SithBowman
-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
SithBowman's Achievements
-
Hi forum users, I've been trying to completely wipe my M.2 SSD (Samsung 512GB), which still has an EFI system partition and OEM Partition in it after previously having Windows 10 on it (the drive currently has no Windows files on it whatsoever and hasn't done for well over a year). When I try and use diskpart to clear the SSD, it says that it ca't be done as Windows is still running. To make matters more complicated, when I go to my BIOS it comes up with the Samsung SSD as the primary boot option, without my actual boot drive, a Sandisk SSD which had the OS before ever installing the Samsung SSD in this build as an option. The computer will also refuse to boot up into Windows without having the Samsung SSD selected to boot off of, again, despite ALL system files being on the Sandisk SSD.
-
There's pretty much no difference in performance between a 1060 and a 980, a 1070 is more like a 980Ti.
-
My laptop has that same APU, it runs up to as high as 2.6GHz when plugged in (effectively, its boost clock). The instability has never happened with me though, so I wouldn't 100% think that it's down to running at above the speed given in Task Manager. -
It's not entirely clear what CPU you have (it says i7-6600K in the post) If you have a i5-6600K, GTX 1080 SLI will be difficult if you're wanting high framerates as there may not be enough performance in it. If you have a i7-6700K, Both 1080 SLI or GTX 1080Ti should be usable. (I have a 6700K and GTX 1080Ti myself, running a 2560x1440 high refresh monitor. Typically in CPU intensive games like racing games, my 6700K@4.6GHz is at 90% usage when playing at up to 165Hz)
-
I personally haven't got the exact setup that you have using up PCIe lanes, but I have a Z170 board w/ 6700K, NVMe drive, Wi-Fi card and GTX 1080Ti (over PCIe riser). Just to tell it straight, I still have the expected performance from a 1080Ti. Chances are though, some of the things being connected could be running using the additional chipset PCIe lanes, meaning that it's still possible the GPU will be running with 16x still (pretty sure my 1080Ti still is running at 16x)
-
1440p w/ higher refresh rate VS 4k w/60fps
SithBowman replied to cris_cardenas_1's topic in Displays
I have a GTX 1080Ti and a 1440p 144Hz (165Hz OC) monitor, typically a game like GTA V Online at Maximum settings gets me about 100 fps, which is very noticeable against the standard 60fps. Note for OP : If you're getting a 24" or 27" Monitor, 1440p High Refresh is a much better option, A 32"+ monitor could be more difficult to decide. Also, if you go with 1440p, you can guarantee a smooth playing experience of 60+ fps all the time, 4K may experience dips below if at really high settings -
Z170 monochromatic motherboard..
SithBowman replied to Watashi's topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I second this, I own this motherboard myself, the lighting can be turned off in their software, the 2 lighting zones can be independently turned on/off, but the left hand line of light can only be red if you want the lighting there. The lighting on the right is RGB, Again, if you are going to have it on at all. BONUS : The UEFI BIOS is really easy to use compared to some other manufacturers like Gigabyte. -
With GTX 1070s currently being $400, it's a reasonable price. Yes it's a money grab, but only to grab money away from people considering the RX Vega 56 (if they could find one easily enough where they live). With no proper confirmation as to when Volta is being released, people that can't wait around for Volta (likely to be hard to get a hold of initially anyway) have a better choice of GPU if they're upgrading from an older graphics card or building a new system.
-
I can't answer this using anecdotal or physical evidence, but in theory, the performance of a radiator is based on surface area that can be cooled down. This can be increased by the FPI (Fins Per Inch) being higher, or the surface area of the entire radiator. Based on surface area, the difference between a 280mm radiator and a 360mm radiator is relatively small (~10%, instead of ~35% for other size increases). This means you're probably better off getting a good quality 280mm, rather than an average quality 360mm AIO.
-
All of them take standard ATX PSUs, the P1 (smallest) can take 180mm length ones as well, which is the length of a Corsair RM750i, the P1 can use Mini-ITX mobos, the others can use ATX
-
I have the Thermaltake Core P3 mounted on my wall, I bought it for <£100 (price on Amazon US is $95 at the moment). If the P3 is too small ... the P5 is about £110//$120 and the P1 (default is Tempered Glass) is the same price (or cheaper depending on location) than the P3
-
EK normally makes good products and saw they released one recently https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-m-2-nvme-heatsink-black Here's the one that I have, It's about as low profile as you can get for m.2 heatsinks https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=37B-0003-00023
-
70C is typically the maximum operating Temperature of Samsungs SSDs now I have a similar NVMe SSD by Samsung (it's an older PM951 512GB). I got a relatively cheap (under £20/$20) double-sided M.2 Heatsink (Alphacool HDX to be precise, as I got it cheap, but other ones are available as there's more on the market nowadays) In an open case, I went from reaching 80C under FULL load - as part of a long read speed benchmark - down to just 65C and taking a LOT longer to get to that temp and well (not to mention getting much higher read speeds than otherwise advertised). Even in a build I made for a friend in a Silverstone SG13B, a normal M.2 SSD went down by 5C under full load by adding loads of tiny heatsinks to it for £3.
