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XxDEATHB3TCHxX

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    No_One
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    RaPiDKiller84

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 4790K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 3
  • RAM
    G-Skull & Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR3 2400MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom 530
  • Storage
    8TB Seagate Gaming External HDD, 3TB Seagate External Expansion HDD
  • PSU
    Aerocool XPredator 1000W Gold
  • Sound
    Creative Sound Blaster Z (5.1)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. Well apparently, Corsair replied today, saying this AIO does not have a warranty despite being purchased last year, even though I had attached the receipt to them... Alongside with it, are several troubleshooting questions etc. I don't even know what to say, but I'm going to avoid Corsair completely if this doesn't get solved.
  2. Did you check your CPU socket pins to see if any pins were bent? Other than that, my bet is the mobo is faulty and is the reason behind your PC turning on split second. RMA it - which might take some time because as you know of the pandemic. Good luck.
  3. So the Liquid Freezer II came and I installed it, was a little pain to install it. The performance is similar to how H100i first operated. Although H100i performed tiny bit better with temperatures but nevertheless I can now overclock at 4.7GHz. Using OCCT to stress test the cpu raises the temps to stable low 80s which I’m fine with as normal 100% CPU usage reaches 70C in temperature. And finally, no more rattle sound in my PC. Seems like the H100i caused this, what I’m not sure is if it’s the fan or the pump. Corsair still hasn’t responded to my RMA request for a week now. I need this defective unit to be replaced. I understand the pandemic has cause problems and challenges with companies & manufacturers but I feel like my RMA ticket is completely ignored.
  4. This has happened to my last motherboard. It ended up being faulty. The reasons were unknown so I had to buy a replacement motherboard. Eventually the PC wouldn’t power up for a split second anymore. Did you try clearing the CMOS? There’s usually two ways of doing this: 1. There are two shortage pins nearby the circular battery on the motherboard, short it out using a screwdriver to reset the BIOS configuration. 2. Remove the battery from the motherboard for about 10-15 seconds and place it back in. If that don’t work, then remove all memory/RAM modules/sticks apart from one and see if it’ll turn on.
  5. Yeah I agree. I only used 212 Evo for the time being since, as we all know, stock coolers are trash. I seen the reviews the cooler had, so I thought I gave it a try. The cooler helped with stock clocks temperature but didn’t when I overclocked. Or in fact whenever I use RPCS3 emulator. Thats when H100i came into play, the cooler is awesome, when it works. 4.7GHz - even with Adaptive + Offset (?) VCore setting on (no manual vcore) the AIO managed to keep mid-70s at max CPU usage. At idle, it would rock at approx mid-to high 30s. The new AIO is coming tomorrow and I can’t wait to use my PC without any worries. I still don’t understand what’s up with this H100i. Edit: The rattling sound is definitely is coming from the AIO, but I can’t find what part of it that is making the sound. Sounds like it’s the radiator making the sound.
  6. So I ended up getting Arctic Liquid Freezer II for now since its very boring without my PC to use. The current H100i is quickly deteriorating. Now at idle the CPU goes at 71-99C whereas before it’ll idle around 50C (however the temperature still increases rapidly when playing games). Still got no replies from Corsair for my RMA ticket for my H100i (today is the fourth business day).
  7. Because this AIO helped the temperatures of the CPU a lot. I used 212 Evo air cooler, it was good for the time being but compared to this AIO, the temperatures were marginally better. That is the sole reason why I switched.
  8. What do you suggest that I do? I don't have any experience in custom water loops and such, and I'm afraid to do that since it's water that I'm dealing with. Don't want any leakages or mistakes that could cost me more.
  9. Well that sucks then. I’ll update you guys when the RMA happens and the replacement has arrived and installed. EDIT: I wiggled the tubes around slightly, maybe lightly pressed them. It sort of helped the temperatures but they're still too high. However Windows will now give me WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR BSOD if the CPU reaches 99C.
  10. I’ve opened an RMA case with Corsair right now. I was thinking that too. When I first mounted this AIO up (I did a noob mistake and didn’t mount the backplate on properly) it still gave me decent temperatures. Now it’s like someone added petrol on my CPU and lit it up with a match.
  11. Hey everyone, You most likely would remember my previous threads more than a year ago about my 4790K overheating. However with Corsair H100i cooled the CPU down drastically that I could OC to 4.7GHz with mid 70C degrees temp at Max CPU usage until today. Two weeks ago I realised my computer would shut down at midnight when I leave my PC to download steam games. Turning my PC back on into the BIOS running the CPU at 100C degrees. One of the pipes is boiling hot whereas the other isn’t warm but cool. I’m in a pickle now, I can’t use my computer without feeling cautious on the temperatures. At idle, the CPU temps are 41-49C, it’s when the CPU usage increases drastically that’s when the temperature goes haywire. Also I found out recently that the pump or the fan is making this rattling sound that is annoying as the room and the computer is usually quiet. i7 4790K GTX 1080 (GIGABYTE) 32GB 2400MHz Corsair Vengence and G.Skill 1000w gold Aerocool Xpredator MSI Z97X Gaming 5 I have remounted the damn thing 2-3 times today, the thermal paste wire off quickly (the thermal paste was reapplied two weeks ago)
  12. I’d only use Sleep mode if I had HDD, as I’d understand that cold booting into Windows can take some time and if I had some important apps opened or some work that I needed to do but need to go to sleep at night.
  13. Unlikely but it could be a GPU driver problem? Did you try re-installing GPU drivers?
  14. I would recommend installing chipset drivers, gpu drivers, network drivers, audio drivers from the motherboard manufacturer site, from there, manually search each driver up (for example if we're installing audio driver for onboard audio, and you've installed it from the motherboard manufacturer's website, search it up on google to see if you can find the latest one.) I had that same BSOD many times, and for me it was always driver incompatibility. Always avoid driver updater software if you use them.
  15. So this is kind of destroying my brain cells at the moment. The problem is this: My computer crashes, BSOD shows up, however it's always stuck at 0% Completed, no matter if I changed what type of dump it is, like Kernel Memory Dump, Complete Memory Dump, Active Memory Dump, IT WOULD NOT RESTART (very few times it does, quick restart after showing the BSOD for a splitsecond), so I have to manually restart it (my PC case has a small reset button.). Now, in some case, after pressing the reset button, the PC will shut down, then boot back up, in most cases it would restart as normal, without shutting down (you can tell it shuts down because the fans dies out and all the LED fades out then booms back in). Windows loaded as normal, going to event viewer states the following: Dump file creation failed due to error during dump creation. Event ID: 161 (Always the same). Now, I do overclock, and yes there were some BSODs related to that and putting XMP profile on when CPU overclocking (oddly most time it works without issue, few times when playing intense poorly optimised games like Black Ops 4 will initiate crashes related to RAM like memory_management). My Pagefile is set on a WHOOPING 64GB right now. You ask why? It's to be sure it ain't Pagefile issue. So I had another BSOD, this time with the following: IRQL_UNEXPECTED_VALUE Caused By: ndis.sys? Apparently it is a windows network driver. ^This might have been fixed, not sure yet. But crash dump creating issue hasn't been fixed. I swapped motherboard from the old gigabyte z97 gaming 3 (regardless, it was going to be swapped out due to it being busted, to msi z97 gaming 5, I swapped out the 4tb sshd which got busted, then used 8tb hdd which turned out to be SMR *facepalm*, now I'm using Samsung Evo 860 1TB SSD, using the latest firmware for the SSD. But still not a single difference it made to the problem. The reason why I need the crash dumps is because if there's a BSOD that I don't know what could be causing it, crash dumps helps a lot. This problem has persisted since the build of this PC till now. My PC Specs: Intel Core i7 4790K @ 4.8GHz (w/ H100i Liquid Cooler) GTX 1080 G1 Gaming 32GB G-Skill & Corsair Vengeance 2400MHz DDR3 (Currently running 1600MHz) MSI Z97 Gaming 5 Motherboard AeroCool X99 Predator Gold 1000w PSU (Heard some bad things about this PSU) Samsung Evo 860 1TB Sound Blaster Z NXZT Hue+ Things I've tried: -SFC /Scannow - Nothing has been violated. -CHKDSK - Drive is healthy. -DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth - Successful but no help to the issue. -Changing dump type from all options like Automatic Memory Dump, Kernel Memory Dump, etc. -Changing the pagefile size from system managed to 64gb. -Set BIOS to default and used WhoCrashed to purposely initiate a BSOD.
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