PizzaJailer

I recently moved my desktop to the room adjacent to my office because of the heat and noise. I now need a USB C hub to mount under my desk and pass through the wall. This hub would plug into a USB 3.1 Gen 2 port on my desktop. I would be using the hub for the data/charging cables of wireless peripherals and their dongles (which don't work too well through the wall), and the occasional USB thumb drive or external drive. I would not be running any displays. I'm having some trouble finding something that meets these requirements: At least 6 USB A ports A couple of USB C ports would be nice too Prefer the majority of ports to be on one side (but I'm also fine with some on the back) Flat top (so I can adhere it to the bottom of a desk) External power is fine if needed Black Is this feasible for a single hub? I appreciate any recommendations.

I have some StarTech 5.25" to 3.5" Hard Drive quick swap bays and a 5.25" Blu-ray drive that I would like to mount to the underside of my desk for easy access. Installing these bays in my case isn't an option since the front is tempered glass. I was hoping to use L brackets to mount the bays under my desk, but I am having trouble finding any sized specifically for 5.25" drives. Looking for something like these or similar mounting tech.

I currently have a LG 27GP950 that I am using as my primary display. I'm looking to get two more displays to place on either side. The displays should be a similar size 27" and have a similar non-HDR peak brightness (350-400 cd/m²). However, as you can imagine buying two more LG 27GP950's is a bit more than I can afford, and since I'm buying two I'm looking for something more budget oriented. Currently I am planning on purchasing two AOC U2790VQ's as the price ($250) is quite reasonable for the specs. However, these come with the notable downside of not supporting HDCP 2.2. It isn't the most important feature for me, but it would be nice to have an alternative option that supports it so things like 4K Netflix continue working (if any display plugged in to your machine does not support HDCP 2.2 4K content will not be allowed to play). Before I pull the trigger on these I wanted to check if anyone had any recommendations for a monitor with similar price/specs that does support HDCP 2.2?

Looking to assist my parents in purchasing a new laptop. I want to recommend something that will last them a long time as well as be powerful enough to future workloads (because everything is becoming an Electron app and using 1000x memory). Their workload usually consists of document editing and Zoom, although they are pushing the specs of their current machine (i7 6th gen, 8GB RAM) to the limit by never closing any Chrome tabs (200+). They cannot be helped in that regard. Fortunately, money is not an issue for them so I want to recommend something premium (<$2000). Must be a Windows laptop Will not be used for gaming Minimum of 512GB of storage and 16GB of RAM (RAM would be nice too but that is increasingly rare these days) Storage should be upgradable Build quality is important Tall screen aspect-ratio is preferred Must have a touch-screen (2-in-1 is not required) Numpad is not preferred 15-inch is preferred So far we tried the 14" HP Spectre, but returned it after noticing the horrible screen-door effect on the OLED screen... The other laptop I have found that looks promising is the Surface Laptop 4, although I am disappointed by its lack of thunderbolt 4 and the use of last-gen AMD processors. If we decided to purchase the Surface Laptop should we purchase the Intel or AMD version? Is there another laptop out there that meets these specifications? I have been hesitant about recommending an XPS as I have not heard great things about the keyboard on the new 13" and the 15" is still using 10th gen Intel.

This looks like a good device, but one concern I have is if I would be required to use wall power. The Amazon listing says one lithium-ion battery required, but I cannot find anything about battery power on the Logitech product page and nobody in the frequently asked questions section says anything that would indicate it having a battery. Due to the outlet placement in my home, being required to use wall power would make this setup basically no different than just running the 3.5mm cable all the way from my couch to my TV.

I have a g935 headset and a LG CX TV I want to use together. Because the g935s do not support Bluetooth I cannot connect them to the TV. The USB dongle for the g935s does not work with the LG CX. The g935s however, do have a 3.5mm jack that can mix audio input. Is there any device someone could recommend that inputs audio over Bluetooth and outputs it to a 3.5mm connection? This would be ideal for me as I could get both my PC audio for chat apps and my TV audio for gaming/TV at the same time. Is there any reason I should not consider a setup like this? Reduced audio quality, etc.?

I'm just trying to figure out if I need to replace the cables in my walls if I want to put my router somewhere else in my house. Is the cable that plugs into the MoCA splitter not a coaxial cable?

Ah sorry, the current router is connected by Coax. We used to have TV service from FiOS but canceled that half a year ago. The router is plugged into the ONT with a MoCA splitter, but it is the only thing plugged into the splitter.

I'm looking at upgrading my Verizon FIOS plan from 75/75 to either 400/400 or gigabit. Obviously since I haven't touched my internet plan for years Verizon says both the router and the ONT box will need to be replaced. I have a couple of concerns with though, I don't want to rent the recommended router from Verizon (the model g3100), and straight up buying the router is expensive ($300). Are there any alternatives that could offer me better/the same coverage at the same/lower price? Additionally, when Verizon says they will not offer you support if you use a non-Verizon router does that just apply to configuring your router or will they also not help you if you are not getting the advertised speeds, etc.? The other concern I have is will the coaxial cable that runs through the walls of my house be able to carry enough bandwidth to support gigabit speeds? Otherwise the only place I will be able to place my router is inside the closet with the ONT. Thanks

How are some of the non Parasonic Plasma's? I found a listing for the LG Plasma TV 60PZ950 which actually looks something like a modern TV.

Granted I've already acknowledged the flaws of buying a Plasma (especially used) I'm also skeptical of how good the contrast really is on QLED (especially on the budget side) and other LED dimming zone TVs. Here are some TVs I found: The cheapest TCL 4K QLED TV at $400 The cheapest TCL 4K mini LED TV at $650 The TV listed on rtings.com as best budget TV at $379 (VA panel) How do these stack up against a used Plasma TV? Assume I can find a 1080p Plasma TV in good condition for ~$125 and I only want to use the TV for a few years/whenever OLED becomes more affordable.

The current TV setup in my house involves a 49" TCL 4K LED TV which is placed in the basement and a 42" LG 720p LED TV which is placed upstairs in front of a large window that lets in a lot of light. Since the TV in the basement gets used in the evenings/night, the poor contrast offered by LEDs is really apparent. Watching Dark for example was especially agonizing given how dark the average scene is (you might as well rename the show to "Gray"). For the longest time I've wanted to move the downstairs TV upstairs where there are better lighting conditions and get a new TV better suited to a low light environment for basement. However, OLED TVs still remain outside my personal budget or anything I could convince my family to buy. Enter plasma. I was still playing Wii games when plasma TVs were the big thing. However, I've heard that even years after they stopped being produced they still had superior picture quality and especially greater contrast when compared to LED offerings, and after watching this video on Plasma TVs I thought, maybe getting a used plasma TV could be a viable option. Surely, like all display technologies the quality must vary significantly by model/year. I don't want to end up buying a model that performs significantly worse than another I could buy used at a comparable price. I also don't know what the upper quality ceiling for a Plasma TV is. However, I'm not sure where to look to find that kind of information. As an example, displayspecifications.com only appears to have data on TVs as old as 2014. Checking my local Craigslist these TV models appear to be the best options: Panasonic Viera TC-P42G10 at $75 Panasonic Viera TH-58PZ700U at $150 (I'm not concerned that the maximum resolution for Plasma TVs is 1080p, as long as I can find one that is. I'm also not concerned if the TV ends up a little smaller than the 49" LED. I'm aware Plasma has burn in issues like OLED and becomes dimmer over time. Hopefully I can avoid those issues by shopping responsibly)

After being forced to move back in with my parents because of the beer virus I ended up taking a look at our wifi plan. Turns out my parents have still been paying for a fios 50/50 plan which when I checked their website isn't even offered in my area (Northern Virginia) anymore. Instead the cheapest plan is the 200/200, which is being offered the same price as the 50/50 plan we are currently on. Turns out we are also renting a disgusting 5 year old router from them too. This information has prompted my parents to have me find a new router to replace the one we are currently renting, which is not an area I am super familiar with so I'm looking for recommendations. I would like the router to support WiFi 6 for some future-proofing (even though the household has no WiFi 6 devices) and have a good connection range as our current router has a very poor connection upstairs (although I cannot tell if that is because of the materials of our house or the crappiness of our current router). I'm not exactly sure what other bells and whistles I should be looking for in a router other than it should be powerful enough to support the abuse of my data hoarding addiction, my brothers online classes and some additional TV streaming. Thanks

I plan on adding a large number hard drives to my Silent Base 801 case. This will require me to install all of the five of the internal drive cages for the case. My GPU however, the RTX 2080 Strix is very long and when mounted horizontally will overlap with the drive cages. Fortunately, the Silent Base 801 includes a space to vertically mount a GPU, which is recessed about an inch from the horizontal mounting position. I've test fitted the components and have confirmed that mounting my GPU vertically will give me enough space to install the drive cages. However, I am worried about the weight of the card while vertically mounted. The Silent Base case does not have any stabilization for the underside of the GPU when it is vertically mounted, it is only attached to the back of the case. I need to find some kind of stabilizer that can rest on the top of the case's PSU shroud. As an example, I've found this stabilizer (https://smile.amazon.com/Graphics-vertical-kickstand-speed-extension/dp/B07FD8QXFM/) that appears to just support the card from the bottom. However, am unsure how much the height of the stabilizer can be adjusted and the snowflake that has been embedded into the plastic is objectively ugly. I'm also worried the front feet would end up hanging over the sloped part of the PSU shroud. Here is a picture of the case that shows how the vertical mounting is laid out: https://www.bequiet.com/admin/ImageServer.php?ID=50ae0a18114@be-quiet.net&omitPreview=true&.jpg Any suggestions?

necro