Ja50n

Boost performance on a phone, you’re a cheat. Boost performance on a PC, you’re an enthusiast overclocker

You can replace the cables with ones of different lengths, different colors, etc.

I heated my room with mining last winter. It was either that or put that electricity through my space heater, and that wouldn’t make any money...

4 of the 10 titles got to 2x only by using the Upscaled 4K of DLSS (a cheat), and only 3 managed 1.5x without it. Nvidia claiming 2x with that poor of a showing makes me very worried for the real performance of the twice-the-price hardware...

I like the old flagship approach, I just upgraded from my Galaxy S5 to a new S7 for $260, it’s pretty great. Either of those phones should serve you well, I tend to shop for the phone with the least annoyances. For me that meant no more used OLEDs, Optical Image Stabilization and a fast camera with good low light was a must, fast or at least accurate fingerprint sensor, and performance good enough not to lag in Maps or web browsing, which seem to test the phone the most. Personally I’d go with the LG for its faster performance and better screen. An older phone usually has a more established accessory market too.

A blower 970 is going to be loud, especially a refurb unit. EVGA replaced my dual-fan 970 with an exact model refurb, and it was noticeably louder... I wouldn’t buy used unless there were free returns, or I was able to test the card before buying.

The future is impossible to predict. New cards could launch in 2 months or 6, prices could stay the same or keep falling. As for right now, with what I’ve seen, $300 sounds like a good price for a 6GB 1060 if you need to upgrade right now. If you can wait another 6 months, though, there should be something superior out for the same money. 6 months is a long time to spend if your current card absolutely can’t handle the games you want to play, though...

It will still be 1020 balls before you can test your work, and then not fun tracking down a problem? DX

Keep in mind these projects usually cost way more than they’re worth, but it would be an interesting idea. I can’t help but think, though, that there will be PCB differences that prevent the upgrade from working, or maybe the memory chip ball grid array will be a different size. It’s worth investigating, but keep in mind there’s a migh degree of precision and an even higher degree of luck required to pull this off. Just check out Strange Parts’ 800% iPhone storage upgrade...

That's confusing to me, I'm not sure how it would work, with lowering quality to get more streams... I just always do the highest quality on a single stream and my i3-4130 has never had any trouble with it.

https://support.plex.tv/articles/201774043-what-kind-of-cpu-do-i-need-for-my-server/ Their site suggests even a Core 2 Duo should be fine. Just be sure you have enough RAM, minimum 8 with 16GB a more comfortable target. CPU power is mainly needed when transcoding, which “When used locally, Plex Home Theater and Plex Media Player almost never requires transcoding”, as it just sends the video in full size over your home network.

Any external drive as big as 8TB should do, just watch out and make sure it has no additional ports, just the one USB and power. I use a 1TB mobile USB3 drive and it works just fine.

Just about any decent USB 3 hard drive will do, but make sure it doesn’t have a built in USB hub. I made the mistake of buying a drive with two extra USB ports on the front, and the PS4 sees it, but refuses to use it. This does also mean you’ll be permanently tying up one of the USB ports on the console...

Do you have any evidence of this, or any links you could provide? As I understand it, the solder basically bonds the die to the heart spreader, and remains stable until heated to a temp like 350c, well out of the range a CPU is expected to operate at. The only reason I’ve seen for not using solder is cost, as it’s been shown to function within margin of error of liquid metal, and 20c cooler than Intel’s TIM.

It’s important for it to be liquid because it is able to fill much more of the air pockets then. Thermal pastes generally degrade over time because they’ve dried out, and so air is now in place of where material used to be. Not to mention, a material that’s only liquid over water’s boiling point would be very difficult to apply... Better to look for superior containment methods for liquid metal.

Power saver is more likely to cause this than High performance. If anything is the cause, it would be a lack of power to your CPU.

Sounds like BCLK is running a bit under 100, it bugged me at first so I set mine to 102, but then stopped caring and ran it at stock. Your other option is to set the multiplier up a bit higher, mine goes in increments of 0.25... On the other hand, have you checked for BIOS updates? Maybe there is a bug in the board that’s been fixed since the last time.

What are you using to monitor clock speed? Some apps are better than others... CPU-Z stays rock solid at 3.8 on my 1700, while Task Manager fluctuates all the way down to 3.4

If you hound Amazon constantly you can get a deal, two days ago I found a GTX 1080 on Amazon for a $550 pre-order, but it was gone 30 minutes later.

That may be, but the best B350 for OC is probably only a match for the average X370 board, if that. Even when the cooling is sufficient, they don’t have enough power phases to make a high OC stable, like every X370 board can do... the best thing that GN could say about B350 for OC was “Of the terrible VRMs, [the Fatal1ty AB350 K4] is the least terrible”, so if you want to push Ryzen to the limit, get an X370 board, and look through the board’s QVL to find a set of RAM that can run at 2933 or 3200 MHz in the stick quantity and capacity config you want. If you just want a budget low/no OC machine, go for a cheaper cooler, because you won’t come close to needing that level of watercooling. The stock AMD cooler nearly managed my 3.8GHz 8 core overclock, after all!

X370 boards with substantial VRM heatsinks (the ones surrounding the socket) and good reviews. Even with a fan directly on my VRMs, I don’t have enough power phases in my B350 to make anything over 3.8 stable. Many B350 boards have no heatsinks at all D:

Keep in mind you will struggle to find graphics cards at reasonable prices right now... also an H100i is a bit overkill for your system, that Ryzen part will run pretty cool, and B350 boards don’t typically overclock well. My R7 1700 runs at a max of around 65c with a 3.8GHz OC on a Hyper 212 air cooler.

All cards are in short supply at the moment, with inflated prices, likely due to crypto mining.

Actually that makes the analyst completely wrong, because Nvidia’s Tegra ARM chips likely are vulnerable, as are all other ARM chips.