Tetanus

Thanks for the input guys! Really appreciate it! I am a little bit hesitant about dismantling the connectors, but I’ll guess the only way to figure it out is to try. -T

Well, after speaking with an electrician I learned that it’s actually not allowed in Norway to run any cables in the same conduit as electricity unless the cables can handle the same voltage. He could pull the cables but would not reinstall if they had network cables (copper) in the same conduit. He had no problem with fibre since it’s non conductive. I am not allowed to touch any permanent installations myself, my insurance company would practically void any claim so I guess fibre it is. I’ll order a cable just to see if it will fit in the conduit, if not I guess I will have to dismantle the connector on one side to pull it through. Any advice on what sort of specifications I should be looking for? Is armoured good enough or should I go for an even more heavy duty cable? -T

I would read some reviews, I don’t really have enough hands on experience with the different solutions to have an opinion. That being said, I would not install the Nest in my house since I find it lacking in customisation and some features I use. If you are looking for something modular and with more “enterprise” options I would consider the Unifi Dream Machine. This would set you back around £290 so above your budget. Customisation is great, and you can pick AP’s to suit your needs. There is one integrated AP in it, but should you need more than one you’ll have to buy another. AP’s are around £70 for the base model so keep that in mind. Fair warning, Unifi gear is addictive… - T

If you are looking for something simple to setup and manage you really can’t go wrong with either one of those mesh solutions. I am partial to the Google Nest since the Orbis are more expensive here in Norway. I have installed 3 of the older versions Google WiFi (my sister, mother and father in law) without any issues. You could easily fit a 3-pack of the older model Google wifi or a two pack of the newer Nest model just above your budget. -T

Thank you for your input @mariushm! I would prefer CAT6 but that’s not an option in this case. If I was to run the cable outside I would probably be looking at close to 50 meters including cable routing. If I was able to go straight it would be around 7-8 meters. As far as 10Gbps goes it’s more than good enough for me. I do a lot of video conferencing so I need a good connection, but nothing near even saturating a Gbps line. Figure I might as well YOLO it since the difference in price is negligible anyway. I have plans for security cameras as well so the Unifi line suits my needs, but I appreciate you giving some alternatives. -T

Thanks for the feedback @Dutch_Master! I will try to find a schematic for the actual connector to figure out the size. I will gladly pull the electrical wires out first to make room for the connector, but if it still does not fit in in a Ø16mm conduit I will have to dismantle the one end. Not as simple as I hoped for, but it is at least possible. Any advice on the actual cable? I see that FS offers both armoured and milspec.I have no idea of the ruggedness of fiber. - T Edit: Found a schematic, but as far as I can see it only details the hight of 10,7mm, not the width of the connector. I'm guessing approx 11mm.

I am looking into running some fiber inside my house. I recently did some renovations and put in new electrical and data wiring, these all run in conduits. I wil be swapping my existing network equipment some time in september. As a result of my own stupidity I forgot to put a conduit for data to my home office. My office is in a part of the building that is concrete so WiFi is pretty much a no go. I have considered running a CAT6 or CAT6A to my office on the outside of my house, but this cable would need to run through several walls and floors. This is not an ideal solution. Since I have the fuses and electrical conduits for mye home office right next to a data conduit I also considered running some shielded CAT6A in the same conduit as the electrical. After doing some research I found that this would most likely cause trouble since I would be running copper with copper. Electrical wires are 240V/50 hz. This set me on the path of fiber optics. So what do I currently have in my shopping basket you may ask? Unify Dream Machine Pro Unify Switch 24-100W Unify Switch 8-150W (two units) Unify AP AC PRO (three units, one will be in my home office) I plan to put the UDM Pro and the 24 port switch close to the dual fiber intakes on the ground floor.(only one is active, line is 800/800 Mbps). I plan to run fiber from the 24P switch up through a dedicated data conduit to the first floor and then connect to the first 8 port switch. Thinking I might as well run fiber and not CAT6 since this will be future proof. I will then run fiber through the electrical conduits to my office. This distance will be around 15 meteres (approx. 49 feet) from the 8 port to my office were I will put the second 8 port swich. Since I plan to patch everything with fiber I will order 6 of these transceivers. https://www.fs.com/products/65337.html. Yes, I realize I’m only getting gigabit LAN and not 10gig but it really doesn’t matter for my use case as long as I get a solid connection. At least it will be future proof. Now I have done a fair bit of CAT5/6/6A cabling, but I have zero experience in fiber. My copper wires run in plastic conduits (in-wall) that are Ø16mm (0,629 inches). For this to work I would need to pull the fiber in the same conduit as electrical, so I don’t have a great deal of space to work with as I install the fiber. Since I don’t have the equipment to terminate I will have to buy pre terminated fiber (patch cables). As far as I can tell, I will need LC to LC connectors on the fibre patch cable. I have found what I think I need here. (https://www.fs.com/products/40191.html). I would greatly appreciate any input as to what cable I should buy. It would need to be reasonably heavy duty to survive being pulled through the conduit. Any advice would be helpful and most welcome!

Hi there! I recently bought a Elgato Multi Mount (pole) to mount my EOS R on. The camera currently screws directly onto the pole. Since I like to carry the camera with me I am looking for an alternative to mount some form of QR. I use Peak Design Capture when carrying the camera on hikes and there is a lot on attaching and unattaching involved wich is a hassle. The camera plate supplied by Peak design is Arca Swiss compatible so I was thinking a compatible QR would be the best solution. When doing research I am completely lost in the terminology and options. The threads on the Elgato are standard 3/4. What should I buy? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

To be clear the dummybattery itself is not expensive, but the powerbrick is. I have not done a lot of searching, but I did check the price of the original Canon model. Unfortunately the availability of offbrand accessories is not that good here in Norway. I would have to get it off eBay or Amazon which is such a hassle when it comes to warranty and shipping plus VAT.

I went through quite a few cameras before I found the model that met my needs. Could probably have gone with a less sophisticated model but I really liked the specifications and possibilities it gave me. I have not figured out how it works with HDMI and clean output but if I use the Canon software that’s not really an issue. It will certainly be less expensive as I will not have to buy a new HDMI mini cable and the camlink. Would have been nice to have the dummy battery as well but this will also set me back quite a few euros.

I bought a used 7D mk2 and a EF 24-105L F4 just last week. Loving the camera. I also want the option to use it as a webcam so I purchased a 24 mm f1.8 pancake to cut down on size. The other lense is quite heavy... I was thinking about getting a Elgato Camlink for it, but I might end up using the canon software instead an connect via USB.

Well I have not been successful in getting the Modmic Wireless to work on my Series X. I can’t find any information on getting this to work either. -T

I had the exact same issue on a 1600X and tried everything to figure it out. Drove me absolutely mad. 16 gigs in bios, 8 in windows. Ended up pulling the cpu to inspect the pins and found a tiny piece of plastic. It was very small, maybe half the width of a hair and 1-2 mm long. It was lodged in between the pins. Not saying this is your issue, but try to reseat the cpu. Here’s my thread on the issue. - T

So I am having issues getting the firmware update on my Astro A50 gen 3. While I wait for a solution I was thinking I could use wired headphones and a Antlion Modmic Wireless. i did some research and found that the Modmic Wireless would not work with the Xbox one X. I could not find any information about the Series X. Have any of you guys tried this combination? I’ll give it a try myself, but wondering if anyone has some insights into weather or not this would work. -T

I recently received my Xbox Series X and wanted to use my Astro A50's. Now the new Xbox does not have SPDIF, so I need to upgrade the firmware on the Astro for them to work via USB. I am currently on 24327.42 (headset) and 24246.42 (basestation). Astro Command Centre (1.0.216) is showing me that there is a firmware update available but when i try to update the Astro's seem to get stuck on bootloader. It starts but immediately get stuck on "step 1". Has anyone successfully upgraded to the new firmware? Any advice is greatly appreciated! Update: I have tried to update the firmware on four different computers and no luck. Still hangs on bootloader. Guess I’ll have to wait for an update to ACC from Astro. - T