serguzzle

They should be fine as long as they are on different channels. Think of them like graphics cards in SLI.

Being a teenager is stressful. Feeling like you're in the friendzone sucks. But for your best friend it probably sucks too. In my experience in that kind of position, when your best friend is interested in you as more than a friend that puts a lot of pressure on you. It's hard to deal with. My advice: let go of that. Take a step back. Try to have some good times totally segregated from romantic interest, just have fun. And let her know you appreciate her company, and you like your time together. Being friendzoned makes a lot of people super needy -- that's really not what you want to be. Take a step back and just communicate about your feelings, let her know how you feel, and try to make the best of your friendship as you can. If she's interested or she appreciates the openness, she'll let you know. It's really easy to get into one of those "the one that got away" situations if you're yearning after someone but never properly tell them how you feel, and never make the proper effort. Trust me, there's so much anxiety, but it's important to get around it. Being a teen was super stressful. But we all survive.

I didn't notice your speaker cables in the picture. Yeah, you'll want to connect red on the speaker to red on the amp, etc. for hooking things up. It'll have a left channel and a right channel on a stereo amp. There's a few things as a consumer to look at on a new amp. There's gonna be power, rated impedance, and the type of the amp. Rated impedance is not a huge deal since they're usually rated for 4-8 Ohm or so and most speakers you'll get are in that range. Headphone jacks are a bit of an extreme case because they're not made for something with such low impedance. Power delivery on them kind of sucks. Power and amp type are important. Everything budget, unless you find an old receiver, is probably going to be a class-D amp. This just means it uses a electronic transistor circuit doing pulsed-width modulation of the sound. You can usually find the frequency response for the transistors in the amps, and it's pretty representative of what you'll find. I would highly recommend looking at a used electronics store or even a general used goods store, because lots of people let go of their Yamaha etc. receivers that they used in home theater systems. That's a good way to score a class A/B amp, which uses more solid-state amplification and is usually better in its amplification response. They're less efficient, but not obscenely so. They are pretty big though. So, class-D amps built for your desktop or something like that. The cheapest one you'll find is a Lepy amp or something based on it. It'll look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A. Don't get that one. The volume potentiometer has a known issue where it shorts out to something else on the board and the device power-cycles forever. It's also pretty shitty altogether for signal amplification, very low power, like <10 W. From my personal experience (and I didn't delve into the super budget stuff for a really long time, I moved up to an SMSL SA50, which I got in the USA for $65. I could recommend the SA36, which is a tiny little 20 W amp that delivers like 12ish W. I like SMSL products a lot, although their high-power desktop amps have never worked well for me. Other than that, just look for something well-reviewed and don't get something based on the tripath architecture or something, or something that calls itself a class T amp. They're usually a copy of the Lepy base amp. I have two of those that I got years ago, sitting in my living room console as proof of my past mistakes.

For short testing purposes the jack nor thee speakers would probably be damaged -- but someone who doesn't know what they're doing could still damage something in the process, or just waste money damaging a cable they shouldn't be cutting, etc. because you're like "yeah dude just strip it and connect one to + one to -" and they don't know better than you. And here's the thing, to be totally blunt, you have no idea what you're talking about. 3.5 mm jacks are by definition headphone jacks: other common analog connectors you come across day-to-day are 1/4" jacks that go on guitars etc., 2.5 mm jacks that may go into headphones in removable cables, and RCA coaxial cables. The only reason your soundcard 3.5 mm cable can drive your speakers at all is because it's the same analog signal, just at a relatively low power. Amplifiers amplify the 3.5 mm analog signal and push them through 75 ohm cables, impedance-matched to speaker systems. But with a soundcard, the cables don't match: this induces electrical reflection at various nodes of the system, which can damage it over a long period of time. This is because the circuit is pushing power at a frequency up to 40 kHz, so while it isn't a radio system, it still has non-DC phenomena occurring. Speaker tolerances are pretty high so they should be fine, you're right, but the soundcard is a little more delicate. It's only egregious because 4 Ohm is an extremely low impedance for a soundcard. This discussion is a waste of time. @peibolrz get a speaker amp, bottom line.

Yeah, that's because you have pretty efficient huge ass pioneer speakers with a low impedance. Headphone jacks might be able to output 1.5 -- 2 W power. That's enough to make most speakers make some noise, although to get to reasonable listening volumes/appreciable headroom for entertainment on most speakers you need >10 W. The ports on the speakers and on the outputs of amps are impedance-matched so as to not damage the output circuits or the speakers themselves -- your 3.5mm cable jacks are absolutely not matched to them. Please... don't just recommend that people fuck with electronics in ways that have worked for you, when you're literally basing everything off your own experience, and aren't really sure how it works. People can get hurt that way or mess up their hardware for some reason. Real blind leading the blind situation. What you have are banana plug or speaker wire terminals on your speakers, because they're what's called passive speakers. You pump power into the terminals, which make the speakers produce the sound. Sound coming from a 3.5mm cable is analog signal, which means there's power in it as much as there's data -- but there's not a lot of power. So what you usually do is connect your 3.5mm cable, or RCAs (they're effectively equivalent, although RCA is better about signal loss), to a speaker amplifier. You can get them from as little as 20 bucks, although I'd strongly recommend against doing that -- you'll get something based off a Lepy amp at that price, which has issues with shorting potentiometers. For about 40 bucks you can get a great SMSL amp, plug your signal from your headphone jack on your phone or from your PC into it, and you can buy (or make your own) speaker cables (look up speaker wires) to connect the amp output to the speakers.

The 1080Ti is legitimately impressive hardware. You've doubled the load on your card and you're getting about the same performance -- yeah, sounds about right if you've got the starts of CPU bottlenecking there. I upgraded from 1070 SLI to one 1080Ti and at 3440:1440 I am getting both significantly higher performance on games, but significantly lower thermal loads on my system. My GTA V benchmarks showed a delta of roughly 10 FPS on each pass when I changed my cards around, and 15+ FPS on passes 3 and 4, and I managed ~70 FPS under totally max settings for 1440p UW. This sadly meant that I had to lower some of the extras to get a smooth 75 FPS for my XR342CK. Frame timings also decreased by 2-3 ms consistently. Playing Witcher 3, which is a little better about SLI, I still saw an increase of about 5-10 FPS during most loading scenarios -- likely due to thermals on one card being significantly better. Playing some less-optimized games like Secret World Legends, I achieved notably less stutter at max settings. Comparing it to the 1070, which is in of itself a tremendous card? The 1080Ti is insane, I have benchmarks from my original 1070 and we're talking over 2x performance in GTA V. Comparing it to two 1070s? Still a notable bump in performance. Now, yeah, 165 Hz 1440p screens might not be able to achieve full performance with even a 1080Ti, but that's because the 1080Ti targets 60 Hz 4k as its endgame market. High-frequency high-resolution displays are still kind of novel, and the market hasn't really delved into them yet. So obviously, it's not the lord and savior, but it's still miles ahead of anything else on the market.

First, the question of multiple vs. single loop is not a question of heat: with enough head from your pump and enough radiator space, you can get adequate airflow and adequate cooling capacity for any loop. The basic heat transfer is based on an energy balance, and as long as you are dissipating heat, you are dissipating heat. It's primarily a trade-off of what you want out of your loop. A single big loop has more points of leak failure and requires a higher-power (read: possibly bigger, louder) pump, but it also has fewer mechanical components (read: pumps) and altogether has fewer leak failure points as a full system (because you increase by a long shot how many fittings you have with redundant radiators and reservoirs, etc.). So, your mileage may vary there. I think cost might be lower in liquid parts with a big loop, but you might have to source some beefy parts or lots of little things like fans and larger radiators, or go and get something kooky like automotive parts, to keep your stuff cool. As for your configuration, RAM and misc. electric circuit cooling is a little more novel, and I'm not sure about your basic premise. Aiming for a "completely airtight" system, I'm not sure, you'd be better off working on a filter system for air to run over some of your components at least, if keeping them dust-free is your problem. There's a lot of heat-producing components across your system that rely on airflow for cooling that wouldn't be covered by monoblocks et al., and things like your pump also produce significant amounts of heat. Certainly you may be able to use diffusion across your desk material and basic radiation to cool components down, maybe even at idle, but you're building a hot box if there's no airflow. It comes back to our heat transfer: your transfer of heat to the liquid isn't perfect, therefore your desk is warming up inside, therefore you need to transport that heat out somehow.

I've sold a number of workstation components and an entire old workstation on eBay before. Be mindful of skeevy buyers, but I've had good luck getting good value on components.

There's a LOT of used 1070s currently out in the market since Vega came out. You could get a 1070 for under $400 right now on eBay, even some being sold in Europe. 1070s are undoubtedly cheaper if you're willing to chance used.

Kind of. Everything still works, none of the traces were damaged so there's only superficial physical damage on the motherboard. It might not seem consequential but I'd never done SLI before, it felt like a big move for me.

About a year ago I decided my GTX 660ti on my desktop wasn't cutting it anymore, so I upgraded to an MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X. It was a pretty tremendous shift! More recently I decided to build a home-theater PC to hook up to my 4K TV. Realizing that the television did indeed output a 4K image, and my desk monitor did not, I made the decision to put my GTX 660ti back into my desktop and stuffed the 1070 into what I dubbed the shoebox: an i7 4770k ITX Core V1 build. Yesterday at 3 AM I decided to take the 1070 back out of the shoebox and try my hand at SLI for the first time with an EVGA FTW 1070 I acquired in the meantime. This is in part because I just got a 34" ultrawide and I really wanted to make sure I had as overpowered a system as possible on this thing. As you can see from this photo I took while removing the 1070 from the shoebox, the graphics card was definitely too big to fit in the shoebox. If you look closely you can see the beautiful bend in the motherboard below it as I tried to brute-force the card out. Eventually I disassembled most of the build and put my 660ti in it, because it is adequate for my HTPC purposes at 1080p. This was overwhelmingly stupid. Luckily, the shoebox is still in working condition. After this debacle, I put it into my desktop computer: an i7 5820k in a Corsair 570X, hooked up to an Acer XR342CK and to KEF Q300s through a Schiit Modi and an Emotive A-100 amp. When I first hooked things up I used a flexible SLI bridge, because the MSI card is extremely tall. This was what caused issues with the shoebox case originally. However, being familiar to bending expensive things last night, I made my HB SLI bridge connect them and get a stable connection out of them. So then I closed everything off -- I disconnected the second set of LEDs on the MSI card so that I wouldn't have to deal with its red lights -- and was pretty happy with the result! I wasn't sure how well the MSI card would fit in, but it actually looks really good side-by-side with the EVGA card and my white cables. The height difference between the two cards makes for an attractive pairing, and the red highlights on the card are minimal, if visible at all. The SLI setup drives my Acer monitor pretty damn well and they don't work too hard at keeping up with 85 Hz as long as I'm a little reasonable with my content-- consistent GTA V 85 fps gameplay is achieved on pretty good settings, according to my benchmarks, even if I don't game a ton. The doubled VRAM is really great for my modeling, too. And to the aesthetic slut in me, it looks really damn good. The addition of the extra card makes my hardware as a whole a little more streamlined and sleek. It feels really amazing to sit at my desk at night. I don't regret torturing my shoebox or the MSI GTX 1070 -- this is super worth it! We tempered glass now boyyyyzzz

I'll second the M40X recommendation. For ~$20 extra you can also get more comfortable pads that improve acoustics pretty significantly. At the $200 range you have more options, obviously, but I think the M40X are better than the M50X at $160, FWIW.

You can also catch a 660ti on ebay for $60, and that GPU served me really well for years.

First of all, that is some neat coding. Logical stuff. Same with your instructions for handling the interfaces between MB to arduino to controllers. I've been meaning to buy a multimeter for a while, so I'll take the opportunity. I'm curious about the differences between the HD and SP three-pins; I bet the layout is just flipped between the two, that's a classic. I've been told Corsair fans are pinned out to BRG instead of RGB, but it's good to be sure. This is pretty comprehensive, thanks. You're not leaving a lot of work for me to do, except for some basic linear circuits math . Now that I have some general characterization of how things are put together, I can fill in the gaps between them alright. The connection to the case controller, as it were, will only connect to my SP fans, so I probably won't get much use out of it: I'll keep it set to the software definition as I hook up my HD controller as well. Thanks so much for the help! I sprained the hell out of my ankle today, so I probably won't act upon it immediately, but I can do some planning and circuit design in the meantime. Things to think about. The Adafruit pro trinket looks like a good controller, and might be the right size to gut out one of the little button controllers for. Hmm!

I'm pretty familiar with everything but your terminology wrt pull up/down resistors. I'm not an electrical engineer, I just work with electrical systems relatively often. I assume this entails building a quasi-LED strip interface for the Aura header?