small case so it won't take a lot of space, so I am happy with the one that I have now, but on the other hand, I'm worried that GPU might heat it up. But, If I buy like 120mm AIO, will it really help? And how much? Anyone faced the same problem? Thanks!
  5. I'm going to use Fractal Design Define R6 with NZXT Kraken x72 on top, so 3 fans as outtake on top, and 3 on front Noctua NF-A14, and additionally one on back, also Noctua as an outtake. I want to keep them in as low RPM as I can, so it will be super quiet.
  6. Hi! I'm planning a new build soon and I have a small problem. I don't know which one to choose. My hit is on EVGA 1080 (as I have ASUS 1080 now, but coil whine, even the bad one, is not RMA'd by them), and I know that EVGA has no problem with it. Also, I'm planning to buy 2nd hand card. So, now the main question. Blower Style 1080 or Normal? I'm going to play in 1080p only, 144hz, so technically, GPU won't be under massive load. Also, I always downgrade graphics to stay with around 60*C. So: Blower +: 1) Around £100, £150 cheaper, 2) Makes less noise when under load, 3) Does not heat everything else. 4) Looks! 5) Possibility to water cool with a Hydro kit. -: 1) Temps 2) Always ON fan. Normal +: 1) Fanless mode, 2) More quiet without load, 3) Looks? 4) Better temps, 5) Higher Clocks -: 1) Heat! 2) Noise Main thing for me is not super cooling, but lack of noise, and since 80% time I'm gaming, I think I would go with Blower and It's cheaper. I'm asking you guys if any of you had any experience with both of them? Any additional Pros/Cons? Thanks!
  7. I paid 10 pounds for it. If it won't work I just mount it on a wall just to look cool. I'll get some cheap pentium and test it on it then.
  8. No. I did bought it this way. I will post pictures when I get home.
  9. I will, when I get back home. But, let's assume for now, that it has updated bios. Can I actually damage CPU if the pins would be damaged?
  10. Hi guys! I recently bought Mini ITX board (z170) which pins were bent on socket. I do have only one CPU which is in my main rig, i7-7700, and I want to check somehow if the board is working after my recovery attempt. Do you know if I can somehow break the CPU, burn it or whatever if I plug it in? Is there any way that it might get bricked? Thanks!
  11. Like it, but what's the point of having plenty of RGB when you can't see it?
  12. I do have x64, yes. And I really love it But I want to buy x52, because radiator is smaller = supported by both of those cases.
  13. For Gaming/Streaming i would go with 2x 8GB ram sticks. Your motherboard can only have 2 of them, and with streaming AND gaming on a same PC - you'll need that. Check my list, based on yours. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fJxxGG
  14. Nah, I love NZXT design. I really want it to look and play good. And not to be so loud.
  15. No, my parts for now are here: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/v8FbXP More-less. I don't really want to sell or buy new graphics card, because I bought mine before mining disaster, so... yeah.