Changis

Agreed. My 1080ti had mad coil whine when i got it, but now there is nothing, so it might get better over time

ext3/4 formatted? HFS+? AFS? where did you buy them? have you used them for anything before this? why are you using diskpart? do they not show up in disk manager?

unfortunately, you most likely pasted this from another post without removing formatting, resulting in the text being near invisible for night theme users.. this is how night theme users see it (image may be magnified from original post by the browser, making it slightly easier to read, for full effect, view in a window made as small as possible without cropping the image to remove any magnification)

you won't get a RMA approved if you have damaged the unit yourself. RMA is in a very crude term, basically warranty. if the pump died suddenly from normal use, that's a RMA claim. you could run the system outside the case in a bucket to see if it leaks, though i would just replace it if i were you as the risk of a leak developing over time is likely

do the drives get cooling? are they located in a place that can vibrate? are they dampened around the fastening points?

after a quick google search, i found this thread someone had a similar issue with the same file and error message only with a different program. solution:

uninstall it completely, maybe find a removal tool on aviras site, and scan your computer with another antivirus just to be sure it hasn't somehow gotten infected. reinstall i afterwards and see if it works now.. also, a disk scan might be advisable to see if it's bad blocks/sectors that's causing issues.. if all else fails, you can try this, but it's a bit more involved

see if you can uninstall it completely and scan your computer using microsoft defender. if you are on windows 10, defender is built in and uses little resources and updates with the rest of your computer, it's also one of the better antivirus programs, and it's 100% free

does your class have any hardware requirements? by coincidence i just searched for cheap i3 laptops, and the Pavilion X360 popped up.. "speed" that's pretty vague.. disk read speeds? processing speeds? also, the more powerful cpu, the more power it consumes, so that is also a thing to consider.. i would go on a price comparison site and sort laptops a tiny bit over your budget (like $10-$20) and go from the most expensive and downwards and compare the ones you liked the most.. that should net you the best laptop for your money

if you have auto sign in, can i assume you are the only user of this computer? if so, just remove the other user accounts.. also, you could: turn on pc, go get coffee, enter you pin, and take a sip or two while it logs in you could also try a windows 10 refresh (backup first)

that's true.. what i meant was partition, but simplifed it.

did you use a program or anything to disable the sign-in? do you mean auto sign in? if so have you changed your microsoft account password? you should have atleast a pin on your computer.. it takes 1-2 seconds to enter a pin but security is not as compromized.. especially using a microsoft account

you have to reinstall windows.. your computer should have a windows key on it, you can download windows 10 media creation kit on another computer and transfer it to a usb or dvd and reinstall windows on your computer you can't have 2 operating systems on the same disk, ubuntu would have warned you that all files on the disk would be permanently deleted when you formatted it to install ubuntu instead. microsoft can't recover any of your files, but they can get your original windows reinstalled, most likely by charging a fee for a dvd/usb copy of windows sent to you. don't rush, pay attention, and do research before you start.. that way you can avoid things like this in the future

how is it connected? does it tear if you run at 1080? have you tried DDU and reinstalling drivers from a fresh download?

yes and no.. some games might display differently, but you can change dpi scaling options for programs in the properties -> compatability.. i have to do this for some games, otherwise they become magnified and you only see part of the screen. videos should render without any problems.. the player might become enlarged though, but this is the same for many programs, again fix it with the above mentioned fix i've added a screenshot of the compatability tab in a application file's properties, play around with the dpi scaling settings to see what works best for your programs, you can't mess anything up.

it sounds like it's not getting enough power.. trying to start and failing versus working fine on a computer excerpt from the manual: (emphasis mine) a NAS (or Network-attached storage) is basically a simple pc running 2 or more harddrives available on your network as network shares. some NAS also have the option of transcoding video for plex for instance. my brother has a top range model samsung tv, and it supports network shares so he can watch videos from his computer directly on the tv. it seems like a function that would be in the typical samsung smart tv OS, though yours might not have that option. also, as an alternative, you could get a raspberry pi and run kodi on it, though not sure how well it does with 4k... but a cheapo NUC or something running kodi should work just fine as well, though it is an extra cost. but you can get a very slick kiosk look out of it, like your own personalized on demand netflix

i can't guarantee anything without a proper inspection i'm afraid.. does the hard drive spin up when you plug it in? (does it make a sound?) if it does, it's getting power but your tv doesn't recognize it.. if it doesn't make any sound, then it isn't getting enough power (assuming it works normally with a computer) it may also be that your tv just doesn't support harddrives.. your manual will specify this and also what filesystems it accepts.. have you thought about using a nas or share to just stream the content to the tv over the network?

a pendrive draws very little power,and your phone powers itself.. most likely your hdd is not getting enough power so it doesnt spin up. try getting a y cable so you can use 2 usb outputs to power it..

most likely lack of power.. are you sure it delivers 1a? and is your cable and extender rated for atleast 1a?

don't double post..

your motherboard manual shoul detail how to reset bios, but the 100% works every time method is turn off powersupply (or unplug if there is no power button on the PSU), then remove the battery on your motherboard (the thing that looks like a shiny coin) and hold down the power button for 30-60 seconds or atleast 5-10 seconds after all lights have turned off, then reinsert battery and turn on (plug back in) the PSU and start your computer.. how old is your build? psu? does it start without the gpu connected?

one extra year isn't worth it if warranty handling is worse in my opinion.. do you mind the program sending data back to the manufacturer (or somewhere)? again, ultimately, you should choose yourself.. looks are very subjective, and you might end up disagreeing with our suggestions after the fact.. both will get the job done more or less the same. you can also follow this wenn diagram i made

so it boils down to is a fancy waterblock and led strip control worth it over better warranty handling and integration options?

does the EVGA have features or better cooling or better software? if you already use other NZXT parts, is it worth anything to you that everything can be controlled/monitored from a single program? does one have better warranty than the other?

ultimately, questions like these are best answered yourself.. i could say it was worth it, you buy it and start to regret it because you didn't think it was worth it after all.. looks are subjective. i personally also don't really like thge design on the fans of the EVGA one.. mostly because it looks like the walls have been cut and it looks nothing like my other fans in my build.. then again, changing fans are fairly cheap, but still an extra cost