ChaoticChaosx

Have you tried the GPUs HDMI port or a different DP? Perhaps even the cable itself?
 
Cleared CMOS?
 
Checked RAM are in the correct spots or tried one at a time?
 
I don't think the GPU bracket or the screws for it have anything do with displaying an image or outputting a signal.

Yes, there should be. There's two methods:
On the main overclocking page, there should be a menu option for a PBO max temp and an optimization number. I forget exactly what this setting is called though (it's present on all motherboard manufacturers though).  In the AMD Overclocking menu, you should be able to mess with PBO settings and specifically the curve optimizer. The "PBO optimizations" in reality are just one click changes to the curve optimizer and the PBO temp limit, so you can just set them directly rather than the admittedly convenient setting on the front page. 

PBO can lead to pretty random crashes, so resetting BIOS will be a first step 🙂
 

If you can afford the 14700k, then get the 7800X3D

I wouldn't buy X670 again without a specific use case for it, the B650 options make so much more sense for like 90% of people. You're not giving up any performance or overclocking potential and just gaining an extra chipset that in my experience, can just end up with headaches and increased boot times. They try to make you believe you need X670 to have the best performance but its simply not true, I'm glad I see through that. 
 
We want to try to help others see that too. 

Ah, I see. True, good looking out. Depending on board quality I can get a new one. If they don't' check and/or test then for sure.

Yeah.  I mean it's just a sticky paste.  However you clean things will work, it's no more than wiping a goo off metal.
 
 

Ok, thank you!
 

I've had the Alienware DWF for about a year. I work from home and also use my computer a lot casually - the monitor is on probably about 10-12 hours per day. No problems with burn-in. I like this monitor a lot and recommend it to anybody that can afford it.

I never clone only fresh install so not to sure.
 
The only way to get from dynamic to basic is by deleting all volume on the drive which is all data on the drive but if it's just windows. Do a fresh install.

Could be dirty power. There’s more to it than just voltage. 
 
If you moved the other computer over, I would reseat all the components first. Something like a slightly loose ram stick can make it seem dead.

Definitely play with the SDR brightness slider in the HDR settings. I run mine at 25 simply to help with panel longevity. HDR content is unaffected by it but since you're viewing SDR content 90% of the time, it helps.

First off, AutoHDR only works in DX11 and DX12 titles. Vulkan and games that use DX9 and older graphic API's don't support AutoHDR at all.
 
On Windows 11 there is an easy and quick way to toggle HDR with the Windows + Alt + B hotkey.
 
Most - if not all - of these symptoms rely heavlily on the monitor in question. Some brands put more effort into HDR than others. The LG C2 i'm currently using has absolutely no problems running in HDR 24/7 even for games that don't support HDR or AutoHDR. There are no weird colors, low contrast etc. In my experience LG is by far the best display brand when it comes to software support and a general lack of software-related issues with their displays.
 
But if your display has issues with the SDR to HDR conversion, then it's recommended to use the shortcut i mentioned above and keep HDR disabled for SDR content.
 
 
I personally don't like AutoHDR. It is exactly what many people think of HDR, being just simply brighter SDR content. There is no higher dynamic range or wider color gamut. It's literally just the SDR content with "upscaled" brightness to match the same peak brightness as other HDR content. But since the whole scene gets brighter, it loses the impact that native HDR content brings. Additionally, it also can't differentiate between UI and the 3D-rendered scene, so if a game has white UI, it will always be blasting at full brightness, eg. 1000 nits on an HDR1000 monitor. In that case the UI actively takes away from the image quality, which is not what you want.
 
The AutoHDR feature is in no way a replacement for a good native HDR implementation is what i'm trying to say. And for that reason i've kept it disabled for the longest time. I'd rather play a game in good SDR than bad HDR.

You really should be set to 10-bit, as its a 10-bit display. HDR will require it anyway.

Specifically for your monitor you should alwasy use the 1000 nits mode for HDR content. Provided you're running the latest firmware there is no difference other than the higher peak brightness. So don't limit your experience by using the 400 True Black mode. 400 nits is barely enough to make HDR content pop.

In short higher color depth and contrast closer how we see in real life. 

srgb is the intended color gamut for most sdr content, but outdated imho, most srgb mode on monitors do look accurate, but an overwhelming majority of people i talk to like their colors at least slightly oversaturated. The only content i use srgb for is multiplayer fps games, battlebit, battlefield, cod.
 
for nearly all single player games i use adobe rgb.
 
For streaming and some games (cyberpunk 2077 i use hdr p3), for playing blu rays i use either p3 or rec2020 depending on which one looks better, take game of thrones for example, p3 looks better for outdoor scenes and 2020 looks on indoor scenes.
 
For ur monitor, i think the hdr true black mode is suitable for nearly all content, anime still looks better on argb.

It isn't as simple as saying it's "brighter".
 
First off, HDR content can use wider color spaces like D65-P3 and Rec.2020 which then results in a higher possible color saturation. Some HDR content still only uses the sRGB color space.
 
But the main thing it does change is how brightness works. In HDR content, the content creator decides what brightness it should have. The brightness values are then embedded into the content and your display will then interpret this signal to display the exact brightness that is asked for. So if the content calls for 100 nits, the display should show 100 nits. In SDR on the other hand the brightness is basically just a relative percentage, meaning some displays will show 100 nits on a 50% brightness patch, while another display with the exact same signal might be showing 300 nits with 50% brightness.
 
A common misconception is that HDR content is just brighter. That's wrong. Depending on your monitor habits, HDR content might look significantly dimmer than your typical SDR content (if you always used your monitors maxed out in brightness). But HDR has the additional brightness headroom to make highlights really pop out compared to the rest of the scene.
 
If the whole screen is bright in a scene, a bright headlight won't stand out. (SDR)
 
But if the whole screen is dimmer, and the headlight is very bright, it will stand out significantly. If the monitor has enough brightness headroom, then these highlights ideally should have a slight "blinding" effect similar to when you look into a headlight or the sun for example. (No worries, displays are nowhere near the brightness to where they can really simluate looking into the sun, so no eye damaging side effects)
 
You can also say that HDR content might not always be more comfortable to look at because of the big changes in brightness from scene to scene (the dynamic range), but it's almost always closer to how we'd perceive it in reality.
 
For HDR content it's recommended that you are in a dark environment. Because of the way the brightness works, HDR content overall might look too dim for daylight viewing. SDR content with brightness turned up to 11 can look better in this situation.
 
 
TL;DR:
The gross oversimplification would be: It doesn't always look subjectively better compared to SDR, especially in a bright room. But it almost always looks more realistic. And in a dark room, it's a huge difference when it comes to immersion.

After Running Memtest86 Ive narrowed it down, I have a bad RAM module, Going to RMA 
 
Thanks for the help!

I wouldn't worry about HDR. Proper HDR is very expensive and 'regular' HDR for gaming displays is only 'HDR' in name. Each time I've tried using it on a few displays over the past couple years, its never worked right. Windows is getting better about it, but its overall not worth concerning about yet in my opinion.
 
Regarding your actual question, if you're willing to fork the price, OLED is the way to go. It'll likely be my next upgrade, my only consideration right now is whether I want to go back to ultrawide or not (spent ~6 years on 34" ultrawide). My buddy upgraded his 34" UW to the 45" OLED UW from LG and says it was entirely worth it.
*for reference only*
LG UltraGear 45” OLED Curved WQHD 240Hz 0.03ms FreeSync and NVIDIA G-Sync Compatible Gaming Monitor with HDR10 Black 45GR95QE-B.AUS - Best Buy
 
Dell Alienware A3421DWF OLED winning my pick, heard good things about it.

True. My friend has almost returned 4 monitors trying to find the "true" HDR she wants. Insane. Hah.
 
Yeah 45" wouldn't even fit on my desk and far to big for me. 40" max...if that.
 
I mean for "only" $700 for the 3421dwf and OLED it's hard to pass on. Just I read DELL. Hah. Appreciate the information on the HDR though. Thought as much and like I said my friend being insane about it.

Yes, this post is (was) for my sister. Turns out she had monitor display cable in motherbaord not in GPU. LOL. Sorry to even post. Still appreciate the replies.

What? No, install the latest chipset driver. It sounds like you heard something very incorrect or just misunderstood talk about how 7950x3D works.
 
You certainly have been reading too much. Just install the new chipset driver. Don't uncheck anything. 
 
You have a 7800x3D, there is only one CCD and the whole thing has the 3D V-Cache. There is nothing to disable or enable, its just always working. 
 
As for your performance, what are you comparing this to? What is the full system spec and display resolution?

I don't think it makes a whole lot of sense to buy a new AM4 motherboard in your case. At this point, keep saving and watch the tech news for second-gen AM5 or 14th gen Intel. If you need something to tide you over until then, update your BIOS and get a relatively inexpensive third gen Ryzen.
 

Save and upgrade the whole thing. Can keep the RX6600, but you're sapping performance without PCIe 4.0, which you'd need a new CPU and motherboard to support. You can get a really good budget system with either the i3-13100 or i5-13400 and salvage your memory or replace it with AM5.