Cool_BoyD^-^

Air flow, tempered glass, PSU shroud, cable management, and size. I'm amped for only one case...
 
 

Pros:
Good tempered glass/side panel mounting System (or at least ones that dont suck)
More than just 240mm RAD support. (280, 360. anything more is a bonus but starts making cases bigger than they need to be)
Good airflow, either mesh front, or Proper vertical side ventilation 
Proper implementation of a PSU shroud, with SSD mounts, ventilation holes on the top, a top door for RADS, or a combination of the three
Smart cable management features. Fractal, NZXT and Phanteks have their ducks in a row. The rest have some left to be desired.
PSU Bracket and AIO Brackets for easy installation 
Modular/Removable Hard Drive cages
3.1 Gen 2 Type C (not all Type C ports run at the faster speed, you need the new connector for it)
 
Cons
Horizontal (top and bottom) intakes (P400 and S340)
RGB thats Proprietary (NZXT, Corsair, etc)
 
Indifferent
Native Vertical GPU mounts (ONLY use these if you're watercooling your GPU!!!)

Size, airflow, dust management, part compatibility. 
 
RGB and tempered glass can suck it.

It has room and convenient mounting for everything I plan to fit inside It has room and convenient mounting for everything I plan to fit inside Good Airflow and fan placement Good Dust filtering (good filters where they matter, easy removal and cleaning of said filters No unnecessary lights No glass or other unnecessarily fragile/heavy materials I rarely can get everything on the list maxed out (like, there's always the silly LED here and there), and the choice set gets pretty narrow among the newest cases, but luckily there's still plenty older stuff around and a few "alternative designs" to cover my needs for now.

Can I get an AMEN
 
Screw Molex. 

I look first at functionality, which is very subjective.
1. I want a exterior bay for a Bluray Drive, most people don't want these anymore, but I still use CD's alot
2. I want good front bay i/o, though if a case hase everything else going for it and has an expansion bay this can be fixed with a $20 expansion bay piece
3. Good cable management options
4. Airflow design
5. Spacious, room for fans and drives
6. No molex connectors. When a case comes with a bunch of molex fans and front i/o, it's either old or built cheaply, and if they used cheap fans and front i/o, there's a good chance they cheaped out in other areas
7. Good material feel, I know this may seem not a functional matter, but details count. If they have ugly plain steel innards, that's the same as the molex connectors. I look for quality details and design, because these case manufacturers are companies at the end of the day. They could make more money buy focusing only on the important things, so when I see a company focus on the less important things, the little details, I know they care about the customer too, not just the bottom line. It lets me trust that their product will last.
Having said all that, I'm not buying a case again. I'm building my own desk where the top drawer on the left is my PC case
It will be easily customized, able to be changed and upgraded down the road, and it will have whatever features I want along with great linear airflow

I look at a case based on expandability and functionality and 100% ignore visuals / rgb / tempered glass stuff. if I need to I can paint/weld anything to a case if need be.
 
tempered glass reminds me a lot of those fake wood 1980s console stereo cabinets so i usually avoid going back to that look again

They're interesting but I don't find them worth the money.

Yeah, I agree... £200 is quite a lot of money...

Fuck yeah,but they are quite expensive for what they offer.They certainley are very unique though

I know this was posted on august 10th originally but I thought I would make this clear that you all need to STOP obsessing over RGB, Pull your socks and britches up like adults, Stop crying about RGB and just use what's on the damn QVL. G.Skill makes the absolute BEST Ryzen compatible kit and for those of you fools saying to only use two chips in one kit you are just that fools, FOUR sticks of G.Skill Flare X work perfectly fine at DDR4 3200 speeds, that's 32 gigabytes of RAM which is more than enough for most games. If you need more, Buy a Threadripper, and use 4 Flare X 3200 kits in the board for a total of 64 gigs of ram.Plain and simple folks. Most of the memory manufacturers are releasing QVL's of their own as well for what's compatible and what's not. Check with the manufacturer of each brand of memory, I've seen Patriots list and it's very impressive, however The timings of the approved kits are not as tight of timings as the best kit available which is the FLARE X at 3200 which is running at 15-15-15-34. Don't go to the board manufacturers until you have looked online at the Ram maker's lists.
 
Peace and love,
 
 
Maverick Wolfe
 
PS. I've been involved in the industry one way or another since I first got my paws on a PC in 1990-91. My experiences, albeit these days because of forums coming and going along with other issues such as hackers and database crashes most of my posts or stories along with reviews no longer exist. I have an extensive research background with power supplies and other critical components as well as MANY different things regarding Technology.  I also worked in the low voltage field as a cable installer/apprentice for over 20 years learning so that until the unfortunate demise of the family business the plan was for me to eventually take the reigns as a lead installation technician. If you've got questions, I've likely got answers.

600W from a good PSU. GTX 1080 TI is 250W, i'd put 300W for that to allow for overclocking and additional power use. The ryzen itself uses up to 150W (overclocked), but if you dont overclock its 65W, 95W if you clock it up without adding volts. The board itself, not so much. I'd put down 100 for the board including all the peripherals you can attach and power from it. Drives, 20W, fans approx 30W. All these are max values that may not be reached though but depends on your usage.
So at stock you have
250W+65W+100W+ 50W giving approximately 500W PSU requirement if you dont overclock.
If you do overclock, thats almost 100W more for CPU, 50W more for GPU giving a requirement of 650W.

thanks for this.... let me find some

Using the latest BIOS and RGB control software, the SPD on the replacement kit was corrupted during installation of the RGB control software, although fortunately the system still boots (better than the first kit). Issues with the RAM have been reported on all platforms people have used it in, it is not limited to Ryzen.
 
The frequency of complaints about borked RAM has decreased, I still don't trust it and keep a spare set of RAM ready in case it fails again.

It will be fixed when G.Skill/ASUS/CORSAIR wants to fix it. 
The problem isn't only exclusive to Ryzen. Don't use any conflicting software in the meantime. 

Only in that I had to over volt it to get 3200mhz + There's still an issue with using them with the TRC at 56 (rated) I have to run 16-18-18-18-60-1T at 3200mhz. If you want ease this issue, get CAS 14 3200mhz or CAS 16 3200mhz as they will be Samsung B die and Ryzen plays much better with those memory chips

So maybe don't state your opinion as fact? And you know some of the most well-regarded products are made in China...
 
Unless you find a good amount of people with negative experiences with them, why assume it's bad quality. Everyone else here has nothing but stellar reviews for them. China != bad. 

Any proof? I have many people here who agree with me, and my own personal rig which has used their tubing and fittings for years with no issues.

Barrow is very high quality. as good as any brand for triple the price.
 
Bitspower is extremely overpriced, don't even look at their stuff.

my entire custom hard tubing loop is barrow except the gpu which was provided by asus.
 
have had zero issues now 2 weeks in. 

ok

Thanks for the heads up, I was running all the things so I'll avoid Aura until theres a fix.

Actually I find this article http://www.overclock.net/t/1624603/rog-crosshair-vi-overclocking-thread

"Aura software and RGB sticks corrupting SPD

If you're using out Aura software and have compatible RGB sticks installed, please make sure you're not running any other software which is reading SPD (CPU-Z, HWMonitor, HWInfo32/64, SIV, AIDA64, Speedfan etc) or you might end up with a corrupted SPD. Most of the time they will still work fine, but there's a slight chance your sticks might become unusable. It's currently being investigated on our side, until then I have to recommend to uninstall Aura until we've fully assessed the situation. From what I've learned it's a bug present with several different vendors and combinations of both motherboards and DRAM modules.
"
I dnt think I will buy the rgb one..
 

You fixed my heart,dude

Yep, why no regrets. I got some work done last night and oh my god. Just wow is this thing fast. I know the exact amount of Facebook posts I can make while X is unpacking. It's faster than I can load Facebook now LOL. My productivity just went up, while my Facebook time just crashed.