JovanD

If you can get a UPS with lifepo4 battery that would be best, most lead acids get issues after 2 years, it's luck of a draw if you get worse capacity(best case scenario) or they become unusable(large voltage drops on normal loads) suddenly. Best deal might be to look for used UPS with dead batteries and than swap in lifepo4 pack.

Also holy moly 1250w is more than 100 Amps at 12v, that's almost like an entry level welding machine I wonder if OCP would trip if some one tried to stick weld with that bad boy

750w is enough, but 850w might be less loud on equal load. Are you looking at PSUs from same model series?

Main issue with older models of power supplies even higher end ones is that they had multi rail design, but they didn't label which cable was on which rail, so that was annoying if you wanted to run multiple GPUs and use molex to pci adapters. That Antec is kinda like x3 220W PSUs in one box, still useful though.

Can we talk about how it's cheaper than a HoloLens 2? I don't see the fuss about the price, it's in the name Apple Vision Pro Although that word got used so much in consumer marketing that people got desensitized to it, but than again Apple's marketing material seem to indicate it's a consumer device. I kinda don't blame them though since Microsoft already has sunk decently deep roots in commercial/industrial segment with HoloLens and Meta is dominating the gaming segment, so my guess is Apple just went with "Lifesytyle device". My guess is during the long 16 year development somewhere in the beginning it was meant to be an commercial/enterprise device, but it got steered in many directions along the way, so we ended up with a device with commercial pricing and specs, but consumer marketing material.

Not a lot of people talk about the EXTERNAL pc heat issue, its especially problematic in loft rooms or small rooms. My advice would be to get 15cm (or similar diameter) kitchen hood hose, they are cheaper, but you might need to insulate them with a cloth or something so it doesn't transfer heat to your room or get a portable AC exhaust hose, they are prettier and made of plastic so won't conduct much heat. And than just vent the heat from your case out the window, you can get portable AC window adapters too if you don't feel like cutting up wood or foam board. Additional fan at the end of the hose might help, you don't need a PC fan for that, to make cabling easier there are mains power fans that are small like pc fans.

Im more interested how the hell did the USB port survive? Since im assuming the cables were being ripped at perpendicular or worse angle. The connector plug and bit of cable that is close to the connector plug are common failure points even in normal operation.

Use tape to block 2nd and 3rd pin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#Pinout) on the GPU so you don't get in to a situation where you're connecting 2 ATX PSU's in parallel.

Test it out of pc first like this https://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/atx_psu_startup/ (don't need a switch for testing piece of wire is good enough) If you don't have a multimeter you can use a spare case fan or some simple 12 volt device like a dc motor to test 12volt(yellow wires) and 5volt(red wires) outputs, if it works than you won't have much problems. Old units might have problems handling overload loads (120-150%) if those big 450v capacitors dry up, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem since buck converters on motherbard/gpu have their own capacitors, you should be good if you don't push it too hard, components in quality PSUs are rated for around 10 years minimum and even after that if the capacitors are the weak link they degrade linearly, so it can be working good enough for 20+ years, but might not be able to handle torture loads like a new unit.

When im in that situation, i usually just cut the connector from fan cable and push the wires in to molex, 5v for mid speed and low noise, 12v for full speed, fan only needs 2 wires (right (GND) and middle one (VCC)) Forgot to mention if you want it to be less destructive you can push out the pins from fan connector with a needle and put them back later if you wan to use that fan normally in the future, just make sure to look up the pinouts on google to not get confused.

Ali board has x2 nvme slots and x10 sata ports(really tempting) I forgot DDR5 exists now gonna have to add extra 30eur to the equasion, nearing 50% on the cost side. There's also instruction set benefits of newer platform boosting single core performance in orders of magnitude on certain tasks and much lower electricity cost, although electricity is relatively cheap here, but it can add up over the years. Im still conflicted, although leaning more on Ryzen side.

I was browsing Aliexpress and i stumbled on to this board and i figured it would go vary well with x2 Xeon E5 2699v3's pair that with cheap server RAM and i could have a 64GB beast with 36 cores for 350EUR which seems like a dream deal. As far as im aware in multithreaded load like CGI rendering (which i do some times) those 2 Xeons have almost similar horsepower to a Ryzen 9 7900x, but im aware that there's a catch with using Dual CPUs and also single core performance is 60% less on the Xeons. I know that would impact gaming and some mesh processing operations (C4D is a pile of shit some times ), but im wondering is it worth the cost savings? Even if i opt for a cheaper Ryzen 9 5900x with a decent enough motherboard and more expensive normal RAM it would cost me 530EUR and f i opt for 7900x it would be 630EUR. So that's about 30% cost saving for 40% less single core performance (but better multicore) if i go 5900x or 40% cost saving for 60% less single core performance for 7900x, would it be worth it? Note, i game on 1080p monitor, also i game in VR, but im not bothered by below 90 frame rates much, 45 and up is mostly playable for me. Another note i wouldn't count on warranty in both cases since aliexpress is aliexpress and new ryzen parts i would be getting from smugglers since VAT and single company monopoly on tech retail stores makes prices in my area insane.

I tried messaging Riello, also messaged any distributers that had AROS UPSs on their website and also messaged ebay sellers selling USP from same series. Best i got was a an user manual, which is nice since you can't really find that online too.

Power supplies are always useful, especially if you do hobby electronics, cases can be used as night stands or mini coffee tables, motherboards can be used as wall decor if you have many of then and you paint them it can be a good look. like thiis or this

Full ATX cube cases with horizontal motherboard layout were always vary rare, im curious is there any "worthy successor" a decade later?

No, best card for the price to performance ratio with reasnable minimum threashold is regular 1080. I am saying it's the best card period. As for title, depends on what you consider arguing vs discussion, but yes the title is meant to encourage discussion, participation is voluntary

Is it(3070) really worth it at 4 times the cost and 3GB less VRAM?

Objectively show me a card that performs faster and has more VRAM for $150 or less.

If you don't count raytracing, its faster than RTX 4060 at less than half the cost (used).

Doesn't host any files.

Program i need is "AROS watch & save" it is a UPS device management software for AROS Sentinel 5 series UPS devices. Manufacturer's website aros.it redirects to riello-ups.com suggesting that they probably got bought out at some point, but i can't find the software on new company's website or anywhere else for the matter. Any help would be much appreciated.

Yup, maybe i should have used the word "get video playback" instead of "watch", im a bit puzzled since i never thought watch means watch and enjoy looking at it . Also there is no such thing as minimum resolution for being able to comfortably watch video because our perception of image quality is dependent also on how big and how far away the screen is. So for example a small 480p screen can look like it has better image quality than a giant 1080p screen that is too close. For VR 1080p is just horrible, it feel like 80p on normal screen Also type of screen, subpixel arrangement and shape play a role in image quality perception, although that's mostly relevant for VR headsets. Interesting thing about 480p (and generally lower res content) will look better on a CRT screen than on LCD because of the way electron beam works and the way light scatters on that phosphor grid it creates sort of a mechanical upscaling/anti-aliasing, gamers who grew up in PS1 days will know what im talking about.

Is 1080p really a requirement for video to play?

This is just my curiosity, doesn't have to be android or official YT app, maybe just loading video on browser.

Im too much used to that aspect ratio.