Steo

Mine was delidded and idles at about 30°C usually. The max in games would normally be somewhere around high 60's to 70°C with a 240mm Arctic Liquid Freezer. I have mine at 4.8GHz and it needs around 1.32v, but if I dial it back to 4.7GHz at 1.25v it runs a few degrees cooler.
 
EDIT: These are my HWMonitor temps at 4.8GHz after running Cinebench R20:
 

 
 

Nice, I hope you have fun building it! Sometimes you get good prices on the likes of the 3700x. The main thing you just want to be careful with is to not bend the pins on the CPU. Best of luck with it.

I ended up taking a deal for a Sapphire Nitro+ SE card since I got a good deal on it. I was going to take the Thicc III otherwise, but this one seems fine.

I switched to Linux, mainly because I don't like Windows 10 and support has ended for Windows 7. I have never owned a Mac personally, so I can't speak for MacOS. For Windows 10, I dislike many things about it, telemetry is just one thing, I don't like the idea of that at all.
 
I started out by trying Mint and Ubuntu, and at that stage I had many problems, though that's likely due to the fact that I was a Linux noob at the time. I eventually tried Fedora for a short time, then found out how to get Debian working properly by using non-free firmware. I really like Debian, but since I noticed Arch gets updated regularly, I ended up switching to Arch and I love it. I do still dual-boot Debian, but I had to mess about a lot with dependencies to get a later version of Mesa to work.
 
I use KDE Plasma for my environment on Arch, and some AURs for certain things like mesa-git for the GPU. There are even AUR wrappers to make it easier than having to git clone and run makepkg, though that's already relatively simple in my opinion.
 
I personally like how you can learn a lot with Linux, and you get to see what the system is doing at all times if needed. You might have to jump through some hoops when it comes to getting some things up and running depending on your distro, but I actually like that. It's cool to be able to learn some things instead of just double clicking .exe files.
 
Package managers are also amazing, pacman (which Arch uses) is actually a really nice one. Arch is actually much more easy to maintain than I would have expected also, when I first installed it, I seen that many people said that Arch always breaks etc.. It only breaks if you do something wrong, then you can fix it with chroot (assuming you didn't do something drastic, like run sudo rm -rf /*) and learn from your mistakes at the same time.
 
Anyway, as Nayr has said, if you wanted an Arch like experience without going through the manual installation (which has no GUI), Manjaro has a GUI to simplify the process. It's not exactly 1:1 with Arch, but it's very similar, and it also uses pacman and AURs etc.

The only problem with Vista is that it's no longer supported, so you won't get security updates anymore. Some Linux distros are very lightweight and can run really well on old hardware, though the i5 520M isn't exactly terrible.

I personally have 2 systems setup with the similar hardware with a 5700XT, both running chaotic-aur/mesa-git , chaotic-aur/lib32-mesa-git , and chaotic-aur/linux-tkg-pds-zen2.
One system on Manjaro and one on Arch.
You may try those packages, if it still has issues, I would place fault on the card.
 
For Windows, I have never been able to get a fully stable experience on either system.

I throw this here to, since I managed to forget it on my arch system. Make sure you grab chaotic-aur/xf86-video-amdgpu-git as well. it got me when I was enabling freesync and xorg kept crashing.

Thanks for the info, I'm just waiting for the refund to be processed, then I'll be purchasing another 5700XT. I'll keep a note of all these things and be sure to uninstall the Nvidia stuff once I get the card.
 
My entire system just kept freezing randomly, Windows event log had no info about the crash, and either did journalctl in Arch. The system would just stop responding entirely.
 
As for the card itself, I'm now looking at the XFX Thicc III or one of the Sapphire Nitro+ ones. The Thicc III doesn't have all these flashy LEDs, but it would perform it's intended task, which is the main thing. I liked how quiet the Gigabyte OC was, but part of me feels like buying the same card again would result in the same scenario. I know that's highly unlikely, but I can't help but feel that way lol.

Tier S The best (Highest end PCB, exceeding cards)
AMD: Reference with custom cooler
Gigabyte: Aorus
MSI: Gaming X
Powercolor: Red Devil
Sapphire: Nitro+
XFX: Thicc III
 
 

I still had issues with 20.2.2 on my 5700XT, so I sent it back. I'm planning to buy a second one in the hopes that it will actually work. My PSU is 550w, and it happens to have 2 12v rails, one is 20A and the other is 28A. I thought that maybe this could be the issue, but then I tried the GPU in another computer with a good 650w PSU, only to have it go nuts after about an hour and constantly crash.

@ReeseRiverson That's an amazing collection! You make my collection look like complete crap in comparison, I don't think I have a system that was built for anything older than XP at the moment. ?
 
I'd love to have more stuff, mainly a decent CRT monitor for starters, but I don't have anywhere to store anything else and people already call me a hoarder. ?

@ReeseRiverson That's an amazing collection! You make my collection look like complete crap in comparison, I don't think I have a system that was built for anything older than XP at the moment. ?
 
I'd love to have more stuff, mainly a decent CRT monitor for starters, but I don't have anywhere to store anything else and people already call me a hoarder. ?

Just a few of my retro computer machines and parts... and one of my 486 motherboards is the model with an actual GUI for the BIOS. I wonder if @LinusTech ever happened to of seen one of those beauties before? ?
 
 
 
By the way, I can capture any footage of the BIOS directly if any one would like a clearer shot, since I can capture VGA output easily.
 
Now for the rest of the goodies.

Raid takes a little longer likely because the array needs to initialise before boot

initialize 

I use the Queen's English not bastard English 

That's what I'm thinking. They have a lot of 5 star reviews. I like the look of so many other ones but because they use the US layout it'll probably get a bit confusing for me. The @ sign and apostrophe are switched on the american keyboard and the £ sign is # instead etc. so it'd mean I'd have to switch to the US layout instead to use one of them. I'd probably just get used to it in minutes but then again I'm so used to this layout that I'd rather not take the risk. I also noticed the UK layout keyboards seem to cost more. I'd imagine it's due to them being manufactured locally and they like tax a lot over here.

I'm probably the least suitable person to answer this but If they look good to you, features included, you should go for it, so many reviews can't be wrong.

This isn't so bad either https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/KJM323/eagletec-kg011-wired-gaming-keyboard-kg011

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wTRFf7/redragon-k555-indrah-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-bc82815

I got my first mechanical keyboard ever today. It was an impulse buy 'cause I didn't really need it.
One of my requirements was also for it to be backlit for the same reason as you. Also I didn't want to spend much but I saw the reviews of the one I got and they were great, plus the RGB lights (not true RGB but good enough) and effects it has are insane for the price. Also after last minute research I did, I went for red switches because they are quiter and I didn't want to run into any problems with the neighbors (far fetched but I stay up 'till very late). The blue ones have a more satistying feel though I think.
Anyway, check this one out and search for videos with it to see the effects it has.

http://www.gearbest.com/keyboards/pp_623395.html

I got my new case today and I decided to just go with the Arctic Liquid Freezer 240. It was 83 euro on Amazon with free delivery since there's no priority option and it's 1 to 2 weeks even if I paid the 8 pound sterling shipping price (10 euro) so same shipping time whether I paid 10 or not basically.
 
This is it now and I'll let you know how I get on in a week or so when I get the cooler

 
 

Yup. I you want cheaper cooling, get a massive air cooler. It'll perform as well as a low end 120mm AIO. 

So, what is the history of Up Here leakages?
My point is, being cautious and trying to research a product before jumping to it is perfectly fine. But just being prejudiced is a strategy to get ripped off by brand names. I mean, Up Here could charge $120 for the same product just to have people believe the quality is better  
Some firms just don't spend as much on marketing or don't have the brand name to be able to charge more. It doesn't mean they are cutting corners where it matters (but of course, they could! So nothing wrong with the cautious attitude )
 
Arctic uses some of the thickest radiators in the AiO market, so clearance can be a concern, ans I guess noise too, but performance will typically be very good for the price.

The Arctic freezer outperform high end corsair/nzxt aio's.  Uphere seems ok but the ARCTIC is insanely good value.