avg123
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Posts posted by avg123
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Will there be a WAN show tomorrow?
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Is WAN Show happening?
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Louis Rossmann on Linus SA
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Only manufacturer making buckling spring keyboards like the IBM model m is unicomp but they are ugly af. why doesnt other manufacturers make them? I am sure many people will buy them. They sound and feel better than mechanical switches according to youtube reviews which have compared them
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very smart of them to allow discussion on their forum so most of it remains on their platform
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has Linus denied all the accusations?
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Has linus said anything about madisons tweets?
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unrolled thread of everything madison said:
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2 hours ago, LAwLz said:
I am not sure if this is intentional or not, but if you set the GoPro Hero 7 (the first GoPro I could find) to 16x9 with 0% zoom, you get 69.5 degrees vertical FOV and 118.2 degrees horizontal FOV. So that matches the human vision very well.
If you were to change the sensor you'd also have to change the lens in order for it to stay the same FOV.
But Gopros have fish eye distortion, human eyes don't. What camera lens/sensor combination would give a image equivalent to human eye without distortion?
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3 hours ago, LAwLz said:
That's not really how it works.
The video would still be 16:9 no matter what lens you use, because that's the ratio of the active part of the sensor.
Changing the lens would not alter which part of the sensor is active. Changing to a less wide-angle lens would cause things in the middle of the lens to become bigger though, and you'd see less stuff in the peripherals. How much it would change depends on which lens you'd use.
Here is a picture that explains it visually. In this picture, the GoPro's lens would be the one labeled "14mm". Switching the lens out to the 35mm would make everything in the center look bigger, thus making you see less in the peripheral view. It wouldn't change the size of the image itself though, since that's based on the sensor.
Which of these is equivalent to human eye and what aspect ratio sensor would we need to cover the field of view in 14mm
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Gopros have a fish eye lens to fit a larger field of vision in the 16:9 aspect ratio video
If it did not have fish eye lens, what aspect ratio of sensor/video would it need to cover the same field of vision?
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4 hours ago, OhioYJ said:
I assume when you try and trim or cut you are getting the error about about "* frames"? That's why you ask? Don't leave Video Output on Copy, change it (x264, or x265). This will technically re-encode the video, but it's quick, and uses what you are used to. You can leave Audio on copy.
No problem I have is the cut always starts and ends at a key frame. Sometimes I want it to start or end at a frame that is not a key frame but that is not possible.
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I want to decompress x264 and x265 videos. what software do I need for that and how do I do that.
I know its a lossy compression and I will not get back the original video.
I just want to trim sections out of the videos without having to deal with i, p or b frames. I want to trim at the exact frame I point to and its not possible with compressed videos. (I use Avidemux to trim videos)
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Flash drive was working fine a few days.
I used the "Recovery Drive Creator" app in Windows to make the flash drive a Recovery Drive,
But now I can no longer fornat the drive
When I try to format the drive I get error "Disk is write protected"
I tried everything. I tried diskpart method, i downloaded easeUS partition manager trial and nothing works.
DISKPART> select disk 1 Disk 1 is now the selected disk. DISKPART> detail disk Sony Storage Media USB Device Disk ID: 954C003A Type : USB Status : Online Path : 0 Target : 0 LUN ID : 0 Location Path : UNAVAILABLE Current Read-only State : Yes Read-only : No Boot Disk : No Pagefile Disk : No Hibernation File Disk : No Crashdump Disk : No Clustered Disk : No Volume ### Ltr Label Fs Type Size Status Info ---------- --- ----------- ----- ---------- ------- --------- -------- Volume 5 E RECOVERY FAT32 Removable 14 GB Healthy
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15 minutes ago, Alex Atkin UK said:
Unfortunately all bets are off with laptop RAM, it depends on what the BIOS decides with no user control over it (at least not on any I've seen).
My guess is your old RAM didn't have a 1.35v profile and the BIOS is picking the fastest it can do at the lowest voltage.
Yes the old RAM modules did not support DDR3L standard. They were just 1.5V.
Is it a fault of the RAM sticks? Do I need to replace it? Would buying RAM with different CAS get me 1600Mhz?
I bought the cheapest RAM I could find and they are all Hynix DDR3L. I thought of upgrading to SSD instead of spending too much on RAM.
Would 1600Mhz make a big difference over 1333 MHz? Is it worth spending more money?
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HWiNFO64 Version 7.42-5030 DESKTOP ----------------------------------------------------------- [Current Computer] [Operating System] Memory -------------------------------------------------------------------- [General Information] Total Memory Size: 16 GBytes Total Memory Size [MB]: 16384 [Current Performance Settings] Maximum Supported Memory Clock: 666.7 MHz Current Memory Clock: 665.2 MHz Current Timing (tCAS-tRCD-tRP-tRAS): 9-9-9-24 Memory Channels Supported: 2 Memory Channels Active: 2 Command Rate (CR): 1T Read to Read Delay (tRDRD_DG/TrdrdScDlr) Different Bank Group: 1T Read to Read Delay (tRDRD_DD) Different DIMM: 3T Write to Write Delay (tWRWR_DG/TwrwrScDlr) Different Bank Group: 3T Write to Write Delay (tWRWR_DD) Different DIMM: 3T Read to Write Delay (tRDWR_SG/TrdwrScL) Same Bank Group: 3T Read to Write Delay (tRDWR_DG/TrdwrScDlr) Different Bank Group: 3T Read to Write Delay (tRDWR_DD) Different DIMM: 3T Write to Read Delay (tWRRD_SG/TwrrdScL) Same Bank Group: 5T Write to Read Delay (tWRRD_DG/TwrrdScDlr) Different Bank Group: 1T Write to Read Delay (tWRRD_DD) Different DIMM: 1T Read to Precharge Delay (tRTP): 5T Write to Precharge Delay (tWTP): 21T Write Recovery Time (tWR): 10T RAS# to RAS# Delay (tRRD): 4T Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC): 174T Four Activate Window (tFAW): 20T Row: 0 [BANK 0/DIMM0] - 8 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM SK Hynix HMT41GS6BFR8A-PB [General Module Information] Module Number: 0 Module Size: 8 GBytes Memory Type: DDR3 SDRAM Module Type: SO-DIMM Memory Speed: 800.0 MHz (DDR3-1600 / PC3-12800) Module Manufacturer: SK Hynix Module Part Number: HMT41GS6BFR8A-PB Module Revision: 12366 Module Serial Number: 1291290884 (0489F74C) Module Manufacturing Date: Year: 2015, Week: 28 Module Manufacturing Location: 1 SDRAM Manufacturer: SK Hynix Error Check/Correction: None [Module Characteristics] Row Address Bits: 16 Column Address Bits: 10 Number Of Banks: 8 Module Density: 4096 Mb Number Of Ranks: 2 Device Width: 8 bits Bus Width: 64 bits Module Nominal Voltage (VDD): 1.5 V, 1.35 V [Module timing] Minimum SDRAM Cycle Time (tCKmin): 1.250 ns CAS# Latencies Supported: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Minimum CAS# Latency Time (tAAmin): 13.125 ns Minimum RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCDmin): 13.125 ns Minimum Row Precharge Time (tRPmin): 13.125 ns Minimum Active to Precharge Time (tRASmin): 35.000 ns Supported Module Timing at 800.0 MHz: 11-11-11-28 Supported Module Timing at 666.7 MHz: 9-9-9-24 Supported Module Timing at 533.3 MHz: 7-7-7-19 Supported Module Timing at 400.0 MHz: 6-6-6-14 Supported Module Timing at 333.3 MHz: 5-5-5-12 Minimum Write Recovery Time (tWRmin): 15.000 ns Minimum Row Active to Row Active Delay (tRRDmin): 6.000 ns Minimum Active to Active/Refresh Time (tRCmin): 48.125 ns Minimum Refresh Recovery Time Delay (tRFCmin): 260.000 ns Minimum Internal Write to Read Command Delay (tWTRmin): 7.500 ns Minimum Internal Read to Precharge Command Delay (tRTPmin): 7.500 ns Minimum Four Activate Window Delay Time (tFAWmin): 30.000 ns [Features] Partial Array Self Refresh (PASR): Not Supported On-die Thermal Sensor (ODTS) Readout: Not Supported Auto Self Refresh (ASR): Not Supported Extended Temperature 1X Refresh Rate: Not Supported Extended Temperature Range: Supported Module Temperature Sensor: Not Supported Pseudo Target Row Refresh (pTRR): Supported Maximum Active Window (MAW): 64 mS Unlimited MAC: Supported Maximum Active Window (MAW): Unknown (not tested) Module Nominal Height: 29 - 30 mm Module Maximum Thickness (Front): 1 - 2 mm Module Maximum Thickness (Back): 1 - 2 mm Row: 2 [BANK 0/DIMM0] - 8 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM SK Hynix HMT41GS6BFR8A-PB [General Module Information] Module Number: 2 Module Size: 8 GBytes Memory Type: DDR3 SDRAM Module Type: SO-DIMM Memory Speed: 800.0 MHz (DDR3-1600 / PC3-12800) Module Manufacturer: SK Hynix Module Part Number: HMT41GS6BFR8A-PB Module Revision: 12366 Module Serial Number: 1291290884 (0489F74C) Module Manufacturing Date: Year: 2015, Week: 28 Module Manufacturing Location: 1 SDRAM Manufacturer: SK Hynix Error Check/Correction: None [Module Characteristics] Row Address Bits: 16 Column Address Bits: 10 Number Of Banks: 8 Module Density: 4096 Mb Number Of Ranks: 2 Device Width: 8 bits Bus Width: 64 bits Module Nominal Voltage (VDD): 1.5 V, 1.35 V [Module timing] Minimum SDRAM Cycle Time (tCKmin): 1.250 ns CAS# Latencies Supported: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Minimum CAS# Latency Time (tAAmin): 13.125 ns Minimum RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCDmin): 13.125 ns Minimum Row Precharge Time (tRPmin): 13.125 ns Minimum Active to Precharge Time (tRASmin): 35.000 ns Supported Module Timing at 800.0 MHz: 11-11-11-28 Supported Module Timing at 666.7 MHz: 9-9-9-24 Supported Module Timing at 533.3 MHz: 7-7-7-19 Supported Module Timing at 400.0 MHz: 6-6-6-14 Supported Module Timing at 333.3 MHz: 5-5-5-12 Minimum Write Recovery Time (tWRmin): 15.000 ns Minimum Row Active to Row Active Delay (tRRDmin): 6.000 ns Minimum Active to Active/Refresh Time (tRCmin): 48.125 ns Minimum Refresh Recovery Time Delay (tRFCmin): 260.000 ns Minimum Internal Write to Read Command Delay (tWTRmin): 7.500 ns Minimum Internal Read to Precharge Command Delay (tRTPmin): 7.500 ns Minimum Four Activate Window Delay Time (tFAWmin): 30.000 ns [Features] Partial Array Self Refresh (PASR): Not Supported On-die Thermal Sensor (ODTS) Readout: Not Supported Auto Self Refresh (ASR): Not Supported Extended Temperature 1X Refresh Rate: Not Supported Extended Temperature Range: Supported Module Temperature Sensor: Not Supported Pseudo Target Row Refresh (pTRR): Supported Maximum Active Window (MAW): 64 mS Unlimited MAC: Supported Maximum Active Window (MAW): Unknown (not tested) Module Nominal Height: 29 - 30 mm Module Maximum Thickness (Front): 1 - 2 mm Module Maximum Thickness (Back): 1 - 2 mm
My Laptop does support 1600 Mhz and the previous 2 modules were running at 1600 mhz at 1.5v
These ones are running at 1333Mhz at 1.35v
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13 hours ago, GoodBytes said:
Microsoft Linked accounts needs to have a password/pin/Windows Hello login. You need something is what I am saying.
That said, Microsoft does have a tool on its sites for automatically logging in:
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/autologon
He has a local account, not a Microsoft linked account and he wants to keep it that way.
He does not want to auto login. He wants to have a password because he has little kids. His previous password was a 5 digit number and he wants his new password to be also a simple number.
But when he tries to create a simple numeric password like before he gets an error saying his password is too simple and needs to be more complex.
There is no way around it. He has to create a complex password like Windows wants, but then he can create a simple numeric pin ans use that to login just like he did before. But the password has to be stronger.
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On 4/13/2023 at 5:33 AM, Mingablo said:
Hey guys. I'm really hoping someone can help me here because I'm about to explode from the frustration. I have windows 10 pro, 64 bit, currently version 21H2, though the problem was also on 22H2. I have a custom PC with a ryzen 5 2600 cpu, 16GB of Ram, an Rx580 gpu, and a my OS is installed on a 256GB SSD. I think this is all the information that's needed. Please let me know if there is anything else. I've included a bunch of screengrabs here: https://imgur.com/a/jagXpxE
Four days ago, after installing update 22h2. My computer gave me a prompt to change the password on my local account before I logged in. My original password was just 5 numbers. It was simple because I have young kids and wanted to maintain a bit of security while still letting them log in (the password to the admin account was and is complex and did not change, nor does it need too).
I was away for a while so today I attempted to change the password back to something simple and have been constantly stymied by the error message:
"The password you entered doesn't meet the requirements, try one that's longer or more complex".
I've been able to solve most of my tech problems by just looking up the answer and following some online instructions, so I gave it a shot. Four hours and over a dozen failed solutions later and I've all but given up. Here's the broad strokes of what I've tried.
- Rolling back the update to 21h2 (same error message).
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Removing passwords altogether via netplwiz (no check box).
a) Going into regedit and changing the device password key value from 2 to 0 did not restore the box.
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Using the command prompt to change to a simple password (same error message).
a) By leaving the password section blank and typing (C:Windows\system32>net user "user" "") I was actually able to remove the password entirely so login is automatic - but this is not ideal.
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Going into the group policy editor and changing "password must meet complexity requirements" to "disabled" (nothing changed, same error message).
a) It was actually already disabled.
b) I did force it to update via "gpupdate/force" in the elevated command prompt and restarted my machine but there was no effect.
c) Enabling complexity requirements but setting minimum passwords length to 4 characters, enabling "Relax minimum password length limits" (nothing changed with any combination).
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Going into the local security policy and changing "password must meet complexity requirements" to "disabled" (nothing changed, same error message).
a) This was also disabled by default.
b) I read somewhere that a domain control may overwrite group policy editor but this is a personal version of windows 10 pro and there is no domain controller.
c) I even installed the active directory administrative center to check b).
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Trying to disable windows hello because I heard this requires password requirements it by default but windows hello wasn't enabled in the first place (nothing).
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Logging in with a Microsoft account rather than a local account (didn't change anything)
a) I was grasping at straws by this point.
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Needless to say I have restarted and rebooted my PC and few times during this process.
Please tell me there's something stupid I've missed. I've been unable to let this go all afternoon. I won't call it a total loss because I kinda enjoy the puzzle solving aspect of troubleshooting and I've learned a bit about my PC but now I just want it to be over.
Use a pin instead of password.
windows differentiates between passwords and pins. Passwords must be alphanumeric and pins can be just numeric.
Just make the password to something you can remember easily.
Then got to windows settings and add a pin to your account. That can be a simple number.
After you do this, you can log in to your windows using both the password or the pin.
After your lock your windows, it will always ask for the pin first. Enter the pin and you will be logged in.
You can also login to the same account using the password if you choose to but you will have to select "login using password".
Windows changed this because if you have an online account, the windows password is also your Microsoft account password and you may not be comfortable typing out your Microsoft account password everytime you want to log in incase some one looks at your password.
Using a pin instead of your password makes it safer because even if some one figures out your pin, it's very easy to change the pin and the pin cam only be used to log in to windows, nothing else unlike your password which can be used to change a lot of settings.
TLDR: ITS A SECURITY FEATURE IMPLEMENTED BY MICROSOFT. JUST CREATE A PIN.
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If Microsoft is still giving the free upgrade to Windows 11 offer, then upgrade your PC and claim the offer.
After you upgrade, your key will be valid for both Windows 10 and 11.
If you don't like Windows 11, you will have 30 days to downgrade back to Windows 10.
But now if you ever need Windows 11 in the future for some reason, you would not need to buy a Windows 11 key as your existing key will work
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Ask them if they have the product key for the MS Office or not. If they have the MS Office product key, then you can activate the MS Office again after clean reinstall.
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9 hours ago, NumLock21 said:
How did you upgrade from Home to Pro?
Through digital license.
Originally my laptop came with a OEM key for Windows 10 Home which was great for everything except that it did not have bitlocker which my other laptop had because it came with Windows 10 pro and basic encryption of harddrive should not be a "pro" feature. That is a basic requirement.
So I installed forced installed Windows 10 Pro without activation key.
The installed windows 10 pro was inactivated.
Then I used kms to activate it for 180 days.
Then I upgraded the kms activated windows 10 pro to windows 11 pro because Microsoft was giving free upgrades from Windows 10 to Windows 11.
So now I have a Windows 10 pro/ Windows 11 pro license tied to my hardware ID permanently without needing to do anything else even if I fresh install.
But I also have the Windows 10 Home key saved to my BIOS and a Windows 10 Home recovery Environment
So whenever I install Windows from a multi edition iso, whether it is Windows 10 or Windows 11, it always uses the saved oem key to activate, rather than relying on relying on hardware Id to activate the pro version.
All this PITA because I needed bitlocker.
Now I cant reset my windows 11 pro because it does not recognise the Windows 10 Home Recovery Environment already present in my hard drive.
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Background:
QuoteMy HP laptop originally came with Windows 10 Home. It also came with a Windows 10 Home Recovery Environment Partition which you can still use to restore to OEM Windows 10 Home.
Now I had upgraded my Windows 10 Home to Windows 10 Pro but the Recovery Environment still stayed as Windows 10 Home, meaning if I recovered from the RE, it would still install Windows 10 Home
I think the key for Windows 10 Home is baked into the BIOS because if I install Windows 10 from a multi edition ISO, and chose " Install without product key" it will always install Windows 10 Home.
I have to manually create a Windows 10 Pro Only installation media to force install Windows 10 Pro.
Now I had again upgraded the Windows 10 Pro to Windows 11 Pro for free. Same thing happens again. If I install from Windows 11 multi edition, it will always install Windows 11 Home edition unless I create a Installation Media with only Windows 11 Pro.
But the recovery Environment for the laptop is still Windows 10 Home meaning if I boot into the recovery environment and reinstall Windows, it will still install Windows 10 Home after all this time
Now to my problem now. At present my laptop is running Windows 11 Pro. i have a lot of stuff downloaded to my Downloads folder. I just want to reset my Pc without losing my files.
When I do this, it says
I googled and found websites that told to check if recovery environment is enabled using command line
This is where I am stuck right now. I just want to reset this pc without losing my downloaded data
. I dont have enough space anywhere to just copy the files somewhere and fresh install Windows. Somebody please help 
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My old Toshiba C870 laptop is not booting up. It was giving the CMOS battery low message for a couple of days and I had to set time and date before booting.
Today it also showed that message but this time after setting time and date, the laptop does not boot up.
I replaced the CMOS battery. Waited 1 hour after taking out old battery and putting in new one.
But laptop simply does not boot up. I can go into bios, change boot order but it does not boot up from harddrive or usb.
I have checked the hard drive in another hard drive and it is fine, I have checked usb drive with windows 10 installation and it is also fine.
I have replaced ram sticks, tried booting up without the DVD drive and hard drive, directly into usb drive but nothing works.
I have to mention the laptop battery is completely dead and laptop does not turn on without it being plugged in but this was the case for a long time with no problem.
When the laptop turns on, it just show a blank screen, then restarts and show a unblinking cursor at the left top corner of screen for sometime and restarts again and keeps doing this
Any word on when the week of downtime officially ends?
in General Discussion
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Will there be WAN show today?