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It's sad - but their target market for this phone are folks who usually don't know/care about 5Ghz. So they can get away with taking away features so they can make more money. At first I assumed it was because it was a super cheap phone - but its actually not, and cheaper phones have 5GHz.

If its 2.4 GHz, you could use a Ubiquity Nanostation Loco M2, or Loco M5 if its 5GHz. These are directional units that can behave as access points or clients. When in client/station mode - it connects wirelessly and bridges that to the ethernet connection which you can then plug directly into your computer - or - into another router's WAN port. I am doing that right now with decent success, when without it I do not even see the network I'm connecting to:

Either is fine. Towers can sometimes provide a fuller sound through the use of larger woofers than most bookshelf speakers have - but since you have a subwoofer in the mix, that's not as big of a concern, IMO. Otherwise you would go with tower speakers if you would be installing into a large room, you always have the volume maxed and still want it louder, or you just have the money to spend. What I would consider to be more of a concern, is trying to match the sound signature of the center with the front left and right. In this case, that would be some Polk TSi 200s for bookshelves ($300 pair), or TSi 400 or 500 towers ($300+ each)

Are smart home videos coming in the future? Having a house-like set is just asking to be outfitted with all the smart home gadgets. First thing that really caught my eye was the thermostat, or rather, how the thermostat was not a Nest thermostat.

Hey All, I will be heading overseas to the middle of nowhere Madagascar in January. I have had an LG G watch for a couple years, but no longer have/use it (its in storage across the country). I'd like the option of a smartwatch, but need something that I can turn off the smartwatch features to get several days (at least) of time-telling out of it if I know that I will be heading out into no-power zones. What is out there that can get several days (easily) battery life if I kill the smartwatch features and just use it as a watch?

Hey All, I am looking for a cheaper bluetooth speaker that comes with a remote. Either an actual remote, or ability to connect to phone to control. Yes, I realize that when connecting via bluetooth to my phone, I can change my phone's volume - but that is not what I am looking for. I want a portable solution to use while traveling and in minimal setups. For example, connecting my FireTV to a monitor or TV via HDMI, and connecting the FireTV to speaker via bluetooth. I would prefer not to have to get up constantly to adjust volume when connected to devices that cannot adjust the volume themselves. Any reccomendations? I want to keep it under $50 and small-ish in size for throwing into a backpack.

I caved and ended up with another G502. It was on sale for $50 and I had a $20 gift card to Best Buy. So, for $30... I tried all the other mice on display, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries. And unfortunately none had the feel of the 502 (Specifically the thumb rest - I've come to love having a thumb rest because my grip has my thumb on the mousepad dragging otherwise). The MX Master is great, but, a bit big and heavy for me - not to mention $70 more than what I paid for the 502. ::Sigh:: Bestbuy has a great return policy, I have flat out told them in the past with other peripherals "I used this for a few days and didn't like it" and they take it back no problems. If logitech support ever gets back to me and I get a free mouse, I'll either return this one or give the free one to a relative. I also did the 2 year replacement plan with them for $5. At least now, if it breaks, I can forget about Logitech support and return to best buy (I have had good luck with their plan in the past).

Yeah. At this point I'm likely gonna head to the store and buy something from Corsair or razer. Pretty much done with Logitech at this point - sad since I have used logitech mice for the last 20 years.

HAH, If you go onto the Reddit sub-forums, quite a few people who have waited weeks for reply.

Well, I have tried on another computer (that I have never used this mouse with before) and the same behavior happened. True. However, yeah, I do use Side Scroll. I already sent another after 4 days asking when I can expect to hear back. And now here it is a day later and still no reply. I understand busy support - I myself am a support person that deals with a customer base several thousand large - with the help of a dozen others - but we still get back to our customers within a few hours. At most a day.

Most UPS are not designed to be used "through a power outage". Most consumer units are designed to give you enough time to gracefully shut down your system (so, maybe 10 minutes). Otherwise, your best bet will be something from APC or Cyberpower. I'd reccomend at least 1000VA, preferrably their largest consumer ones, which are (I think) 1500va. https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU This will give you ~20 minutes, maybe, to shut down your systems. Once your systems are shut down, it could probably run your networking for a couple hours as well. The other thing to think about, is auto shutdown. Each of these can control one system via USB cable, to tell the system to shut down. So, you may need to get two.

Hi All, Curious if this is a known issue. On my G502 Proteus Core, when I have the free-spin scroll wheel lock engaged (so, its clicky, not freespinning). The computer thinks I am side scrolling. Webpages auto scroll to the left, cannot use drop downs, Excel is a nightmare, etc. When I have the lock disengaged (wheel freespinning) it works fine. I submitted a support request 3-4 days ago and have not heard back from Logitech (disappointing). Does anyone know if they would send me a new one if I cut the cable for the old one? I know Razer and others often do that. If I need to send it in and wait for repairs or something, I'm just gonna buy a new mouse....likely not a Logitech... as I need this mouse for work. (I do lots of scrolling and use the side buttons constantly).

Hah, yep, and then it was all downhill from there.... Maybe its because I suck at FPS on consoles, but I don't mind them as much when playing on xbox because its actually a challenge - but on PC, I just get bored of them super quick.

I remember playing the first Black ops, I think that's the last one I've played. The Zombie co-op modes were great. Thanks for the recommendation.

Agreed, which is why I purchased BF4 and Premium for both PC and Xbox (PC I think I preordered and have since put a few hundred hours into, and just purchased for xbox since it was $15). Unfortunately it has neither a good SP or any local Co-Op which Is why I posted this Yeah, I haven't played COD since the first Black Ops as I do prefer Battlefield for multiplayer. However I am looking for Singleplayer and local Co-Op, so BF1 (which I already have) doesn't help me there

Hey All, Currently COD Ghosts and COD Advanced Warfighter are on sale via Deals with Gold on Xbox. I'm thinking of picking one up. (both are around $20 for digital edition). Infinity can also be had for $20 for a physical copy. I'd really like a good couch-co-op game / single player shooter. But not sure which one is "best" for co-op (or in general) because I have 1. Always been a PC gamer until now, and 2. Haven't played COD since Black Ops 1. Or, maybe COD is the wrong choice for this? What other Co-Op FPS games are there that would be better (Other than Borderlands, Halo games, Or GOW series - all of which I already have).

I would do 1TB WD Blue 7200 or for lesser-used games, and then spend savings on 500GB SSD for games you often use. The speed difference between 5400 and 7200 for games is not that much. The real (very noticable) difference is when you start running games off an SSD. Or, yeah, just do 2TB black. (but still get an SSD for games someday....you will not regret it).

Hey All, in November my wife and I will be headed to Madagascar for a year. We will be trying to keep up with our photography as we are in madagascar, so, I need to figure out a backup plan. We will likely be in "ok" circumstances most of the time, but that's not guaranteed. (have slow internet most of the day, electricity most of the day), But of course cannot count on either. So, my idea was to purchase two 1TB (possibly 2TB) USB drives. One will be our daily computer/phone/camera backup drive, and one will be our backup of the backup drive (every couple days or so). This third drive will be kept on my person whenever possible as our "in case computers are stolen and the first backup drive is lost or damaged" drive. Thoughts? Reccomendations? Any way to improve this plan?

Awe, look at @Ithanul Spreading the ham radio love! Just posted this the other day on another topic, but, there are already Ham-Radio mesh networks already in existence, using modified Ubiquity (and other) equipment. Complete with servers and whatnot for weather, messaging, etc. Because we have frequency allocations in the GHz, we can utilize the commercially available gear for our needs. https://hamwan.org/ http://www.broadband-hamnet.org/ http://www.aredn.org/ Yeah, internet as we know it will cease to exist, until new backbones can be set up (I mean, there already are backups of backups... but still...). But it would be a long time until that's made available to civilians. But in addition, you also already have in existence GPS tracking systems that rely on nothing more than two radios with GPS. This is called APRS. With it you can see the location, direction, speed, etc of "nearby" operators. You also have messaging possible between operators using the same system. Nearby is very subject to terrain and existence of a digipeater. Because we do currently have internet, the internet is used to collect the information and put it on a pretty map: https://aprs.fi/#!lat=45.00590&lng=-93.43050

Keep it up. As you can tell, the technology and understanding you can gain from the Ham Radio hobby is immense and helpful. We actually use modified commercial 2.4GHz routers Linksys, Ubiquity, etc. Ham Radio has spectrum that overlaps with channels 1-6, which means we can use MUCH more power and larger antennas if desired to make these 2.4GHz links. Same story for 900MHz, 3.4GHz and 5.7GHz as well. http://hackaday.com/2016/07/02/ham-radio-wifi/ http://www.broadband-hamnet.org/ http://www.aredn.org/

Good luck on your test (KE7DUX here). Looking at the 600MHz bandplan, they have less than 17MHz bandwidth to work with. Most of the rest is used by the new 600MHz cellular systems.

Not necessarily, "600Mhz" spectrum is everything from 600 to 699 MHz. Tmobile's portion is between 617MHz and 698MHz. The fact the "max" is 25Mbps, is probably partially because that leaves less than 17Mhz of bandwidth for this usage. 2.4GHz wifi is 20+ Mhz for example, however that is capable of speeds beyond 25Mbps. The highest remaining DTV 600Mhz frequencies are Channel 36 (602-608MHz) and 37 (608-614MHz).

Hi All, In a few months my wife and I are headed to madagascar for a year. I hear that the cell coverage is very good, provided by Airtel, Orange and Telma. Looks like 3g or 3.75g is most common, with some 4g LTE popping up. Does anyone have any experience in this region as to what provider is "best", and if any unlocked GSM-Compatible phone would be compatible?

I forgot to mention a travel router. Because you never know when the 5Mbps Wifi is $30 a day, but the IP Phone's Ethernet connection is completely unsecured and unthrottled with 150mpbs service.

Yeah, anything with HDMI you can connect directly to the TV. If you are asking about audio, no, you won't be able to hook speakers directly to the PS4. Ideally you will need to do one of these: PS4/Cable Box/Blue Ray/ETC > HDMI Cable > A/V Reciever +Speakers > HDMI Cable > TV PS4/Cable Box/Blue Ray/ETC > HDMI Cable > Soundbar that has HDMI > HDMI Cable > TV PS4/Cable Box/Blue Ray/ETC > HDMI Cable > HDMI Extractor and creative speakers > HDMI Cable > TV PS4/Cable Box/Blue Ray/ETC > HDMI Cable > TV > RCA or Headphone cable > Soundbar PS4/Cable Box/Blue Ray/ETC > HDMI Cable > TV > RCA or Headphone cable > Splitter to creative speakers