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sky99

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  1. If you don't want to make things complicated, my advice would be to just go with mirroring. It will copy your data to both drives. So if one dies, the other is still there. ZFS is awesome and super powerful. Also trueNAS is top notch, super stable, and i'd say the best reliability you can get for a home nas. If you make a raidZ-1 for instance, with 3 drives, 2 will be used to store your stuff, and the third for parity. If any of the 3 die, you can pop a new drive, and reconstruct the missing data. RaidZ-2 is the same, but you set 2 drives aside for parity. It is better if you have 5-6 drives. So if you have only ONE drive, you can still use ZFS. But if your drive dies, data is dead. if you have 2 drives, you can use mirroring, and have a full backup if any of the 2 drives die. if you have 3-4 drives, raidZ1 is good. Then from 5-6 drives onwards it is recommended to use raidZ2. If i recall correctly there is also raidZ3, but it is not very used because it is often recommended to build a second array if you have too many disks, and raidZ3 uses 3 disks for parity. If you need raidZ3, you probably have the funds for it. A few notes: -Your data will be in a ZFS array. That means that you can't just pop the drive out and put it in a USB case to read it from your laptop. Even with a simple drive, it probably won't be as straightforward. -if you need to be able to do this, you can try openMediaVault and ext4 filesystem. It will work on any linux distro if you need to read your data if the server died, but not the drives. -raid is not a backup. The best practice for backups is to have 3 copies of the data that really matters to you, one of witch is offsite. If you can't offsite, you can have one offline on an external drive that you sync from times to times. It protects against a power surge, lightning hitting the house, ransomware, but not house fire. -you can have another truenas machine somewhere replicating the data from your main nas. It does not need to be powerful. A mini itx machine with whatever onboard CPU, a stick of ram, a basic ssd/hdd for system and a large disk for storage will suffice. I have such a backup node that runs on less than 15W. you can get the hardware to make such a NAS for cheap too. -if your data isn't critical (like movies you share in the house, and can get if lost), you can relax your data protection policies. Like if you just store a plex library that you don't care too much about, you can just buy one big HDD, and have it running. When, down the road you get some income that you can spend on this, buy a second one, and have data redundency if you feel the need. -if going for price, big drives are often superior to small ones. For instance, i can most often get a quality 16TB drive for less than the price of 2 8TB of similar quality. Small drives (<10TB) are becoming less and less interesting in price per TB. -You can buy quality hard drives for not that much, look for ultrastar disks for instance, they are very well rated by the homelab community (pay attention to buy a sata version, rather than a SAS one) -depending on your data volume, SSDs are an option too. More expensive than HDD, but getting there. You can source 4TB SSDs (NVME or SATA) for 170$. (crucial P1 on amazon as an example). SSDs will be orders of magnitude faster in some tasks, and considerably faster in all tasks. Also if the server falls, the SSD won't die, whereas a HDD will likely die. -if on a very tight budget, you can use open media vault on a raspbery pi with repurposed laptop hard drives (i have a pile of them, seeing how i replace all the drives with ssds) -you could even use the pi box to backup some of your most important files, like family photos, or whatever. -A NAS can also run containers/apps, with truenas you will be able to add servers to your house in a few clicks, so beware, you are entering in the homelab realm, and in 3 years, you'll want to set a virtualization cluster with CEPHS and all the cool stuff Cheers!
  2. I rarely post here, but, it's nice to see that they took issues at heart. I have no hate unlike some people, i can understand how such a fast growth can derail a train. That being said, the quality of the video produced were, IMO far from being as aweful as many said. There were errors, but the analysis seemed sound most of the time. When i heard the waterblock video, i disagreed with the conclusion, and that was it. I didn't felt "mislead" or manipulated, like some said, just disagreeing. I am interested in seeing how they handle this, because LTT really looks like a good company, and i want to see them succeed in doing well while remaining honest, because it is always nice to have some people doing well while not being all EA or activision. It sets the tone. I really enjoy the content, at least 90% of the videos, and watch almost all of them. I don't look up to linus or his team because i am already advanced in my field; but i am looking with a great interest to the labs, because this is my jam (i am a computer scientist, worked in AI, on the subject of measurement and behavioural analysis, so i am a big geek for data acquisition, measurements, metrology, etc...) Anyways, best of luck for the following content! PS : i was just on the forum starting to look for more info ("didn't they say next week?", "has something gone wrong?"), when the video dropped
  3. Hello folks! I am very interested in knowing how they get the PCI backplate, you know where you screw your PCIe cards? i don't even know a proper name for this part, i have always seen it being an integral part of the case. When i make my own cases, i use a L shaped aluminim extruded part, and i drill and tap, but this would be cleaner! So what is it named, and where can one obtain such parts?
  4. ok guys, a heads up on this issue! I had the same f*****g problem with my ryzen 7, my Asrock X370 and my 16GB of samsung B-dies ram! After some swearing, i considered one thing : the only two things in common between those builds were the home and the usb install stick. I considered changing the home, but that's out of my budget. So i considered the install medium. And now my rig runs properly! I downloaded the latest win10 iso, and voila! I think that there must be some driver for the CPU somewhere on the windows iso that was outdated, and causing BSODs. As ryzen is fairly new, my iso wasn't up to date... however i never considered this previously, so it didn't come to my mind that i could have incompatibilities for a CPU... I'll check on my cousin's rig, and i hope it works for her too... Moral of the story : if installing a ryzen rig, use a recent windows iso (i excpected everything to be updated trough the network, obviously not everything gets updated this way)
  5. Well then the strange fact is that they got nothing at the seller's place, and the CPU passed a burn test i tried two, one on an UPS with anti surge and all the jazz, and the other on a regular plug, same result! i don't know for the wifi, i tried ethernet first, then tried using a USB wifi stick, with similar results... I really don't know what to do here And there better not be similar issues with my ryzen 7 when it arrives... I wonder if it's not something weird on the mobo, but there are like a gazillon settings to try, and not many things related to SATA drives...
  6. Hello folks! I'm facing a problem that i can't figure out, and have never seen. My cousin bought a ryzen5 CPU, a Gigabyte AB350-Gaming3 rev 1.0 mobo, 2*8GB ram, an RX480 a 700W PSU and a 1TB WD drive. OS is Win10 pro, but i tried (no success there) ubuntu and win7 64. When she recieved the stuff, i expected it to be a quick thing to get the PC gaming. However, it produces BSOD regularly, sometimes it just hangs. The BSOD in question is CLOCK WATCHDOG TIMOUT. I tried everything i could think of : putting crappy RAM latency, disabling advanced stuff, with stock basic ram speed; flashing to every bios version i found on the gigabyte website; trying each ram stick in each slot, and all positions for the pair; reinstalled on 3 different HDD (i only have WD sata HDDs, no spare SSD) installed all drivers; removed the ethernet cable (it seemed to BSOD faster when using ethernet...) tried another GPU ... I don't have other DDR4 sticks to try; nor another CPU, nor another AM4 mobo to try. However, i could run OCCT stress test on the CPU, and neither the tensions nor the temperatures had any problem. In fact, the only lead i have is the fact that the system is pretty unresponsive, and it hangs/BSOD when accessing the drive. Indeed, i left the computer alone with no task to do, and no BSOD. I started download stuff, and quickly a BSOD. I managed to get GTA3 installed (sad to try only GTA3 on a RX480 ), but it crashes. So i suspect some super weird problem with the sata controller, but i can't try with neither a sata SSD (no spares) nor a NVME (none at all available). One clue confirming this lead is the fact that for whatever reason, DISK USE is often at 100% even when doing just web DL. On my old rig, under win10 also, disk use rarely climbs to 1% in the same conditions. When i sort processes by disk use, the most heavy disk users barely reach 1% each, and there's a handful of them. We returned the CPU+ram+mobo+PSU to the seller (LDLC), they tried it, and got no problem. Today she brought back the machine, same thing, and i also changed the sata port without success. So i'm left here with only this question : WTF is this bug? do anyone have a clue on this, or how to solve it? Now the only ideas i have is to try random sata cables, change random settings in the bios...
  7. I've been looking up, and found a great post on reddit : https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/62vp2g/clearing_up_any_samsung_bdie_confusion_eg_on/ Up there is a list, with product numbers, of the ram sticks that includes 8GB Samsung B-Dies, as well as single vs dual rank ram, and single vs dual face PCB. So i think i'll spend more, and ensure that i get a single bank samsung B-Die, as mentioned earlier by @DocSwag earlier. Now any preferences between GSkill RipJaws and Corsair Dominator? I guess that once the mem chips are soldered, there's not much difference, all those guys are probably using premium PCBs... Anyway thanks for the advices (BTW, i think i found the reddit post on another answer you did on another thread, DocSwag...)
  8. I can't find 3000 Mhz kits at CL14 that are not too expensive, however i found the Corsair Vengeance LPX Series Low Profile 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3000 MHz CL15, which has an adequate pricing for my budget. Any reason not to chose this ram? I've also seen the Corsair Vengeance LED Series 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3000 MHz CL15, that have similar specs but with lights. Not a big deal for me, but i wonder if the price upgrade comes from better memory chips or only the added leds?
  9. So now, i'm hesitant, between: the ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 , which is cheap enough, but has cool features, but lacks USB 3.1, the ASUS STRIX B350-F GAMING, that adds 2 USB3.1 ports, a bit more expensive; the ASUS PRIME X370-A, which bumps to X370, adds quite some USB3.1 ports, but quite expensive; and the ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4, the one with the more USB 3.1 ports, 2 M2 slots, but is the most expensive There also is an MSI board that seems cool, at the price of the ASUS STRIX B350, but with an X370, but i trust ASUS more than MSI. Any insights? is some board known to be super stable, or on the opposite quite unreliable?
  10. Thanks for your answers, guys! This confirms what i was thinking. I won't do "extreme overclocking", only as much as i can achieve with the stuff i have around. That means that i won't go to phase change, nor even add a TEC to cool down my water a bit more, if i use my watercooling hardware at all. I'll probably, in the long run though, watercool this rig, but not right away. As for ports, i've noticed something : i've seen more B350 boards with 2 NVME slots than X370. could it be that the X370 use 2x8 PCIE lanes for the dual GFX, whereas it not always the case for the B350? However it would be weird if the routed the X16 slot as an x8, so it probably makes little difference... Then i wonder why i find more NVME/MSATA slots on the 350 boards... Too bad they don't have 32 PCIE lanes, that would have been perfect for pretty much anything... Not that it will be a huge problem though. But when i see the boards, i'm left thinking "with only a few more lanes, they could have made the perfect board"...
  11. Hello all! I want to build a new rig, keeping my GPU, drives/SSD and PSU. I'm going for a ryzen 7 1700, with the idea to overclock it as much as it takes it. I probably will start out with aircooling because i'm lazy, but i have multiple waterblocks, pumps, rads at home, so i'll be able to watercool it if it's useful (i can 3D-print a mounting bracket no problem). I want to game at 1080p with my current R9 290 GPU that's going on the new system, and i often do CPU intensive tasks (3D renders and 3D stuff, and heavy computing : firefox and chrome ). I'm going for 16GB of ram, perhaps 32 later down the road. I have an SSD for OSes, and another one for steam. Now the question is : what chipset should i pick? I was going for a B350, since i heard that X370 only adds crossfire/SLI stuff that don't matter to me (if i buy a new card, it will be ONE baller one, not 2 medium ones, and i got no money for 2 big cards, nor want to buy a new PSU, etc). However on this topic, i was told that X370 adds some overclocking features that should be considered. So i'm calling out to you guys : What chipset is more interesting, B350 with cool features and good pricing, or X370 with even more features, but higher cost? I don't care much for RGB stuff (i'll do them myself, with my own circuitry), nor SLI/crossfire, but i do care about getting a good overclocking; good stability, and also linux support.
  12. Sorry i didn't see that you wanted to do specifically game dev. If you want to do game dev, and you know how to code, the language won't matter much, you'll have plenty of options depending on the platform. The thing is that you'll learn a framework, or the stuff attached to an engine for a specific project. Unless you want to code everything from scratch, but nobody does that anymore. So if you never coded, python is great to learn. When you know how to code, the language won't matter much. If you want to make video games, coding is not necessarily what you want to learn (not that it won't be useful), but you may want to learn 3D modeling and animation... Depending on what you want to do, there is plenty to do.
  13. hello, i teach computer science, and programming to students from 12 yo kids to university students. And after a few years, i would say : PYTHON. Why? first of all, it is simple, straightforward; there is a library for almost anything on python; it runs on almost everything; it helps you to learn good coding practices. As for the last point, i'll explain a bit. An example is code indentation. You can have your code pretty much as you want in C/C++, provided you respect the syntax. You can have nice, clean, easy to read code, or compressed, impossible to read code, with the same result. In python, you simply can't : indentation is the base of the language. So it forces you to write your code in a more readable way. Furthermore, there are a lot of recommandations for python, called PEP, that give you canevas for GOOD coding. If you want to start right away, download python for whatever system you have, a good text editor, such as atom, and find a good tutorial. Python is made with a philosophy : there are many ways to make things, but one is better. So in python, most of the time, you have THE way to make stuff that will be presented to you, in the documentations/tutorials, etc. C/C++ can be extremely powerful, but it takes time to master it. It is also easy to have huge mistakes in your code, whereas python is much easier on the beginner. Python is interpreted, so you don't need to compile your code all the time, so you really need only python installed on your system to start coding. I'll add that there are books under free licences on the net providing complete method to learn python, even for young children. If you want to learn programming in a REALLY fun way, get a raspberry pi, a breadboard, and a few LEDs, and you'll be able to learn not only programming but also physical computing (the code will be the same as general purpose coding), only you'll interact with LEDs, buttons and stuff in the real world rather than just having stuff written in a terminal What i do for my programming class is exactly that : i made raspberry pi robots with motors, sensors, LEDs, and within 2 to 4 hours, teenagers know enough to get on programming by themselves. Good luck
  14. Thanks, that's interesting. As for TCP/IP stuff beeing routable, an option is to have a VLAN for the automation stuff. Why i like generic TCP/IP is because we don't need specific hardware, almost any microcontroller can be integrated in a home network via ethernet/wifi, and from there everyone speaks TCP. However, as for serial, although i don't use it, i like to leave the option, and i often leave a connector for serial on my boards.
  15. Since it's your job, i have a question about this : why is the industry so keen on using serial communications, rather than generic TCP/IP communications?
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