42thgamer

No. But you might as well. I always replace the stock paste with something better, not that it really makes a big difference.

Yes, it will continue to update. The reason that Windows asks to plug your laptop in is the that if your pc runs out of battery in the middle of an update it can mess up the whole system. so if you unplug it while it's updating make sure that you have enough battery left.
 
A friend of mine had it happen ones, And I had to get all her files of pc by booting via an USB stick and than reinstalling windows. But I have heard about files being corrupted after a sudden shutdown during an update.

The laptop will probably not accept that as power source and not charge or use it as extra power source.
If your laptop charges through usb type-c, it probably expects the charger on the other end to support some standards like USB Power Delivery, and with such standards, the charger has to tell the laptop what voltage and current combinations it supports, and the laptop can request a higher voltage  than 5v.
If the laptop isn't able to communicate with the charger, it will probably ignore it.
 
The laptop adapter for that HP Spectre x360 with the flat battery in the picture a few posts above can do  5v x 3A (15w) , 9v x 3A (27w) , 12v x 5A (60w) , 15v x 4.33A (65w) , 20v x 3.25A (65w).. if you charge it while using it, it will probably go to 20v ...
The current is kept low because higher currents means more losses in wires, in the usb cable..

Yeah, I would say so. The exclamation icon is probably there because of the "slow charger, not using it, use a proper charger with usb power delivery standard, to set it up how I like"   ... so it says I know something is plugged in the usb port, but can't use it.
 
Your slider is another thing ... at best performance, your laptop probably consumes 40-60 watts, but at where you are with the slider (better battery, a notch less than "best battery life", the laptop probably dims the screen, aggressively throttles down the cpu cores and so on, and your laptop probably hovers around 10-20w of power consumption.
The 5w may then be used to supplement the battery and lower the discharge rate, but I doubt it.
 
To charge a battery, normally the charger has to provide more power than what it's consumed by the laptop.

It's tricky because you don't know what battery is used in the external battery pack/power bank.
I'd say a simple answer would be to assume around 20-25% more than the rating of the battery you want to charge.
 
Your laptop expects some input voltage - either 12v or 18v or the voltage it's designed for through the DC input jack, or 5v / 12v / 20v through the USB type-c connectors.
 
Your power bank uses these lithium batteries, in parallel or in series, or a mix of parallel and series.  The Wh rating of your power bank is for the RAW capacity of the battery inside, not how much power the power bank can output through its connectors.
 
Regardless of how the batteries are arranged, there has to be a dc-dc converter which converts the battery voltage to the voltage the laptop demands through the usb type c connector (if your laptop charges through usb type c)
The laptop initially detects a power supply on the other end of the usb cable, and receives the default 5v from the power bank, and the laptop then sends some commands through the usb cable telling the charger to go to 12v or 20v or whatever voltage the laptop wants.
 
This conversion is not 100% efficient - let's say if the power bank has to go from 3.2v...4.2v to 5v, it may be 95% efficient, but if it has to go from 3.2v..4.2v to 12v it may only be 90% efficient... so only 90% of the actual battery "juice" actually comes out the power bank, the other 10% is heat.
Then, your laptop has to take that 12v and charge the batteries, but that charging process again isn't 100% efficient, though it should be close to 90-95% efficient.  That's another loss.
The laptop doesn't have a clue about the source of the electricity, it assumes it's DC power, and besides heat generated charging, they're not very concerned about how efficient the charging process it.
 
 
 

Phone batteries are most often made out of a single cell, a lithium battery with voltage between 3v...4.2v, but the average voltage is around 3.6v
There are some phones these days that use 2 or 3 batteries in series, so they can charge the battery pack faster using 12v or 20v from a charger (quickcharge, usb type c, whatever), but the number of such phones is very rare.
 
A lithium-ion battery will have a fully charged voltage  of 4.2v  ... as energy is taken from it, the battery is discharging and the voltage decreases down to around 3v..3.2v - below this threshold, the battery can no longer provide meaningful amount of current, it's discharged.
 
A typical laptop battery will be made by several such batteries in series to obtain a higher voltage. For example, having 4 batteries in series results in a voltage of  4 x 3v ... 4 x 4.2v  = 12v...16.8v  so they can use a 18-20v laptop adapter to charge the battery (the voltage should be higher than the peak charged voltage)
 
Here's an example of a battery from an Asus laptop, which uses 3S battery : 2 batteries at a time are in parallel , then these 3 groups are connected in series to obtain the higher voltage:
 
They rate the battery pack at 10.8v , which corresponds to  10.8v / 3 = 3.6v, which is the average voltage of a lithium battery (the battery charges up to 4.2v, but will quickly discharge down to around 3.6v..3.8v and will be fully discharged at around 3v)
The individual batteries are Panasonic CGR18650CG and you can download the datasheet here : CGR18650CG-Panasonic.pdf
But if you can't or don't want to, I can tell you they're presented as nominal voltage 3.6v, and standard capacity 2250 mA. The datasheet also contains a graph showing typical discharge rates ... and you can see that at a typical 1.0lt (2150mA , the green line ) the batteries will still do around 2100 Mah and then it will go below around 3.2v. You can also see that for most of those 2100mAh, the voltage will be 3.5v +- 0.1v so the nominal voltage of 3.6v is chosen well, they're not lying.
 
So Asus decided to rate the individual batteries at  2200mAh instead of 2150mAh - probably because the average power consumption won't be as high as 1.0lt so they're confident the batteries can do closer to 2200mAh.
They take two such batteries and put them in parallel, so that's where the 4400mAh comes from: 2 batteries in parallel = 2 x current of single battery.
Then they put 3 such groups in series, and the current / capacity remains the same but voltage triples ... so 3 x 3.6v = 10.8v , 4400 mAh (or 4.4Ah)
And from these two  10.8v and 4.4Ah you get the total power of 10.8v x 4.4Ah = 47.52Wh  or 47 Wh listed on the sticker in the picture.
 

 
 

I'm afraid it's difficult to find stock in the US as well.
 
I should mention that my prices were in USD at MSRP so convert that to Euros. Also, in the US, we don't include VAT in our prices, idk if Belgium does and whether or not the 1350 you quoted for your budget includes VAT. Prices for you might be much higher than the $1500-1600 USD range I quoted once you include VAT so have fun with that.

The Asus Flow X 13" is a good fit although it only comes with a 1650 and is slightly above your budget. LTT did a review or unboxing on it a few months ago and recommended the FHD+ version (there's also a 4k option but 4k at 13" is a waste). A few hundred dollars more will net you an entry level Asus G14, G15, Acer Triton 500 SE, or a Lenovo Legion 5 Pro which have an RTX 3060/3070 for around 1500 to 1600 if you could get one at msrp. The battery life will obviously be worse especially the Legion but the Asus G14 and G15 are noted for their great battery life considering their high end hardware (11 and 8.5 hours respectively). The Triton 500 SE has the largest battery I've seen recently with 99.9Whr (legal limit for aircraft is 100Whr) but the battery life isn't as good as the Asus options due to their superior battery management software. The Legion option is the only one with a numpad but reviews have complained about its trackpad location which is offset to the left and could take some getting used to. The G14 is 14" and everything else is 15" or 16" but it's important to note that the 16" have the same footprint as the 15" due to their smaller bezels so there's no increase in size. The G14 is also more expensive than the G15 for the same level of hardware with a lower resolution screen (FHD vs QHD). Also, the taller aspect ratio of the Triton and Legion is really nice and their screen are significantly brighter but you are giving up battery life.
 
Some might recommend non-traditional manufactures like Clevo which have better specs but for gaming notebooks, their battery life is significantly worse. Another thing you might have to consider is a webcam with the delta variant and all (idk how it is in Belgium). I'm shopping for a laptop for college as well so you have to consider if you're ok with lugging around an external camera  which will take up an extra USB port (it obviously will have better video quality but it's college, so blurry 720p is more than enough, it's not a Hollywood production).

Yeah, that's no problem! Just be sure to quote me or @SpiderMan when you post a reply. 

Is it possible you can find the 1st one with a AZERTY layout?? The GeForce 1650 Ti that comes with it has 4 GB of VRAM, while this one only has 2GB. It'll make a big difference in gaming. 

They pretty much only max out at 100Whr (it could be less). There is a 82Whr battery in this laptop. I would expect at least 3 hours of battery life with a laptop like this. 
 
A 13" you can just slip in and out of the backpack easily and not take up as much room for notes. You're pretty much looking for a high-end 2-in-1 laptop. 

Here are two (I live in the US and I don't know of any Belgium stores, sorry) 
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-rog-zephyrus-g14-14-laptop-amd-ryzen-7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1650-512gb-ssd/6466255.p?
 
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Modern-Professional-Laptop-IPS-Level/dp/B08R9GFYJQ/ref=sr_1_18?

Ok, for the ones that are installed like  E:\Steam\steamapps\common install them in the folder which they are. It should work. i dont know what to do about the other one.

@SpiritWrath  & @42thgamer
If I fold during the summer it'll be at half capacity with the remote rig in the garage over WiFi for heat reasons. House already stays at 77F indoors while outdoors is 90-100F and with an extra 250w/PC of heat that's comfort suicide in addition to lots of extra AC.

Great vid on the server. for a weak sys shes running great and doesnt sow down anything i try to do. keep it up guys, were all making a difference.
 

I got a million points!  I don't know what that means, but it's a million, so likely worth a cookie!
 

I dont see any major pattern... only really this sunday tbh 

No, stats got broken and a lot of the points from Friday and Saturday went missing and then were credited on Sunday.

You might get a bit of a boost from the last video to.
 

Except for a handful of hiccups that require the odd tinker with I'm 6/6 all day.

Are you claiming that we need scheduled posts feature here?
 

No idea how that is possible, Rosetta is not distributing GPU work units:
 

Haha I will be grabbing another 2060 or 2070 when I see a good deal. Don't think I will beat my 260GBP 2070 though

I know this is not a Rosetta@Home thread but it is also about covit-19! They also have so many folders that they are struggling to keep up! Awesome!