Yannik

If size is not an issue the Sigma ART is what I would get. Good performance for a very fair price. If size is more important but you want a shallow dof the Sony Distagon it is. If you need a really small and compact walk around lens and shallow dof is not as important then get the Samyang. 
 
Thats basically how I would go about it. Think about how you will use it and then it will be a lot easier to decide. 

IMO the most important part is learning how to take pictures.

”Things hipsters always add” lol. Its bokeh and it is natural. A fast lens will make them. 

Those are bokeh balls and they aren't added, its the result of using a wide aperture on your lens, that's how it makes lights look like. The image in question is indeed quite hipstery, but those are nice when taking nighttime portraits, they give a better sense of background separation. 

look out for power cords on the ground I always trip over them 

Making sure amateurs don’t mimic risky stuff is always hard. I do a lot of rock climbing both indoors and outdoors as well as working as a trainer (not an educated instructor yet so I’m not allowed to teach out how to use saftey stuff and so on). But I often see inexperienced people trying to copy what more experienced climbers do, or worse, just expect they can learn how to belay on the fly. That does not work as it is a lot of risk taking involved and mostly the evaluation of risks. For example, I know if you are climbing on ”lead” indoors you basically should never take a fall before the third bolt (because this may very well result in a ground fall). An amateur would not think of this, like at all. And I’ve seen it for myself where you had to step in and tell them how to do it properly. 
 
So my point is, people will always try and replicate things without knowing and it is very hard to prevent it. Even if you provide info, they often ignore it. You as a ”pro” or what you want to call it should not have to take responsbility of an amateur that haven’t evaluated the risks properly. 
 
Now enough of that. Here is an image of mine. And the one on the car above, I liked the edit but I think I would have prefferd a slightly wider focal length and a bit more motion showed in the image. 
 
 

Taken out while hanging passenger side window going 130kph, so bare with me lol
Tried using rule of thirds to frame the shot to the wheels and road. Also tired getting face in the mirror, but no bweno
 
APSC
F1.4 50mm

500px? Instagram? 

Some photos I took at my recent zoo trip with my art class. Sorry if quality isnt that great, uploading them in a whack way, so they may have gotten compressed.
 

 

I really like the eyes and the story (as well as the colours) in the first one! 10/10
I think the secound one would be better with eye contact, or some highlights in the eyes. 7,5/10

My picture shows the iconic "Fernsehturm" in Stuttgart. My goal was it to bring movement (with the train beeing blurry) in this static composition.

I like photos 1, 2 and 4.  3 feels like the horizon is not level though it could just be the slope of the land. 2, I feel needs to be wider.  But good photos.
The snake photo, feels that the leaves in the foreground are given too much prominence.
The gorilla photo... the composition looks nice but I don't think B&W works or your B&W conversion is not enough.
 
The biggest problem I see here is the vertical composition or crop that contrasts with the lateral movement you are capturing.

My new keyboard
 

For me it's a dream come true  - Thanks for your opinion!
 
I'm totally with you! Never cheap out on a backpack. I don't regret spending the money on my Everyday Messenger! - I've looked up the Incase Website, and they have some really nice backpacks! Thanks for the recommendation! The only problem is that their camera backpacks are "classic" camera backpacks. There you can't really put anything else into them besides cameras. But thanks tho! Appreciated!

First off, awesome place to go! I'll save some money and fly myself to NZ eventually. *jealous*
 
As for the packs, number 1 looks like the most though out pack, I don't like 2, and 3 is really nice looking. I'd get whatever one you like best. 

From personal experience and years of schooling - don't cheap out on a backpack. Honestly, I don't know much about photography specific backpacks, but the Everyday backpack seems pretty solid, along with the others. I would personally recommend the Incase Icon, comfortable and durable, has lots of room, and although it is not a camera specific backpack, it will be able to hold hour gear with ease.

I agree with your philosophy, I would also look at the lowepro protactic series and thinktank photo offerings, maybe f-stop. 
 
I have the protactic 450AW and I'm pretty pleased with what you can carry in it and the quality of the pack in general. It also has a molle system on the outside which is pretty versatile for various attachments. 

Thanks for the recommendation @cc143! I'll loook them up, appreciated!

It's so satisfying printing photos yourself, and even more when you're being paid for them.
 

 

 
And the prints coming out of the printer.

I just needed to go back to some basics and do simple compositions, hence the black background.
 
I am using an Epson P800, as one of the printers we have in the studio.  If you need one, look at the P600 which is cheaper or something from Canon.  But the P800 or Canon ProGraf 1000 have larger ink tanks and can be cheaper on the cost per ML of ink.

OK for screw on filters, I normally recommend getting just solid NDs and Polarizers.  If you have lenses with a wide range of different sizes, then my suggestion is to get multiple filters that cover a range of sizes.  For example, say you have lenses with filter sizes that go from 77, 67, 62, 55, 52.  Get one set to cover the 77-62 size range and one set to cover the 55-52 size range.  You don't need to buy individual filters for each lens, just one or two sizes that cover multiple ranges and use step up rings.
 
For ND gradient filters, I recommend getting slot in filters.  For slot in filters, just get one size and use a combination of step up rings and different size filter holder adapter rings.
 
Since filters are made of glass or plastic/resin or even transparent ceramic, they aren't stretchable.  They're not made of rubber.

I recommend the 8K Red Weapon.

Upscaling to 4k from 1080p is most likely going to hurt the quality as it has to calculate a lot more pixels. Personally i think upscaling 1440p is the best option as YouTube will automatically encode the video using the vp9 codec instead of the standard h264. |
 
Also the type of upscale method is important as some will soften the image in the process whereas others will retain the sharpness
 
What software are you going to use to upscale?