khazad

Oh ok they're Gelid Ultimate for the 0.5mm and Extreme for the 1mm, I found a local store that sells them and they're cheaper than buying online.

I wanna replace the thermal pads of my Gigabyte GTX 1080 Windforce and according to this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109831373.pdf it needs to be 16mm wide. Would the 12mm get to 16mm when I press down the heatsink? Or can I just use the old pads to fill in the gaps?

My GPU is a 1080 and one of the fans died so I need to remove the heatsink to replace the fan and by doing that the pads will probably rip apart since I have never opened my GPU.

I've seen the LTT video from over a year ago where Alex uses K5 Pro Viscous Thermal Paste and it's just $12 for a 20g container, but some people say that it leaks silicone oil after some time and others say that it doesn't leak anything and works perfect. Could the oil affect other components or it's just hard to clean afterwards? I noticed a bit of oil that was coming off from one of the backplate screws on my GPU after around 3 years of use and I've read that this is normal and it's from the thermal pads, I don't know if the oil from the putty is the same thing. There's also the T-Global TG-PP10 which everyone says it's the best but the brand doesn't make this anymore but someone is selling it on ebay at least, there's also the new one TG-A7000-55CC but it cost $90.

Yeah I'm referring to the fans. The GPU uses a PWM splitter and the 3 fans connects to it, but probably the faulty one is the one that has the speed feedback like you said.

This is my pc, and the fan to the right of the 1080 is almost dead, I was playing Planetside 2 with the fan speed at 100% in MSI Afterburner and after a while I started hearing some rattling inside my pc, I checked the GPU and noticed that the fan was wobbling and spinning a bit slower than the other two, so I exit the game and restarted my pc and in the process of restarting I noticed that the fan speed wouldn't kill itself which normally happens when Windows closes MSI Afterburner, instead it would just keep going between 70 and 100% until windows boots up again and then it would try to go to 100%, so the next thing that I did was to turn off my pc and turn it back on again after a few seconds and noticed that the fan would ramp back up to 100% after a few seconds when Windows already booted up, probably because MSI Afterburner opens up a few seconds later. What's weird is that whenever I close MSI Afterburner it would just go back to normal speeds and stay around 850rpm with the GPU temp at 50c and the hotspot at 60c but when I open MSI Afterburner it'll stay at 63%, it's probably because of the fan curve but this never happened before, whenever I stop playing I would put the fan speed in auto and it would put it at "quiet" levels but now it wants to stay in 60% or 70% depending on the hotspot. I always try to keep everything cool in my pc at least below 80c, at idle the temps are around 50 and 55c and normally reaches 60c when the room temp is above 30c and that's most of the days now since I'm in the summer and I always use an undervolt profile when I turn on my pc, I don't know if the sensors went bad or its just the two fans that tries to have more airflow now to keep up with the temps since one fan is not working properly. Also I noticed a few weeks ago that whenever I put the fans at 100% it would take like 5 seconds to catch the fan speed.

Budget (including currency): $300, maybe $400 Country: Paraguay, but if i can't find anything locally i can import it from Amazon or eBay. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Encore and Cool Edit Pro for editing and mixing music and Sony Vegas Pro 13 for video editing, maybe Davinci Resolve if he's willing to learn the basics of the program. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): He lives in Brazil and was using a 10 year old pc until it died, it was an i7 860, 6gb of ram (one of 4gb and the other of 2gb) and a HD 5850, we tried to troubleshoot via video call but it was almost impossible lol, i sent him another stick of 4gb of ram which is the same as the 4gb that he has, i told him to swap the 2gb for the new one but nothing happened so he sent it to a technician and the guy told him that the only thing that seems to be working are the ram sticks. So he asked me if i can look up for new or used parts here since it's a bit cheaper here but right now everything is way overpriced, so i started looking on ebay for a 2500k and a Sandy Bridge motherboard since he can still use the ram sticks. But i don't know how reliable that would be, so i started looking for the newest parts and this is what i came up with https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sLYGLs I don't know if i can go cheaper with a Haswell CPU and maybe add a GTX 750 Ti or 780 from ebay. For the case i can find some cheap dell optiplex cases or similar for around $15 on fb marketplace.

Yeah i plan to use a debloater. It isn't a socketed cpu :(, i didn't remove the heatsink but i can see that the cpu has a red glue.

Oh nice, i'll keep that in mind next time, thanks.

Now i used the Media Creation Tool instead of rufus and it works fine.

It's a Dell Latitude E6220, it has a i5-2540M and 6gb ram and it has an SSD, I installed the x86 version and it was working fine but i didn't know it was x86 until i checked the windows update, I let it run the updates and rebooted, then selected to boot from the USB and made sure to use the correct flash drive with the x64 iso and this happens.

I formatted an old laptop that had windows 7 and installed windows 10 x86 instead of x64, now i got the correct version in a flash driver but when i boot from the USB it shows like this, i press any button and it restarts. I've downloaded the iso from rufus, could have it loaded wrong?

Turns out that the GPU still works fine, so yeah the guy wanted to steal it lol, and the problem was the ram and maybe too much dust and something got overheated.

I've found a 1030 for about $80, is it better than a 750 Ti? The only 750 Ti that i could find is at $115, he mainly works with music with an old software called Encore and Cool Edit Pro and he also does some very light video editing.

It's for my uncle, he lives in Brazil and he told me that his computer didn't turn on so he video called me to show me what was happening, he pressed the power button and the fans started spinning for a second and then turned off again and made a beep sound, i told him that it could be the ram and he told me that he'll call a guy to check on it, the guy told him that it's the GPU that's dead and sent him two pictures from the back side which it was impossible to know if it was dead or not, and he told him that he was gonna change it for one that he was using which is a Radeon X1950 from 2006 lol so i thought that this guy might want to nick my uncle's GPU. I looked up the prices on the local marketplace and everything is way overpriced, a normal 1050 is at $215, and he told me that that is was too much for him.

That worked, thanks!

The HDD was from my dad's old laptop and when it stopped working a technician just removed the drive and put it in a sata to usb adapter, and now i wanna use the HDD as a normal storage drive but it has the 3 partitions and i can't just delete any program or windows files. I don't know if by just right clicking and selecting format on the main drive would delete the other 2 drives. Also i found that i can use dban, already burned it in a flash drive since i've never used it i don't know if it'll be safer to unplug my personal SSD and HDD from my pc.

Both sounds the same when playing in mono Wouldn't that leave moisture inside the driver if i blow it through the back? I could also try with a bellow only problem is that it's dirty with ash. Yeah i thought that i wasn't receiving any signal as a microphone because of the high impedance but i didn't know that it could kill it.

It's fucked because i pushed the membrane or because it didn't sound right after trying to use it as a mic? Lol. At least i learned something new.

So i have a DT 770 80 ohm and a Magni 3 amp, i tried to use it as a mic to see if it can reproduce sound since the headphone membrane is basically like a microphone. What i did was plugging the Amp cable on the "mic in" jack of my motherboard (Asus TUF Gaming B550-Plus) and turning up the knob a bit to see if it could catch any sound, it didn't do anything so i tried plugging my headphone directly to the mic in port and tried tapping it slightly and also snapping my fingers close to it but that also didn't do anything, so i just put everything how it was before, that is the RCA cable of the Amp in the "Line Out" port of the motherboard and the headphone cable in the headphone jack of the Amp and now the audio sounds like when you have water in your ear, i tried connecting the headphone directly to the motherboard and it sounds the same. I tried troubleshooting my motherboard and the amp with a cheap brandless headphone and with a 2.1 speaker and both sounds normal, i also tried reinstalling the audio drivers but it doesn't do anything. I tried the DT 770 on my phone with and without the amp and it sounds way more quiet but it still sounds like the audio is coming from a tube. And now i think i screwed it up even more by tapping directly into the membrane to see if I could move the magnet but the only thing that i achieved was pushing the membrane down.

I mainly want one that has good cooling because I live in a hot environment, I was thinking on the Gigabyte Aorus Pro or the Asus TUF Gaming, or is there any other cheaper alternatives? I'll be using a 5600x.

Check NewMax spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B27_j9NDPU3cNlj2HKcrfpJKHkOf-Oi1DbuuQva2gT4/edit#gid=0

I'm using a LG 27GL83A monitor and I saw this video explaining how to set up everything It basically says to turn Vsync and Gsync on in the nvidia control panel and in the game turn Vsync off and cap the fps to 144 or less. I don't know if this is still relatable since the video is a year old.

Just unplug it if you won't use your pc for days.

I don't know too much about those settings, so that only works when i'm using 3d applications or it's also active when my pc is on idle? would that still work if i open chrome or photoshop or any other program that use hardware acceleration? Also do i really need that option when i'm playing old games?