PizzaJailer

I recently moved my desktop to the room adjacent to my office because of the heat and noise. I now need a USB C hub to mount under my desk and pass through the wall. This hub would plug into a USB 3.1 Gen 2 port on my desktop. I would be using the hub for the data/charging cables of wireless peripherals and their dongles (which don't work too well through the wall), and the occasional USB thumb drive or external drive. I would not be running any displays. I'm having some trouble finding something that meets these requirements: At least 6 USB A ports A couple of USB C ports would be nice too Prefer the majority of ports to be on one side (but I'm also fine with some on the back) Flat top (so I can adhere it to the bottom of a desk) External power is fine if needed Black Is this feasible for a single hub? I appreciate any recommendations.

I have some StarTech 5.25" to 3.5" Hard Drive quick swap bays and a 5.25" Blu-ray drive that I would like to mount to the underside of my desk for easy access. Installing these bays in my case isn't an option since the front is tempered glass. I was hoping to use L brackets to mount the bays under my desk, but I am having trouble finding any sized specifically for 5.25" drives. Looking for something like these or similar mounting tech.

I currently have a LG 27GP950 that I am using as my primary display. I'm looking to get two more displays to place on either side. The displays should be a similar size 27" and have a similar non-HDR peak brightness (350-400 cd/m²). However, as you can imagine buying two more LG 27GP950's is a bit more than I can afford, and since I'm buying two I'm looking for something more budget oriented. Currently I am planning on purchasing two AOC U2790VQ's as the price ($250) is quite reasonable for the specs. However, these come with the notable downside of not supporting HDCP 2.2. It isn't the most important feature for me, but it would be nice to have an alternative option that supports it so things like 4K Netflix continue working (if any display plugged in to your machine does not support HDCP 2.2 4K content will not be allowed to play). Before I pull the trigger on these I wanted to check if anyone had any recommendations for a monitor with similar price/specs that does support HDCP 2.2?

Looking to assist my parents in purchasing a new laptop. I want to recommend something that will last them a long time as well as be powerful enough to future workloads (because everything is becoming an Electron app and using 1000x memory). Their workload usually consists of document editing and Zoom, although they are pushing the specs of their current machine (i7 6th gen, 8GB RAM) to the limit by never closing any Chrome tabs (200+). They cannot be helped in that regard. Fortunately, money is not an issue for them so I want to recommend something premium (<$2000). Must be a Windows laptop Will not be used for gaming Minimum of 512GB of storage and 16GB of RAM (RAM would be nice too but that is increasingly rare these days) Storage should be upgradable Build quality is important Tall screen aspect-ratio is preferred Must have a touch-screen (2-in-1 is not required) Numpad is not preferred 15-inch is preferred So far we tried the 14" HP Spectre, but returned it after noticing the horrible screen-door effect on the OLED screen... The other laptop I have found that looks promising is the Surface Laptop 4, although I am disappointed by its lack of thunderbolt 4 and the use of last-gen AMD processors. If we decided to purchase the Surface Laptop should we purchase the Intel or AMD version? Is there another laptop out there that meets these specifications? I have been hesitant about recommending an XPS as I have not heard great things about the keyboard on the new 13" and the 15" is still using 10th gen Intel.

This looks like a good device, but one concern I have is if I would be required to use wall power. The Amazon listing says one lithium-ion battery required, but I cannot find anything about battery power on the Logitech product page and nobody in the frequently asked questions section says anything that would indicate it having a battery. Due to the outlet placement in my home, being required to use wall power would make this setup basically no different than just running the 3.5mm cable all the way from my couch to my TV.

I have a g935 headset and a LG CX TV I want to use together. Because the g935s do not support Bluetooth I cannot connect them to the TV. The USB dongle for the g935s does not work with the LG CX. The g935s however, do have a 3.5mm jack that can mix audio input. Is there any device someone could recommend that inputs audio over Bluetooth and outputs it to a 3.5mm connection? This would be ideal for me as I could get both my PC audio for chat apps and my TV audio for gaming/TV at the same time. Is there any reason I should not consider a setup like this? Reduced audio quality, etc.?

I'm just trying to figure out if I need to replace the cables in my walls if I want to put my router somewhere else in my house. Is the cable that plugs into the MoCA splitter not a coaxial cable?

Ah sorry, the current router is connected by Coax. We used to have TV service from FiOS but canceled that half a year ago. The router is plugged into the ONT with a MoCA splitter, but it is the only thing plugged into the splitter.

I'm looking at upgrading my Verizon FIOS plan from 75/75 to either 400/400 or gigabit. Obviously since I haven't touched my internet plan for years Verizon says both the router and the ONT box will need to be replaced. I have a couple of concerns with though, I don't want to rent the recommended router from Verizon (the model g3100), and straight up buying the router is expensive ($300). Are there any alternatives that could offer me better/the same coverage at the same/lower price? Additionally, when Verizon says they will not offer you support if you use a non-Verizon router does that just apply to configuring your router or will they also not help you if you are not getting the advertised speeds, etc.? The other concern I have is will the coaxial cable that runs through the walls of my house be able to carry enough bandwidth to support gigabit speeds? Otherwise the only place I will be able to place my router is inside the closet with the ONT. Thanks

How are some of the non Parasonic Plasma's? I found a listing for the LG Plasma TV 60PZ950 which actually looks something like a modern TV.

Granted I've already acknowledged the flaws of buying a Plasma (especially used) I'm also skeptical of how good the contrast really is on QLED (especially on the budget side) and other LED dimming zone TVs. Here are some TVs I found: The cheapest TCL 4K QLED TV at $400 The cheapest TCL 4K mini LED TV at $650 The TV listed on rtings.com as best budget TV at $379 (VA panel) How do these stack up against a used Plasma TV? Assume I can find a 1080p Plasma TV in good condition for ~$125 and I only want to use the TV for a few years/whenever OLED becomes more affordable.

The current TV setup in my house involves a 49" TCL 4K LED TV which is placed in the basement and a 42" LG 720p LED TV which is placed upstairs in front of a large window that lets in a lot of light. Since the TV in the basement gets used in the evenings/night, the poor contrast offered by LEDs is really apparent. Watching Dark for example was especially agonizing given how dark the average scene is (you might as well rename the show to "Gray"). For the longest time I've wanted to move the downstairs TV upstairs where there are better lighting conditions and get a new TV better suited to a low light environment for basement. However, OLED TVs still remain outside my personal budget or anything I could convince my family to buy. Enter plasma. I was still playing Wii games when plasma TVs were the big thing. However, I've heard that even years after they stopped being produced they still had superior picture quality and especially greater contrast when compared to LED offerings, and after watching this video on Plasma TVs I thought, maybe getting a used plasma TV could be a viable option. Surely, like all display technologies the quality must vary significantly by model/year. I don't want to end up buying a model that performs significantly worse than another I could buy used at a comparable price. I also don't know what the upper quality ceiling for a Plasma TV is. However, I'm not sure where to look to find that kind of information. As an example, displayspecifications.com only appears to have data on TVs as old as 2014. Checking my local Craigslist these TV models appear to be the best options: Panasonic Viera TC-P42G10 at $75 Panasonic Viera TH-58PZ700U at $150 (I'm not concerned that the maximum resolution for Plasma TVs is 1080p, as long as I can find one that is. I'm also not concerned if the TV ends up a little smaller than the 49" LED. I'm aware Plasma has burn in issues like OLED and becomes dimmer over time. Hopefully I can avoid those issues by shopping responsibly)

After being forced to move back in with my parents because of the beer virus I ended up taking a look at our wifi plan. Turns out my parents have still been paying for a fios 50/50 plan which when I checked their website isn't even offered in my area (Northern Virginia) anymore. Instead the cheapest plan is the 200/200, which is being offered the same price as the 50/50 plan we are currently on. Turns out we are also renting a disgusting 5 year old router from them too. This information has prompted my parents to have me find a new router to replace the one we are currently renting, which is not an area I am super familiar with so I'm looking for recommendations. I would like the router to support WiFi 6 for some future-proofing (even though the household has no WiFi 6 devices) and have a good connection range as our current router has a very poor connection upstairs (although I cannot tell if that is because of the materials of our house or the crappiness of our current router). I'm not exactly sure what other bells and whistles I should be looking for in a router other than it should be powerful enough to support the abuse of my data hoarding addiction, my brothers online classes and some additional TV streaming. Thanks

I plan on adding a large number hard drives to my Silent Base 801 case. This will require me to install all of the five of the internal drive cages for the case. My GPU however, the RTX 2080 Strix is very long and when mounted horizontally will overlap with the drive cages. Fortunately, the Silent Base 801 includes a space to vertically mount a GPU, which is recessed about an inch from the horizontal mounting position. I've test fitted the components and have confirmed that mounting my GPU vertically will give me enough space to install the drive cages. However, I am worried about the weight of the card while vertically mounted. The Silent Base case does not have any stabilization for the underside of the GPU when it is vertically mounted, it is only attached to the back of the case. I need to find some kind of stabilizer that can rest on the top of the case's PSU shroud. As an example, I've found this stabilizer (https://smile.amazon.com/Graphics-vertical-kickstand-speed-extension/dp/B07FD8QXFM/) that appears to just support the card from the bottom. However, am unsure how much the height of the stabilizer can be adjusted and the snowflake that has been embedded into the plastic is objectively ugly. I'm also worried the front feet would end up hanging over the sloped part of the PSU shroud. Here is a picture of the case that shows how the vertical mounting is laid out: https://www.bequiet.com/admin/ImageServer.php?ID=50ae0a18114@be-quiet.net&omitPreview=true&.jpg Any suggestions?

necro

The age old recommend me a monitor thread, please let me complicate it further by looking for two that need to serve completely different purposes. I'm in need of one display for gaming and one to do UX work from home with. I have a flexible budget of $1K. In a gaming display I'm looking for high refresh rate and 1440p. I prefer color accuracy to response times. In a UX display I'm looking for color accuracy, 4k and also to be great to stream and watch Blu-ray on (especially in a dark room). Both monitors should be 27", not be curved, have the same bezel sizes, be vesa mountable (going on the same mount) and IPS with similar levels of brightness. The panel aside, the plainer the monitor looks, the better. Reds/white accent colors or "gamer angles" are not preferred (The stands will be removed when mounting so I don't really care what those look like). I'm also not looking to buy right away, sometime in the next 3-4 months. If there are upcoming monitors that might fit my wants better than what is currently available I want to know about it. Like, thanks ?

After doing some more digging, I've found that most battery banks with Micro-B input can also be charged by their USB-C port (if they have them). This opens some new questions, namely which battery banks would be compatible with my Nintendo Switch and if possible a generic non gaming mid-level ultrabook that supports USB-C charging.

Thanks for the recc ?, but I'd still like to see other suggestions (mostly because of how poor the placement of the power leds are ?). Anyway, you can't have a competition with just one entrant. I probably should have mentioned this too but I'm hitting the road this weekend so its Prime or nothing.

I haven't exactly found a dedicated section on the forum for battery banks, but in case I missed it Mods please move this topic. I am posting here because I will mostly be using the bank for my phone. Now, on to a purposefully dramatic post: I used to have a 22,000mAh RAVPower battery bank until it's battery swelled up like a balloon and popped open its outer casing like how I do with my jeans. I'm looking for a replacement bank with of a similar size, however, there is one gotcha I am trying to avoid: Micro USB. Seriously, I share a fury for this port like no other and I want to have nothing to do with it on a new bank. It breaks easily, is annoying to connect and I don't want to carry around a separate micro USB cable JUST to charge my bank. However, bank manufactures do not seem to share my hatred of the port (the cowards), choosing instead cheapness over quality and my convenience. Therefore I am looking towards YOU to help me choose my next battery bank. Personally, I couldn't care less if the bank is missing USB-C output as long as it has USB-C, and only USB-C input. If you've got recommendations, post away below. The person to find the winning battery bank will be awarded my official Micro-B haters award of 2019.

I recently received a refurbished black new 3DS XL as a birthday gift. The top faceplate on the DS came somewhat scratched and I was looking online to see if I could find a replacement faceplate online. I would rather replace the faceplate then pay for return shipping to try to get a DS in better condition, plus being a gift complicates returns further. I've looked at various online stores such as ebay and aliexpress but am having trouble finding the faceplate online. Can anyone help me find the elusive replacement faceplate? Thanks.

Or even better, buy at the sale price then take advantage of corporate daddy's generous 30 day return policy if something comes up cheaper from the warehouse.

Do you think Ironwolf/Pro would be a bit overkill for my use case? I only need to generate my data once (However data generation is slow, so the drive needs to be on for extended periods i.e., months) + occasional backups from my boot drive.

A few months ago I started a research project that required me to generate a large amount of data. I picked up a 8TB WD Elements external HDD for the price and my storage needs. However, yesterday it started ticking audible every 5 seconds at idle and when reading files it sounds like its scraping the plate. I've tried updating the firmware (Already latest) and changing the USB cable (Still makes noises even when not plugged into a PC, power adapter is separate from USB) with no success. As far as I'm aware all of my data is still intact, but I'm thinking I'll want another 8TB drive as a backup in case this one fails. I was hoping someone from the community could recommend me a drive for my use situation. I've seen a lot of conflicting reviews for drives like the Seagate Barracuda on Amazon and its making me confused about what I should purchase (e.g., This product is not as described, it was used or the incorrect model). I'm not playing games on this drive or accessing more than small parts of my data at a time. Basically I need a reliable drive that can store a large amount of data, and maybe like not fail within a few months. Of course if it is like $10 more for a non SMR drive I'll take that instead. And certainly cheaper is better, I'd rather have two drives with a greater chance to fail than one expensive drive that could still fail. I'd prefer an internal 3.5" drive at this point, but if you recommend an external one make sure its one I can take it out and use it internally without any hassle. I'm also looking for a HDD docking station with at least two slots for 3.5" drives. It doesn't need to have any built in features like drive cloning, but I'd at least like to get one that uses modern interfaces: i.e., USB-C, ditching the external power adapter if possible. Thanks for any help I get in advance!

The Aorus is the monitor I listed as an example of something that satisfied my needs, its just too expensive to own three of like most 144hzIPS1440p's. As for Acer I just don't respect them as a brand and would rather not look at their name on all my bezels. I guess I'd like to know if something new is coming up the tubes for monitors right now, don't want the same thing to happen like with my 2080 only for it to get SUPERED a few months later.

Great value, but like everything made by acer hideous. I'd have to get a triple vesa mounting stand and 3 gallons of holy water to douse the old one in before finally burning it at the stake. And even that doesn't solve the ugly textured finish on the front bezel. Curvier than my gamer bottom, like everything from MSI. Fan of the RGB lighting but not of the random red plastic in the stand.