AznKnight82

I've got good wifi, but, for whatever reason, it's not stable when my Linksys WRT1900AC acts like a repeater. I want the Powerline Ethernet so that I can make my WRT1900AC act like a new AP. That way, I could move the 1900AC closer to my desktop, use a wired connection, and have better access & control to my NAS drives. Also, channel 6 isn't being used in my neighbourhood, so I could set my 1900AC to use that channel (instead of channel 11, like 3 other houses are using). I don't have admin access to the modem/router. As an update: Just talked with the landlord, and he said all of the wiring is original (1973). He's a real estate agent too, and says that it's the "same copper wiring used in brand new homes".

First World Problems - Weird Al

I don't plan on plugging in the Powerline Adapters into a powerboard. But, as I know electrical interference can cause issues, there are other things that need to use the same outlet (as there aren't any other ones nearby to substitute). And those other things are those 24/7 power-on appliances/devices. Will need a powerboard for those devices, but the Adapters will be plugged directly into the wall. Though, as a side note, if I'm not using the Linksys router as a repeater anymore, I could re-locate it to another part of my room that has more accessible outlets so at least on one end of the Powerline Ethernet, I get minimal interference. If I can get 40-50Mbps (we're talking bits, not bytes, right?) stable connection, that would be pretty awesome. Yes, I know, 8 bits = 1 byte. 40 Mbps < 40 MBps. I'd rather have the stability and reliability (even if slower) of wired over faster, less stable, wireless.

So, that being said, would I not see any appreciable gain in performance if I got the 500+Mbps over the 200Mbps? Maybe I don't get the rated speeds, but, if it's more than a marginal improvement, I'll spend the coin.

My desktop has built-in wireless AC with antenna (Asus Maximus VI Impact). I get an awesome connection to the Cisco modem/router. Every other device in my room gets 1 bar. I have NAS drives and I don't want them sitting in the common rooms of the house. I want them behind my locked door. Also asked the ISP if I could get my own dedicated modem just for my room (cable company said: "One address = One modem.") The DSL providers in this neighbourhood have a max speed of 5Mbps download, for $65 a month. I can get 55Mbps from the cable company for the same price. Not an option, unfortunately. Already asked the landlord if I can get a professional and conceal the wiring to my room. He said "No." He's a bit of a d-bag. I also wanted to put a sound-proof door on my room, and said I would pay for it, and he also said "No" to that. Don't want to lay it out on the ground, through the kitchen, up some stairs, across the doorway of a shared bathroom (between 4 people, but I have my own ensuite), before reaching my room. Too much of a tripping hazard.

Ok, I have another thread on a similar topic, but want to keep things focused on each thread. I live in an old house. No idea how old the wiring is. If it's anything like the age of the house, it's 30+ years old. I am contemplating on getting a powerline ethernet adapter. But, given the suspected age of the wiring, should I bother spending the extra coin on an AV500+ Mbps or just stick with 200 Mbps? It will be connecting a Cisco DPC3825 (Docsis 3) to a Linksys WRT1900AC. At the Cisco end, the same outlet will have a powerbar (yes, I know, powerline adapter directly into the wall), powering a large fridge and the modem/router. At the Linksys end, the same outlet will also have a powerbar, powering the 1900AC and 2 WD NAS drives (My Cloud). There aren't any other outlets close-by. I've got a Cisco Modem/Router and another Linksys router, should I try to get a Linksys product?

The router is already configured as a repeater, so it uses an IP address assigned (as far as I understand) by the modem/router. "192.168.1.1" shows "failed to connect". At this moment, the IP address of my router is "192.168.0.19". It was "192.168.0.162" the last time I tried finding it. And, as I mentioned in the OP, I do not have access to the settings on the modem/router. Shortly after making this post, the IP address on my router changed, again, and I have no clue what the IP address is (and therefore can't change any settings).

You don't know Linksys (Sorry, that wasn't meant to be a rude comment to you, more the stupid-ness of Linksys). I find the IP address (takes me a while, since, as I said, I sequentially go through every IP address) and it automatically loads the Linksys "Smart Wifi" browser UI.

No option in Linksys software to enable/disable DHCP. All I have is the modem/router's SSID info, and my router's SSIDs (and info/settings). Nothing else. As a side note, I am willing to get Powerline Ethernet adapter (any particular recommendations? particularly from a Big Box Store, sorry NCIX). The house I live in (and 95% of the houses in my neighbourhood) are 30+ years old. I have little/no confidence on the quality of the wiring throughout the house, and its effectiveness in utilizing Powerline adapters.

Okay, So I recently moved into a new place (student house). I'm pretty far from the modem/router (Cisco Docsis 3825, I think). I don't know the password for the modem/router. It is not the default, and our landlord is sometimes out of the country (so if I muck things up, he might not be around to call the ISP to get it fixed). Anyways, on my desktop PC, I get a decent signal (everything else gets 1 bar). But I have a couple of WD MyCloud HDDs and they can only connect to a router (and not a PC). And I don't like the idea of having about $800 of hardware sitting in our kitchen (8 roommates). So I bought a Linksys WRT1900AC (My desktop and my tablet use AC, so, I thought, why not?). I probably didn't set it up properly. Probably have to use a powerline ethernet to make it work (I have done that before), but I really didn't want to spend the extra money. Running ethernet cable to my room is not an option. It'll have to go up the stairs, and across the doorway of a shared (between 4 people, but not me) bathroom before reaching my room. Especially since the WRT1900AC has a repeater mode on it. Anyways, all I did was go into the "Smart" software, set it as a repeater, and put in all the SSID etc. from the main network, and it "worked". But the connection is very unstable. My new router, and everything connected to it, constantly changes IP address. Every 5- 20 minutes, it's a new IP address. I do not know why. There isn't an option to control the IP address "lease time" on my router. Plus it's a big pain in the butt to find out what the new IP address is of my router. Pretty much, I have to try every single IP address from 192.168.0.2 to 192.168.0.256 until I find my router. And hopefully find it and make the changes I want, before it changes its IP address again. The thing is, when I connect directly (wireless) to the modem/router (supplied by the ISP), my IP address is much more static. This is evident when I play games. I get disco-ed when connected to the WRT1900AC (wireless) within 20 minutes, but can go for hours when connected to the modem/router. So I don't understand why my router (and everything on it, including my NAS drives) keeps changing IP addresses. Some of the settings I'm using: 2.4GHz band: same channel as modem/router, different SSID, 20MHz only, wireless n only. 5GHz band: hidden SSID, 20MHz only (or 40, but I forget), wireless ac only. No one else in my neighbourhood is broadcasting in 5GHz. I reserve the use of the 5GHz band for myself. I bought the router so my roommates with bad signal can get a boost, while I "supposedly" get great bandwidth to my NAS (my roommates can also access my NAS, but I'm cool with that. I told them to download movies/shows to their laptops and not to stream directly). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Preferably advice that doesn't involve buying more stuff.

Not concrete. It's an older house, but well-taken care of. It's got "premium dry-wall". The owner/landlord is a real estate agent. He knows what holds value. He just re-paved (sidewalk cement, it looks fresh) all of the walkways around the house and the driveway and plans on getting a landscaper to add some green (grass, shrubs, and stepping stones). The router supposedly sits somewhere before the steps. I think it's the base modem/router provided by the ISP. I'm starting to move some of my stuff over today, hopefully I'll meet some of my roommates and I can discuss it with them.

As a side note, I have about 7TB of cloud (NAS) storage. I often stream massive HD files (ranging from 4 - 15GB for 2-3 hours of video) to my tablet and PC. I generally need solid-throughput. My room isn't that far from the router. I think only a bathroom separates my closest wall to the modem/router. But then again, my room is also the largest in the house at 13' x 16'. Maybe 80 ft total maximum distance from the furthest wall in my room to the front door. The house is built with what I call "half-floors". ____ second floor ________ (my room) front door |______________/ \____ lower floor ___________________ / = about 5 steps Worst-case scenario, I buy the router and no one else uses it, but I lock access by MAC address to the router. But my NAS drives sit outside of my room.

So I decided to make a last minute decision and just rent a place near school. It's a big house with 8 people living in it in total. I am one of the furthest from the router, but I do gaming and streaming (to watch the WAN show etc.). I do not know the speed of the internet connection in the house, but I am hoping it's the top-tier (120 Mbps down/ 10Mbps up) since there's this many people living in the house. I have two options, but would prefer the cheaper of the two: a) buy an awesome wireless router (preferably AC - desktop and tablet use AC, my phone isn't desperate for internet access when I'm home) that I can share with my 7 roommates. I'm thinking a total of 20+ devices, but maybe a maximum of 10 active connections at any given moment. So which one? The Nighthawk X6 looks nice, because it's tri-band. But the WRT1900AC has a more powerful chipset. These kinds of routers will set me back about $300-350 after taxes. A second issue I might have are if people still connect to the wireless modem. Then the modem will control the load-balancing and treat the router as a single user. If my roommates would agree to just using the new router, I could turn off the radio on the modem, and possibly even get the cost of the router partially subsidized by them. I want to try this option first, as it's the cheaper of the two. Planning on visiting a big-box store with a generous return policy, try it out at the new place. Let my roommates connect to it, and see if they like it (and the connection is stable enough for me). If not, return it, and go with option B. b ) I'm a bit of a security nazi. I really like wired connections. Just pay for another modem just for my room. That'll cost me about $600-700 (to my ISP, after taxes where I get 55 Mbps down, just for the next 8 months) but then I don't have to worry about anyone hogging bandwidth etc. I also have a couple of NAS devices, so having a localized router in my locked room does bring extra piece of mind, but I also don't mind my roommates grabbing files from it from time-to-time.

So I am in the market to pick up a set of IEMs. While I love my over-the-ear headphones, the bulk of carrying it around and the resultant headphone-hair, I would like to have something else to bring with me. I only spent about $300 on my current headphones, and have some reservations on spending more than that for IEMs for the sole purpose of listening to music off of my phone when I'm not at home. If the sound quality is markedly better, for a marginal higher price (than my headphones), I would be okay with that. Basically, some features that I do like: detachable cables (have it for my headphones, and have saved the cables a few times while I was on the bus) enjoyable sound quality (I am not an audiophile, but can still appreciate the difference between cheap and quality) good isolation Most of my looking around point me in the direction of Shure SE425 vs. the SE215. The SE215 costs about $124 while the SE425 cost $384 (both after taxes). I listen to a wide range of music (usually FLAC or 320 kbps MP3) and through my Fiio E07k. My preferred budget is sub-$250 (CAD, after taxes), but I do have some play. For example, in the case of the SE425's, a lot of people say it's worth the extra money. I definitely do not want to break the $400 barrier (after taxes, so $354 before taxes). I've dealt with www.headphonebar.com in the past, and do like their service (like sending a hand-written thank you note for my patronage inside of the shipping box). I will likely buy from them again or another reliable Canadian retailer (online). I would like to make the purchase by 12 September 2014. Saving $260 by getting the SE215's means I can buy more junk food and cigarettes. I'm willing to sacrifice those for better IEMs (within reason).

As mentioned a bunch of times, it's everything that speeds up. My reboot time is under 25 seconds (as timed by my friends on Mumble). That includes the time to type in my password for Windows 8 and to re-start Mumble and say "Back".

I get that hissing sound when there's electronic interference (like a headphone jack is right next to the microphone jack). I use a USB DAC for audio output, but also have a boom mic with a splitter going to the audio-in, and when both are connected at the same time, I experience hissing. As soon as I unplug the audio-in (and am just connected to the DAC), all of the hissing is gone. I also have an in-line volume control on my headphones, and when I turn down the volume the hissing becomes barely noticeable. Particularly useful when playing games and having VOIP programs running in the background. The output volume is generally controlled by my DAC, so I can always compensate for a lower in-line volume with a higher amp/DAC volume (and still not experience hissing).

The phone: dust-proof-ness and the pretty screen (I think Sony screens look quite vibrant). The case: cool custom skin.

brushed aluminum = sexy

Playing on Ultra/Maxed out everything (including TXAA) in 1080p. Generally quite smooth. High-speed motorcycle riding in the rain tends to drop a frame every 5-7 seconds. Some artefacts with building shadows crossing over another building (it flickers, but when I look away and look back, it's all good). Very few complaints. Downloaded the Nvidia drivers before the release. I did have some issues earlier though, due to the UPlay overlay (supposedly). The game crashed and then wouldn't start again. I disabled the overlay, and still wouldn't start. I rebooted, and everything was just peachy. Running on 4770k @ 3.986GHz and stock GPU. Might use an OC-profile later and see if there's any difference.

I personally don't have a problem with speaker reviews. And, despite the hate, I generally do like BOSE speakers. I've had a couple sets of the Bose Companion 2.0 (when I lived far from where I live now, and decided to sell it instead of fitting them into my suitcases) and even used those for small (20-40 people) house parties. And they were good enough to have ambient music in the background (even on our patio). The only problem I have is that I know the mark-up/margin on BOSE products. I've worked in one of those big box stores and I saw the cost of those bad boys. Working there, we got cost plus 10%. And even though most of us made minimum wage, getting one of those 5.1/7.1 home theatre systems (MSRP $1000+) was many of their first purchases. I didn't bother with one of those (and I'm glad: I haven't owned a TV in several years).

I haven't paid for a new phone since the Motorola V60. Hand-me-downs and whatever free phone I can get with a 2-year phone plan.

There's eVGA Hadron. But it uses a custom slim DVD drive, I think. Also have to consider that it comes with a custom PSU (500W). If it wasn't a few weeks away when I ordered my system, I probably would've gotten that one. The Hadron water and the custom cooling kit. One of the cheapest "custom" liquid cooling options, I think. North of the (US) border, anyways.

I was wondering if they actually made a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaZgfStrP_U&list=UU2IqUAjXnkcrZhryBXjOy7w

AznKnight82 i7-4770k @ 3.5GHz (haven't bothered to OC yet) eVGA GTX Titan Black (+ ACX cooler) @ +165 / +300 (have no idea how to read speeds, used PrecisionX) 76.7 FPS 3207 score ---- I have to say, the reference cooler might be better to use than the ACX cooler in my case. The hot air from the ACX cooler has almost no where to go in my 250D (and doesn't come out of the back as much as I would like, might need a stronger fan up-front, maybe Scythe GT AP-45). Could've pushed the GPU harder, but saw that these speeds were more-or-less standard for a 780ti, so stuck with those numbers. Plus, adding just a few more MHz added a few more degrees.

As a new owner of the Titan Black (and yes, I wanted it for the compute power, and gaming on the side ... I actually don't have any games other than D3 to play right now), I can say that the reference cooler is awesome. I ran Unigine Valley 1.0 on Extreme HD, with just factory settings, and I had 1202 MHz Core Clocks, it hit 82 C, and it didn't throttle down. The fan just ramped up and kept it locked at 82-83 C. I left it running on a loop for a little while (like 20-30 minutes). Wasn't even that loud. But hard to really compare since I came from a 2-year old laptop. I've also got the ACX cooler, but I don't think I'll have time to install it for another couple of weeks. Will overclock then. Did average about 67-68 fps with factory settings. Not sure if NCIX install team OC-ed my GPU. Didn't really pay attention. eVGA PrecisionX says everything is stock. If you just need a GPU for gaming, get a 780ti.