Tech22

They would be connected to a 'smart' hub. According to gamers nexus, the fans connected wont run until it is setup. You have to put the cpu and gpu at load and idle with VERY strict utilization %, which Cam 7-8% cpu utilization and you have to keep it under 10% for like 15 mins, then having to put it at load, but it has to be between 65-80%, again, pretty difficult to keep it there for a while. After that it works fine, but it is such a hassle to get it setup and it uses "AI" to detect the sound level of your pc to make it quieter (lol, that seems pretty false). It is a pretty dumb fan hub. Also the cable management bracket is really poorly designed, kills all opportunities for watercooling with the top part, and crushes all the cables being routed through it. This case could have been great, but it failed badly.

Nice.
 
When is Valve gonna re-evaluate their revenue split? Getting real tired of the Tencent spyware grabbing all the good games like Metro, Satisfactory, and Outer Worlds.

My concern with Epic is that I think they will just double-down on exclusives. ?
 
They've shown zero indication they plan on making a serviceable client.

I'm curious over what more they'll do. 
 
Because as much as I hate exclusivity, Epic is starting to get Valve's attention, and I hope they respond appropriately. 
 
Just not with more exclusives, because fuck that. EGS third party exclusives are already bad enough. We don't need more. 

Yeah it's pretty clear that when last light came out the metro series wasn't that well known compared to today. I learned about the game quite awhile after its release and loved it and I am sure I am one of many. Those people likely are some of the people who bought exodus. I was actually looking forward to playing it until I found out it would be an epic games store exclusive. I guess I will have to wait a year. 

It only 'drys out' because it got too cold. Gallium melts at 29.76°C, wherever you got this from, in their case the CPU became colder than that, causing it to become solid. This has nothing to do with copper causing it to dry out. But you should also know that Gallium corrodes ALL METALS EXCEPT tungsten and tantalum. Copper and many others just takes a VERY long time for it to do so (10+ years).
This ^ regular TIM is the best option for that, liquid metal shows almost no improvement whatsoever on top of the IHS. 

Looks like a Magicforce 68.

You can use it, it is the intended purpose. But supposedly, using two individual 8 pins gives minute better power efficiency, according to JayzTwoCents.

GK64 has a lot of issues sometimes. And the shift key is 2U, so custom caps become a lot harder to get. Also, the switches tend to pop out when pulling keycaps (this hotswap board specifically is the only one that does this). 

At that price range you can get a high quality custom.  Something like in my profile.  And you have way more (and better) options besides Cherry MX.

1) $60? so? You can't even buy the H100i new anymore, it's discontinued. New AIOs like the H115i, kraken X62, H150i, all cost far over $100. That is what I mean by "high end AIO"
 
2) Who said anything about a kit? You should not buy a watercooling kit, different brands have different parts which are best for reliability, which is what matters in a watercooling loop. It is always better to buy the parts separately.
 
3) Linus cooled a PC with an industrial fan, and it worked great. We're not discussing house fans here, we're discussing you wasting money on a cheap watercooling loop and having to replace components which will end up costing more money in the long run. This is called "forethought".
 
4) If someone wants to pair a pentium CPU with a titan V because they think it is good, we will tell them no, because on this forum we try to educate people and prevent them from making stupid decisions.

Like someone else on this thread, I would personally go for a full copper watercooling kit like the EK-KIT P360 that I employ in my build.
 
Unless you're using coolant that is common in CLCs, I strongly advise against mixing aluminum radiators with copper blocks.

They bundle is because it lowers cost, no consideration of quality. They use a somewhat anti-corrosive coolant, and keep their fingers crossed that people dont complain/find out. Long story short, do not buy this kit. I believe their newer ones are all copper, but nonetheless I do not have a good opinion about TT products generally.

Copper, nickel (= plated copper) and brass are all fine to mix. Adding aluminium would cause galvanic corrosion. If you want to cheap out go alu only with all components (like the fluid gaming kits), or else avoid it in your loop completely if you're dealing with any of the other metals.
 
@Intars
I personally avoid thermaltake when it comes to custom watercooling. They don't really have a positive reputation in that area. 

Some Poseidon cards are cooling very badly!

Stereo music forgives simply insanely lot and if you want truly good immersion in games most closed headphones fail badly with binaural sound.
So if isolation of environment's sounds isn't needed closed headphones are bad choise.
That 100% setting isn't optimal, but first minute of this is excellent quick test for binaural sound stage of headphones with gun shots at different directions and distances:
With headphones I mentioned besides 360 directionality there's very good sense of distances.
while typical cheap closed headphones/gaming garbages feeling is like having head in bucket under water:
There's no sense of distance with some sounds just being more muffled than others.
Before having chance to test Turd Beach Z60's didn't even know headphones could be that bad.
 
And those are just "average bad" even in frequency reponse:
https://uk.hardware.info/reviews/6080/16/13-headsets-review-listen-in-higher-quality-turtle-beach-ear-force-z60
(all biggest hype names, Asus, Corsair, Razer, SteelSeries belong to worst category in frequency response)
 
Beyerdynamic DT770 should have good sound stage for reasonably priced closed headphone.
Though those tend to be on heavier bass side and with smaller sound stage that drowns out details lot more heavily than in open DT990.

If OP is using ANY nickel in his loop, he cant use the silver fittings (actually made of silver that is). It will corrode the loop because of the nickel.

Just wanted to point out about fittings made of actual silver in any loop as it corrodes nickel. The bitspower fittings should be fine but I would order lots of extra tube because the glass may not be perfectly round and not fit the fittings with some pieces you buy - so if you buy extra you wont have an issue of not having enough fitting pieces of glass.

They 'should' be ok, but there will be tolerences, some may be slightly tight others loose. Thats why i mention the Monsoon fittings, they make allowances for not only imperal vs metric sizes but also general tolerences.

Only On Silverstone.
 
Other than that: NO!

just use 2 360 rads, you will be fine, most rad manufactures provide exact dimentions of their rads, so just measure the case and see if they fit
I use 2 HWlabs Black ice nemesis GTS (slim line) with a hot xeonx5680 (OC 4,2) and GTX 980ti (also very hot card) and my fans are spinning at 900-1000 rpm at load and around 450RPM at idle. the fluid temp does not go above 42C (CPU is around 70C and GPU is around 55C)

I recommend: Do NOT read specs on the manufacturer page!

Please read reviews and tests, but in the end you should always take other users opinions into consideration.
The problem is, that a lot of fans seem fantasic on the paper but in the real world they are more or less just average. To me the most important correlation is cooling performance over noise, not over rpm! There are great radiator fans like the Corsair ML, EK Vardar, Noctua NF-F12, be quiet! SW3,... but in the end they all have flaws (ticking, humming, PWM ticking,...).
 
To me, the best fan is the new Noctua NF-A12x25, because it performs awesome. It can run at higher rpm and still be quieter than other fans with better cooling performance. 2nd best fan is the NF-F12 (classic or chromax, not the industrial).
I tested the NF-A12x25 against the NF-F12 and the A12 are way better!

Grab an air compressor and you're all set.

Well, this might be a crazy and radical plan, to radical for most on this forum even but; Have you considered blowing the dust out with a gas duster or compressed air?  Crazy I know but I've been reading some science on this and it might actually be possible.

Your loss. Jay seems to be the only person who seems incredibly positive about the Vue. Anyone who used pastel in the past has gotten wrecked by the Vue. Some people are even getting corroded blocks. Jay describes this as "cleaning" which is exactly the same as "taking layers off".
 
If you're still pushing ahead, at least do  the following.
- Drain the loop
- Open all your blocks
- Wash and scrub each block manually
- Wash the radiators very VERY well
- Reconstruct loop
- Fill with distilled water + system reboot
- Run for 2-3 days
- Drain loop
- Dissassemble loop
- Wash blocks and radiators with distilled water
- Completely dry blocks and radiator
- Reassemble loop
- Fill with vue, slowly (no air allowed)
- run loop for only 8 hours max per day, slow pump speed, preferably hot liquid temperatures.
 
This is the absolute minimum that you must do to even have a chance with the Vue. Just look through the overclock thread and basically everybody who has not done this with a pre-existing loop has gotten rekt. Pastels in particular causes big issues and even after doing the above, some have had issues (presumably due to the fact you cannot clean the radiator completely).
 
If you do decide to get it, please post here the results, more data points , the better for the community.