88pockets

It sounds like you have done all you can with the HW side of things.  A 360mm rad is plenty and the upgrade to liquid metal should get you the rest of the way.  I am curious how good the contact is between the die and and the IHS.  I always put a thin layer of LM on the die and then another on the IHS where it will hit the die, very little is necessary.  With my 7700k I did not glue the IHS back to the package as I didn't want to have to tear it apart again.  The mobo CPU retention thing keeps the IHS In place just fine and then it cooled by a Corsair H110i -240 mil rad.  I think you should look at the voltage in the bios and see what tweaks yeild waht results.  Liquid Metal and a 360 mil rad should take care of it though.

2700 AUD, needs a 2700X and Two 2070s.  You know because 2700.  Honestly I would wait for the 3000 series chips before making the plunge

all you need is an SSD, and a new GPU. something like 1070ti and above. The CPU is still very good and there isnt anything that is truly worth the upgrade

I just heard of Syncthing through Lawrence Systems YouTube Channel.  Im watching the video now to see how it works, but based on his contenet if it works for him, its good enough for me.
 
 

Lol, I'll berate you while we play if that makes the situation more appealing.

If PCSX2's system requirements are any indication, you should be able to run 6th generation console emulators with that setup. As for the emulators themselves:
Higan - Supports NES, SNES, Master System, GB, GBC, and GBA. Some version support the Genesis and TurboGrfx16 This is an accuracy focused emulator, so if you need something that's more performance oriented: FCEU for NES SNES9x for SNES Gens for Genesis/Master System mGBA for GB, GBC, GBA (VisualBoy Advanced has a security flaw) Project64 - N64 ePSXE - PS1 PCSX2 - PS2 (It might do PS1, but I'd rather go with ePSXE) Dolphin - GCN and Wii.

if the parity breaks at the same time as one of the main storage drives, you would lose data.  If just the parity breaks, pop in a new drive the software will rebuild the parity drive.
 
you can always try out your config, FreeNAS is free and unRAID has a free trial

What are you doing with the system where you think unRAID would be that much slower due to the parity system.
 
The VM can be run off an SSD either as an unassigned device or as a caching drive.
 
I use unRAID with 6 total drives, mainly as a NAS, VM box (Windows, Linux, FreePBX) and a Plex Server and I have no SSD cache (ran out of SATA ports, lol).
 
I have also used FreeNAS and OpenMedia Vault.  All of them take advantage of Docker for Apps.  FreeNAS is advantageous for the ZFS file system, but there are caveats.
 
Reasons ZFS is less user-friendly to a consumer/prosumer.
1.  Cost, As you said Xeon + ECC Memory is expensive, though you can find decent deals on eBay for older X5670 Series or slightly newer Xeon E-3xxx Series Chips, DDR3 ECC is pretty cheap also on eBay.
 
2.  Your 8 Terabytes will be 6TB usable with a Z1 Raid and only 4 TB usable with a Z2 Raid.
 
3.  You have to add drives to your server in a series, you cannot add to your ZFS pool without getting multiple (I'm pretty sure 3 or 4 drives) at once. (note: could be more).
 
I really think you'd be happy with unRAID or FreeNAS, but I think it's important to weigh the pros and cons.  
 
Another important note on virtualization.  Check your motherboard and it's IOMMU groups and hardware passthrough capabilities.  I have an old Asus P6T (Socket 1366, x58 mobo) with a Xeon X5679 (6c/12c) and I have had issues with IOMMU groups and the BIOS not fully utilizing the CPUs VT-d feature.

windirstat - google it and it'll show you what's eating your gigabytes

you would only need to put in an m.2 once and everything in the computer gets dusty, idk what i suggested in usually what i do for my PC, I reintstall windows occasionally as the registry gets fragmented as you install and uninstall apps and everything seems to run nicer with a fresh install, hitting the inside of your pc with compressed air every 3 months is also a good practice, though not always necessary.  

true enough, but again boot time doesn't matter all that much, I suggest a fresh install of Windows every year or so and to keep startup items to a min, keep fast boot on in the UEFI/BIOS and eventually upgrade to an NVMe SSD if you want sub 10 sec boots, otherwise who really cares, then again I rarely turn off my . computer, just occasionally reboot to switch which operating system im running.

ram heatsinks are mostly for aesthetic purposes, so pick the one that has better looks and or is cheaper. doesn't really matter.

The GTX 1060 will fit just fine in that case and motherboard.
 
If I were you, I'd buy a new PSU like a CX450m, the one you already have is a piece of garbage. 
 
And don't add such big spaces between sentences, it's confusing. 

if the wired connection is not working, try running a speed test in the xbox one settings and see if it mentions an ip confllicts or an error with NAT.  What type of router are you using?  Have you tried another ethernet cable?

It is not two GPUs that you need but two PCI x16 slots,  most ATX boards have that, Though look in settings becuase that will usually drop you to PCIe x8 and x8 for the cards (which is fine).  Most consumer grade GPUs only have 16 total processor threads,  look up x58 or x79 boards and see if there is anything is your price range.  Let me know what you're looking to spend and I'll see what I can find.  Also the 1060 is not SLI compatible and is likely being bottlenecked by the G4560.  One 1060 is more than adequate, imho

i dont know if there is a way without disabling the sensor that recognizes if the lid is open or closed and then soldering a separate power button from the contact the regular power button is connected to inside the pc.  Most of the time if I have my laptop attached a tv I just open it up and change the graphics settings to disable the main monitor when an external one is plugged in.

Yeah you could get an i3 hyperthreading or i5 7600 or something like that. You could also maybe overclock your ram but I dont know if that mobo allows overclocking. And the hdd might be too slow.

not enough ram is my first suspicion.  upgrade to 8gb asap, as well as an SSD.  The processor is also very much at the bottom of the spectrum.  GTA V is very processor and video card dependent.  A 1050ti will play those games fine, but the platform its on needs some upgrades.

not enough ram is my first suspicion.  upgrade to 8gb asap, as well as an SSD.  The processor is also very much at the bottom of the spectrum.  GTA V is very processor and video card dependent.  A 1050ti will play those games fine, but the platform its on needs some upgrades.

Pick me up in Los Angeles,  I'll just be waiting on the corner

Sorry about the lightning strike frying your PC, but I have to chime in and say buy a lotto ticket.  You know cause of probability and stuff.  Lightning strike= Powerball winner, every time! 

I would get a Ryzen 1600 instead because the stock cooler that comes with it is pretty good and you don't need to buy a new cooler.
You can buy Windows 10 keys from sites like Ebay but they aren't always guaranteed to work.
MSI isn't great with over clocking for Ryzen chips. Go ASrock Pro 4 AB350 mobo
Ryzen is ram dependent so with the money you save by not buying a 1600X and a cooler, buy 16 gigs of ram at 2933mhz or higher, though 2666 is also fine but you it won't be as fast. Also get the ssd AND a hard drive to store games and files.

it won't work so go right ahead

Pick me up in Los Angeles,  I'll just be waiting on the corner

It is essentially a 1070 so would you pay 400 for a slightly older used 1070? I would say it's a toss up as most gpus are way overpriced atm so it's not that bad of a deal all things considered. Might also want to think about how the next gen gpus are coming out within the coming months most likely.