Dr.PC.Repair

An 80+ certified bronze 500w should be fine for 375w - but I personally would install minimum 550w but would feel better installing a 650w. I don't want PC's I build to fail after a year because I used a low wattage PSU to save $15 for the customer. The higher the rated PSU you install the longer it should in theory last you - as it's almost about 97% of the time heat that kills a PSU. The less you stress the PSU the cooler it will run. The higher the PSU wattage - the bigger the heatsinks it has inside the more ability it has to keep cool and run longer.

Just a quick note on how to prolong your PSU's life span. If your PC requires 472w and you use a 500w PSU thinking that should do... you'll end up having to replace the PSU after a few months to a year. You should typically use a much higher PSU than you need to ensure that the PSU runs at about 60% of the max rated wattage at all times... running at 80-95% load at all times keeps the PSU in a stressed state and it will run super hot this heat will slowly damage the components inside the PSU... and the PSU will fail. I always recommend about 150- 200w over what you need. For example if your PC requires ~500w then using a 750 watt is best. If your PC requires ~600w then using an 850w is best.. if your PC requires ~800w then using a 1000w is best... and so on. There are many PSU wattage calculators out there use Google to search PSU wattage calculator (Newegg also has one on their site as well) so find out your basic wattage requirements then get a PSU based on the outline above. Please note I repair PSU's among other components thus I know how heat kills them - and high heat is caused by pushing the PSU too close to 100% of it's max load while running the PC. For example keeping the draw at around 500-600w on an 850w PSU is ok... but keeping the draw at 750-800 on and 850w is going to kill it from heat in a few months to a year. (possibly killing other components in the process)

That WiFi card uses a 1x/4x PCIe slot. It sounds like you have installed the WiFi card in a shared PCIe slot that is shared with the PCIe slot your videocard is using. Move the WiFi card into another PCIe 1x slot and try to boot again.

When a fan runs at different speeds it causes the fan blades to slightly move in and or move out of the fan housing. Like when you press the fan by hand it moves in then hits a limit then when you let go it pops back into place. The ticking heard is not normal... but listening to it it's nothing to worry about unless it gets louder. However If it was my PC and GPU I'd take the card out and inspect the fan. Again look inside the fan area behind the fan blades to see if you can see the fan wires - and see if they are possibly in the way of the fan blades. If they are push them back down out of the way.. Also while the card is out if you don't see the fan wires are in the way try pushing the fan blades in from the center (not pushing on the blades themselves) While doing this also try spinning the fan to make sure it spins freely and does not stop quickly after giving it a spin. Pulling the card out like this and just checking the fan out may cause the noise to stop.

Possible reason the TV does not work is that some TV's do not support lower resolutions such as 640x480 or 640x400 - which is typically the boot/post resolution of a PC. If you set your Windows to a resolution that the 1st TV actually supports then you can boot the PC up on that TV and wait for it to load... once it reaches Windows log in screen and sets the resolution the TV supports the display should come on. So you should be able to use your first preferred TV so long as you don't mind the long blank screen wait.

Typically the most influential component when going up in resolution to 4K is the video card and making sure it has 8-16GB of on board video ram is key. HOWEVER not all cards have the same memory bus width. 128bit is not gong to work well no matter how much ram it has. You need to find a min of 256Bit and recommend 384bit and 512bit. Personally I stick with the HBM cards using 4096 Bit bus's. Also go with an "8" series card instead of a "7" such as the 5800 vrs the 5700 and or the 2080 vs the 2070. The 8 series cards are almost always the top tier. It also depends on the games your wanting to play in 4K as not all require as much CPU as others... however your current CPU seems quite adequate when looking at the passmark score (seen here : https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html ) it's right up there with some of the top CPU's. I'd say you need a new video card more than anything to achieve good frame rate 4K (and ask you if you've even tried to run 4K on your current rig? Looking at the specs it should technically be quite decent as is - only requiring perhaps as said a higher 8 series card to get better FPS - If you go with a better video card you will NEED a better PSU something around 850w to be safe - if your hardware only needs 573w for example then using a 600w psu will run the PSU at full potential and thus it will run super hot and will shorten its lifespan - running higher watts than you need means the PSU works less hard and thus runs much cooler - extending the PSU life and possibly causing it to never fail or die.)

Are you sure you have a 3600 and not a 3600X? The 3600 is a 65w CPU and the 3600X is a 95w CPU. Your might not have a strong enough PSU to boot a 95w CPU where as your previous CPU that works might be only a 65w. Also online PSU wattage calculators are only estimates - and so are most PSU ratings printed on the sides of PSU's. One brands rated 500w may not be equal to another brands....If you have access to your brothers PC see if you can try his PSU in your PC and try to boot with it.

Try uninstalling with DDU and go back to a previous version driver - you can find a number of previous versions here. https://www.amd.com/en/support/previous-drivers/graphics/radeon-500-series/radeon-rx-500-series/radeon-rx-580 To narrow it down 1st try the oldest driver on that page... if it works then try one of the more recent drivers avoiding the new one that does not work until you find the newest driver that works with your card.

Try re-seating the video card in the slot. Also have you tried using another HDMI port on the back of the card? And If you have a monitor that supports Display Port see if it posts on that.

What are the temperatures that your video card is running at? It's possible that the card could have an issue with the heatsink not being seated correctly (possibly from being damaged in shipping etc) if the card is running too hot the drivers will underclock the card. Check your temps and get back...

In the future I'd suggest plugging your PC into another outlet to avoid damaging the new one. It sounds like you have too many other electronics running off the same breaker. Such as a TV monitor stereo etc... Try finding another outlet on a different breaker. ALSO I HIGHLY recommend using an ESP Power filter (Transient Voltage Suppressor) *especially if you are living in an Apartment. Like these https://www.amazon.ca/ESP-Digital-Surge-Protector-Filter/dp/B00I3HLPII ---> HOWEVER you can find them used on Ebay for MUCH cheaper all you need to do is search "ESP QC" and there are lots for cheap. They will prevent this from happening to your PSU ever again! I personally don't plug any electronics directly into the wall without an ESP filter.

It sounds like something is stuck in the fan... possibly a cable? Take a look at the fan make sure there are no cables bumping into the fan. If there are no cables and nothing visibly in the fan then try this: With the power off try pushing the fan "in" or rather "up" while turning it a bit bump it up and down a few time don't worry about being delicate (well don't smash it so hard as to bend the card or anything) But it could just be that the fan blades are slightly off center with the fan pin/axle thus causing it to ever so slightly spin crooked which could be hitting the heatsink - if you give it a but of a push in and out it should fix this if it's just slightly off in it's balance. Another thing you might also want to look at....sometimes the video cards fans power cable can be installed with a slight kink in the line - causing it to rise up enough to get in the way of the fan blades path. To check this you will have to take the card out and look behind the fan blades to locate the typically green or black wires going to the fan and see if they are raised up a slight amount... if they are find something like a pin or q-tip to push them back down so they are clear of the fan blades path.

You most likely need a better CPU heatsink. Turbo boost frequencies are only achievable when a CPU can operate under it's throttling temperatures. If it's too hot it will not attempt to boost frequencies and might actually under-clock your CPU. You might also try re-pasting and or re-seating your heat sink. (Alternatively it could also be that your Power Supply does not have enough wattage) but that's not as likely as temperatures to cause turbo boost to not attempt to boost clock rates. EDIT: It could also be due to RAM clock rates check you CPU temps if they are relatively low then please include your RAM frequencies/Info and we can look at RAM speeds as a possible culprit.

While I realize this is an older post I am currently trying to repair one of these PSU's but one of the ceramic capacitors was damaged so I cannot read the value/rating. I was just wondering if you still had this PSU would be so kind as to take a pic of the inside of this PSU? I understand it might also be a lot of effort to pull a PSU out of a working PC so - no worries if your not willing. Also I know it might be a bit difficult to get an actual photo the side of the capacitor. Either way if you happen to be able to do this it's the ceramic capacitor that is located at the line in area next to the fuse on the PCB. Typically they are blue or brownish in color but I can't tell what color the one inside this PSU was as it has turned black from a transient voltage spike. If you can't take a photo then perhaps you could alternatively write down the numbers/letters written on it? It's about the size of a coin. Like these