katoptrys

I solved it. It boots up now. There had been thermal paste remains on some CPU pins from the removal I think

All power connectors are properly seated. Could it be damage to the motherboard?

So I was changing my CPU's thermal paste, because I was having pretty bad temps and I figured I had applied it wrong. When I went to remove the heatskink, it came off with the CPU attached. I made sure there were no broken or bent pins, cleaned everything with alcohol and put the CPU back on with new thermal paste. Except now the computer won't turn back on at all. No fan spin or LEDs. Nothing The computer was completely disconnected from power at the time of the removal, it had the PSU both off and without a cable to the wall

Well, first of all, have you upgraded the BIOS at all? Memory compatibility tends to be more stable on the latest revisions. Also, did you tune the voltage on the RAM so it might help stability? I haven't had luck running it on auto myself. Another thing, if you OCed the CPU core clock instead of the multiplier, that might cause memory instability as well

If you have the spare lanes in your rig I'd go for a PCIE or M.2 wi-fi adapter, they are generally rather small and easy to install. USB tends to be less reliable, I have a spare USB wi-fi dongle I use only when I have to because they get, at least in my experience, WEIRD signal drops even within 3 meters of the access point, and they aren't quite as fast. Plus, it depends on the person but USB ports might be much more at a premium than PCIE ports in your motherboard

Well, first of all, have you done any overclocking on it? If you haven't, I'd recommend checking a guide on undervolting your CPU to improve temperatures. There should also be a following improvement on your GPU's temps as the CPU's temperature lowers. Also unless you're going for SUPER silent, I'd say try to ramp up the fan speeds a little more and it should improve your temperatures quite a bit. CPU and case fan speeds are adjusted through the BIOS, at least as far as I know, GPU fan speed can be tweaked through MSI Afterburner

Newer NVME SSDs have a THEORETICAL speed improvement. Unless you're doing stuff like writing constantly to it or moving heavy project files like in video editing, casual tasks like gaming, everyday applications like browsing the internet, or even opening windows will see a MINIMAL improvement. Unless it is for a professional task, it's not worth it. Also, SSDs can last longer than 10 years depending on how heavily you are writing to them

Hm. I would not personally trust a motherboard to be able to push anything north of 100-ish ohm, let lone 250 or even 600. As much as they may advertise, there is a LOT of noise inside your computer and I'd go as far as to say I can hear a difference with my 50 ohm HD598. You will NOT get a clear sound signal. You might struggle to drive them. I'd say a DAC is not necessary unless you want a boost to sound quality, but I'd find a decent AMP for those cans. If you want something lasting and good quality, I'd go with a Schiit Magni, it's about 100 bucks and generally great unless you're working with EXTREMELY high res stuff like professional audio. You can always also upgrade your set down the road with a Modi, which is their DAC, for another 100. Magni + Modi is a pretty decent kit. If you need something a bit more budget they have a combo called Fulla for 100 bucks but I haven't tried it personally, or you could go with a Fiio combo like the E10K, they are also a very decent brand.

Well, the H60 is only a 120mm so there is only so much it can cool. Depending on how much you OC/undervolt your CPU you might be able to squeeze better temps out of it. I had the same AIO until the pump crapped out on me a couple of weeks ago, but usually under an intense load I'd get 70C at 3.9 GHz (I had my voltage set up at 1.45). As far as air coolers go, I'd recommend a Dark Rock 4 from bequiet, it's about 160mm IIRC but performance should be great and they are, as the name of the brand states, very quiet.

After re-plugging everything one by one three times it turned on. Solution: ask Corsair to make less shitty power switch connectors

I was trying to figure out if my AIO's pump had died earlier (I thought it died a couple of months ago, replaced back with the stock fan, and tonight decided to try my luck). I heard it running while plugged into a random system fan, checked HWmonitor to make sure, and as it was decided I'd use it. I changed the cooler, plugged everything in, but pressing the power button on the PC won't do anything. There is no fan spin and no LEDs light up on the motherboard. I've checked the PSU is on, the cables have all been re-seated just to be sure, and the CPU has no bent pins. I may have tightened a bit much the first time I applied the AIO but the CPU seemed fine at a first glance. Any thoughts on what it might be?

32 GB of RAM feels kind of unneccessary, IMO. Unless you need it for some other task, you should be fine with 16GB and use the money for a better cooling solution

Oh, definitely. I don't say he should go 3000+, I mean going from 2133 to 2666, last time I checked, the difference was under 25 dollars. 2666 is a good bargain sweet spot, I'd think

The only thing I'd consider changing is the memory. Ryzen gets a boost, even if small, with faster memory, and the price difference between 2133 and 2666 isn't very big. Also, unless you plan on buying a second stick in the future, Dual Channel gives you a noticeable performance improvement, so if you are going with 16gb, go with 2x8

The HD6XX are 300 Ohm Headphones. You're VERY likely going to need an amp for them

Aftermarket coolers are better in most cases, because of the way they cool. Besides from the factory overclock, it will have a larger headroom

So my dad is travelling to Europe next week, and the Sennheiser HD 598 SR are on sale (The open back model is at least). I plan on getting a DAC/AMP combo, but the only decent available here is the Fiio E10K (that doesn't cost 4 times as much as it should). Is it a good combination, or is it not worth the upgrade and I should stick to my motherboard audio? (It costs around 150 dollars here)

Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could go with a Ryzen chip, a B350 board, 16 GB of RAM, and you'd be fine with the GPU. Unless you wanna do anything above 1080p, the 1060 is more than enough (make sure you get 16 GB of RAM though, I have the same GPU and 8 GB just isn't enough, you get massive stutters)

Anything above 3200 MHz is not guaranteed to work. Even 3200 can be tricky at times. This applies to all AM4 boards, not just MSI or B350. Also, if you are still picking your parts, go with a different motherboard manufacturer, best options are Asus and AsRock for AMD (My mobo was an aesthetic choice and was also limited by what there was here)

The game hates to run if your windows, steam and game installation are split between different drives. It happened to me the first time I downloaded it, it just wouldn't run. No idea if there is a fix. If it isn't that then no idea

I think it would be done through the icloud app. I'm honestly not sure as I haven't used it before personally, but classmates who had to film shit on their phone for class did that all the time. Either that, or try emailing yourself the attachment

I would personally try if you can get it on your icloud and download it on your computer. I'm lucky that I've never had to move stuff from my 6s to my PC, because I know it is a nightmare

I'd say that an 18 core processor won't really shine unless you want to do serious streaming besides from gaming. Even with a no-limit budget, you could go with the 7900X and get nearly identical results, probably, if that is not the case. It's 1000 dollars less, which you could put into a pair of HD 800S for audio if you want to get serious. Also, the schiit stack of Magni+modi is pretty normal and very high quality. As for monitors, there aren't any 4k 144Hz and honestly not even two 1080Ti can drive that kind of framerate-resolution. I'm not sure if anything above 144hz 1440p exists but that would be your best bet, for a mix of resolution and high refresh rate

If you have the chance to upgrade later on, go for the single 3000. Ryzen loves fast RAM, and I was on a single 3200 slot for a year without it being -unbearable-

I'd recommend you run the free windows at first and buy it later down the line