TetraSky

Yeah it ain't happening.

Why does AT&T even have social security numbers of people... It's weird how Americans are giving their unique identification numbers that can't be changed easily to whichever company that asks for it, when it should really only be given to your employer, your bank and the government. Or at least, that's how it is in Canada. I wonder what AT&T will do to make this right... When we had a leak with Desjardins (a sort of bank in Quebec), they provided 5 years of free Equifax Premier to all members... Which is kind of pointless as the crims can simply wait out the 4 years before they start abusing the information they got.

In florida, it is. https://uavcoach.com/drone-laws-florida/ You're also not allowed to fly a drone in any state parks https://www.floridastateparks.org/plan-your-visit/faqs Find more about drone laws in Florida https://pilotinstitute.com/drones/states/florida/

With that budget, I'm sorry to say you are not really getting anything much better than what you currently have. Save up and wait. GTA5 should run with no issues with those specs. Pretty sure the same goes for the rest.

Man, if you buy something only to open it and find out its fake... How do you go about to convince the store you got a fake and you're not trying to finesse them.

Oh no... The forum went all Comic Sans again.

The video is not early. It came out when somewhere in the world was the 1st of April. UTC+14:00 https://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/timezone/utc14 https://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/kiribati/kiritimati Current time over there matches with when the video came out. The video was released at 06:14:52AM (EST). Which means it was 14 minutes past midnight on the 1st of April in Kiritimati. Source : Youtube data viewer

Monitor brightness depends on the monitor itself. Mine is set at 45, because it is enough. There's very little difference between 50 and 100 on my monitor. Then... I don't use any of the "night light" built-in stuff. They don't go far enough. I just use "lightbulb". 6250k color + 90% brightness during daytime and 2680k + 40% brightness during night time (These are the settings I found worked best for me, with HDR OFF. Night time colors and brightness need to be higher if I leave HDR enabled all the time). With a transition of 1 hour. Can be easily disabled if I want to watch a movie and activate HDR. Lights on during the day and lights out at night. I experience little to no eye issues concerning my monitor's brightness. On my phone, I use "twilight" to essentially do the same thing and reduce the brightness and colors.

Hot damn this CPU uses a lot of power by itself. AMD being at the top of the charts for points per watt is not surprising in the least. I for one am really hopeful that the chiplet design Intel is working on will finally bring that power usage back down. This is getting ridiculous.

How about all those youtube channel that takes content off Reddit and just have a TTS voice over to read it? There's tools to do all this automatically with little to no inputs from the channel owner. Would that be included since "realistic sound" could include the rudimentary AI powered TTS voice over we have these days or would it fall into the crack since it technically isn't "altered content" and is just stolen content?

They assume you already upgraded. Because no Apple user proper would be caught dead using a last gen iphone. Much less one that is several generations old. /s

Emojis should have never moved away from being Yellow. Adding more colors was a mistake. Make everyone have jaundice emoji.

Is this apple admitting the glass back on their phones was a bad idea? In any case.... I'm looking at that page and only someone completely in the cult of apple would think these talking points are any good arguments in favor of an upgrade. "You get free, temporary iCloud storage to transfer your data to your new iPhone. " Oh boy, how generous to let people temporarily have higher storage capacity for free when they need to transfer data on their new phone.

Manufacturers refusing to honor warranty just because YOU didn't buy it directly... should be illegal. Someone else bought it. It's still within the warranty period. This is just gatekeeping warranty service to the first customer, making the warranty void if they ever give or sell it to someone else. Unfortunately, we elect people who prefer taking bribes from big companies to protect their interests instead of doing good thing for the people.

Well, that's a legislation that will totally work because kids would never lie on their age.

I'm in Canada. I have never heard of Colorado Boulder university. But I have heard of Purdue. According to Google, it is much harder to get into Purdue than Colorado boulder. Which in turn translate to graduation rates being higher at Purdue. Purdue is ranked 99 in the world for a top university. Boulder is far down the ranking at 264. Purdue University : Rankings, Fees & Courses Details | Top Universities University of Colorado Boulder : Rankings, Fees & Courses Details | Top Universities Then you consider the cost. Purdue is somehow cheaper. Though it has extra fees depending on the course. This might also be the case for Boulder, but I'm too lazy to search any more info than this. https://admissions.purdue.edu/costsandfinaid/tuitionfees.php https://www.usnews.com/best-colleges/university-of-colorado-boulder-1370/paying#:~:text=University of Colorado Boulder's tuition,Colorado Boulder is more expensive.

Still VA at the end of the day. I do suggest you try it. If you buy on Amazon, you can return it pretty much pain free if you change your mind. I returned 2 monitors in the past few months. One due to VA being awful and one due to quality issues. Ended up settling on a much more expensive IPS curved monitor from LG.

It will likely be fine as long as you lower your expectations. It's a VA panel. There's a lot of drawback to those, even in games. There's a huge difference between IPS and VA. VA panels look more vibrant and the blacks look deeper. BUT, you will get disgusting amount of smearing on blacks during movements or when scrolling down on a webpage. You will mainly notice these issues while browsing the web. In games... it will be noticeable on fast movements if you focus on them. There will be a blurry shadow that trails behind everything with a darker hue. Here's a review for that monitor: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/gigabyte/g32qc

Reads are a bit low compared to the writes, but that's about what I expect from a hard drive on sata. It's not that bad. Hard drives do lose in speed over time. Some more than others. If I understand your initial picture, that was when it was on USB. The speeds looks normal to me for that. Honestly, I had an old Seagate drive that was barely getting 30-40MB/s on read/write on internal SATA. It eventually died. But only years after the initial problems started. It's unfortunate when the drive barely has 10k hours on it. Here's my external drive, that used to get 80-100MB/s. Currently at a bit under 10k hours on it as well... That said, you mentioned the drive is "barely a year old". You have 10332 power on hours on it... In a year, there's 8,760 hours. Meaning this drive has been spinning for well over a year, 24/7. Never allowed to power down when not in use, considering how low the Power On Count is. In contrast, my drive is multiple years old. Around 10 years by now and has less "Power On Hours" on it with triple digit power on count. So really, I'm not surprised that it is losing read speeds by now.

Eh, that's fine. It's not ideal, but still good enough. I would personally still get the 8 outlets one, since even if the 4 fits your need now... These may change later.

Good. Delay it. Unrealistic time frames set by pencil pushers higher ups who then force devs to do crunchtime should disappear. It will be ready when it's ready to be released.

It sure sounds like it from the name alone, isn't it. Looking at product reviews, someone posted an image... The actual manufacturer is Orico. Orico doesn't sell the exact same product as this one. I'm guessing they do "custom" products based on their existing line up. Which isn't unusual. This isn't "drop shipping" at the very least. Someone had to design new products and ask Orico to manufacture them. The closest item I could find of them that is similar is this one : https://www.orico.cc/us/product/detail/3932.html They added a toggle switch and moved the usb ports to the top instead of the side. Kind of a lazy design, but still much better than braindead dropshippers who provide nothing good to anyone other than selling cheap garbage for more money than they are worth. Orico is not a bad brand. The products are ok. I doubt you'd have any issues with that item if you were to buy it. If you want something from a known reputable brand with more time behind their back, the APC surge protector I posted previously would be good. It's over 2000J, at 2500J. Which is plenty for computer use. APC is a well known and reputable brand. But again, I doubt you'd go wrong with the Orico made NTONPOWER surge protector if it fits your needs.

4000J would be enough. Yes. More than enough in fact. Never heard of this particular brand, but it looks like a normal price for a surge protector. I'm not seeing anything that screams red flag about it either. Other than the obviously undisclosed paid reviews of their products online. The fact they advertise 4000J means they stand behind their product. Especially in the EU where you have so many robust consumer protection laws. One thing I would love for the LTT Lab to do, is investigate the claims some of these surge protectors make.

Yup, it's the fault current rating. That said, please don't get that thing. It looks like a dollar store power strip without any real protection in it. Looking at the Amazon pages, you were indeed in the "power strip" category. These are not surge protectors. See the difference. Even in the current fault ratings https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/APC-Surge-Protector-protection-PL8VT3/dp/B005MNROQS/

Any good surge protector will have a joules rating. The cheap ones have little to no protection in them. It's literally just copper wires going from one prong and being divided into multiple outlets. I'm guessing the 13.5k and 15k Amps are fault current ratings. Makes no sense otherwise (I tried looking at a few but none had such a rating.) It's usually something that would happen during a short circuit. Typically, your home's breaker box also have such ratings on them as well. Likely has a "10 kA" written on them. The higher the joules, the higher the protection it offers. For computers and other sensitive electronics, you will want at the very least 2000J. More is better. https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/blog/joules-the-key-to-surge-protection/