SneerRolts

Ooops I may have complicated matters for the sake of your purposes for now. You would need to do a manual overclock at first to find out the best voltage/speed for your cooling setup. If you know nothing about overclocking I would recommend watching this video: On other motherboard brands some of the options will be in different headings/menus but it will give you a good general idea. That video should give you a very good idea how to set a voltage then stress test then adjust as needed (or repeat until success is had). You would need to put it to go up to 4.7GHz, then play around with the voltage to find out the sweet spot. You always want to stress test to find out if it works. If it is working then go down until it stops working then one up and stress test for a longer test. If it passes great, if it fails go up one more notch and repeat. Once you know what voltage and speed leave you with a temperature on your CPU that wont mean it will die young, then you mess about with adaptive overclocks. Overclock the CPU first, then do the RAM afterwards just to avoid any other issues. The CPU clock is whats going to make a much performance increase overall. 8700K cpus run hot because the motherboards pump more power into them than they need by default. Reason being they are set to send the highest amount of voltage for a badly binned CPU to get a successful overclock, rather than the average or your one if you have the chosen CPU foretold by the gods upon one summers night. The lower voltage being fed to your CPU for it to do its job properly the less hot it will run. Worst case scenario if your cooler is the limiting factor and you don't want water-cooling then the best air cooler (which I use) is noctua nh-d15. So getting a maximum of 78C at load after 3 hours is possible on air, probably better with an case that allowed a bit more airflow than mine... that's with mine OC'd to 4.9GHz. Make sense? I could have massively oversimplified it for you (as I don't know your knowledge level) or been unclear. P.S. If no matter what you do, you cant get it run much cooler, it could just be a really really really bad cpu. Luck of the draw and that.

I would point you over to my thread/post: Your default bios settings are pumping to much voltage causing it to heat up drastically. That said if you got your temps to 80C then you would be fine. I am air cooled but with a beefier heatsink. Core ratio which is 49 means 4.9GHz speed.. so just lower it to 47 for 4.7GHz I havent done any RAM OC so cant comment on that part.

Thanks for the posts. The loss of a headphone jack isn't important to me as no idea when the last time was I actually used headphones. Hadn't even heard of the P20, have added it into the list on the price ranking side of things.

I am looking to upgrade from my Samsung Galaxy S5 as it is now showing its age. I don't use my phone mostly for business usage so a lot of emails & taking photos (zero gaming as use a PC for that). No set budget but I would rather spend less than pay more for diminishing returns, I want a phone which should last me for the next 3-4 years again. Is the S9 worth the 32% uplift over the S8? Are any of the others? I don't want to just go with the same company out of habit though so have looked around at the other brands and the phones that I have come across seem to be as per below. Ranked them in order of price (most expensive to least). If you were in my place, what would you go for? Google Pixel 2 (£699) Samsung Galaxy S9 International Version (£554.50) Huawei P20 (£535) Sony Xperia XZ2 (£522) OnePlus 6 (£498) LG V30 (£490) Huawei Mate 10 Pro (£470) Samsung Galaxy S8 (£419) Personally I am leaning towards the S8 due to it being the cheapest, if there is something which is almost the same but less expensive I am open to it. Let me know your thoughts as I am far from knowledgeable on mobile phones! P.S. I haven't forgotten about the iPhone, I am just not a fan of them personally so rather stick with an Android device.

@Jun Wei Goh Asus Boards have LLC (Load-Line Calibration) with 1 as the weakest, 7 strongest. So on your motherboard go for just over half way, if you are getting too much droop then increase the LLC to compensate. @syn2112 Haha indeed, same on mine. Works like a charm. Good thing you posted you had the same issue or I wouldn't have put the answer in this thread. Who knows someone else googling for a solution may come across it now as I know when I searched nobody seemed to have had the same issue.

@syn2112 so after much tweaking and playing around I have sold the issue. Basically put it on adaptive, load into windows and stress test to see how much it vcore it wants to send to the CPU then reboot to get into BIOS and use the offset voltage it to get it to the level you want. You should know via testing in Manual mode to find out the stable OC voltage that works for your CPU. So if it was pushing 1.28v and you want 1.32v then you would want an offset voltageof 0.04. My settings: AVX Instruction core ratio negative offset: 3 SVID Behaviour - Best Case CPU Core Ratio - Sync All Cores Core Ratio Limit - 49 SVID Support - Enabled BCLK Aware Adaptive Voltage - Disabled Adaptive voltage - Auto Offset Voltage - 0.035 .External Digi+ Power Control: LLC - Level 5 .Internal CPU Power Management: Long/Short Duration Package Power Limit: 255 IA AC/DC Load Lines - 0.01 .Advanced> CPU Power Management Control CPU C-States - Enabled If I havent mentioned changing any other ones then chances are its the default setting but do feel free to query away. Obviously I cant state that this will work for you or is the best and most official overclock as I've been tweaking away back and forth for ages... however for me it lets me have a consistent overclock at 4.9GHz without the CPU getting too warm and is stable. Plus when in windows and idle it lowers the speed/voltage like was the end goal.Tested in prime95 for 8 hours and all seems nice and stable with temperatures not exceeding 75C. If you have any issues with stability, disable c-states or up the voltage slightly.

@Jurrunio No worries, thanks for the help. I just upgraded from a 2500K myself, it was so worth it even with the hassle of the adaptive mode on this mobo.

If you touched a radiator before handling the components then you shouldn't have done any static damage. I always build in carpeted rooms and not once lost something to static. Dispute it with ebay/Paypal if you suspect the parts themselves are broken, if its 2nd hand there is no guarantee it was working in the first place. Just to double check the motherboard is the correct chipset for the CPU? Im sure it is just had to ask as friend recently had an issue similar for the 8th gen CPUs when he got the older chipset.... sadly this probably isnt your issue but thought I would mention it.

And I am guessing none of the above changed things? Does the same happen if you lower your overclock by 100MHz? So if you are 4.9GHz, make it 4.8GHz. I dont think it would change anything but always worth testing the simple before going deep.

@Jurrunio No problems at all when using Manual voltage, it stays nice and consistent on the speed and voltage. Only happens with Adaptive. None of the workers have errors/stop working. Regardless of the application I use to benchmark/stress after about 15 seconds the speed/voltage dip and stays at the lower level.

@syn2112 Well here is hoping we can both get it sorted, fingers crossed. Worst case I will have to resort to having it on manual with the cpu downclocking iyself when idle as that was running nice and smoothly yesterday but if can have the voltage adjust itself as well then will be living the dream. @Jurrunio Good thought, just put it to 0 in BIOS and tested. Same issue occurs, the mystery continues.

Just to clarify, when you get into Windows do you have the same speed/voltage as you overclocked in BIOS? Does the same happen if you lower the overclock slightly and/or increase the voltage?

I have been attempting to understand "Adaptive Mode" for overclocking my 8700K on Asus z370-a motherboard (with the latest bios version). With the manual setting I have a stable overclock of 4.9GHz @ 1.32v, that bit was nice and easy. However the idea of the voltage going up and down as required rather than forever being at the higher value is a nice idea hence Adaptive mode attempts. I get into windows and as everything is loading up the clock speed is as it should be (4900MHz) then when idling the voltage drops from 1.344v down to 0.640v which is exactly what I want. When I then go to load cinebench it works fine clocking back up the speed and voltage, however if I do a stress test Realbench/Prime95 26.6 it ups the speed and voltage for about 15 seconds then it drops the multiplier down to 44/45 and voltage to 1.2v. Can anyone explain to me why this is happening and what I have done wrong? It isn't thermal throttling as temperature doesn't go above 75C (and when on manual @ 1.32 didn't go above 78C after 3 hours). My goal isn't to underclock my CPU so very puzzled right now as whatever I do doesn't seem to stop this happening. Please help me and end my pain/confusion! My settings in BIOS: Adaptive voltage - 1.33v Offset Voltage - Auto SVID Behaviour - Best Case SVID Support - Enabled LLC - Level 6 IA AC/DC Load Lines - 0.01 CPU Core Ratio - Sync All Cores Core Ratio Limit - 49

or care about response times? The classic TN = faster, IPS = better colours

Also quick thought as I noticed the pricing in my area, the Acer XB271HU is only £15 more. Might be worth a look in your area if you havent made the purchase already.