SiggyPony

I just thought this would entertain someone especially if your upset you can't upgrade the memory on your GPU, well you've just got the wrong type of GPU. I upgraded my graphics card to 2mb of ram Now I can run windows at 1024*768 with 256 colors at 72Hz. Now to play DOOM after some Dangerous Creatures

I think you should be fine. i5 6400 looks like only 65watt. I have a EVGA 550 G2 (550watt) powering a 125watt FX8350, a RX580 8Gb, 4 Sata HD's and a SSD. System has 16gb ram also. I think you'll be fine with a 500watt for that system.

I though I'd put this here where someone having the same issue I had might find this. I recently brought a N5110 with i7-2670HQ, 8gb ram and GT525m 1Gb for my mother. It's plenty fast for her purposes But on trying to update the computer it refused to upgrade to Windows Version 1803 claiming the BIOS is no longer compatible with windows despite having the latest Dell bios for N5110 (A11, 03/08/2013). Well after about 8 hours I've manged to get it to update to Windows Version 1809 because obviously the bios is unsupported I got past it by using the Windows 10 Update Assistant to go directly past 1803 to 1809. If you get a BIOS unsupported error from windows updater, first make sure the updater isn't doing anything else at this moment and open the "Services" window thingy and stop "Windows Update". Then go to the official Microsoft windows 10 download page, and it'll have an option to "Update now". Download the file and install it and follow the prompts and after forever hopefully you'll have gotten past 1803 and have 1809 or newer installed. If it refused to install and said another instance of an update was running of something go stop windows update like I said above ^^ if it refuses to stop, restart your computer and stop it before it can start doing its evil. and don't forget Dell's word on this... N5110 end of life, windows 10 not supported, blah, go buy a new dell laptop blah. Hopefully your laptop work well again and you happy why buy a new laptop when the old one still gets a 7100 passmark score

So I've just brought a new battery for my L702x (I've been running it without one for the last 4 months). The battery shows that it has 88% charge when plugged into the computer, but it doesn't charge, nor does the computer work off the battery. If I unplug the adapter the computer just dies. When I got the battery it worked and I charged it too 100% (When I got it was at 70% or something). When I did my first test once the battery dropped to 88% the whole computer just died. Power button didn't work anymore. When I plugged the adapter back in it booted with angry warning to turn my laptop off immediately because the battery was overheating and needed to cool down. The battery was really really hot, so I powered off the laptop and took the battery out and left it to cool. The battery also has a rattle now, like something is come loose inside it. Computer is working fine like always on mains power, no issues right now. I analysed the battery connector on the laptop to find the negative and positive terminals and the ground terminal that activates the battery (this kind of laptop battery has I think mosphet protection and won't give or take charge unless a certain pin is shorted to ground on the connector. ) Once I figured out the correct pins and activated the battery it's only reading 0.6v once it stabilizes (definitely dead). But the batteries internal power indicator still lights up all lights to show a full charge. What I think has happened is some protection circuit on the batteries pcb must have fried itself? preventing power from going in or out of the batteries main terminals. But I think the cells are still holding the 88% charge internally and the computer is still communicating to the battery over the serial data bus that monitors the internals of the battery because it still monitoring the cell voltage, serial number, make etc when the battery is plugged in. Thats my theory. Does this make sense? Or might it be something else? I've never seen a laptop battery fail in this manner I am returning the battery to the supplier as soon as I can, I don't have another compatible battery to validate against, but I used the same method to check a battery on a different laptop and it showed a normal voltage of 10.5v when activated. Also, battery is a 90Wh 9cell R795X

I thought I'd share this, seen as it was totally crazy and unexpected (for me). (First yes I know that as a general rule using paste to replace a pad is a kinda really dumb idea, but those results...) I wanted to service the cooling for an HP Elitebook 8460p. When I first got it after having its Heatsink cleaned it would after two run thoughts of Valley benchmark have reached a max temperatures of about 88 - 89degress on the CPU (i7-2720QM) and 87 degrees on the GPU (HD7460m) I've always wanted to replace the thermal pad of a laptops GPU with a copper shim but have never had the chance. When I looked at the thickness of the thermal pad it's only about 0.1mm? maybe less over the die, much less then the thinnest 0.3mm copper shim I have. So I wondered if I could just do away with the pad entirely and just use thermal paste. I've used MasterGel Pro before but find it rips cpu's out the socket (AM3+) if I'm not careful because its so viscous compared with say Arctic Silver 5 (Normal choice). So I went out on a limb and guessed that if its that thick, it'll probably fill the gap where the pad was well. So, with the same testing (I also repasted CPU obviously), the difference on the GPU is 15 degrees!! Like WOW lol. Now even with more prolonged testing the GPU maxes out at 72 degrees. To me that difference is insane. I am so used the laptop GPU's practically cooking, much hotter then the CPU. Also, CPU temp went down a more modest 11 degrees to average 77.5 with same testing. Now that cool too, but the GPU temp... Gobsmacked lol. Now I'm not saying you should do this on your laptop lol. But maybe its an option depending on the tolerances between the GPU die and heatsink are small enough. And I'll have to keep an eye on the temps incase something changes as I wear the GPU in. I found this laptop in a junk bin for $35. That price is also nuts, as these are still sold here second hand for $500 - $700.

I am not sure but if this was my computer I'd first try a different OS. Maybe try booting a Ubuntu live disc and shutdown from that and see if it has the same issue. If it shuts down fine it might be some weird OS issue. After that, I'd try removing as much stuff as possible from the computer and just boot from a Ubuntu live disc so you only have motherboard, CPU, minimal ram and if no on board graphics the GPU. If that doesn't resolve it, try swapping out parts until you isolate the offending component. And don't forget to try a different PSU, sometimes they cause weird as hell problems, like maybe its refusing to power down. This is how I'd try figure out what is wrong but I've never seen an issue like it before.