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SlightlyIntelligent

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  1. ^ It did occur to me as an option. I have programs installed on this drive, and was wondering what would happen to them if I did this? (as In, things pointing to the wrong location and drive letter shenanigans)
  2. Hi, Thinking of upgrading my second drive and was wondering what actually is the right way of performing the disk clone? The cloning software from the new drive manufacturer is only intended to operate on Boot drives, so what can I use in my case? If it helps: I'd be going from a WD Green 2TB to a Samsung QVO 2TB. Thanks!
  3. The switches arrived quite early (one week from order rather than the expected one month), so I've started desoldering the original switches, getting about halfway in one sitting. The early arrival has rather hurried my need for advice. If you have any experience using Plasti Dip, please do read my questions in the first post, it would be much appreciated!
  4. I've been considering switching the key switches on my Corsair K60 for a while now. I'm not too fussed about the claims of gaming performance of MX Red switches, and I'd prefer a better typing experience. I decided to go with a Blue switch and chose Gateron over Cherry switches for the simple fact that I got them at the price of 10 for £1 on a slow shipment from China. (I'm taking maintenance into my own hands at this point, so reliability isn't too much of a worry) I ordered two Gateron green switches from a UK seller, so I could quickly test a key switch swap. An old post on the Corsair forums helped me remove the approximately 4000 screws required to open the keyboard, and was greeted with this: The k60 used membrane keys for the function and home keys, the flat-flex cable for which looks like it could be removed from its socket, but probably not placed back in afterwards. I therefore just manoeuvred the cable out of the way whilst I was desoldering the enter key switch. The switches are held onto the plate by small plastic clips on the underside; they aren't accessible, so I used some pliers to pull them out with a reasonable amount of force. The key switch swap worked fine, so I've now ordered the full set of switches, which should arrive within the next fortnight. I currently have the green switches under the space bar and enter key, though the space key feels too heavy, so I suspect I shall change to enter and backspace when I do the full swap. Some observations: The PCB seems to be a standard part and has holes for PCB mounted cherry switches, even though this keyboard uses plate mounted switches. The PCB also has mounting holes for LEDs, and the flat-flex has an unused button where the LED control button would be on a Corsair keyboard. It might be possible to add LED lighting to these keyboards. The flat flex cable is held up by plastic posts on the bottom piece of the keyboard. If you filed down those posts, you could fit a custom-made PCB, and probably convert the keyboard to fully mechanical. Prototype PCB services are crazy expensive.
  5. Looks awesome so far, the silver paint really makes those internal parts look clean. Shame about those battered side panels, they look like they'll be a pain to restore. What are you planning to do with them?
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